Gardenias are some of the most beloved plants in Australian gardens. With their glossy green leaves and creamy white flowers, they bring elegance and fragrance to any outdoor space. These plants, renowned for their stunning appearance and sweet scent, are a favourite among gardeners looking to create a tranquil, inviting atmosphere. But to truly make your gardenias shine, pairing them with the right plants is essential. Complementary plants not only enhance the beauty of your garden but also help support the growth and health of your gardenias. Let’s explore how you can create a thriving garden by choosing plants that work well with gardenias.

Understanding Gardenias

Gardenias thrive in specific conditions. Knowing their needs ensures they grow healthy and produce abundant flowers. Here are the key things to remember:

  • Light: Gardenias prefer partial shade or filtered sunlight. Too much direct sun can scorch their leaves, while deep shade reduces flowering. The balance of light is critical to maintaining their lush green leaves and profuse blooms.
  • Soil: They need well-drained soil with an acidic pH. Adding organic matter, like compost or peat, helps keep the soil rich and moist. Soil preparation is crucial to avoid root rot and other soil-related issues.
  • Water: Regular watering is crucial, especially during dry spells. However, avoid waterlogging, which can harm the roots. A consistent watering schedule helps gardenias thrive and produce their iconic blooms.
  • Feeding: Gardenias love heavy feeding and it is needed to see success in flowering.

With these basics covered, you can now think about which plants to pair with gardenias to enhance their beauty and support their growth. Thoughtful pairing creates a garden that looks cohesive and thrives as a whole.

Why Pair Gardenias with Other Plants?

Companion planting improves the appearance of your garden while benefiting the plants. Complementary plants:

  • Add variety in colour, texture, and height.
  • Create microclimates to improve growth.
  • Help deter pests and diseases.
  • Enhance the overall aesthetic by creating a cohesive and visually appealing garden design.

When choosing plants, ensure they share gardenias’ need for acidic soil and similar light conditions. Here are some great options to consider.

Top Companion Plants for Gardenias

AcidLoving Shrubs

Azaleas and Rhododendrons

These plants thrive in acidic soil, just like gardenias. Azaleas bring a burst of colour to the garden, with blooms in pink, red, or orange. Rhododendrons offer larger flowers and pair well with gardenias’ elegant white blooms. Their overlapping bloom periods create a stunning visual display in your garden.

Camellias

Camellias bloom in autumn and winter, extending your garden’s flowering season. Their soft pink or red flowers contrast beautifully with gardenias’ white blooms. These evergreen shrubs provide year-round interest and serve as a lush backdrop for gardenias.

Ground Covers

Ferns

Ferns’ lush green fronds soften the garden’s look and provide a textural contrast to gardenias’ glossy leaves. Ferns also grow well in shaded areas, making them ideal companions. They help cover bare soil, adding a natural touch to the garden.

Heuchera (Coral Bells)

Heuchera adds a pop of colour with its striking foliage. Choose varieties with burgundy or limegreen leaves to create a stunning contrast. Heuchera thrives in partial shade, making it a perfect ground cover beneath taller plants like gardenias.

ShadeTolerant Perennials

Dichondra repens

A creeping, matforming ground cover with small, kidneyshaped green foliage. It’s perfect as a lawn substitute under trees or low-traffic areas and looks great between paving stones. Dichondra repens thrives in partial shade and is heat and drought-tolerant.

Azalea ‘Alba Magnifica’

This superior variety of Azalea is more sun-tolerant and produces stunning white flowers. It thrives in rich, composted or sandy soil and can be planted in full shade to full sun, adding versatility to your garden design.

Ornamental Grasses

Lomandra

Lomandra is a hardy, clumping grass that thrives in various conditions, including full sun to partial shade. With its fine, arching green foliage and tolerance for drought, it is a versatile addition to garden beds, adding texture and structure while complementing the elegance of gardenias.

Festuca glauca

Festuca glauca, or blue fescue, is a compact, ornamental grass with striking bluegrey foliage. Its lowgrowing habit makes it perfect for edging or as a contrasting ground cover in garden beds. Festuca thrives in welldrained soil and adds a touch of cool-toned elegance to the warm, creamy tones of gardenia blooms.

Designing a Gardenia Bed

Creating a garden bed around your gardenias involves thoughtful planning. Follow these tips to design a space that highlights their beauty:

Layering Techniques

  • Place gardenias at the centre or as focal points.
  • Use taller shrubs, like camellias, as a backdrop.
  • Add ferns or heucheras as ground covers around the base. This layering creates depth and makes the garden look full and balanced.

Colour Themes

For a serene garden, pair white gardenia blooms with soft greens and whites from ferns and Dichondra repens. This combination creates a calming, elegant space.

For contrast, use bright colours like Azalea ‘Alba Magnifica’. Bold colour pairings can make your garden stand out and feel vibrant.

Seasonal Interest

Combine plants that bloom in different seasons to ensure your garden looks vibrant year round. For instance, gardenias bloom in spring and summer, while camellias and Azaleas flower in cooler months. This ensures your garden never lacks colour or interest.

Maintenance Tips for Mixed Plantings

Once your gardenia bed is planted, regular care keeps it thriving. Here’s how to maintain your garden:

  • Watering: Water deeply to encourage strong roots. Mulch helps retain moisture and reduce weeds. Adjust watering frequency based on the season and weather conditions.
  • Feeding: Use a fertiliser designed for acid-loving plants to keep soil pH suitable for gardenias and their companions. Feed during the growing season to support healthy blooms and foliage.
  • Pruning: Trim gardenias after flowering to shape the plant and remove spent blooms. Prune companion plants as needed to maintain balance. Regular pruning keeps your garden looking tidy and encourages new growth.
  • Pest Control: Watch for pests like aphids or scale insects. Neem oil or insecticidal soap can help protect your plants. Keeping an eye on pests early prevents them from spreading to other plants.

Wrapping Up

Gardenias are stunning plants that become even more striking when paired with complementary companions. By choosing acidloving shrubs, ground covers, perennials, and ornamental grasses, you can create a garden that’s beautiful and harmonious. Thoughtful design and regular care ensure your gardenia bed thrives for years to come. Companion planting also encourages biodiversity, which benefits all plants in the garden.

Visit Diaco’s Garden Nursery for expert advice and quality plants to bring your vision to life. Our knowledgeable team can help you find the perfect companions for your gardenias. Let us help you create a garden that’s uniquely yours. Happy gardening!

Gardenias are cherished for their fragrant white flowers and glossy green leaves, making them a favourite in Australian gardens. However, these stunning plants can be tricky to grow. If your gardenia isn’t thriving, don’t worry—most problems can be solved with a bit of knowledge and care. Let’s dive into the top gardenia gardening issues and how to tackle them.

Yellow Leaves

Yellow leaves are a common complaint, especially in spring. This can indicate a nutrient deficiency, improper watering, or even nematode damage in sandy soils.

The Solution: 

  • Fertilise Appropriately: Yellow leaves are often a sign that your gardenia needs an allpurpose fertiliser. Apply fertiliser in spring as the weather warms up. Look for a product designed for acid-loving plants.
  • Water Consistently: Ensure your plant gets a deep watering, particularly during dry spells. However, avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
  • Check for Nematodes: If yellow leaves persist despite fertilising, examine the roots for small, cream-coloured lumps. These indicate nematode infestation. Planting marigolds around the gardenia can help deter nematodes naturally.

Bud Drop or Failure to Bloom

Your gardenia produces buds, but they either fail to open or turn brown and drop. This is often seen during cooler months or as a result of pest damage.

The Solution: 

  • Temperature Control: Gardenias are sensitive to temperature changes. Protect them from cold drafts and sudden heat to keep them stress free.
  • Monitor Pests: Weevils and leafhoppers can damage buds, causing them to drop. Regularly inspect your plant and treat pests with neem oil or an insecticidal soap.
  • Be Patient: Gardenias often hold onto buds through winter and may drop them in spring. This is normal and doesn’t necessarily indicate a problem.

Pests: Scale, Mealybugs, and Others

Scale and mealybugs are common gardenia pests. Scale insects cluster on stems and leaf undersides, while mealybugs hide in leaf nodes, weakening the plant and causing stress.

The Solution: 

  • Treat with PestOil: Use horticultural oil like Pest-Oil to manage scale and mealybugs. Follow up with additional applications as needed.
  • Address Plant Stress: Pests often appear when the plant is stressed. Ensure your gardenia is well-watered, fertilised, and growing in suitable conditions.
  • Encourage Beneficial Insects: Ladybirds and parasitic wasps are natural predators of scale and mealybugs. Plant companion species to attract these helpful insects.

Powdery Mildew and Fungal Issues

Powdery mildew and other fungal diseases appear as white or grey patches on leaves. These thrive in humid conditions with poor air circulation.

The Solution: 

  • Improve Airflow: Prune the plant to increase air circulation around the leaves. Avoid overcrowding gardenias with other plants.
  • Water Smartly: Water the base of the plant rather than the foliage to prevent moisture buildup on leaves.
  • Apply Fungicide: If the infection is severe, treat it with a suitable fungicide. Organic options are safer for the environment.

Poor Growth or Leggy Appearance

Your gardenia looks sparse and leggy instead of full and bushy. This often results from a lack of pruning or inadequate feeding.

The Solution: 

  • Prune Regularly: Trim the plant after flowering to encourage compact, bushy growth. Remove dead or weak branches to direct energy into healthy ones.
  • Feed Consistently: Use a slow-release fertiliser for acid-loving plants. Apply this every couple of months during the growing season.
  • Enrich the Soil: Add organic matter like compost or well rotted manure to improve soil structure and nutrients.

Wilting or Drooping Leaves

Wilting leaves can result from underwatering, overwatering, or transplant shock. This is a sign of stress that needs immediate attention.

The Solution: 

  • Check Soil Moisture: Gardenias need evenly moist soil. Water deeply but avoid waterlogging the roots.
  • Transplant with Care: If moving your gardenia, ensure it’s well hydrated before and after the move. Transplant during mild weather to minimise shock.
  • Mulch the Base: Apply a layer of organic mulch to regulate soil moisture and temperature.

Browning or Burned Leaf Tips

Brown or crispy leaf tips often signal overfertilising, poor water quality, or exposure to harsh sunlight.

The Solution: 

  • Flush the Soil: Overfertilising can leave salt deposits in the soil. Water thoroughly to flush out excess salts.
  • Use Clean Water: If your tap water is high in chlorine or fluoride, use rainwater or distilled water instead.
  • Provide Shade: Protect gardenias from the intense afternoon sun by placing them in a spot with dappled light.

Soil and pH Issues

Gardenias struggle in alkaline soils. Their ideal pH range is 5.06.0, and anything outside this can limit nutrient absorption.

The Solution: 

  • Test and Adjust Soil pH: Use a soil testing kit to determine pH. If it’s too high, amend the soil with sulphur or peat moss.
  • Maintain Acidity: Apply mulch made of pine needles or bark to help keep the soil acidic.
  • Fertilise Wisely: Use fertilisers formulated for acid-loving plants to provide the nutrients gardenias need.

Wrapping Up

Growing gardenias may feel daunting, but with the right approach, these beautiful plants can thrive in your garden. From tackling yellow leaves to managing pests and adjusting soil pH, the key is understanding your gardenia’s needs.

At Diaco’s Garden Nursery, we’re here to help. Visit us for high-quality gardenia plants, expert advice, and everything you need to grow healthy and happy plants. If you have questions, feel free to stop by or leave a comment below. Let’s make your gardenia journey a success!

Whether you’re new to gardening or have some experience, shrubs are a fantastic addition to any garden. They add structure, colour, and life all year round. Caring for shrubs might seem a bit daunting at first, but with a little guidance, you’ll find it’s both enjoyable and rewarding. Let’s dive into the art of shrub maintenance together!

Understanding Shrubs

Shrubs are woody plants that are smaller than trees and have multiple stems growing from the base. Unlike herbaceous plants, which die back to the ground each year, shrubs keep their structure throughout the seasons. They’re like the middle child of the plant world—not as tall as trees but sturdier than flowers.

In your garden, shrubs play a vital role. They can create beautiful backdrops for your flower beds, offer privacy from neighbours, and even attract birds and butterflies. Some shrubs have lovely flowers, while others boast colourful leaves or berries. They’re the reliable friends in your garden that keep things interesting all year long.

There’s a shrub for every spot in your garden. Evergreen shrubs keep their leaves all year, providing constant colour. Deciduous shrubs lose their leaves in winter but often have stunning flowers in spring or brilliant foliage in autumn. You can choose flowering shrubs like roses, foliage shrubs like boxwood, or fruit-bearing ones like currants.

Essential Tools for Shrub Maintenance

Before you start, it’s important to have the right tools. You’ll need pruners (also known as secateurs) for cutting small branches and stems, loppers with long handles for thicker branches, a pruning saw for even larger branches, and hedge shears for shaping and trimming hedges. You don’t have to spend a fortune; look for good-quality tools that fit your budget.

Gardening is fun, but safety matters too. Always wear gloves to protect your hands, and consider eye protection when cutting branches. Proper footwear can prevent slips and trips. Keep your tools clean and sharp—they’ll work better and last longer.

The Basics of Pruning

Pruning helps your shrubs stay healthy and look their best. It encourages new growth, more flowers, and can prevent diseases. Think of it like giving your shrub a haircut—it keeps it neat and promotes good health.

Different shrubs grow in different ways. Some bloom on new growth, while others bloom on old wood. Knowing this helps you prune correctly. For example, if you prune a shrub that blooms on old wood at the wrong time, you might cut off next year’s flowers!

The best time to prune depends on the type of shrub. Spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned right after they finish blooming. Summer-flowering shrubs are best pruned in late winter or early spring. Evergreen shrubs can handle light pruning almost any time, but late spring is usually best.

Pruning Techniques

Here’s a simple step-by-step guide to pruning your shrubs:

First, assess the shrub’s overall health. Look for dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Remove these problem branches first to prevent the spread of disease and to promote healthy growth.

Next, thin out any overcrowded areas to improve air circulation within the shrub. This helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases and allows light to reach all parts of the plant.

Finally, shape the shrub by trimming back branches to achieve a neat appearance, following the shrub’s natural form.

Be careful not to over-prune, as removing too much can stress the plant. Avoid topping, which is cutting off the top of the shrub; this can lead to weak growth. Instead, focus on thinning and shaping.

Remember to use sharp tools for clean cuts and disinfect your tools between plants to prevent spreading diseases. Step back often to check your work and ensure you’re achieving the desired shape.

Shaping Your Shrubs

Shaping shrubs adds beauty to your garden. You can keep them looking natural or trim them into formal shapes. It’s like sculpting with plants! Techniques vary depending on the shape you want to achieve.

For spherical or conical shapes, use hedge shears to trim evenly all around the shrub. When creating hedges, keep the top narrower than the base to let light reach the lower branches. For the adventurous gardener, topiary involves creating fun shapes like animals or spirals, though this takes practice.

Imagine a row of neatly trimmed boxwood balls lining a pathway or a whimsical topiary in the shape of a bird. These touches make your garden unique and delightful.

Seasonal Care for Shrubs

In spring, prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade. Apply fertiliser to encourage growth and add mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds. In summer, keep the soil moist, especially during dry spells, and check for insects or diseases. Light pruning can tidy up the shrubs as needed.

During autumn, trim summer-flowering shrubs and remove fallen leaves to prevent diseases. Consider windbreaks for exposed shrubs to protect them from harsh weather. In winter, use mulch or covers for sensitive shrubs to provide frost protection. Hold off on pruning during winter, as it can stimulate growth that’s vulnerable to frost.

Dealing with Common Shrub Issues

Common pests include aphids, caterpillars, and mites. You can often remove them by hand or use natural remedies like soapy water sprays. Fungal diseases can be a problem; ensure good air circulation and avoid wetting leaves when watering. If disease occurs, remove affected parts and dispose of them properly.

Environmental stress factors like too much sun, wind, or poor soil can stress shrubs. Choose the right shrub for your conditions and adjust care practices as needed.

Fertilising and Soil Care

Shrubs need nutrients to thrive. Signs of nutrient deficiency include yellowing leaves or poor growth. You can nourish your shrubs with organic options like compost or well-rotted manure, or synthetic options like balanced slow-release fertilisers. Always follow the instructions on the package.

Good soil makes for happy shrubs. Add compost to improve soil structure and check the pH balance. Most shrubs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.

Watering Techniques

Proper watering is essential. Water deeply to encourage roots to grow down, and let the topsoil dry out between waterings. Early morning is the best time to water to reduce evaporation.

Mulch helps keep the soil moist and cool. Organic mulches like bark chips also add nutrients as they break down.

To conserve water, consider using rain barrels to collect rainwater for watering, choose drought-tolerant shrubs, and use drip irrigation to deliver water directly to the roots.

Selecting the Right Shrubs for Your Garden

Assess your garden’s conditions, considering sunlight exposure, soil type, and space. Think about how big the shrub will get and whether it suits the spot you have in mind.

For beginners, consider shrubs like lavender, which loves sun and well-drained soil; holly, an evergreen with bright berries; or hydrangea, which offers beautiful blooms and fairly easy care.

Planting a mix of shrubs encourages biodiversity. Native shrubs are great for supporting local ecosystems and attracting wildlife like birds and butterflies.

Wrapping Up

Caring for shrubs is a blend of art and science. With the right techniques, you can keep your shrubs healthy and your garden looking splendid. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn as you go. Gardening is a journey, and every season brings new lessons.

If you’re keen on making your garden look fantastic all year round, you’ve come to the right place. We’re excited to share with you how shrubs can transform your outdoor space into a beautiful and welcoming haven. Shrubs are amazing plants that can add shape, colour, and even create different areas in your garden. Let’s explore how you can use them to make your garden truly special.

Why Shrubs Are Important

Shrubs are like the unsung heroes of the garden world. They aren’t as tall as trees or as small as flowers, fitting perfectly into many garden designs. With their woody stems and a variety of shapes and sizes, shrubs can play many roles in your garden.

First, they provide structure. This means they help define the layout of your garden, giving it a clear shape and form. Second, many shrubs offer beauty throughout the year. They might bloom in spring, have colourful leaves in autumn, or display bright berries in winter. Lastly, shrubs can help local wildlife. Birds and butterflies often use shrubs for food and shelter, so you’re also supporting nature by planting them.

Creating Different Areas with Shrubs

Have you ever thought about dividing your garden into different “rooms”? This idea involves creating separate spaces for relaxing, playing, or even growing vegetables. Shrubs are excellent for this because they can act like natural walls without making your garden feel closed off.

For example, shrubs like boxwood or privet can be trimmed into neat hedges that mark the boundaries of an area. Flowering shrubs like camellias add colour while also separating spaces. When planting shrubs for this purpose, remember to give them enough room to grow. Plant them at the right distance apart so they don’t crowd each other. Regular trimming will keep them healthy and looking their best.

Tall shrubs like laurels or photinias can provide privacy, making your garden feel like a peaceful retreat. They can block out sights and sounds from neighbouring areas, giving you a cosy spot to relax.

Designing Borders with Shrubs

Borders are the edges of your garden beds, and shrubs can make them stand out. One way to create interesting borders is by layering plants of different heights. Think of it like arranging people for a group photo: taller ones at the back, medium in the middle, and shorter at the front.

At the back, you might plant tall shrubs like lilacs or forsythias. In the middle, medium-sized shrubs such as hydrangeas work well. At the front, low-growing shrubs like lavender or heathers add a finishing touch. This layering creates depth and makes your garden look fuller and more interesting.

Mixing different colours and textures adds even more appeal. Choose shrubs with various leaf colours—like golden, purple, or multi-coloured leaves—to create eye-catching contrasts. Combining plants with smooth leaves and those with feathery or rough leaves adds texture.

To keep your garden lively all year, select shrubs that shine in different seasons. In spring, azaleas and rhododendrons burst into bloom. Summer brings the vibrant flowers of buddleias and roses. Autumn showcases the fiery leaves of maples and burning bush shrubs. Even in winter, holly bushes with red berries or dogwoods with colourful branches can brighten up your garden.

Making Shrubs the Star of Your Garden

Some shrubs are so unique and beautiful that they can become the main attraction in your garden. For example, a Japanese maple has delicate leaves and stunning autumn colours. A magnolia offers large, fragrant flowers that can be a real showstopper. Place these special shrubs where they can be easily seen and enjoyed.

Shrubs can also highlight other features in your garden. Climbing roses grown over an archway create a romantic entrance. Lavender planted along a path adds colour and a lovely scent, guiding visitors through your garden.

Adding Functionality with Shrubs

Shrubs do more than just look good—they can also make your garden more practical. Some shrubs help the environment by preventing soil erosion. For instance, willows have strong roots that hold the soil together, which is especially useful on slopes.

Dense shrubs can act as windbreaks, reducing the impact of strong winds. This protects other plants and makes your garden more comfortable. By planting shrubs that provide food and shelter, like elderberries and rowans, you can attract birds and butterflies, turning your garden into a lively ecosystem.

If you prefer a garden that’s easy to care for, choose hardy, low-maintenance shrubs. Drought-tolerant plants like grevilleas and callistemons (bottlebrushes) don’t need much watering and are perfect for dry conditions. Shrubs like lilly pilly (Syzygium species) and westringia (native rosemary) are tough and can handle different weather conditions, making them ideal choices for an easy-care garden. These native shrubs not only require minimal maintenance but also support local wildlife and add a unique Australian touch to your garden.

Tips for Choosing and Planting Shrubs

Before you head out to pick your shrubs, take a good look at your garden. Check the type of soil you have—is it sandy, clay, or somewhere in between? Notice how much sunlight different areas get. Some shrubs love full sun, while others prefer shade. Think about how much space you have and remember that shrubs will grow larger over time.

When planting shrubs, dig a hole that’s twice as wide as the plant’s pot and just as deep. Mixing some compost into the soil gives the shrub extra nutrients to help it grow. After planting, water the shrub well to help it settle in.

Taking care of your shrubs is important to keep them healthy and looking good. Prune them by cutting back any dead or overgrown branches. This encourages new growth and helps the shrub keep its shape. Feeding them with a slow-release fertiliser in the spring gives them a boost. Adding mulch around the base helps keep the soil moist and prevents weeds.

Inspiration and Ideas

If you’re looking for fragrant shrubs to enhance your garden, consider planting gardenias or mock orange (Murraya paniculata) near paths or seating areas where you can enjoy their lovely scent. For striking colours, grevilleas and bottlebrushes (Callistemon species) offer vibrant flowers that attract birds and make your garden burst with life. Evergreen shrubs like lilly pilly (Syzygium species) and westringia (native rosemary) stay green all year, providing constant colour and structure.

You can also have fun with themed gardens. A sensory garden might include aromatic shrubs like boronia and lavender, along with plants that have interesting textures such as banksias and hakeas. Or create a colour-themed garden, like an Australian native garden featuring plants like kangaroo paw, waratah, and waxflower for a stunning effect.

Don’t be afraid to get creative with your shrub choices. Mixing different types of shrubs can add depth and personality to your garden. Consider the local climate and soil conditions when selecting plants to ensure they will thrive in your area. Remember, the key is to choose shrubs that you love and that will bring you joy throughout the year.

Wrapping Up

Shrubs are truly wonderful plants that can make a big difference in your garden. They add structure, beauty, and can even help the environment. By choosing the right shrubs and placing them thoughtfully, you can enjoy a garden that’s beautiful in every season.

Remember, gardening is all about expressing yourself and enjoying the process. Don’t be afraid to try new things and see what works best for you. Whether you’re planting your first shrub or redesigning your whole garden, have fun with it!

Tomatoes and basil aren’t just delicious ingredients for your kitchen—they can also help you create a beautiful and productive garden. Whether you’re looking to make your outdoor space more attractive or find new ways to enjoy the flavours of your garden, these plants offer plenty of possibilities. In this blog, we’ll start by exploring how you can use tomatoes and basil to enhance your garden, then we’ll share some fun ways to preserve and cook with them.

Decorating Your Garden with Tomatoes & Basil

Tomatoes and basil aren’t just for eating—they can also add a lot of charm to your garden. With a bit of creativity, these plants can be both useful and beautiful.

Edible Landscaping

Instead of limiting these tasty plants to a separate veggie patch, why not make your entire garden both beautiful and productive by blending tomatoes and basil with your regular plants? This approach, known as edible landscaping, allows you to enjoy the benefits of fresh produce while enhancing the beauty of your outdoor space. Plus, there’s something truly satisfying about harvesting a ripe tomato or a handful of basil leaves from among your flowers and shrubs, turning your garden into a feast for both the eyes and the palate.

Tomatoes can be the stars of your garden, especially if you choose vibrant varieties like yellow pear or purple heirloom tomatoes. Their colourful fruits not only add a striking visual element but also complement other flowering plants. Tomatoes can be trained to climb a trellis or supported with decorative stakes, adding height and structure to your garden.

Basil is perfect for filling in spaces with its lush green foliage and aromatic scent. It pairs wonderfully with ornamental plants, adding texture and a delightful fragrance to your garden beds. Plus, basil is more than just a fragrant herb —it’s a natural pest repellent. Planting basil alongside tomatoes can help keep pests like aphids at bay, making it a powerful companion plant.

Creative Support Structures for Growing Tomatoes

Tomatoes are not only delicious but also versatile in how they can be grown, especially when you start thinking creatively about their support structures. Using different types of supports for your tomato plants not only helps them grow strong and healthy but also adds vertical and visual interest to your garden. Here are some fun and creative ideas to consider:

Traditional Stakes and Cages: The most common support structures for tomatoes are stakes and cages. Stakes are simple and effective, guiding your tomato plants upward and keeping them off the ground. Wooden or metal stakes can be painted or decorated to add a pop of colour to your garden. Tomato cages, whether round or square, are another classic choice, offering robust support that surrounds the plant and allows it to grow freely within.

Decorative Trellises: Why not combine function with style by using decorative trellises to support your tomatoes? Trellises can be made from a variety of materials, such as wood, metal, or even repurposed items like old ladders or fence panels. A beautifully designed trellis can turn your tomato plants into a living piece of art, drawing the eye upwards and adding structure to your garden. Trellises are particularly effective for indeterminate tomato varieties that continue to grow taller throughout the season.

A-Frame and Teepee Supports: A-Frame and teepee-style supports are not only practical but also visually striking. These structures provide a sturdy framework for your tomatoes to climb, creating a central focal point in your garden. A-Frame supports are especially great for small spaces, as they allow you to grow tomatoes vertically without taking up much ground space. Teepee supports, made from bamboo poles or wooden stakes tied together at the top, give your garden a rustic, natural look.

Tomato Arbours and Pergolas: If you’re looking to make a bold statement, tomato arbours or pergolas are a fantastic option. These larger structures create a shaded area in your garden while providing a strong support system for multiple tomato plants. As the tomatoes grow and spread across the arbour or pergola, they create a lush, green canopy overhead. This setup not only looks beautiful but also makes the most of your vertical space, allowing you to grow more plants in a smaller footprint.

Creating a Tomato Fence: Do you have a chain link fence in your garden or on your balcony? Turn it into a living wall of tomatoes! Plant tomatoes at the base of the fence and gently weave the stems through the gaps as they grow. Before you know it, your fence will be covered with green leaves and colourful tomatoes, transforming it into a vibrant part of your garden. This is a great way to hide an unattractive fence while growing something delicious at the same time.

Hanging Baskets: A Great Option for Tomatoes and Herbs

Hanging baskets aren’t just for flowers—they’re a brilliant way to grow both tomatoes and herbs like basil. If you don’t have much space in your garden or just want to try something different, hanging baskets are a great choice.

Cherry and grape tomato varieties, like Tommy Toes, Sweet Bite, and Cherry Roma, do really well in hanging baskets. The best part? You can move the baskets around to make sure your plants get enough sun or to protect them from strong winds. Basil and other trailing herbs like thyme and mint also thrive in hanging baskets. You can even plant tomatoes and basil together in the same basket for a mini garden that’s as beautiful as it is practical.

Creating an Aromatic Walkway

Another innovative way to incorporate basil into your garden is by creating an aromatic walkway. By lining a path with fragrant herbs such as basil, lavender, mint, and lemon balm, you can turn a simple walk through your garden into a sensory experience. Every time you pass by, the aromas of these herbs will fill the air, making your garden not just a visual treat but an aromatic one as well. Basil thrives in sunny areas with well-draining soil, making it an excellent choice for this purpose.

Creative Pot and Planter Choices for Basil and Other Herbs

Choosing the right containers for your basil and other herbs can make your garden look even better. Beyond being practical, the pots you choose can really add to your garden’s style.

Consider using corten steel planters, which have a cool, modern look and become even more interesting over time as they develop a rustic finish. These sturdy planters are perfect for basil and can give your garden a unique, industrial vibe.

If you want something a bit different, why not use vintage vases or distressed water pots instead of regular plant pots? These can turn your herb garden into a real showpiece. Grouping pots of the same material or colour, like terra-cotta, can also create a more unified and stylish look in your garden. This way, your basil and other herbs not only grow well but also look great doing it.

Cooking and Preserving Your Harvest

Once your garden is bursting with fresh tomatoes and basil, it’s time to enjoy them in the kitchen. By the end of the summer tomato growing season especially, it’s not uncommon to find yourself with a bountiful harvest and wonder what to do with all those ripe tomatoes. Luckily, there are lots of fun and tasty ways to use these plants, and with a few tips, you can keep enjoying them long after the growing season is over.

Tomato-Basil Jam

Have you ever tried tomato-basil jam? It’s a sweet and savoury spread that’s perfect for toast, cheese, or even as a glaze for meats. To make it, cook ripe tomatoes with sugar, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Add chopped basil towards the end of cooking. As it thickens, you’ll have a delicious jam that captures the flavours of summer in every bite.

Homemade Pesto

Basil is the main ingredient in pesto, a classic sauce that’s super easy to make. Traditional pesto combines basil, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese, and olive oil. You can even mix it up by adding sun-dried tomatoes for a tangy twist. Pesto is great on pasta, sandwiches, or even as a marinade for meats and vegetables.

Infused Oils & Vinegars

Infused oils and vinegars are a simple yet tasty way to enjoy the flavours of your garden. To make tomato and basil-infused oil, just combine dried tomatoes and fresh basil with olive oil in a jar and let it sit for a few weeks. The oil will be full of rich flavour, perfect for drizzling over salads or dipping bread. You can also create a basil vinegar by steeping fresh basil leaves in white wine or apple cider vinegar. This makes a delicious, herb-infused vinegar for salads and marinades.

Preserving Your Harvest: Drying & Freezing

Drying and freezing are both great ways to save basil and tomatoes for later use. To dry basil, hang small bunches of leaves upside down in a warm, dry place until they’re crispy. You can also chop basil, mix it with olive oil, and freeze it in ice cube trays. These frozen basil cubes are perfect for adding to sauces and soups.

Tomatoes can be frozen whole or sliced. This way, you can enjoy them in sauces or stews even in the middle of winter. Just blanch the tomatoes, remove the skins, and freeze them in bags.

Canning Tomatoes

Canning is another way to preserve your tomato harvest. Whether you’re making tomato sauce, passata, or canning whole tomatoes, this method lets you enjoy your garden’s bounty all year long. Cooking tomatoes with a bit of onion, garlic, and herbs creates a rich sauce that can be canned and stored for later.

Wrapping Up

Tomatoes and basil are more than just plants—they’re the key to discovering creative ways to make your garden both beautiful and useful. By integrating them thoughtfully, you can transform your outdoor space into a vibrant, productive haven while enjoying fresh, home-grown flavours all year round. So, why not try something new this season and see how tomatoes and basil can transform your garden and meals?

And remember, Diaco’s is always here to help. We’re passionate about plants and ready to support you in making your garden thrive!

There’s something really special about growing your own food. Watching a tiny seed turn into a plant full of tomatoes or basil, and then using what you’ve grown to make a delicious meal, is a great feeling. Tomatoes and basil are not only easy to grow but also super tasty in lots of dishes. In this blog, we’ll show you how to plant, care for, and cook with your very own tomatoes and basil. It’s all about enjoying the freshest flavours right from your garden to your table.

The Basics of Growing Tomatoes and Basil

Choosing the Right Varieties

Before you begin planting, it’s essential to choose the right varieties of tomatoes and basil that suit your taste preferences, climate, and space. For tomatoes, options abound, from sweet cherry tomatoes that burst with flavour to hearty heirlooms that are perfect for slicing. If you prefer making sauces, Roma tomatoes are an excellent choice due to their meaty texture. On the basil front, sweet basil, particularly the Genovese variety, is a classic pairing with tomatoes, while Thai basil offers a more exotic flavour for those who enjoy a bit of spice.

Starting from Seed vs. Seedlings

When it comes to starting your tomato and basil plants, you have two main options: growing from seed or purchasing seedlings. Starting from seed gives you complete control over the growing process and offers a wider variety of choices. It’s a bit more time-consuming but deeply rewarding. To start seeds indoors, you’ll need a good quality seed-starting mix, small pots or seed trays, and a sunny windowsill or grow lights. Sow the seeds about 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost in your area.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for a quicker start, purchasing seedlings from a nursery is a great option. Look for healthy, strong seedlings with vibrant green leaves and sturdy stems. Whether you start from seeds or seedlings, the key to success is giving your young plants the right care as they grow.

Preparing Your Garden or Containers

Tomatoes and basil thrive in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with plenty of sunlight. Before planting, prepare your garden bed by adding compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil. If you’re gardening in containers, choose pots that are at least 30 cm in diameter for tomatoes, as they need plenty of space to develop strong roots. Basil can be grown in slightly smaller pots, but ensure they have good drainage.

When selecting a location, remember that both tomatoes and basil need full sun, meaning at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. If space is limited, container gardening is a practical solution, allowing you to move the plants to catch the best sun.

Planting and Caring for Tomatoes and Basil

Planting Techniques

Once your garden or containers are ready, it’s time to plant. If you’re transplanting seedlings, carefully remove them from their pots, being mindful not to damage the roots. Plant tomatoes deep, burying part of the stem to encourage a stronger root system. Basil, however, should be planted at the same depth it was growing in its pot.

Tomatoes and basil are excellent companion plants, as they enhance each other’s growth and flavour. Plant them close together, but give each plant enough space to spread out—about 45-60cm between tomato plants and 30cm between basil plants.

Watering, Feeding, and Pruning

Proper watering is crucial for healthy plants. Tomatoes prefer deep, infrequent watering, which encourages the roots to grow deep into the soil. Water them at the base to keep the foliage dry, reducing the risk of disease. Basil needs consistent moisture but be careful not to overwater. The soil should be damp but not waterlogged.

Feeding your plants regularly will keep them vigorous. A balanced fertiliser works well for both tomatoes and basil, applied every 2-4 weeks. Tomatoes may benefit from a boost of calcium to prevent blossom end rot. 

Pruning is essential for tomatoes to encourage better fruit production. Remove the “suckers” that grow in the crotch between the stem and a branch to focus the plant’s energy on producing fruit. Basil, on the other hand, should be regularly harvested to prevent it from flowering, which can make the leaves taste bitter.

Dealing with Pests and Diseases

No garden is entirely free from pests and diseases, but with a little vigilance, you can keep them in check. Common tomato pests include aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies. These can be controlled with natural predators like ladybugs or by using organic insecticidal soap.

Basil may attract aphids or Japanese beetles, which can be managed similarly. Fungal diseases like blight or powdery mildew can affect tomatoes, so ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Basil is generally hardy but can suffer from downy mildew in humid conditions. In both cases, organic fungicides can help if the issue persists.

Harvesting Your Homegrown Tomatoes and Basil

When and How to Harvest Tomatoes

Harvesting tomatoes at the right time ensures the best flavour. For most varieties, the fruit is ready when it’s fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch. Cherry tomatoes are best picked just before they’re fully ripe, as they’ll continue to ripen off the vine. Larger varieties should be picked when they have a uniform colour and a slight give when gently squeezed.

To harvest, use garden scissors or gently twist the fruit from the vine to avoid damaging the plant. Store your tomatoes at room temperature—never in the fridge, as cold temperatures can dull their flavour.

Harvesting and Storing Basil

Basil should be harvested regularly to keep the plant bushy and productive. The best time to harvest is in the morning when the oils in the leaves are most concentrated, but after the dew has dried. Snip off the top leaves, just above a pair of leaves, to encourage the plant to produce more.

If you find yourself with more than enough basil, there are several ways to store it. You can freeze the leaves, either whole or as a pesto, or dry them by hanging small bunches in a cool, dark place.

From Garden to Kitchen: Cooking with Tomatoes and Basil

Simple and Delicious Recipes

Now that you’ve successfully grown and harvested your tomatoes and basil, it’s time to enjoy them in the kitchen. Here are some easy, flavourful recipes that highlight the fresh, homegrown goodness of these ingredients:

Fresh Tomato and Basil Salad

This simple salad is a celebration of fresh flavours. Slice your ripe tomatoes and arrange them on a plate. Top with torn basil leaves, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a splash of balsamic vinegar, and a sprinkle of sea salt. For an added treat, include slices of fresh mozzarella.

Classic Tomato Basil Pasta Sauce

Start by sautéing garlic in olive oil until fragrant. Add chopped tomatoes and let them simmer until they break down into a sauce. Stir in a handful of chopped basil, season with salt and pepper, and serve over your favourite pasta. This sauce can be made in large batches and frozen for later use.

Caprese Salad

Another classic that showcases the partnership of tomatoes and basil. Layer slices of tomato and fresh mozzarella on a plate, then top with basil leaves, olive oil, balsamic reduction, and a pinch of salt. This dish is as beautiful as it is delicious.

Homemade Pizza with Tomato and Basil

Make a simple pizza dough and top it with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and plenty of basil leaves. Bake until the crust is golden and the cheese is bubbly. For an extra burst of flavour, drizzle with olive oil and scatter fresh basil on top just before serving.

Basil Pesto

Pesto is a versatile sauce that can be used on pasta, sandwiches, or as a dip. Blend fresh basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese, and olive oil until smooth. Adjust the consistency with more oil if needed, and season with salt to taste.

Preserving Your Harvest

To extend the enjoyment of your garden’s bounty, consider preserving your tomatoes and basil. Tomatoes can be canned, dried, or frozen. For canning, make a simple sauce or preserve whole tomatoes to use in winter dishes. Basil can be turned into pesto and frozen in small portions, or the leaves can be dried and stored in an airtight container.

The Joy of Growing Your Own Food

The Rewards of Home Gardening

Growing your own tomatoes and basil isn’t just about having fresh ingredients at your fingertips. It’s about the deep satisfaction that comes from nurturing plants and the connection to the food on your plate. Homegrown often tastes superior, not to mention fresher than store-bought, and then there’s nothing quite like announcing at the dinner table that the meal is homemade and homegrown.

Sharing your harvest with friends and family, or even trading with fellow gardeners, is another joy of home gardening. Whether it’s a jar of homemade tomato sauce or a bundle of fresh basil, these gifts are always appreciated.

If you’ve been thinking about starting a garden, now is the perfect time for spring and summer. Tomatoes and basil are fantastic for beginners—they’re easy to grow and incredibly rewarding. Plus, there are plenty of resources out there, from your local nursery to YouTube videos and online communities.

Wrapping Up

At Diaco’s, we believe that growing your own tomatoes and basil is a fun and rewarding experience. Whether you’re making a simple salad, a tasty pasta sauce, or a homemade pizza, nothing beats the flavour of homegrown food. So why not start your own garden? Growing from seed to harvest is something anyone can do, and we’re here to help you along the way.

Every garden has its own story to tell, and few stories are as tasty and exciting as the one about tomatoes and basil. These two plants aren’t just good friends in the garden—they’re also a perfect match in the kitchen. Gardeners and cooks alike love them because they’re easy to grow, super versatile, and packed with flavour. Let’s take a look at the history, the benefits of growing them together, and why your garden needs these two stars.

The Rich Heritage of Tomatoes and Basil

Before we jump into the fun of growing tomatoes and basil together, it’s interesting to know a bit about where they came from and why they’re so special.

Tomatoes: A Journey Across the World

Tomatoes didn’t always grow in gardens around the world. They originally came from the Andes in South America and were first grown by the Aztecs in Mexico. When explorers brought tomatoes to Europe in the 1500s, people were a bit unsure about them—some even though they might be poisonous! But by the 1700s, tomatoes had found a home in European kitchens, especially in Italy.

Basil: The Sacred Herb

Basil has a long history too. It started out in India, where it was considered a sacred herb. As it spread to other parts of the world, like the Mediterranean, it became a favourite in cooking, especially in Greece and Italy. Basil has been loved for centuries because of its amazing taste and its use in both food and medicine.

Tomatoes and Basil: A Perfect Pair in Italian Cooking

Tomatoes and basil became best friends in Italian cooking. They’re the stars of dishes like Caprese salad (tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella), Margherita pizza, and many pasta sauces. This duo isn’t just popular in Italy—people all over the world love the way these two ingredients taste together.

Why Every Garden Should Have This Dynamic Duo

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, tomatoes and basil are must-haves in your garden.

Ease of Growing for Beginners

Both tomatoes and basil are relatively easy to grow, making them perfect for beginners. Tomatoes are robust and can be grown in the ground or in containers, while basil is quick-growing and can even be started indoors on a sunny windowsill. The satisfaction of nurturing these plants from seedlings to harvest is unmatched, and the rewards are delicious.

Sustainability and Self-Sufficiency

Growing your own tomatoes and basil is a simple way to live more sustainably. By growing your own food, you’re not just reducing how much you rely on store-bought produce, but you’re also cutting back on the plastic and packaging that comes with it. Plus, there’s something really satisfying about knowing exactly where your food comes from and the effort you put into growing it.

The Joy of Harvesting and Cooking with Homegrown Produce

There’s nothing like the taste of a tomato straight from the vine or the smell of freshly picked basil just before it goes into your dish. Gardening brings you closer to your food in a way that’s truly rewarding. When you grow tomatoes and basil together, you’re not just growing plants—you’re creating experiences, making memories, and finding a deeper appreciation for the simple joys in life.

The Benefits of Planting Tomatoes and Basil Together

Companion planting is all about making the most of the beneficial relationships between two or more plants, creating a healthier and more productive garden. It’s an age-old practice that helps to control pests, improve growth, and make the most of your garden space.

Why Tomatoes and Basil Make the Perfect Pair

Tomatoes and basil are the poster children of companion planting. When grown together, they do more than just look good side by side—they actually help each other thrive. Basil acts as a natural pest repellent, keeping common tomato pests like hornworms and aphids at bay. Its strong aroma confuses these pests, reducing the need for chemical interventions.

But the benefits don’t stop there. Basil is also believed to enhance the flavour of tomatoes when grown nearby. Whether this is due to shared soil nutrients or the beneficial interactions of their root systems, many gardeners swear by the improved taste of tomatoes grown with basil. Plus, basil’s fast growth can help shade the soil, reducing water evaporation and helping to keep tomato roots cool during hot summer days.

Practical Tips for Companion Planting

To get the most out of this dynamic duo, it’s important to plant them correctly. Both love the same soil conditions and moisture levels making it pretty easy to keep both happy. Here are some helpful tips to get you started:

Spacing: Plant basil around 30-45 cm away from your tomato plants. This spacing allows for airflow and reduces the risk of fungal diseases. When growing in pots, you can grow companion basil in the container depending on the pot size, or in a separate container that you position next to the tomato plant. Planting in scattered groupings rather than neat rows helps confuse pests and isolate infestations.

Watering: Both plants enjoy consistent watering, but be careful not to overwater. Basil doesn’t like soggy soil, and too much water can lead to root rot in both plants.

Sunlight: Ensure that both plants get plenty of sunlight—around 6-8 hours of direct sun per day is ideal. Spring is the best time to begin growing tomatoes and basil in the garden. 

Mulching: Add a layer of mulch around your plants to help retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and protect the roots from temperature extremes.

Fertiliser: Basil loves a nitrogen heavy fertiliser however be careful to strike the right balance as too much nitrogen cause end up with green tomatoes to don’t fully fruit

Biodiversity: Include flowering plants in and around your vegetable garden to draw beneficial insects and support pollinators.

With these simple tips, you’ll be well on your way to a thriving garden filled with vibrant tomatoes and fragrant basil.

Culinary Magic – Bringing the Garden to the Kitchen

One of the greatest joys of gardening is bringing your harvest into the kitchen. Tomatoes and basil are a culinary dream team, and their uses are as varied as they are delicious.

Classic Dishes Featuring Tomatoes and Basil

You can’t talk about tomatoes and basil without thinking of the classic dishes that make this pair so special. Take Caprese salad, for example—ripe tomato slices, fresh basil leaves, and creamy mozzarella, all drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It’s a perfect example of how simple, high-quality ingredients can shine. Then there’s Margherita pizza, where tomato sauce, fresh basil, and mozzarella cheese come together on a crispy crust to create a delicious harmony of flavours.

But it’s not just about these well-known dishes. Tomatoes and basil can make everyday meals even better. Toss some fresh basil into a tomato pasta sauce for an extra burst of flavour, or add chopped basil to a tomato-based soup to give it a fresh twist.

Preserving the Harvest

If you’re lucky enough to have an abundant harvest, preserving your tomatoes and basil is a great way to enjoy them year-round. Basil can be dried or frozen, or you can turn it into pesto, which freezes beautifully and can be a quick addition to pasta or sandwiches.

Tomatoes can be canned, made into sauces, or dried for later use. A jar of homemade tomato sauce with fresh basil is like a little taste of summer on a cold winter’s day. At Diaco’s, we love seeing our customers enjoy their harvests long after the growing season has ended, and preserving your produce is a wonderful way to keep the flavours of your garden alive all year long.

Wrapping Up

At Diaco’s Garden Nursery, we’re passionate about helping you create a garden that’s not only beautiful but also bountiful. The combination of tomatoes and basil is a celebration of nature’s synergy, a testament to the power of companion planting, and a delicious way to bring the garden into your kitchen. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, we encourage you to plant this dynamic duo in your garden. You’ll be rewarded with a harvest that’s as rich in flavour as it is in history. Happy gardening, and happy cooking! If you need any advice or tips along the way, remember, at Diaco’s, we’re always here to help.

Do fallen leaves make good mulch for your garden? We hear this question quite a bit around here at Diaco’s. Who doesn’t want to get the most out of what nature gives us—especially when it’s free and reduces waste! The answer, dear gardening friends, is a yes. And, no, sometimes. In this guide, we’ll show you the ropes of using those autumnal treasures to enrich your garden. 

Think of it as a way to not just beautify your outdoor space but also embrace a more sustainable approach to gardening. 

So, let’s get down to business and explore how you can turn your yard into an eco-friendly haven with nothing more than the leaves Mother Nature drops at your doorstep.

What is Mulch and Why is it Good for My Garden?

Mulch is like a superhero for your garden, offering loads of benefits whether it’s made from natural stuff like wood chips and leaves or from man-made materials like gravel and rubber chips.

Here’s why mulch is fantastic for your garden:

  • Keeps Moisture: Mulch acts like a sponge, holding water in the soil so you don’t have to water your plants as often. This is super helpful when it’s really dry or you’re in a place that doesn’t get much rain.
  • Stops Weeds: It also acts like a shield, blocking sunlight from reaching weeds that want to grow. This means you spend less time weeding and more time enjoying your garden.
  • Keeps Soil Temperate: Mulch helps keep the soil temperature steady, protecting plant roots from getting too hot in summer or too cold in winter, which means your plants grow better.
  • Feeds the Soil: As natural mulch breaks down, it turns into food for the soil, making it really rich and great for plants to grow in.

By using mulch, you’re not just making your garden look good, you’re also making it healthier and easier to take care of!

Navigating the Challenges of Leaf Mulch

When using leaves as mulch, it’s handy to know some of the issues you might face. Here’s a quick guide to solving common leaf mulch problems so you can make the most of it in your garden:

  • Stopping Soil Suffocation: Wet leaves can stick together and block air and water from reaching the soil, which can harm your plants. Solution: Chop up the leaves before you use them as mulch to keep the soil airy and moist.
  • Balancing Soil Nutrients: Leaves from different trees have different nutrients. Using just one type of leaf might not give your soil what it needs. Solution: Mix leaves from various trees or compost them first to balance the nutrients before you spread them on your garden.
  • Avoiding Weed Seeds: Sometimes, leaves can bring weed seeds into your garden, which might grow and crowd out your plants. Solution: Use leaves from areas without weeds, or compost the leaves at high temperatures to kill any seeds.
  • Keeping Rodents Away: Thick layers of leaf mulch might attract rodents looking for a home, which isn’t good for your garden. Solution: Don’t pile the mulch too high (about 5-7.5 cm is good), and keep it away from the stems and trunks of plants.
  • Preventing Disease Spread: If leaves from diseased plants get into your mulch, they can spread illness to your garden. Solution: Always check the leaves for signs of disease before you use them, and don’t mulch with any that look infected.
  • Regular Top-Ups: Leaf mulch breaks down over time, so you’ll need to add more to keep it effective. Solution: Plan to add fresh mulch regularly to keep your garden protected and nourished.
  • Meeting Plant Needs: Some plants might not do well under a leaf mulch if they need lots of sunlight or specific soil conditions. Solution: Adjust how you mulch to make sure it suits the different plants in your garden.

By tackling these issues, you’ll make the best use of leaf mulch and help your garden stay healthy and beautiful.

The Right Tools for Leaf Mulching

Turning leaves into mulch is a breeze when you’ve got the right tools. Here’s a list of the most helpful ones. Remember, you don’t need all of them – just choose the tools that will work best for the types of leaves you have, the size of your garden, and your local weather.

  • Mulching Mowers: These mowers are great if you want a simple, effective way to mulch. They chop leaves into tiny pieces that break down fast and feed your lawn.
  • Leaf Shredders and Chippers: If you’ve got loads of leaves or branches, these machines are perfect. They chop up everything into small bits that make excellent mulch.
  • Garden Shredders: These are good for making uniform mulch out of mixed organic materials, giving you a consistent texture that’s easy to spread around your garden.
  • Leaf Blowers with Mulching Functions: Super versatile, these tools suck up leaves, chop them up, and get them ready to use as mulch, all in one go.
  • Garden Forks and Rakes: You’ll need these for spreading your mulch evenly. They help make sure it doesn’t get too packed down, so your soil can still breathe.
  • Wheelbarrows or garden carts: Essential for moving mulch around, especially if you’re covering a big area. They save you loads of time and effort.

Pick the tools that match your garden’s needs, and mulching will feel like a piece of cake!Step-by-Step: Transforming Leaf Litter into Garden Gold

Step-by-Step: Transforming Leaf Litter into Garden Gold

Embrace the process of converting leaf litter into a nurturing mulch with these simple steps. It’s really quite simple, and preparation is key.

1. Prepare Your Garden: Begin by removing any large debris, such as sticks and stones, that could interfere with mulching. This ensures a clean canvas for your leaf mulch.

2. Choose Your Mulching Method: Depending on your garden’s size and your preferences, select the most suitable tool, whether it’s a mulching mower for a small yard or a chipper for a larger space..

3. Shred the Leaves: Use your chosen tool to shred the leaves. If using a mower, adjust it to a higher setting to avoid damaging the grass while blending the leaves.

4. Apply the Mulch: Spread the shredded leaves around your plants in a layer 2-3 inches thick. This ensures adequate protection without suffocating the soil.

5. Water the Mulched Area: Gently water the newly applied mulch to help it settle. This also aids in initiating the decomposition process, enriching the soil underneath.

Seasonal Mulching Tips

Here in Australia, the weather can change a lot depending on where you are and the time of year. It’s smart to change how you use leaf mulch through the seasons to really help your garden grow:

  • Spring: After the mild winter, spring is a great time to get your garden ready for new plants. Use any leftover mulch to make the soil rich and ready for planting. Check if you need more mulch and add some if necessary to help with the spring growth.
  • Summer: It gets really hot and dry, so mulching is key to keep your garden’s soil moist and cool. Spread a fresh layer of leaf mulch to help the soil hold onto water and protect the plant roots from the heat. Just make sure not to pile on too much, or it might trap too much heat and stress the plants.
  • Autumn: This is the best time to mulch because lots of trees drop their leaves. Gather and shred these leaves to put fresh mulch in your garden. This helps keep your plants warm over the cooler months and improves the soil as the leaves break down.
  • Winter: In the warmer parts of Australia, like the coast and the north, putting down some mulch in winter can keep the soil from getting too cold and help it stay moist without getting soggy. In colder areas, be careful not to make the mulch layer too thick, which could keep the soil too cold and wet, hurting the plant roots.

Remember to tweak how and when you mulch based on your local weather and what your garden needs throughout the year to keep it looking great.

Wrapping Up

Leaf mulching is an effective way to enrich your garden soil, conserve water, and reduce waste. By understanding the potential challenges and how to overcome them, you can ensure your garden benefits fully from this natural, sustainable practice. So, grab those rakes and mowers, and let’s give back to our gardens with the gift of leaf mulch.

Mulch is practically magic in your garden toolkit. It’s the unsung hero that keeps those pesky weeds at bay, locks in that precious moisture, and gives your garden that lush, healthy glow. But, with a whole world of mulch out there, finding the perfect match for your green babies might feel a tad overwhelming. Fear not, for this guide is your golden ticket. Whether you’re dipping your toes into gardening or you’ve got soil deep under your fingernails from years of experience, we’ve got your back. Discover how the right mulch can elevate your garden from mere land to wonderland. With a pinch of Diaco’s wisdom and a dash of your gardening zest, we’re on our way to making your garden the envy of the block. So, let’s dive in, get our hands a bit dirty, and transform your garden into a slice of paradise. It’s time to unlock the secrets of mulching.

What is mulch?

Mulch is material you put on top of the soil around plants offering protection and a boost to plant growth. It locks in moisture, fends off weeds, keeps soil temperatures consistent, and overall, contributes to healthier, happier plants. Mulch can be a product of living sources such as wood chips, straw, and leaves—these are known as organic mulches. They break down over time, enriching the soil with nutrients. Then there’s inorganic mulch, made from non-living materials like gravel and rubber chips, which doesn’t decompose but still offers protective benefits.

When to use mulch?

Mulch is crucial for both new and existing plants. For new plants, it helps create a stable environment to support their initial growth by regulating soil temperature, retaining moisture, and reducing weed competition. This nurturing environment is vital for their successful establishment in the garden.

For existing plants, mulch continues to offer these benefits, contributing to their ongoing health and vitality. It maintains soil moisture, which is essential during dry periods, suppresses weeds that can compete for nutrients, and helps keep soil temperatures consistent. As organic mulch breaks down, it also improves soil structure and adds nutrients, which can enhance plant growth over time.

Spotting the Telltale Signs Your Garden Craves Mulch

Recognising when your plants might need mulch is key to maintaining a healthy garden. Here are some signs to watch for:

  • Dry Soil: If the soil around your plants dries out quickly after watering, it’s a sign that mulch could help. Mulch helps retain soil moisture by reducing evaporation.
  • Weed Growth: An increase in weeds around your plants indicates that mulch could be beneficial. Mulch acts as a barrier, suppressing weed germination and growth.
  • Soil Temperature Fluctuations: If the soil temperature in your garden seems to vary widely between day and night, mulch can help moderate these fluctuations, providing a more stable environment for plant roots.
  • Soil Erosion: If you notice soil washing away from plant roots, especially on slopes or in heavy rain areas, mulch can help prevent erosion by shielding the soil from direct impact of raindrops and runoff.
  • Poor Plant Growth: If your plants are struggling to grow or appear less vigorous, it could be due to competition from weeds or stress from temperature and moisture fluctuations. Adding mulch can alleviate these stresses and support healthier growth.
  • Exposed Roots: When plant roots become exposed, either from soil erosion or settling, mulch can protect them by covering the soil and preventing further exposure.
  • Thin or Decomposed Mulch Layer: If you’ve previously applied mulch and it has decomposed significantly or has been dispersed, it’s time to add a fresh layer. A thin mulch layer won’t provide the benefits your garden needs.

Observing these signs and responding with appropriate mulching will help ensure your plants remain healthy, conserve water, and reduce maintenance needs in your garden.

Types of mulch

Picking the right mulch is key to using it well and getting the best results. Each mulch type offers specific benefits and is suited for different plants or gardening needs. By choosing the right mulch for your garden, you can enhance plant health, improve soil quality, and achieve your desired aesthetic. When choosing mulch, think about what your plants need, what the weather is like where you live, and what you like. 

Blackwood mulch

Also known as black mulch, made from durable hardwood, this mulch features a deep black colour that contrasts beautifully with green foliage, making it perfect for decorative purposes as well as practical garden uses. Ideal for ornamental gardens where the visual contrast can highlight plantings or for use around shrubs and perennials that benefit from the moisture retention and weed suppression it offers.

Redwood mulch

Another hardwood mulch, also known as simply red mulch, dyed red for a striking appearance that can add a warm tone to garden beds. Works well in garden areas where you want to draw attention or enhance the colours of flowering plants, such as roses or annuals. It’s also effective in retaining moisture and controlling weeds around trees and bushes.

Euca mulch

Made from eucalyptus trees, this mulch is low in phosphorus, making it suitable for native Australian gardens that thrive in low-phosphorus soils. Particularly beneficial for Australian natives like banksias, waratahs, and grevilleas, which prefer the specific nutrient profile that this mulch supports.

Brownwood mulch

Also known as brown mulch, a versatile, natural-looking mulch that blends well with most garden designs. It decomposes over time, adding organic matter to the soil. Good for a broad range of plants, including deciduous shrubs, perennials, and annual flower beds. It’s a general-purpose mulch that works well in most garden situations.

Pine Bark mulch

Pine bark mulch has a natural appearance and comes in various sizes, from fine to large nuggets. It’s slightly acidic, which can help lower soil pH over time. Best for acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and blueberries. The softer, smaller sizes are excellent for use in playgrounds or paths, where a softer landing is beneficial.

Sugar Cane mulch

A by-product of the sugar cane industry, this mulch is lightweight and easy to spread. It breaks down relatively quickly, enriching the soil with organic matter and nutrients. Best for vegetable gardens, berry patches, and flower beds that benefit from the added nutrients and improved soil structure. It’s also a sustainable choice for organic gardening.

Mushroom Compost

Although called compost, it’s often used as a mulch. It’s rich in organic matter and nutrients, making it an excellent soil conditioner. Ideal for enriching soil in vegetable gardens, herb gardens, and for plants that thrive in nutrient-rich conditions. Avoid using it with native plants that prefer low-nutrient soils.

Moisture mulch

Designed to retain a significant amount of water, this mulch helps to keep the soil moist for longer periods, reducing the need for frequent watering. Perfect for use in garden beds that are exposed to full sun, areas with water-hungry plants, or during hot, dry periods. It’s beneficial for most garden plants, particularly those that require consistent moisture, like hydrangeas and ferns.

Tips to Become a Master Mulcher

Putting mulch in your garden is easy, but you should follow some simple steps to make sure it works well. Remember that the goal of mulching isn’t just to make your garden look neat and tidy. The right approach to mulching can significantly enhance soil health, improve plant vigour, and reduce the time you spend on tasks like watering and weeding. Plus, by maintaining an optimal mulch layer, you’re creating a healthier environment for your garden’s ecosystem, encouraging beneficial organisms that support plant growth. Keep these tips in mind, and you’ll find mulching to be a rewarding part of your gardening routine, helping your garden thrive throughout the seasons. Here are the key tips:

Clean Up

Before you start, it’s crucial to prepare the area where you’ll be applying mulch. This means removing any weeds or unwanted grass, which could compete with your plants for nutrients and water. After clearing the area, water the soil if it’s dry. This initial moistening helps create a welcoming environment for the mulch to do its job keeping that moisture in and helping to establish a barrier against future weed growth.

When introducing new plants to your garden, start by preparing the soil and arranging your plants in their designated spots. Once they’re comfortably settled, you can enrich the soil with fertilisers. With these steps complete, it’s time to apply your mulch, giving your new additions the perfect environment to thrive.

Spread It Out

When you’re ready to mulch, aim for a uniform layer that’s about 2-4 inches thick. This thickness is ideal because it’s enough to retain moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth, without being so thick that it smothers your plants. Be careful to avoid direct contact with plant stems and tree trunks. Mulch piled against plants can trap too much moisture, potentially leading to rot or fungal diseases.

Give Space

Around each plant, leave a bit of breathing room. This space ensures that air can circulate around the plant base, reducing the risk of diseases that thrive in damp, stagnant conditions. Think of it as giving your plants a little ‘personal space’ . It’s vital for their health and growth.

Watering

Water your garden after mulching to help settle the mulch in place and to provide moisture to the newly planted or existing plants. The mulch will help retain this moisture, reducing the frequency of watering needed.

Add More When Needed

As time passes, mulch naturally breaks down. This decomposition is beneficial because it adds nutrients to the soil, but it also means the mulch layer becomes thinner. To maintain its effectiveness, check the mulch depth periodically and top it up as needed. This usually means adding more mulch once or twice a year, but the exact timing can depend on the type of mulch you’re using and the weather conditions in your area. Organic mulches tend to break down faster than inorganic ones, so they require more frequent replenishment.

Finding the Perfect Time to Lay Down Mulch

When to start mulching? Well, it’s all about what you want to achieve and the time of year. Think of early spring as prime time for mulching in most places. This is when the earth shakes off its winter chill. Adding mulch now keeps in the moisture from those lovely spring showers, stops those eager weeds in their tracks, and gives your plant roots a cosy shield as the days get warmer.

But, aiming to keep your greens snug against the winter chill? Then, layering your garden with mulch after the first frost of late autumn is your best bet. This keeps the ground just right, not too cold, throughout winter. Remember, for those warm-lovers in your garden, hold off on the mulch until the ground feels like spring has truly sprung, to avoid any cold toes, or, well, roots.

Storing Unused Mulch

Storing unused or excess mulch properly can extend its lifespan and ensure it remains effective for your gardening needs. Here are some best practices for storing mulch:

  • Keep It Dry: Moisture is the enemy of stored mulch as it can lead to mould or fungus growth. Ensure that the storage area is dry and well-ventilated. If you’re storing mulch outdoors, elevate it off the ground on pallets to prevent moisture from seeping in from below.
  • Cover It Up: If the mulch is loose and not in bags, cover it with a tarp to protect it from rain and to prevent it from getting blown away by the wind. Make sure the tarp is secured but allows some air circulation to prevent condensation from forming underneath.
  • Use Breathable Containers: For long-term storage, consider transferring bagged or loose mulch into breathable containers like burlap sacks or wooden crates. These materials allow air flow, which helps prevent the issues associated with poor ventilation, such as mould growth.
  • Avoid Direct Sunlight: Store mulch in a shaded area or under a cover that protects it from direct sunlight. UV rays can degrade plastic bags over time, leading to tears and exposure of the mulch to moisture and pests.
  • Check Regularly: Periodically inspect your stored mulch for signs of dampness, mould, or pests. If you notice any problems, address them immediately to prevent the mulch from becoming unusable.
  • Rotate Stock: If you have multiple bags or batches of mulch, use the oldest ones first to prevent them from sitting unused for too long. This rotation ensures that all your stored mulch remains fresh and effective for garden use.

Wrapping Up

Think of mulch as your garden’s superhero – swooping in to save the day, keeping it lush, lovely, and lively. Choosing the right mulch and mastering its application isn’t just about garden maintenance; it’s about giving your green space the glow-up it deserves. And guess what? Diaco’s has got your back every step of the way. We’re not just your go-to spot for garden supplies; we’re your fellow gardening enthusiasts, bringing you closer to the garden of your dreams, with a helping hand and a smile. There’s no limit to what you and your garden can achieve. Here’s to making your garden not just great, but spectacular.

Have you ever thought about growing your own food right in your backyard? Not just any food, but unique, tasty, and entirely Australian native plants. These aren’t your regular veggies and fruits; these are what we call “bush tucker” or “Australian bush foods” – foods that are native to Australia and have been part of the traditional diet of Indigenous Australians for thousands of years. Today, we’re going to explore why these incredible edible native plants should find a spot in your garden.

Year-Round Growth

One of the best things about Australian native foods is that you can grow them all year round. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or a small balcony space, there’s always room for a bush tucker plant. Unlike traditional vegetable gardens that need specific seasons to thrive, native plants are champions of adaptability. They’ve evolved to cope with Australia’s diverse climates, from the cool, temperate zones to the heat of the tropics.

This means you can plant something like the beautiful lemon myrtle, which not only smells fantastic but can also be used to make tea or add a citrusy zest to your meals. Or consider the resilient wattleseed, perfect for adding a nutty flavour to baked goods. With edible plants suited for every part of Australia, your garden can become a year-round source of food and beauty.

Suited to the Climate

Why choose plants that struggle with the local weather when you can grow native foods that are meant to thrive here? Australian bush tucker plants require far less water and care than many common garden plants. They are perfectly suited to the Australian climate, which makes them a sustainable choice for your garden.

Growing plants like the kangaroo apple or the native currant not only adds variety to your garden but also helps support local wildlife and insects, including bees. These plants are a natural choice for anyone looking to make their garden more eco-friendly.

Potted Plant Possibilities

Not everyone has a large garden, but don’t worry – many Australian bush foods grow happily in pots. This makes them perfect for balcony gardens or smaller spaces. Potted bush tucker plants like the Davidson plum or the small but mighty mountain pepper can be moved around to catch the sun or shelter from too much heat, which means you can adjust their conditions to suit their needs without much hassle.

Plus, having potted plants means you can bring a touch of nature indoors during colder months, keeping your home green and vibrant year-round.

Cooking Variety

Imagine plucking fresh ingredients from your garden to throw into your dinner. Australian native foods offer a fantastic array of flavours that can transform your cooking. From herbs and edible flowers that can brighten up a salad to fruits that make refreshing teas, the possibilities are endless.

You could use lemon myrtle leaves to create a delightful herbal tea or add fresh finger lime to your fish dishes for a burst of citrusy flavour. Each plant offers something unique – pepperberry can spice up your dishes, while native mint provides a fresh twist to your drinks.

Nutritional Benefits

Not only do these plants taste great, but they’re also packed with nutrients. Australian native foods are often rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. For example, the Kakadu plum is known for having more vitamin C than an orange, making it a superfood that can help boost your immune system.

Other plants like the Davidson plum are high in anthocyanins, which are great for your health. And if you’re looking for minerals, look no further than bush tomatoes and wattleseeds, which provide selenium – an essential mineral for your body.

Top 6 Easiest Native Bush Food Plants to Grow at Home

Australia is full of unique, edible plants that show off the country’s rich plant life. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, here are six native bush food plants that are easy and rewarding to grow at home:

1. Samphire (Sea Asparagus, Sea Pickle)

Samphire, or sea asparagus, is a marvel of the coastal ecosystem. It thrives in salty soils and can grow in conditions where many other plants would fail. Its vibrant green, succulent stems are not only a visual treat but also offer a crunchy, salty flavour that’s perfect for adding a fresh twist to salads or as a garnish. This hardy plant is ideal for those new to gardening, as it requires minimal care once established.

2. Saltbush

Saltbush is incredibly resilient, making it perfect for beginners. With its striking silver-grey foliage, it adds a splash of colour to your garden and is very low maintenance. Saltbush thrives in a variety of soil conditions, from sandy to clay, and is excellent for water conservation. Its leaves can be used in cooking, offering a subtle salty flavour that complements a wide range of dishes.

3. Karkalla (Pigface)

Karkalla, commonly known as Pigface, is another coastal succulent that’s easy to grow. It’s particularly well-suited to sandy soils and tolerates drought conditions well. The fleshy leaves and vibrant pink flowers not only make it an attractive garden plant but are also edible, with a slightly salty taste. Karkalla is perfect for adding a pop of colour and interest to your garden beds or containers.

4. Warrigal Greens

Known for their robust nature, Warrigal Greens are an excellent choice for anyone starting a garden. They have large, triangular leaves that are glossy and vibrant. These greens are not just ornamental; their unique taste is perfect for adding to salads or cooking like spinach. They’re highly adaptable and grow well in a variety of conditions, making them a favourite among beginner gardeners.

5. Bush Tomato

the bush tomato is a standout for its intriguing appearance and resilience. With its small to medium-sized, ovate leaves and greyish stems, it’s not only tough but also drought-resistant. Bush tomatoes add a unique Australian twist to your garden, and their fruit is great for making chutneys and sauces.

6. Yam Daisy

The Yam Daisy is easy to cultivate and adds elegance to your garden with its lance-shaped or narrowly elliptical leaves. It’s not just visually appealing; the tubers are edible and have a sweet, nutty flavour, similar to sweet potato. It’s a great choice for gardeners looking to explore the taste and benefits of native root vegetables without too much hassle.

Wrapping Up

Growing Australian native foods at home offers so many benefits. It’s not just about the delicious and nutritious foods you can harvest but also about embracing a piece of Australian heritage. Whether you have a vast garden or just a small space on your balcony, consider planting some native bush food plants. Not only will you enjoy the benefits of fresh, home-grown produce, but you’ll also contribute to a healthier environment.

So, why not start your bush tucker adventure today? Visit us at Diaco’s Garden Nursery, where we’re more than happy to help you choose the best plants for your garden and provide all the advice you need.

Have you ever heard of lemon myrtle, bush tomato, Davidson’s plum, or finger lime? Maybe some of these names sound familiar, or maybe they don’t. It’s quite common not to know much about the wide range of Australian bush natives, even though they’re all around us. These plants are more than just part of the scenery; they’re key ingredients in Australia’s food culture.

This blog is here to expand our understanding of these amazing ingredients. By using bush natives in our daily cooking, we can explore their unique flavours and health benefits. Whether you’re a seasoned chef or just love experimenting with food, this guide will show you how to start using these incredible ingredients to make your meals even better, adding new flavours and aromas, and boosting your cooking skills. We’ll also introduce some great swaps for everyday herbs and vegetables with bush native options that can really change up your cooking. Let’s get started, ask questions, and try these native wonders. This journey is all about learning more about the native foods in our own backyard and bringing a bit of Australian nature into our kitchens.

What Are Australian Bush Natives?

Bush natives, or native Australian plants, are a colourful bunch that includes various fruits, nuts, herbs, and spices found across the Australian landscape. Familiar names like lemon myrtle, wattleseed, and Kakadu plum might ring a bell. These plants aren’t just beautiful to look at; they carry a slice of Australia’s heart and history. 

Today, bush natives are well-known here and overseas for their unique flavours. Whether you’re making a meal for your family or just having a snack, adding some bush native ingredients can give your food a true taste of Australia’s natural heritage.

What Are the Benefits of Cooking with Bush Natives?

Cooking with bush natives introduces new, intriguing flavours to your dishes and offers several benefits:

  • Unique Flavours: Bush natives provide distinct tastes that can’t be found in other global ingredients.
  • Nutritional Benefits: Many bush natives are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and essential nutrients.
  • Sustainable Cooking: Using native plants promotes biodiversity and reduces the environmental impact associated with imported ingredients.

Tips for Incorporating Bush Natives in Your Recipes

  • Start Small: Add small amounts of bush natives to dishes you already know.
  • Be Creative: Incorporate bush natives in marinades, dressings, baked goods, and drinks.
  • Pair Wisely: Combine bush native flavours with complementary ingredients to enhance both their tastes.

Easy Swaps for Herbs

  • Regular Mint for Bush Mint: Swap your usual mint for bush mint in mojitos, lamb dishes, or fresh salads. Bush mint has a more intense, peppery flavour that adds a fresh, aromatic twist to these dishes.
  • Regular Basil for Bush Basil (Native Basil): Renowned for its strong aroma and peppery, citrus notes, bush basil adds a creative twist to the familiar classic. It’s perfect for those looking to infuse a distinctly Australian flavour into their cooking, ideal in dishes where you would normally use traditional basil to add an exciting and uniquely Australian touch.
  • Rosemary for Wild Rosemary: Known for its robust and earthy fragrance, wild rosemary contributes depth and complexity to culinary creations. It’s ideal for enhancing the flavours in a range of dishes, from roasted meats to flavourful marinades.
  • Oregano for Saltbush: Substitute saltbush for oregano in Mediterranean dishes, tomato-based sauces, or grilled vegetables. Saltbush has a salty, herbaceous flavour that complements meats and vegetables beautifully.
  • Lemongrass for Wild Lemongrass: Swap traditional lemongrass for wild lemongrass, an Australian variant that offers a citrusy and tangy flavour. It’s incredibly versatile, enhancing both savoury and sweet dishes with its vibrant taste.
  • Thyme for Native Thyme: Replace traditional thyme with native thyme in your recipes. With its delicate leaves and savoury taste, native thyme is a versatile herb that adds a subtle yet distinctive flavour to many dishes, making it a kitchen favourite.

Easy Swaps for Vegetables

  • Regular Sweet Potato for Native Sweet Potato: Native Sweet Potatoes are richer, nuttier, and a bit sweeter than regular sweet potatoes. They’re usually smaller and might not be as smooth in shape, with skin colours ranging from deep purple to rustic red and a vibrant orange or yellow inside. They’re great for baking, making smooth sweet potato fries, or adding something special to roasted veggies.
  • Spinach for Warrigal Greens:  Warrigal Greens, or New Zealand spinach, have a stronger and slightly salty flavour with an earthy feel, making them a great swap for regular spinach. Their thick, shiny green leaves handle salty coastal areas well, which adds to their unique taste. Use them to spice up salads, as a cooked side dish, or in quiches.
  • Potatoes for Murnong (Yam Daisy): Murnong, or Yam Daisy, tastes sweet and nutty with a touch of earthiness, making it a cool alternative to regular potatoes. These small, round tubers look like new potatoes but have rougher, golden-brown skin and creamy white, tender insides. They’re great mashed, in stews, or in potato salads to make your dish stand out.
  • Celery for Sea Celery: Sea Celery (or sea parsley)  is a stronger and more flavourful version of regular celery, with a salty and herby taste. It’s smaller and bushier with finely divided green to bluish leaves, showing it can grow well in salty places. It’s perfect for adding a bold taste to soups, stews, and stuffing.
  • Pumpkin for Desert Yam: Desert Yam is a sweeter and creamier choice than regular pumpkin, with a hint of nuttiness. These yams are smaller and harder on the outside, ranging from tan to brown with dense, smooth orange to yellow flesh inside. They’re great in soups and pies where they make a richer base, and they also do well in roasted veggie dishes.
  • Regular Tomatoes for Bush Tomato: Bush Tomato, or Kutjera, changes up dishes with its deep, tangy flavour and touches of caramel and tamarind, making it more complex than regular tomatoes. These small, pea-sized fruits ripen to a deep brown and have a tough texture that softens when cooked or soaked. They’re perfect for adding depth to sauces, stews, and chutneys, and go well with meats and native spices for a truly Australian flavour in your cooking.

Where to Find and Buy Bush Natives

Bush natives are integral ingredients in a variety of products such as jams, sauces, teas, and as herbs and spices, all of which are becoming increasingly common in both specialty stores and online. Their unique flavours enhance everyday cooking, turning simple meals into gourmet experiences. Bush natives can be sourced from a number of places:

  • Speciality Grocery Stores: Look for these ingredients in stores that specialise in organic or native foods. These establishments often carry a range of bush native-based products like jams, teas, and spices, and their knowledgeable staff can offer guidance on how to use them in your cooking.
  • Online Retailers: Many online shops provide a broad selection of dried or fresh bush native ingredients. Shopping online is convenient, allowing you to access a variety of native ingredients from across the country.
  • Local Markets: Explore local farmer’s markets for fresh and ethically sourced supplies. These markets are fantastic for finding not only fresh produce but also artisanal products made from bush natives, such as sauces and jams.
  • Foraging Tours: Participate in foraging tours to learn how to safely gather your own bush natives. These educational experiences teach you about the natural habitat of these plants and how to harvest them sustainably.
  • Growing Your Own: For those interested in a more hands-on approach, consider growing bush natives at home. Seeds and young plants are available at many nurseries and online garden shops. Growing your own bush natives enriches your connection to the food you cook and eat, ensuring a fresh supply and supporting local biodiversity.

Incorporating bush natives into your garden or kitchen provides a sustainable way to explore and enjoy Australia’s rich botanical heritage. Whether you buy them or grow them, these native ingredients can transform your culinary creations.

Wrapping Up

Bringing Australian bush natives into your cooking is a fantastic way to connect with Australia’s rich culinary heritage while also adding some exciting and healthy twists to your meals. You can start with easy swaps and slowly explore the amazing array of flavours these natives have to offer. Whether you’re a pro in the kitchen or just starting out, using bush natives foods is a great way to add a bit of spice and a lot of heart to your cooking. Dive in, experiment, and enjoy the journey of discovering these unique tastes from our beautiful landscape. It’s all about making each meal special and savouring every bite with a smile!

Welcome to the vibrant world of bush tucker plants at Diaco’s Garden Nursery. As lovers of all things green, we’re here to shine a light on the edible natives of Australia—plants that thrive in our beloved Victorian climate. From the spacious greenery of a backyard to the quaint confines of a courtyard or balcony, bush tucker plants can add life and taste to any space. Today, we’ll uncover a selection of these plants that are not only simple to grow but also serve as a natural pantry of unique flavours, right outside your door. 

Bush Tucker Gardening for Melbourne Homes

In Melbourne and Geelong, every kind of garden, be it a spacious backyard, a cosy courtyard, or a small balcony, has the potential to embrace the wild beauty of bush tucker plants. Traditional homes with big backyards give a lot of room for these native plants to spread out. But as more people move into homes with outdoor spaces like courtyards or apartments with balconies, bush tucker plants find a new home. They happily grow in pots or small patches, bringing a touch of wilderness right into the heart of the city. The cool to mild climate in these areas is just right for bush tucker plants to thrive. So, no matter the size of the outdoor space, there’s always room for a bush tucker plant to add a touch of nature, making gardening an adventure accessible to everyone in Melbourne and Geelong.

Why Bush Tucker Plants?

Growing bush natives in your garden is like inviting a piece of Australia’s wild heart into your home. One of the biggest perks is that these plants are edible, providing fresh, tasty ingredients for your meals. They are a healthy choice and a great way to explore unique Aussie flavours right from your garden.

Native plants have also evolved with the natural climate here. They are used to our weather patterns, which means they grow well without too much fuss. This makes them a practical choice for local gardeners, reducing the struggle of dealing with plants that don’t like our weather.

Bush tucker plants are also friends of our local birds, bees, and butterflies. By planting them, you help to attract native biodiversity into your garden. It’s a natural way to invite some wildlife, making your garden a lively, enjoyable space.

Lastly, these plants are a sustainable choice. They don’t need a lot of water or special care to thrive, which is good for the environment and eases your gardening chores. By choosing bush tucker plants, you’re making a green choice, contributing to a more sustainable way of gardening. It’s a simple step towards being more eco-friendly while enjoying the natural beauty and flavours of Australia.

The Green Gems of the Bush

Bush tucker plants are Australia’s botanical treasures, offering a mix of flavours, colours, and textures. Let’s explore some of these bush tucker delights that are easy to grow and will add a sprinkle of Aussie essence to your Victoria garden:

1. Saltbush

Saltbush is a tough, enduring plant whose grey-green leaves sway gently in the sunlight, adding a touch of wilderness to your garden. It can grow up to 120 centimetres tall, revelling in full sun exposure. It’s quite adaptable but prefers well-draining soil. This one doesn’t need much water, making it a water-smart choice. Its edible leaves are a salty treat. The salty leaves of Saltbush can be used fresh in salads, or dried and crushed into a salt alternative for seasoning your dishes. 

2. Warrigal Greens

Known as New Zealand Spinach, Warrigal Greens softly carpet the ground or fill pots, bringing lush greenery to your space. They can spread to about 80 centimetres wide, thriving in well-draining soil under full to partial sun. They require a moderate amount of water to thrive. Warrigal Greens are a nutritious green, ready to be a healthy part of your meals. New Zealand spinach is a nutritious substitute for regular spinach and can be used in salads, quiches, or as a steamed vegetable side dish.

3. Bush Tomatoes

Kutjera, or Bush Tomatoes, are wild, small, yet bountiful, promising to add a zest to your meals. They can grow to 150 centimetres tall, loving the full sun and well-draining, sandy to loamy soil. They need very little water to thrive, being native to arid regions of Australia​. Kutjera can be eaten fresh or used dried as a spice with a caramel-like, spicy flavour profile. It is commonly added to chutneys, curries, and salsas, and can be used to create a crust on meats or as a flavorful ingredient in bread mixes, sauces, and dressings.

4. Karkalla

Karkalla, also known as Pigface, is a hearty succulent that adorns your garden with fleshy leaves and vibrant flowers. It can sprawl to 30 centimetres high, enjoying sandy, well-draining soil under full sun. This one doesn’t need much water, appreciating occasional sips. Karkalla’s succulent leaves can be eaten fresh in salads, or lightly sautéed and served as a crunchy, salty accompaniment to various dishes.

5. Sea Purslane

Sea Purslane, a lover of sandy soil, is ready to sprawl across your garden or nestle in pots, with its fleshy, edible leaves. It can spread to 30 centimetres tall, thriving in full sun with well-draining, sandy soil. With a low water requirement, this one is a true low-maintenance friend. Sea Purslane’s fleshy leaves add a salty crunch to salads, or can be lightly steamed as a healthy, mineral-rich side vegetable.

6. Bush Mint

Bush Mint has a strong yet gentle aroma, growing up to 60 centimetres tall. It enjoys partial shade and moist, well-draining soil. The bush mint requires a moderate amount of water – keep an eye on the soil moisture and water the plant when the topsoil starts to feel dry. It’s a delightful aroma bearer and culinary companion. Bush Mint is a delightful herb to use in teas, as a garnish, or to add a refreshing, minty flavour to a variety of dishes including lamb, desserts, and salads.

7. Macadamia Nut

The Macadamia tree is a tall dreamer, starting small in a pot but aspiring to reach up to 12 metres in height. It enjoys full sun to partial shade and well-draining, enriched soil.  It requires a moderate amount of water to thrive. Its delicious nuts are a gardener’s reward. The Macadamia plant is suitable for pots initially but will need to be transplanted directly into the ground eventually. We all know the famous macadamia nuts are a true delight, whether eaten raw, roasted, or used in baking to add a rich, nutty flavour to cookies, cakes, and other desserts.

8. Finger Lime

Finger Lime is a citrus delight growing up to 6 metres tall, thriving in well-draining soil under full sun to partial shade. This tree requires a moderate amount of watering. Its unique ‘citrus caviar’ is a gourmet delight and a visual treat in your garden. The unique ‘citrus caviar’ of Finger Limes can be used as a tangy garnish on seafood, in drinks, or desserts, adding a burst of citrusy flavour and a visually appealing touch.

9. Davidson’s Plum

Davidson’s Plum is a storyteller of ancient lands, stretching up to 10 metres tall. It thrives in well-draining, rich soil under partial shade. This tree requires a moderate amount of water – keep an eye on the soil moisture and water the plant when the topsoil starts to feel dry. Its tart plums are high in antioxidants and a link to the wild heart of Australia.  Davidson’s Plum is suitable for pots initially but requires transplanting as it grows. Davidson’s Plum can be used in a variety of ways – in jams, sauces, desserts, or even as a tangy addition to savoury dishes, providing a rich source of antioxidants along with a tart, fruity flavour.

Growing Conditions For Thriving Bush Native Plants

For your edible native plants to prosper, starting with the right soil is crucial. It should allow water to pass through easily while being rich in organic material. Even if you’re potting, a high-quality potting mix will work wonders for your plants over time.

When choosing what to grow, pick native edibles that are known to flourish in our Victorian climate. They won’t ask for much once they’re settled in but giving them a bit of extra care can lead to stronger growth and even tastier results. Feeding your plants with a native-specific fertiliser can really perk them up—liquid options get to work fast, helping your garden thrive and flavours deepen.

A few things to keep in mind after feeding your plants: Wait a little before you harvest, and make sure to give everything a good rinse before it makes its way to your plate.

And a word to the wise for when you’re dealing with those pesky garden invaders: Always follow the instructions on your pest control products to the letter, suit up with the right gear, and keep these products away from kids and pets.

Lastly, it’s always good to do your research before eating any plants.

At Diaco’s, we’re all about helping you grow a safe and delicious bush tucker garden. Pop in for a chat, and we’ll help you get your garden growing just right!

Wrapping Up

Whether you have a sprawling backyard, a snug courtyard, or a petite balcony, there’s a place for a bush tucker plant in your Melbourne or Geelong home. And remember, every little plant you grow contributes to a greener, more sustainable, and vibrant community. Swing by Diaco’s Garden Nursery, let’s explore together the bush tucker plants that resonate with your garden dreams. Our friendly and knowledgeable team is here to help you make your garden a delightful, nature-friendly nook in the urban landscape. Your garden adventure awaits.

If you’re keen to add a dash of variety in your vegie garden, it’s time to welcome the bush natives to your garden. In this beginner-friendly guide, we’re diving into the vibrant world of bush tucker plants, Australia’s own edible greens. Read on to discover how these homegrown stars can sprinkle some Aussie magic on your garden and dinner table. Here is Diaco’s Bush Tucker Plants for Beginners:

Why Bush Tucker Plants?

Bush tucker (or “tucka”) plants are the local heroes not just in your garden but also on the dining table,  thanks to their edible and often nutritious bits like leaves, fruits, seeds, and roots. There is a long history of use that goes back thousands of years. Here are some great reasons to share some bush food love  in your veggie garden:

New Tastes

Bush native plants introduce you to a world of new flavours. From the tangy kick of bush tomatoes to the salty crunch of samphire, your taste buds are in for a treat!

Easy to Grow

Many of these plants are hardy and adapted to our local soils and climates. They’re not fussy, making your gardening journey a breeze.

Health Benefits

Packed with beneficial nutrients, bush tucker plants are a healthy choice. It’s nature’s way of packing nutrition right into your garden.

Water-Savvy

With their native roots, many bush food plants are drought-tolerant. They don’t ask for much water, which is a thumbs up for conserving this precious resource.

Pest-Resistant

These native buddies have grown alongside local pests for ages and have built up a good defence. That means fewer headaches dealing with pesky bugs and more time enjoying your garden.

Getting Started in Victoria

Victoria’s climate is a welcoming spot for many bush tucker plants. The mild winters transitioning to warm or hot summers create a good environment for these native plants. Understanding Victoria’s climate and how it interacts with these plants is the first step in your bush food gardening journey.

Local Climate

Victoria’s climate varies from milder coastal areas to different temperature ranges inland, making it suitable for a variety of bush tucker plants. Whether you’re near the coast or further inland, the climate in Victoria is conducive for these native plants to grow well. Each region has its unique climate characteristics that can be matched with the right bush tucker plants to ensure successful growth.

Soil Preparation

Good soil is the foundation of a healthy garden. Preparing your soil with organic matter and ensuring good drainage is crucial for your bush tucker plants to thrive. Mixing in organic matter helps improve soil structure and provides the nutrients these plants need to grow healthy and strong. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging, which can be harmful to your plants.

Watering

Bush tucker plants are generally low-maintenance when it comes to watering, especially once they are well established. Many of these plants are drought-tolerant and don’t require a lot of water to thrive. This characteristic makes them a smart choice for water conservation in your garden. However, regular watering, especially in the initial stages, helps them to settle in and grow well. As they grow, these plants will require less water, making them easy to care for while also being a water-wise choice for your garden.

Top Bush Tucker Plants for Victorian Gardens

Now, let’s meet some bush tucka stars that can shine bright in your Victorian garden:

Warrigal Greens

Warrigal Greens, also known as New Zealand spinach, are a sturdy and easy-to-grow choice for any garden. These plants are low-maintenance and adapt well to different conditions, which is great for both new and experienced gardeners. The leaves are similar to regular spinach but have a bit of a tangy kick. They grow in a sprawling manner and can reach a height of about 30-40 cm with a spread of up to 1m or more if left unpruned.

These greens aren’t picky about where they grow. They do well in a variety of soils, and once they’re settled in, they don’t need a lot of water to stay healthy. It’s a good idea to start them in a sunny spot with well-draining soil to give them the best start.

When it comes to eating, the leaves are where it’s at. They can be used in salads, stir-fries or anywhere you’d normally use spinach. Just wash them well, chop them up, and they’re ready to go. They bring a nice green colour and a fresh, earthy flavour to your dishes.

Saltbush

Saltbush is a strong, easy-going plant that is well-suited for dry or saline soil conditions, showcasing grey leaves that give a silvery touch to your garden. It’s a tough shrub that can handle dry spells well, showing off a dense foliage that can grow up to 1 to 2 metres in height and a similar spread.

One of the practical benefits of having saltbush in your garden is its ability to help with erosion control. It’s good at holding the soil together, which is especially useful in areas prone to erosion.

Now, let’s talk about the tasty side of saltbush. The leaves are edible and have a unique salty flavour. They are also nutritious, rich in minerals and antioxidants. You can use them in a variety of ways in the kitchen. They can be blanched, sautéed, or even used as a wrap for meats. You can toss them in salads or use them to stuff poultry. If you dry the leaves, they can be used as a herb or a salty sprinkle on your dishes, acting as a substitute for common salt or seaweed.

Bush Tomatoes

Bush tomatoes, or kutjera, are a nifty little addition to your garden. Unlike your standard tomatoes, these are smaller in size but pack a punch with a sweet, tangy flavour. They bring a unique taste, something different to your usual tomato dishes. 

Growing bush tomatoes is pretty straightforward. They like a sunny spot in the garden and well-draining soil, much like their common tomato cousins. When they start to fruit, you’ll notice they are smaller, often about the size of a grape. They turn a bright red colour when ripe, indicating they are ready to be picked and enjoyed.

In the kitchen, kutjera can be used in a variety of dishes. They add a sweet and tangy kick to sauces, chutneys, and traditional Australian recipes. If a recipe calls for kutjera and you don’t have any on hand, sun-dried tomatoes could be used as a substitute. However, keep in mind that while sun-dried tomatoes bring a similar intense flavour, they won’t quite capture the unique taste of kutjera.

These little tomatoes can replace common fresh or sun-dried tomatoes in recipes where a more intense, tangy flavour is desired. They work well in salads, salsas, and sauces, lending a different taste profile to the dish. 

Samphire

Samphire, often referred to as sea asparagus or sea pickle, is a crunchy, salty plant that could add a unique flavour to your garden and your plate. Growing to about 20 to 30 cm in height, it’s a modest plant with a big personality. The fleshy stems are what you’re after; they bring a salty, marine-like flavour to dishes.

In the kitchen, you can use Samphire much like you would use capers or olives. It goes great in salads, providing a crunchy texture and a salty kick. It’s also a fantastic side dish, lightly steamed or sautéed, maybe with a bit of garlic and butter.

Growing Samphire is pretty easy-going. It loves well-draining, sandy soil and plenty of sunshine. It’s used in coastal areas, so it doesn’t mind salty conditions. Once it’s established in your garden, it doesn’t need much watering, which is a bonus during those drier periods. It’s a low-maintenance plant that adds a unique flavour to your garden both visually and culinarily. One of the key things to remember when growing Samphire is to avoid waterlogged conditions. It likes its soil well-draining, so ensure it’s planted in a spot where it won’t be sitting in water. 

Karkalla

Meet Karkalla, also known as pigface, a sturdy little plant that brings a touch of the coast to your garden. Standing at about 10-30 cm tall, it’s a low-growing plant with a spreading habit, perfect for ground cover or even hanging baskets. With its fleshy, succulent leaves and small but bright pink flowers, it’s a modest plant with a cheerful demeanour.

Growing Karkalla is pretty straightforward – sandy soil, a sunny spot, and occasional watering, especially during dry spells. It’s a hardy plant, tolerating salty winds and sandy soils, making it a great choice for coastal gardens or those drier, sunnier spots in your yard.

Now, let’s talk about the tasty side of Karkalla. Its leaves and fruit have a slightly sour taste which can add a zesty kick to your salads and stir-fries. They have a crunchy texture which holds well whether you decide to toss them in a salad or give them a quick stir-fry. And if you’re looking to replace capers or olives in a recipe, Karkalla could be a unique substitute.

Wrapping Up

Diving into bush tucker gardening in Victoria is a straightforward yet rewarding venture. It’s all about getting to know a variety of native plants that not only change up your vegie garden but also bring new flavours to your table. As these plants have adapted to the Australian soil and climate over thousands of years, they require less fuss and water than many common garden varieties, making them a smart choice for a low-maintenance garden.

At Diaco’s, we’re all about making gardening a joyful and rewarding experience. Our friendly team is here to guide you on your bush tucker gardening journey, sharing tips on the best plants for Victorian climates, how to care for them, and even a few recipe ideas to get you started. So, let’s explore some bush tucker plants for beginners together and discover how they can add a new dimension to your garden and your plate.

Anyone who has grown Citrus Trees in Australia will likely be familiar with the dreaded gall wasp, and the unsightly tree galls that they leave in their wake every Spring and Summer. 

These native insects have developed a reputation for being very hard to get rid of. The huge galls that they leave behind are often ugly and misshapen, and they have the potential to cause damage to your beloved citrus tree in the long run. 

What’s even worse is that the Gall Wasp traps sold in gardening and hardware stores are not particularly effective at eradicating these pests. Thankfully, there is one simple method you can use instead that gets you fast, easy results without much fuss. 

Read on to find out more about where Gall Wasps come from, how to easily remove an infestation from your tree, and how to prevent the pesky things from moving in to begin with. 

Gall Wasps Are A Widespread Problem In Australia

Gall Wasps (or Bruchophagus Fellis) originated in northern Australia, where the insects were naturally hosted by native Finger Limes and other local citrus varieties.

After citrus trees like lemons, oranges and grapefruit were introduced to the country, the Gall Wasp slowly spread south to New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and even Western Australia. Now they are a widespread problem – particularly around suburban Melbourne, where citrus trees are highly popular in the warmer months.

At around 2-3mm in length, these tiny black wasps incubate their young inside the branches of your citrus trees during Spring and Summer. The tree will detect the growing wasp larvae as foreign bodies and try to reject them, causing the branch to break out in lumps called galls. This stresses your tree out, leading to weak branch growth and poorer fruit yields.

When the wasps hatch, they’ll drill themselves out of the gall and leave it pockmarked with tiny little holes everywhere. The shiny little nuisances then go on to breed and lay more eggs near where they’ve just hatched, spreading the infestation further throughout your citrus tree.

Gall Wasp Traps Are Not Effective.

As the problem has become more widespread, gardening and hardware stores have taken to selling Gall Wasp traps, usually in the form of sticky sheets or cylinders that hang from the tree and function like a traditional fruit fly trap. Unfortunately, they also trap and kill the helpful pollinating insects as well, potentially doing more harm than good to your citrus tree.

In our experience, these traps have proved totally ineffective in actually preventing wasps from moving in. This isn’t a controversial opinion either – many professional gardeners are outspoken in their dislike of Gall Wasp traps and there is little evidence they work at all.

Pruning Gall Branches

Another common method in the past has been to prune and dispose of any gall-afflicted branches before the wasps hatch. This is an effective method if you only have one or two heavily infested branches, but it’s useless if they are all through your tree. Cutting off too many branches is not viable – it leads to less fruit and gradually weakens the tree overall.

This Simple Trick Effectively Kills Gall Wasp Infestations.

Thankfully, gardeners have recently discovered that there is actually a much easier and more effective way to wipe out Gall Wasp infestations in your citrus trees.

We picked this trick up from a very informative ABC Gardening video a few years ago, and it’s called the ‘Peel and Reveal’ method. In our experience, it works like an absolute charm. All it takes is some keen observation skills and a sharp knife – even a potato peeler will do!

When you spot a gall on your citrus tree, use your blade to peel off one side of the active gall. You can also look for the most swollen section of the gall and slice it open right down the middle. This will ‘reveal’ the unhatched larvae and expose them to the outside air, killing the whole batch instantly and effectively.

No need for indiscriminate traps or heavy-handed pruning – it turns out killing Gall Wasps is really as simple as a quick cut. However, you’ll need to make sure you’re onto it right at the beginning of wasp season, usually around late Winter to early Spring. You should also make sure not to accidentally ringbark any of your branches, as that can do serious damage.

Gall Wasp Prevention

While the Peel-and-Reveal method is a great way to deal with galls as they appear, it can be better to try and prevent them from appearing in the first place. Following these tips can help to prevent you from creating the perfect Gall Wasp conditions in your citrus tree:

1. Avoid Pruning or Over-Fertilising in Winter: Pruning your trees heavily in late Winter will lead to soft new growth just as Spring is beginning. The wasps love to burrow into this soft moist wood, and it creates perfect conditions for laying eggs. Overfeeding or over-fertilising at this time can also have similar effects on growth, and the extra moisture and nutrient build-up may only attract insects further.

2. Coat Your Tree in Horticultural Oil: Another method that gardeners use to fend off Gall Wasps is oil. Coating the new growth in your tree with a plant-safe oil product from July through to August is thought to block the female wasps from laying their eggs in the soft wood. White Oil is a popular solution to this problem, and there is some suggestion that Eco-Oil may also help by attracting the Gall Wasp’s natural predators, which are even bigger wasps. Yep, lovely stuff.

3. Warn Thy Neighbor! Citrus trees are everywhere in Melbourne. Growing your own citrus is a tradition for the large Greek and Italian migrant populations, and the climate is absolutely perfect for it here. However, this abundance is also what gives the Gall Wasp such a foothold. If you notice a tree is infested, tell your neighbours to check their trees as well and prevent the wasps from moving straight back in. If you work together, you may manage to remove them from the entire area!

Other Common Citrus Pests To Watch Out For

If you follow these prevention tips and are quick to destroy any galls as they appear, you should be well prepared to defend your precious Citrus Trees over Spring and Summer.

Unfortunately, Gall Wasps are not the only pests you will have to look out for. Here are some quick tips for dealing with the other irritating pests that can affect citrus trees in Australia. You can check out this free, in-depth guide from Citrus Australia for even more detailed info.

Scale Insects

These annoying pests are one of the main pests that citrus trees deal with. Scale will settle on the leaves and fruit, and if left unchecked, it can seriously damage or even kill your tree. The presence of scale can also cause ants to move in and do further damage to fruit.

You can identify scale by the blemishes on fruit and leaves, and it can be easily treated with a White Oil Spray. In mild cases, you can use an alcohol-soaked cotton swab and pick off the insects by hand. In the long term, native plants that attract predator insects can help to prevent scale insect populations from growing out of control.

Mites

These tiny insects are a problem all across Australia, and they can cause settle on the fruit and leaves of your citrus tree. You should check vigilantly for mites from Spring through Autumn when these insects are most active. 

You can usually find them on the underside of the leaf, though you will probably need a magnifying glass to see them at all. A mite is so small that it damages leaves & fruit by biting through the plant cell wall and sucking out the contents – it’s creepy stuff.

To treat a mite infestation, either spray your tree with an extra-strong hose blast or wipe down infested areas of the tree with a soap mixture. Mix 1 tsp of soap with 1L of water, then spray the undersides of the affected leaves with it to make sure all the mites are covered.

Wash off the solution 2-3 hours later, and remove all of the soap residues from the foliage surface to avoid any leaf burn. Repeat this process every 4-7 days until the mites are gone.

Queensland Fruit Fly

Like Gall Wasps, these insects have been a huge problem in northern Australia for a long time. Unfortunately, there is evidence that they have recently spread to Melbourne and are causing headaches for both commercial and home gardeners, particularly between October and May when they are most active.

It pays to be vigilant against fruit flies as they can be quite devastating to your citrus tree. If you remove any affected fruit, be sure to seal it in a plastic bag before disposing of it in order to kill off any potential larvae. Netting your trees can also add extra protection. Agriculture Victoria has recently posted a useful & comprehensive guide for how to deal with these fruit flies in your home garden. 


Citrus trees are one of our favourite plants to grow, and a lot of love and care goes into them over the years. It can be stressful or even devastating to see your beloved tree affected by pests, which is why it’s so important to know how to get rid of them quickly and effectively!

Hopefully, this guide has given you the confidence to deal with infestations of Gall Wasps or other common citrus pests if they happen to occur in your garden. If you’re having trouble with a specific pest, or you have any garden questions at all, you can ask one of our friendly gardening experts for advice. They’ll be more than happy to help you figure it out.

Getting out in the garden over the Summer holidays is a great way to enjoy the warmer weather and join your plants in soaking up that sunny vitamin D.

In Australia, these hot months are typically a quieter time of the year for planting schedules, though you can check out our guide on What To Grow This Summer for some inspiration on what to plant.

Otherwise, it’s the perfect time to catch up on garden maintenance and prepare yourself for the coming year. We’ve put together a list of seven important Summer gardening jobs that we recommend to help prepare your garden for Autumn. 

Before you start: One thing to remember with all of these jobs is that it’s important to start early in the day and wear adequate sun protection. Garden work is good wholesome fun, but there’s no need to do it in the glaring afternoon sun! You should always take it nice and easy. 

1. Weeding

This one isn’t much fun, so let’s get it out of the way early – summertime is weeding time. These pesky invaders go into overdrive in the warmer months, and it’s important to eliminate all of your weeds before the Autumn growing season begins. Not only are they unsightly, but they steal precious nutrients from your plants at a time when they’re needed the most.

To prevent a comeback, be sure to pull out the entire root system when weeding. Chopping off the top with your whipper-snipper won’t be enough to stop the plant from coming back quickly. Using a simple handheld weeding tool can help save you some hard work, while also eradicating the weed’s root system more effectively.

Weeding can be tough, so it’s important to start early in the day and take breaks as often as necessary. If you find that you actually have a lot of weeds to pull, there’s no need to do it all in one day! Using a high-quality weedkiller can also save you some time and effort, though it’s important to take some safety precautions to protect your other plants.

2. Deadheading and Pruning

For many plants, late Summer is also the perfect time of year for some routine pruning maintenance, though it’s important not to cut back too hard during the heat. Generally, there are three types of pruning you’ll be doing at this time of year:

  • Deadheading Perennials. For Spring & Summer flowers that come back every year, cutting off or ‘deadheading’ the spent flowers will help the plant redistribute nutrients to new growth over winter, allowing them to grow back stronger next season. It also prevents seeds from forming.  Daisies and Dianthus can both benefit from this in late Summer, and it will stop them from spreading too vigorously via seed transmission.
  • Tip Pruning The practice of tip pruning, also known as ‘pinching off’ plants, involves removing just the tip of any growing shoots as they appear. This encourages multiple new shoots to grow from the cut, which leads to denser plant growth.

    It’s a particularly popular practice with flowers. You can snip the top with secateurs or simply pinch with your finger and thumb! Pinching Marigolds and other similar flowers at the start of their growing season will help to create bushier, fuller flower displays.
  • Trimming Tougher hedge plants like Syzygium will likely need a lot of trimming during Summer, as this is their growing season. Hedges will typically start to look very bushy if they are not trained and trimmed at least monthly. Trim them less if you are looking to increase bulk and size and are not as worried about neat aesthetics.

As you can see, these are all very light forms of pruning. Again, any hard or heavy pruning should be avoided during hot weather, as your plants will be using any available nutrients and water to simply survive the heat. Save any serious pruning for later in the year.

3. Watering Citrus Trees and Other Summer Pants.

If you’ve planted new Summer plants, it’s important to make sure that they’re getting enough water during sunny periods of no rain. Planting Citrus Trees is particularly popular at this time of year, especially in the Melbourne Metro area where our Diacos stores are located.

While citrus trees do love the warmer soil of Summer, growing citrus trees requires a lot of watering to help them reach maturity and avoid drying out in the heat. It’s good to water deeply at least once a week; this regular, thorough soaking will be more effective than lots of brief, shallow watering. You want to let the roots drink deeply to store enough moisture.

Other popular Summer plants, like Hydrangeas, will also benefit from some extra care and watering during the hottest temperature peaks. Thankfully, late February tends to see a few late Summer showers or thunderstorms. This can prove a welcome rejuvenation for your thirsty garden – and a welcome break from you holding the hose!

Hot Tip: Use Mulch To Retain Moisture

If you find that you’re struggling to keep up with regular watering, adding a layer of Mulch can prevent evaporation and help your soil to retain more moisture over longer periods.

It will also help to eliminate weeds, pests and grasses from encroaching on your tree’s space. When mulching, always leave an un-mulched gap around the base of the tree. This will help your tree to breathe and avoid causing any accidental root rot. 

Most organic mulches are suitable for citrus trees. Woodchips or bark will provide good moisture retention, whilst something like lucerne or composted leaf litter will decompose faster over time, providing your citrus tree with extra nutrients for growing delicious fruit.

4. Rotate Seasonal Food Crops

Speaking of tasty homegrown food, preparing your herb & vegetable garden for a new season has got to be one of the most satisfying gardening tasks out there. 

As you come towards the end of Summer, it’s time to start harvesting any warm-weather crops like tomato, basil and lettuce. Not sure if there’s more food to come? Just pick it all anyway! Regularly picking ripe fruit & veg extends the growing season by encouraging your plant to start the growth cycle again, keeping it producing for longer and longer

Late Summer is the time to make an early start on cool-weather crops – think Kale, Leek, Silverbeet and Spinach. Once the nights begin to cool, you can also plant Broccoli or Spring Onions. Herbs like Oregano and Rosemary can be planted from as early as mid-January, whilst Parsley and Chives can be planted in March as Summer ends.

Many of these cool-weather vegetables will reach fruition just in time for the cold weather to begin. You’ll feel great when you get to enjoy your fresh homegrown ingredients in hearty, soul-warming autumnal dishes.

5. Keep Pots Cool – Especially Terracotta

When the temperature starts to reach sweltering heights, plants in pots tend to do it a bit tougher than their garden-dwelling friends. This is because pots heat up in the sun, gradually increasing the temperature of the soil within and raising the risk of cooking your plant’s roots.

This is obviously not good news, and it’s a particular problem for Terracotta Pots. This is because this ancient style of Mediterranean pot is made of very porous clay, which absorbs more water than other materials. This can leave the soil drier than in other pots, so it’s important to water & soak your Terracotta frequently to help keep moisture levels stable.

Cheap black plastic pots are by far the most susceptible to heat damage. They are not ideal for outdoor Summer use, or even indoors by a window where the glass can magnify the sun’s heat. Watering the pots down can also be helpful here, but it’s not a long-term solution and it’s best to avoid keeping plants in black plastic pots for long periods if you can.

Another helpful tactic for cooling down pot plants is to add a few centimetres of Mulch. As in the garden bed, this can help trap moisture from watering and insulate the soil from sunlight, keeping the overall soil temperatures much lower.

6. Manage Your Lawn, But Don’t Overdo It

If you’ve got a lawn or a grassed area, you’ll know that it grows like absolute crazy over Summer. This is the natural growth season for most lawn grasses, and you’re likely to find yourself mowing a bit more frequently during this period – perhaps around once a week or fortnight.

However, don’t let yourself be tempted to trim your grass right down to nothing to save yourself a few mowing sessions. Keeping lawn grass too short during the growing season can disrupt its natural cycle and lead to a less resilient lawn. Instead, it’s best to tolerate it being a little shaggier than usual over the warmer months, allowing it to store more nutrients and gain a bit of momentum ahead of the winter.

Don’t panic if you see your lawn start to turn brown and crispy either. Unless it is also dying off in patches, then this is just its natural way of conserving energy during drought spells. It should tend to come back green and strong once conditions become more favourable.

7. Start Planning

Finally, it’s time to look to the year ahead. A little bit of planning in late Summer and early Autumn can help you to avoid a bare or depressing garden during the Winter months.

This is a fantastic time of year to plant many popular shrubs and flowers. Geraniums, Tulips and Black Magic Banksias are all beautiful flowers that do especially well when planted in early to mid-Autumn. Ornamental Grasses are another highly popular choice at this time of year as they are resilient to most weather conditions.

If you’re not sure what kind of plants will suit your garden, now is the time to do some research and plan ahead before it begins to get too cold and wet.

If you’d like a little help deciding, then why not ask one of our friendly gardening experts. They’re always happy to offer some expert advice on what you can grow.


By following these seven easy Summer gardening tips, you should be well on your way to growing and maintaining the perfect Autumn garden. It’s a great way to start the year right. 

All of the plants we’ve mentioned in this guide are available in the Diacos Online Store, as well as plenty of helpful gardening supplies like Mulch, Fertiliser and much more.

Ornamental Grasses have become increasingly popular in Australian gardens. Their unique textures and shapes can bring elegance and sophistication into your garden design, and they’re an easy and low-maintenance plant species that any gardener can grow at home.

We’ve put together this comprehensive guide to help you incorporate these amazing plants into your own garden. We’ll talk about the best ways to use these plants in your landscape design and how to cultivate the right conditions for them to grow and flourish. 

Grasses and Strap Leaf Plants

Before we begin, it’s also worth familiarising yourself with another term: strap leaf or ‘strappy’ plants. These plants have long, thin strap-like leaves that grow together in clumps. While their growth habit is highly similar to grass, they typically lack the hollow ‘culm’ stems of a true grass species (although ‘sedges’, a variety of strappy plant, also have culm stems.)

Many of the most popular ornamental grasses, including Lomandra, Dianella and Carex, are technically not grasses and are actually strap-leaf plants. However, this botanical distinction is more scientific than anything else –  Lomandra is even popularly named ‘Basket Grass’.

Because their growth habits and care instructions are so similar, most gardening stores will group grasses and strap leaf plants together – including in our own Diacos Online Store.

Meanwhile, all of the general landscaping & care advice discussed in this guide can also be easily applied to most of the popular strappy plants available for home gardening.

Using Ornamental Grasses in Your Garden Design

While you might not expect grass to have the ‘wow’ factor of trees or exotic flowers, it’s quite common to hear gardeners refer to these plants as the ‘quiet achievers’ or ‘unsung heroes’ of garden landscaping, and there are plenty of very good reasons for this!

Well-placed grasses can add elegance, flow, and form to your garden in ways both subtle and striking. There are a lot of clever options for incorporating these plants into your garden design, and they can be especially useful for filling the tight and tricky spots in your yard. 

Below, we’ll talk about some of our favourite creative ways to use ornamental grasses:

Borders and Edging

Grasses are a perfect border plant, as their versatile nature makes them easy to plant in tight spaces and alongside most other plants. Their clumps of thin, delicate leaves will work to soften harder edges like fencelines or stone paths. Planting beautiful flowering grasses like Kangaroo Paw or Liriope Monroe will create walls of colour during the blooming season.

Shorter grasses can make neat & attractive borders around areas like patios, paths or garden beds, while longer grasses are highly effective when planted as privacy screens. There are a dizzying array of colours to choose from, even when selecting non-flowering grasses, from deep reds and purples to lush greens and shimmering golds. 

Creating Movement and Flow

Ornamental grasses can add a lot of drama to the garden as the wind gently tussles their many leaves. Longer grass plants like Fountain Grass or Lomandra Longifolia will dance and sway on the breeze, bringing a calming sense of movement and flow to your garden.

This calming effect can work particularly well when incorporated with Asian Zen Garden elements like water features, boulders or pebbles or a central ornamental tree. When placed right, they can influence visual flow by cleverly directing the eye around the garden.

Backgrounds and Foregrounds

Grasses can also make spectacular backdrops or foregrounds for other displays. While planting grass as an edge or boundary is more about creating structure and definition, this technique is all about experimenting with different textures, colours and contrasting shades to create interesting, multilayered garden displays.

The neutral tones and dense soft foliage of grasses tend to complement most other garden plants particularly well, and there is an opportunity here to go as far as your imagination can take you. For instance, the dense linear lines of a flowering grass like Agapanthus can have interesting visual effects, drawing the eye to the area and clearly highlighting the foreground.

Don’t be afraid to mix multiple different grass types or try out unique and creative layouts, as you’d be surprised at how well it can all come together! Some grasses, like Phormium, have a wide range of differently coloured variants available to choose from.

Planting Practical

Grass adds more than just visual appeal to a garden, and its many practical properties are part of the reason it has become such a popular choice for gardeners. As mentioned, the general hardiness of these plants allows them to grow in tight spots, and they’re a highly effective ground cover for suppressing weed growth. They grow fast and are hard to kill.

Their dense root systems are also beneficial to the soil, which is something we’ll talk about later in a bit more detail. Finally, flowering native grasses like Acacia Cognata, Kangaroo Paw or even Pennisetum Rubrum (Fountain Grass) are especially appealing to wildlife.

Even just a small amount of Australian grass in your yard will attract beautiful native birdlife and beneficial native pollinators to your garden. What’s not to love about that!

Caring for Ornamental Grass

As well as their aesthetic appeal, these plants also have a great reputation for being low-maintenance and easy to look after. If you want to grow a garden that isn’t going to take too much time and energy to maintain, planting Ornamental Grass is a fantastic option.

Grasses tend to originate from arid deserts, steppes or plains environments, where drought conditions are common and soil is poor. This is especially true of Native Australian grasses and strappy plants, which are very popular in Melbourne and make up a large selection of our range at Diacos. Most can generally be planted at any time of the year.

Still, every plant is unique and it’s always worth checking the care instructions for your specific plant. Grasses from other climate zones may potentially have very different needs.

Watering

In general, most of the grasses and strappy plants we stock at Diacos are very drought resistant and won’t need too much water once they are established. However, young grasses will need to be watered every second day, especially if you have planted them during the dry summer months.

Once the grass begins to grow steadily and spread, it will have started developing a healthy root system. You can begin to water less, gradually dropping down to once or twice a week. During the wetter part of the year, regular rain should be more than enough to keep your grass happy. 

Be sure that drainage is adequate and do not overwater, as most grasses will not tolerate having soggy roots. For this reason, you should also avoid areas that are exposed to water run-off from drains or other sources. For instance, people often plant grass in driveways, however in many cases this area may receive too much run-off water to be a viable spot.

Spacing

When planting, ensure your grasses have plenty of space as they will need room to spread out and grow healthily. Small grass plants should be planted around 30cm apart, whilst taller plants can sometimes need up to a metre of space to thrive..

A commonly used rule-of-thumb is to space plants at around half of their maximum height. For example, a 1.5m grass would need 75cm of space around it. It’s also okay to plant closer together for a more tightly packed look, but you may get less growth overall.

Soil & Fertiliser

These tough little plants also aren’t that fussy about the soil they’re in, though good drainage is absolutely essential. Dense, soggy clay soil is the least likely to successfully support a grass plant, and Australian Natives are especially likely to prefer loose and rocky soil. 

One upside of most grass plants is that their root systems are strong, fibrous and typically very dense. They can often grow to surprising depths, and they play an important role in repairing soil. The networks of fast-spreading, dense roots bind your soil together to store nutrients and improve drainage. As grasses are tolerant of most conditions, planting them can actually be a great way to remedy loose soil or improve difficult conditions.

Most grasses will not need any fertiliser, though it’s okay to fertilise annually if they are performing poorly or struggling to get enough nutrients. Add a slow-release liquid fertiliser, ideally in Spring as the new growth is beginning to emerge. Avoid fertilising in the heat of summer or during the peaks of winter.

Sunlight

Finally, full sun is the preferred condition for most grasses and strap leaf plants. Don’t worry too much about sheltering them from the elements either – they are tolerant of salt, harsh winds, humidity and even frost. 

If you are specifically looking to fill a shady area with ground cover, Liriope is known as a good shade-tolerant grass and should continue to grow well in partial shade. We stock many interesting varieties of this hardy grass, including Royal Purple, Monroe White, Evergreen Giant and Summer Beauty.

Other popular grasses are still likely to survive in a partially shaded area, but they probably won’t reach quite the same potential as they would in a full-sun environment.

Dividing Ornamental Grasses Annually

Dividing established grasses is something that our customers often ask us about. Dividing a tall clump of grass can stop it from growing too large and unwieldy. 

You’ll know it’s time to divide when a hollow starts to form in the middle of your foliage clump, usually around 2-3 years of growth. The best time to divide grasses is in late Winter or early Spring before any Summer growth begins. 

To divide, gently dig up your clump and use a sharp shovel to split it in half. If it is particularly large, you can quarter it or cut several root sections off of the side. Cut out any old canes from the previous years’ growth and expose the new roots shooting through. This ABC Gardening Video offers a handy visual guide to the process.

The practice of dividing allows you to propagate your plant and plant the divided section elsewhere in your garden. Replant at least one section of the divided clump in the original garden bed, and plant the others wherever you desire!

If you are keen to divide your grass plant but have nowhere else that you want to grow it, why not ‘pass the grass’ and gift it in a pot to a friend or neighbour? They will be sure to thank you for this beautiful new addition to their garden


This has been our comprehensive guide to ornamental grasses. Once you understand how to incorporate this easy, low-maintenance plant into a smart & sophisticated garden design, there is simply no better time to get out there and start growing!
You can check out our huge range of Grasses and Strappy Plants online or in one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres. Still got a specific question about grass that you need answering? Ask one of our helpful gardening experts and they will be more than happy to help you out.

If you’re relatively new to gardening, the world of potting mixes and soils can feel a little overwhelming. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, it can be tempting to assume they’re all pretty similar or to pick one almost at random.

However, there is a lot of variation between potting mixes, and they’re certainly not created equal. Choosing the right potting mix can often be the difference between your plants living and dying.

In this guide, we’ll help you understand the basics of Potting Mix and soil to help you make sure you’re choosing the right blend for your plants. 

We’ll talk about what a high-quality potting mix should contain, and the science that goes into understanding how potting mixes work. We’ll also talk about different potting mixes for different types of plants, and a few things you should always avoid in a mix. 

What Is Potting Mix?

Potting mix is a combination of different minerals and organic materials that are beneficial to the growth of your plants. Most potting mixes will contain soil as part of this mix, and are sometimes referred to interchangeably as ‘potting soils’. Other mixes are totally soil-free.

The goal of a potting mix is to replicate the ideal soil conditions for particular groups of plants. This is not just relevant for potted plants, but also for outdoor garden beds, where the natural backyard soil conditions may be nutrient-deficient, unsuitable or unpredictable.

Generally, there are three basic types of soil that plants will grow in:

  • Sandy Soil is loose, gritty and will fall apart in your hand. It’s light and drains very fast, but it doesn’t retain nutrients well.
  • Clay Soil is tightly packed, heavy and firm. It holds water and nutrients easily but it drains poorly.
  • Rich Composted Soil is nutrient-rich and contains organic matter (i.e. compost or loam). It’s slightly loose, fertile and drains just right. It should crumble gently in your hand when poked.

While plants from some specific regions will prefer sandy or clay soils, most plants are looking for rich and fertile soil that is relatively loose, drains easily and contain a good amount of decomposing organic matter for extra nutrients. Therefore, most premium general-use potting mixes are formulated to recreate this fertile & loamy soil environment.

What Should a Premium Potting Mix Look Like? 

A good-quality potting mix should be formulated to contain the perfect balance of different nutrients in order to encourage healthy plant growth. 

The combination of ingredients in a general-purpose potting mix also shouldn’t adversely change the soil acidity, unless that is the desired effect. Finally, a premium mix should also contain a mix of inorganic matter to help loosen up compacted soil and improve drainage. Volcanic rocks like Perlite or Vermiculite are highly popular drainage additives.

When it comes to organic materials, some are more highly prized than others for their various properties. For instance, Peat Moss is considered a premium soil additive as it absorbs a lot of moisture and then decomposes extra slowly, allowing the soil to hold onto water and nutrients for much longer. It’s also slow to grow and farm, making it a rare material.

Other plant-specialised potting mixes  – like mixes designed for fruit trees – may decide to use higher amounts of ingredients that are full of useful secondary nutrients, like Calcium and Magnesium. It’s not always as simple as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ potting mix  – it’s all about thoughtfully combining ingredients to perfectly meet the needs of the plant at hand.

The Science of Potting Mix and Soil Ingredients

There are several natural elements in soil, many of which are absorbed by plants and converted into available nutrients. Their naturally occurring levels can be supplemented by adding fertiliser or decomposing organic matter like compost or manure to the soil. You’ll want to look for ingredients that contain these important elements when you’re choosing a potting mix for your garden.

NPK

Of the chemical elements naturally present in your soil, the major ones that affect plant health include Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). The levels of these three nutrients are called the NPK Ratio, which is outlined on every bag of potting mix. They’re also the key ingredients in most mainstream fertilisers.

All three of these nutrients are naturally produced when bacteria break down the organic matter in potting mix, compost or soil. Together, NPK plays a highly important role in fueling the photosynthesis process and aiding the growth of leaves, root systems, new shoots and flowers.

When choosing a potting mix for its NPK ratio, consider that some plants may have different requirements. For instance, too much nitrogen will cause some flowering plants to divert energy towards growing foliage instead. Meanwhile, some Australian Native Plants (like Banksia) are sensitive to phosphorus. It’s always a good idea to research your specific plant before choosing a potting mix.

Secondary and Trace Elements

Aside from NPK, there are many other elements present in soil and potting mix that can contribute to plant health. The ones that are required in larger quantities – Sulphur (S), Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) – can be thought of as Secondary Elements. Other elements – like Iron, Zinc or Calcium –  are only needed in trace amounts. Adding more than that trace amount can often cause negative effects. 

These other nutrients aren’t as vital as NPK, but they still play important roles. Some are commonly found in premium potting mix, or in specialised potting mixes and fertilisers designed for different types of plants. Important secondary and trace elements include:

  • Calcium (Ca): Helps to build strength in cell walls, similar to how it functions in our own bones. Most soil will naturally have good calcium levels, but acidic soils may be lacking.
  • Magnesium (Mg): Magnesium is a vital part of the chlorophyll particle, the key ingredient in the photosynthesis process. Trace quantities of Iron (Fe) and Manganese (Mn) are also required for similar reasons.
  • Sulphur (S): Helps to form proteins and is also involved in the production of chlorophyll. Adding Gypsum to soil can often improve sulphur levels.
  • Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn):  These minerals activate plant enzymes that help to keep leaves green and lush. Deficiencies can be common in highly acidic soils.
  • Boron (B): Helps to grow tissue in roots, shoots, flowers and fruits. It can be deficient in soils that are too alkaline, which can lead to soft, weak fruit and veggies.

Acidity

Wondering what we mean when we talk about alkaline and acidity? Well, the combination of these elements also contributes to one other important factor –  soil acidity. 

Soil acidity is measured on a pH scale, which counts backwards. Anything above 7pH is considered Alkaline, soil with a pH of 6 or less is Acidic, and a pH of 7 is Neutral. The lower the number, the more acidic the soil. This applies to potting mixes too. 

Different plants will have different acidity preferences, so it’s something you need to keep in mind. You can read more about soil acidity in our Guide to Garden Basics. If you’re interested in a deep dive, this scientific report covers the topic in comprehensive detail.

Diaco’s Premium Potting Mix

As you can probably tell, we have a lot to say about potting mix ingredients and their relative quality! To that end, our team of expert gardeners have used their combined knowledge to create our own Diacos Premium Potting Mix, a highly effective general-use potting soil formula that complies with all Australian standards for a premium-grade potting mix. 

It includes premium ingredients like sphagnum peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, and lava rock. These ingredients work together to aerate the soil, retain moisture, and provide essential nutrients for plant growth. It’s also made with slow-release fertiliser pellets that will feed your plants nutrients for up to 3 months – cutting down on the time you need to spend fertilising.

Finally, we’ve added a wetting agent to help the soil absorb water more easily, which is especially important during the hot summer days that we experience here in Melbourne.

A Guide to Buying Different Potting Mixes

Our Diaco’s premium blend is a fantastic choice for general use, but sometimes it’s a better idea to use a mix that’s been specifically designed for the type of plant you are growing. Here are some of the most popular specialised potting mixes that we stock in our online store: 

  • Australian Natives need potting mixes that are low in phosphorus. Australian soils are naturally low in this nutrient, and many popular native plants have adapted to this over time. This makes them extra sensitive to the high amounts found in mainstream potting mix and fertiliser. We stock this fantastic blend from Attunga Native Potting Mix that does a great job nurturing your natives.
  • Succulents are native to harsh, sandy environments. They tend to prefer a looser potting mix that contains a higher quantity of sandy soil, as well as rocks like Perlite. This provides lots of extra aeration and faster drainage, replicating the perfect semi-arid environment for succulents to thrive. Specialised Cacti and Succulent Mix can also be found in our store.
  • Fruit and Citrus Trees enjoy nutritious, loamy soil with great drainage. Typically, a fruit and citrus potting mix might include roughly equal parts of organic compost, sand, perlite (or similar), and peat moss to optimise drainage and nutrition. High-performing mixes like Grow Better’s Fruit and Citrus Potting Mix will also contain a slow-release fertiliser full of vital nutrients that help the fruit to grow.
  • Gardenia, Azalea and Camellia all prefer acidic soil. Therefore, an ideal potting mix for these popular plants will also need to maintain the correct pH levels. We stock a great Gardenia, Azalea and Camellia Potting Mix from Grow Better that contains the perfect blend of nutrients and trace elements to provide nutrition and maintain acidity. The addition of a rapid-soak wetting agent also helps to provide extra hydration. 

Potting Mixes to Avoid 

Finally, we’ll leave you with a few quick things to avoid. Yes, we did just say that it’s not always as simple as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ potting mixes – but there are definitely some red flags out there! You won’t find any of these issues in our store, but it’s always  good to know what to watch out for:

  • Uncertified Potting Mix.: Potting mix sold in Australia has to pass Minimum National Standards. If a brand of potting mix just looks a bit off, and you can’t find any evidence that it complies with these requirements, it may be worth giving it a miss.
  • ‘Super Cheap’ Potting Mix Healthy, good-quality soil additives cost gardening suppliers money to source or produce. If someone is selling a bag of potting mix at shockingly low prices – think around $5 or less – then it’s likely to be very low quality. It’s not worth the risk of damaging your plants!
  • Unclear Ingredients. Finally, if you’re not sure what’s in a potting mix, think twice before using it. NPK ratios and even secondary elements should be clearly labelled somewhere on the bag or at least in the store. If they aren’t, it’s a bit fishy. It’s best to avoid it as you don’t know the outcome it could have on your plants.

Understanding the difference between high-quality and low-quality potting mixes can help you to choose the right one for your garden. Ultimately, it will help you to grow stronger and healthier plants. Happy gardening!



Hopefully, this guide has helped to give you a better understanding of what goes into a potting mix, the differing quality between potting mixes, and the way that it all works.

If you’re not sure which Potting Mix to use in your garden, or you’d like to know more about our Diacos Premium Potting Mix, then just ask our friendly and helpful staff. When it comes to finding garden solutions, we’re always happy to help!

The sunniest time of the year is upon us. For many, the holiday season is a great time to get out and enjoy a bit of free time in the garden.

Some gardeners will try and tell you that Australian Summers are too hot for growing plants, and that it’s time to put the tools down – but not us! Instead, we reckon that you want your garden to look as lush and enticing as possible before all the BBQs and gatherings begin. 

There are plenty of plants that love to grow in hot or otherwise harsh conditions, including flowering plants, and you often wouldn’t expect it from how delicate they can look. Here are 7 of our favourite plants to grow in the Summer months:

1. Petunias

These gorgeous multicoloured flowers are easy to grow and they love the warmer weather. Petunias are annuals that start to bloom around early summer, once the sun has begun to warm up the soil to at least 15-20 degrees Celcius. Petunias will continue to produce a full bloom until the first frost of winter, providing you with months of joy in the garden.

These pretty and highly affordable flowers are a fantastic way to quickly add a burst of colour to your garden, especially when planting at the beginning of the blooming season. We also stock the Petunia Supertunia, a high-performing variety of Petunia that comes in a range of exciting colours, and Calibrachoa, a similar-looking perennial flower that is closely related.

Planting Petunias

Plant Petunias in fertile, well-drained soil that has been prepared with compost. They will grow in a garden bed but are also well-suited to pots. Water daily when the plants are still establishing – once they look healthy and mature, water semi-regularly to keep the soil moist. 

Adding fertiliser every 2-3 weeks can also assist with flower growth. You may see your flowers wilt away on scorching days (around 40 degrees) but there’s no need to stress. These tough plants are very tolerant of heat and humidity and will flower again as soon as it cools. Deadheading any spent flowers can also help to extend the bloom for a longer period.

2. Crepe Myrtle Trees (Lagerstroemia)

It’s rare for non-native ornamental trees to thrive during an Australian summer, but the flowering Lagerstroemia Tree – or ‘Crepe Myrtle’ Tree – loves the warm, dry conditions and the full sun.

These trees are highly versatile and can be kept small in pots or grown large in the garden, making them a great option for all sorts of different gardens. They can also provide some great Summer shade when allowed to grow tall!

These deciduous trees begin to bloom in early Summer before losing their foliage in a spectacular show of colour during Autumn. They have an incredibly delicate, multi-layered flower that looks almost like folded ornamental paper – hence the name. We also stock a stunning ‘Diamonds in The Dark Indica’ variety that produces the same delicate flowers in bold, fiery colours.

Planting Lagerstroemia

Lagerstroemia trees can be planted in fertile loamy soil with good drainage, any time from late Spring to early Summer. Planting later during the blooming season in mid-Summer is possible, but you will need to give your tree some extra water for a while. This will help it continue to produce flowers while it adapts to the conditions of its new home.

Otherwise, this is a pleasantly low-maintenance tree and will only need to be watered when the soil is dry. Annual fertilising in Spring can help with growth but it is not strictly necessary. Finally, this easygoing tree will also tend to take an attractive shape without much pruning. However, you’ll still need to prune back after planting if you’ve planted bare root – our Bare Root Tree Guide explains why.

3. Hydrangeas

This classic perennial flower is one of our most popular plants at this time of year. The dense flowering bulbs look beautiful as they sway gently in the wind and the glossy green foliage will bring a lush feel to your garden. Late spring to early Summer is prime Hydrangea planting season, with their flowers beginning to bloom en masse shortly afterwards.

Known for their ability to change colour based on the acidity of your soil, the Hydrangea’s cool shades of blue, white, pink and purple are soothing on a hot Summer afternoon. For something more intricate, we also stock the Hydrangea Lacecap variety. This gorgeous flowering shrub blooms with a ring of larger flowers around a cluster of smaller, semi-open flowerheads.

Planting Hydrangeas

Like many of the other plants on this list, Hydrangeas love fertile, loamy soil mixed with compost (around 10%). It’s important to make sure that drainage is good, as these plants will need lots of regular watering through Summer. Aim to always keep your soil moist, but don’t let it become soggy or soaked, as this can potentially cause rot or fungus to form.

Positioning your Hydrangea is important. Ideally, you want it to receive cool sunlight in the mornings and filtered shade in the afternoon when the summer sun is harsh. This flowering shrub is therefore a perfect fit for the dappled light of a tree canopy, and evergreen varieties can even survive in full shade. 

You also need to consider the wind – high winds may damage the flowers, but a light breeze is important to prevent any mould build-up in the flower buds. Finally, an annual dose of fertiliser in spring will provide all the extra nutrients that this plant needs to thrive.

For more detailed information on growing these beautiful flowers, check out our guide on How to Grow and Care for Hydrangeas

4. Citrus Trees

Citrus trees thrive in warm soil, making late Spring/early Summer a great time to plant a fruit tree in your garden. Fruit trees can make any home garden feel more wholesome and cozy, with their lush leaves, fresh juicy fruit and cool Summer shade. Growing a fruit tree will create memories that will last your family a lifetime. Not only will a citrus tree look fantastic in your garden, but it will provide you with plenty of delicious fresh fruit to eat and share.

Planting Citrus Trees

Citrus loves rich composted soil that has been warmed up by the sun and has great drainage. It’s a good idea to plant your fruit tree in late Spring or early Summer, as planting in the dry heat of mid-Summer may unfortunately shock or kill your tree. They have relatively shallow & fragile roots, so be sure to give them a bit of space when planting. 

You should water your tree twice weekly while it is young – once established, you can drop back to watering deeply once every few weeks. These trees can be fertilised as often as once a month, but take care not to feed the tree during flowering season or it may grow much less fruit as a result. Your tree may become gnarled and congested as it ages – don’t be shy about cutting back and pruning unattractive branches as desired.

5. Marigold

The Marigold is a beautiful annual flower that blooms all through the warmer months, and some varieties are even perennial. These bright yellow and orange flowers can add the perfect dash of colour to any garden, with a warm and sunny feel that’s hard to match. The flowers bloom in abundance, and can be used to make stunning flower garlands. 

Marigolds are also known for their ability to repel common garden pests like spider mites or whitefly. This makes them a perfect companion plant for Spring and Summer veggies like tomatoes, lettuce, kale or basil. Best of all, these flowers are low-cost and extremely low-maintenance. They’re something that any gardener can grow!

Planting Marigolds

As mentioned, these plants are very low-effort and are likely to survive in any soil. However, fertile loamy soil with good drainage will give the best results. They will enjoy full sun conditions, with a very high tolerance for dryness and heat, but will tolerate part shade. Plant 20-30cm apart and be sure to water in well.

Marigold care is about balance and not overdoing it. After planting, it’s important to water semi-regularly but not too often, usually once the top layer of soil has dried out. Otherwise, soggy soil and overwatering may cause your Marigolds to rot. During the flowering season, you can fertilise every 1-3 months with a liquid fertiliser to keep your flowers well-fed but not over-fertilised.

6. Lomandra

This hardy Australian native is an extremely tough little plant that’s perfect for the warmer weather. A native species of ornamental grass, Lomandra comes in many varieties and can survive harsh winters or dry Summer droughts with ease. It looks incredible when placed around borders, used as a low-edging plant, or layered in front of other native plants.

The long strap-like leaves can bring a sense of calm and serenity to your garden as they sway in the breeze. Your Lomandra will start to bloom spiky yellow flowers over Winter and Spring that emit a wonderful pleasant scent. This plant is affordable, low-maintenance and will look very elegant in the garden – what more could you want?

Planting Lomandra

The Lomandra is an incredibly low-effort plant that will survive in most conditions. It can be planted in any type of soil (including clay and sandy soils) and will tolerate any pH level. What’s more, it’s just as happy growing in a part-shade position as it is in a full-sun position. It really is that easy!

Adding fertiliser or mulch once a year, ideally in spring, can help to encourage further growth. Lomandra grass will only need occasional watering unless conditions are drought-like. You will see the tips of the grass blades start to turn brown if the plant is not getting enough water.

7. Bacopa

The Bacopa is a trailing perennial and a fantastic warm-season plant, with dozens of soft white, purple or pink-coloured flowers that begin blooming in late Spring and continue all the way through to Autumn. Bacopa is an old favourite amongst seasoned gardeners, but is perhaps not quite as well known as other plants on this list. These flowers can be planted in your garden in early Summer and enjoyed straight away.

Bacopa are trailing plants that grow very quickly, which makes them highly desirable as ground cover. Planting a Bacopa can be a great way to fill a garden bed quickly and stop other weeds and grasses from moving in. They also look stunning when used as edging borders along pathways, low fencelines or other plants.

Planting Bacopa

There are two conditions that this flower loves – sunshine and moisture. This plant is semi-aquatic in the wild and grows near bodies of water, so it’s important to water this one regularly and keep it moist. It likes heat so it will enjoy a full sun position, though if it is forecasted to be a particularly dry summer then a part shade area may offer more shelter.

Otherwise, the Bacopa is a versatile and easy plant to grow. Unlike other flowers on this list, it can be as fertilised as regularly as every 2-3 weeks to help with blooming. Deadheading any spent flowers can also assist younger plants to bloom longer. As a (very) fast-growing trailing plant, you may find that you want to lightly train or prune your Bacopa foliage occasionally to send it in the right direction!



These 5 colourful flowering plants are some of our favourite things to grow in a Summer garden. They’re attractive, affordable, and generally easy to plant and look after.

However, this is just the start of what you can grow in warmer weather. Citrus Trees, Succulents and Australian Natives are all wonderful plants that will generally enjoy the sunnier, drier conditions of Summer.

If you’ve got any gardening questions at all or you’d like to have a chat about what to grow in your garden this Summer, feel free to ask one of our Diacos gardening experts today. 

Magnolias have one of the most striking and beautiful blooms of any flower. The bold colours of the flowers – whether they are pink, purple, white or yellow – absolutely pop when set against the muted green foliage and bare branches of the Magnolia Tree.

Magnolia Trees

These gorgeous and delicate blooms smell incredible, with strong hints of lemon that calm the mind. There are over 200+ different Magnolias in the Magnoliaceae family, with many widely available for cultivation in gardens.

These ancient trees have been around for a stunning 95 million years, so they’ve had plenty of time to evolve in a myriad of different ways. Many scientists think it was the first flowering plant! This could be why the upright flowers look so unique compared to other blooms.

The Magnolia’s advanced age is part of the reason why you’ll find so many variations on colour, bloom and size. We have several different Magnolia Species for every type of garden available here at Diacos.

Let’s talk about how to grow and care for this beautiful plant, the Magnolia.

Magnolias are a low maintenance plant

Magnolia Trees are hardy plants with strong branches and large, waxy leaves. Some are deciduous and will bloom in Spring, while other species are evergreen and will continue to flower in Summer.

Magnolias have a tendency to struggle for the first couple of years of their lives and do very little, so it may take a while before you see solid growth. This fact has given them a slight reputation as a fussy plant, but it’s not really the case at all

In fact, the Magnolia is a very low-maintenance plant once it gets going, provided it’s been placed somewhere where its natural sunlight and soil nutrition needs are met. 

Be patient with your Magnolia, and you’ll be rewarded with a persistent, easy-to-care-for plant that will offer a rewarding bloom year after year.

Planting your Magnolia

Magnolia Trees like a little bit of space, and they don’t like to be moved. Don’t plant anything beneath them or too close to them – including grass – or you may risk both plants suffering.

However, Magnolias do like a bit of shelter from harsh winds, as it can snap their branches or destroy the beautiful blooms. This can be provided by other trees and shrubs in your yard. Try to choose somewhere where your Magnolia is sheltered by these other plants, but not crowded in. 

To plant your Magnolia, create a hole double the size of the pot and add fertiliser or manure, soil and a good quality potting mix. Water this mixture in well, then add a saucer-like depression around the base of the plant to direct the water to the roots.

Finally, add a thick (10cm) layer of mulch. Magnolias love mulch, so don’t be shy like you might be with other plants. You may need to re-mulch around once or twice a year, in Spring after the Magnolia begins to flower and again in Autumn if necessary. 

Sunlight

Sunlight is the most important ingredient for your Magnolia to thrive. These plants love a few hours of full sun, though they’ll need a little bit more shelter on hot Australian summer afternoons. A northern or easterly facing aspect with some shelter is likely the way to go.

Not sure you can manage this in your yard? That’s okay! Magnolia plants have been known to still do well in Partial Sun and Shade conditions. In these conditions, you may see slightly slower growth over time. However, you’ll be at less risk of your Magnolia overcooking in the summer heat.

Watering

Magnolias need a lot of water in the first few years of their lives. You’ll find yourself needing to water this plant around twice a week, but slightly less in late autumn and winter.

Be sure to aim your hose or watering can at the base of the tree and water as deeply as you can for the first few years of its life. Your goal is to try and encourage deeper, stronger root growth to help the tree last a long time. Young Magnolias that only receive surface-level watering are at risk of growing shallow, weak root systems that make the tree prone to falling over.

Once Magnolias have established some deeper roots, they will be able to hold more moisture and tolerate short dry spells or droughts. Once your Magnolia tree is mature, you will only need to water it around twice a month. At this stage, they are hardy, easy to look after and hard to kill.

They’ll need extra watering to get through summer, however, as the hot weather can make them very thirsty! As with any plant, keep an eye on the leaves to see how your Magnolia is doing.  You can check out our Guide to Watering Your Plants for more step-by-step instructions on managing the water needs of your garden.

Soil & Drainage

Magnolia love fertile, rich soil with good drainage. They will get by in most average garden soils. In fact, they’ll even adapt to loam, clay and sand provided there’s drainage, but nutrient-rich soil is always best. 

Drainage is probably the most important thing here. As your Magnolia needs so much watering in the first few years, it’s essential that the water has somewhere to escape to, as waterlogged or permanently wet soil will cause your tree to suffer. If you are keeping a Dwarf Magnolia in a pot, be sure to place the pot somewhere where it can drain freely, like concrete or pavers.

Finally, Magnolias prefer slightly acidic soil, usually around 5-6ph. An Acid-Neutral or Alkaline soil may suffice, provided that you supplement it with plenty of broken-down compost (often called ‘Humus’).

Pruning

We’d urge a bit of caution when it comes to pruning your Magnolia. Pruning in general isn’t necessary for these trees unless you are removing wind-damaged branches or aiming to encourage some vertical growth, rather than foliage and flowers.

If you do prune your Magnolia, prune straight after flowering and be careful not to damage it. Magnolias are resilient in almost every way, but they don’t recover well from pruning damage at all.

Never prune below the raised ridge at the base of larger branches, or it will prevent further growth and flowering in the future. This is one of the most important things to remember when caring for your Magnolia tree.    

Propagation

If you would like to propagate your plant to share it with friends, good on you! Gardens are made to be shared and grown. But you will have better luck propagating Magnolia from a cutting, rather than a seed. 

Seedling Magnolias may take a decade or more to flower, whereas a cutting should flower in around two years after it is rooted. To propagate your cutting, take around 20cm off of the end of a growing branch and remove all of the leaves except those at the very end. 

Make a small cut (around 5cm) in the base of the stem, cover generously with Rooting Hormone and plant it in a container with fast-draining soil like sand, peat or perlite. Keep this in indirect indoor light and mist regularly, as much as once a day. You can try wrapping it in plastic to help trap moisture – hydration is what your Magnolia cutting needs the most.

Don’t be deflated if it doesn’t work – Magnolia cuttings are known to fail fairly regularly. But if you keep it moist and keep an eye on it, there should be enough root growth after about 2 months to plant your Magnolia.

Can I keep a Magnolia indoors?

The short answer is no, unfortunately. As we mentioned earlier, Magnolias love full sunlight, and so most species of Magnolia will not make it as an indoor plant. There are many different magnolia species, but most are shrubs or big hardy trees that need an outdoor environment.

The exception is the Little Gem or ‘Dwarf’ Magnolia, which has been known to do quite well in the partial sun/shade of an indoor environment. You can find the Little Gem in the Diacos Store, and our friendly staff will be happy to answer any questions you may have about it.

If you don’t have any outdoor space but you’re dead set on a Magnolia (and who could blame you!) then we definitely recommend going for the Little Gem or another ‘Dwarf’ variety that won’t need as much care or space as a full-sized Magnolia Tree.

Otherwise, the love of full sun, water and space means that Magnolia is very much an outdoor plant. 



This has been our guide to growing and caring for the beautiful Magnolia Tree. Magnolias are one of the most rewarding flowers you can grow, with bold colours and a lovely scent.
Getting your Magnolia started can require a little bit of trial and error and a lot of care, but once it starts to grow, you will be blessed with a sturdy and pleasantly low-maintenance plant for years to come.

Our knowledgeable gardening experts are happy to answer any more in-depth questions you may have about your Magnolia. Don’t be afraid to drop us a line today – we’re always happy to help with any garden queries at Diacos.

June and July means that it’s bare root tree Season here in Australia, and it’s one of our favourite times of the year at Diacos. But what exactly is a bare rooted tree? If you’ve only just heard the term, or you’re just looking to do a little more research before buying or planting, then look no further. Our gardening experts have put together this comprehensive guide to bare root trees.

We’ll talk about what a bare root tree is, how to plant and care for it, and some of the most popular bare root trees available. If you’re in a hurry – or you only want to know about planting information – you can check out our shorter quick guide, Grow and Care for Bare Root Trees.

What is a Bare Root Tree?

Bare root trees are ready-grown trees that have been uprooted from the ground where they were grown. Their root system remains fully intact even though it has been removed from the soil. These ‘bare’ roots are where these trees get their name.

So why don’t the bare roots suffer? Well, bare rooting can only be done with deciduous trees & shrubs while they are dormant. In Australia, this is usually during the months of June, July and sometimes early August.

Dormancy for plants is like a form of hibernation – they are conserving energy and nutrients to better survive the harsh conditions of winter. Fortunately, this also means they can be removed from one soil and placed into another without going into shock and distress.

Most bare root trees are around 2-3 years old when removed, meaning that you won’t have to wait very long to start seeing results! In fact, there are a number of benefits to choosing a bare root tree over one that comes in a pot or container.

Why choose a Bare Rooted Tree?

The most immediate benefit to choosing a bare rooted tree is that it’s usually a lot cheaper than a tree that comes in a container. According to the ABC, by choosing a bare root tree instead of a potted tree, you can generally save up to 50%! 

If you have a long list of trees you’d love to buy, waiting until Winter for bare root tree season is not a bad idea. The best thing is that these trees aren’t just cheaper, they tend to grow better as well. This is because they have a much better chance of adapting to their new soil and location.

While the tree’s root system is dormant, it will adapt to being planted in new soil without much fuss, whereas a potted plant may struggle or go into shock when removed from its pot. The fast adaption time of bare roots tends to lead to faster plant growth and healthier results.

Bare root trees also arrive much more established in their growth than container trees, to better ensure the root systems can withstand being uprooted and replanted. As mentioned earlier, most bare roots will be at least 2 or 3 years old, and with a sturdy amount of roots already grown. This can save you a lot of time waiting for your tree to grow!

How to Plant Bare Root Trees

Preparation is the secret to planting your bare root and enjoying those easy results. It’s always a good idea to have everything prepared for your bare root tree before you bring it home.  This gives your tree the best chance of survival. 

If you do need to store your tree before planting, then it’s essential to keep the roots moist. Otherwise, they could be damaged, or could even dry out and kill your new tree.

To safely store your bare root tree, place it in a bag with wet sawdust or bury it in a shallow, moist hole. This is okay for up to a week, but the longer you leave it, the higher the risk of damaging your roots. If you’re only storing your tree for a day or less, you can place it in a bucket of water instead.

Preparing to plant  

You want the best possible soil ready to go for your bare-rooted tree. Do some research first to find out what kind of soil your tree likes, or ask one of our friendly experts if you’re purchasing from our store. To better prepare your soil, add some compost & manure and mix it together with soil and water.

Now it’s time to dig the hole! Generally, you’re going to want a hole that is deeper than it is wide. Depending on your soil, we recommend digging roughly twice as wide as the root ball of your tree. Another rule of thumb is to go 10-20cm larger than if you were choosing a pot.

If you have poorer soil, you may need to go as large as 1 metre wide with your hole! Finally, make a small mound in the centre of the hole. This is where you’re going to place the roots, so make sure that this mound will allow the base of your tree to sit level with the ground..

Planting your Bare Root Tree

The idea is to bury the tree to the same height that it was at before it was uprooted – you should be able to see a colour change at the base of the tree where it once came out of the soil. That marks where the base of your tree should be above ground.

Place the roots on top of your soil mound in the middle of the hole, so that the base is at the desired height. Then, spread the roots over the mound evenly. Gently begin to fill in your hole, wiggling the tree slightly as you go to ensure the roots make good contact with the soil. 

Finally, water the tree generously to give it a good start. If the tree is in an exposed area, you may need to stake the tree to protect it from harsh winds. 

How to Care for Bare Root Trees

After you’ve planted your bare root tree, it’s still going to need a little bit of care to settle in properly. Because your bare root has been planted while dormant, it’s going to look like a bare, barren stick for a month or so before it begins to bloom and grow again. 

Here’s what to keep in mind when caring for your new bare root tree:

Water and Mulch

During this period, your bare root tree will need a bit of extra care. Water your bare root more often for the first couple of weeks to ensure that the soil is consistently moist. Every 2nd or 3rd day is generally a good rule of thumb, though some species of tree may differ.

It’s important not to overdo this constant watering, as your root system will drown if it is completely soaked for a long period. Check your soil frequently to make sure that the water is draining away. You want it to be moist, but not waterlogged. Persistent puddles or mud is a bad sign.

On the other hand, if you’re struggling to keep your soil moist or think that you won’t be home enough to water regularly, Mulching around your tree can be an excellent solution. Mulch helps soil retain moisture for longer, reducing the need to water as frequently.

It can take around 2-4 weeks for the roots of your tree to become active again. Once they do, it’s time to reduce your watering to around once a week. Heavier, less frequent waterings will encourage a deeper, healthier root system. 

Pruning

Pruning is an essential step to the success of your bare-rooted tree. When a tree is removed from the field, it loses a significant portion of its root system. 

If you don’t prune it back, the tree will have an unbalanced root-to-tree ratio, which will cause serious problems. Depending on the tree, you will need to prune significantly so that the tree can establish itself more quickly. 

This step is one of the most important parts of planting a bare root tree – don’t skip it!

Popular Bare Root Trees

There are more bare root trees in the world than we could possibly count. The availability of some bare root trees can also change from year to year. Still, there are some classic choices that you’ll tend to find every year. Here are 6 of the most popular bare root trees out there:

1. Fruit Trees

Fruit Trees are far and away the most popular bare root trees we sell, as purchasing your fruit trees in bare root form considerably cuts down on the amount of time that you need to wait before you can start to eat their delicious fruits!

There’s a huge variety of fruit trees that will thrive as bare root trees, including pear trees, plum trees, apple trees, lemon trees, fig-trees, cherry trees and even almond trees. Chat to our friendly team about what we’ve got in stock this year. 

2. Maple Trees

Maple trees, including the stunning Japanese Maple, are some of the most splendid bare root trees available. They come in all kinds of visually striking colours, including purple, red, deep green and orange. 

Planting your bare root tree while dormant does mean that you’ll be looking at a naked stick at first, but have a little patience and you’ll be rewarded with one of the most beautiful trees in the world. This is a striking way to add colour to any garden.

Japanese Maple trees aren’t always cheap to purchase as a potted plant, so buying during bare root season can often save you a lot of money.

3. Ginkgo Trees (Maidenhair)

This graceful, slow-growing tree is the oldest surviving tree on earth. It’s had a long time to get comfortable, so the Ginkgo tends to be very easygoing in most soils and conditions. It’s a great choice if you’re intimidated by some of the fussier trees on the list.

The huge, fan-shaped leaves of the ginkgo are beautiful and vibrantly green, transforming into a wonderful golden hue in Autumn. Going bare-root means that you can start to enjoy this pleasant, shady foliage even faster.

If you like the idea of planting a tree that will keep growing up as you grow old, then you’ll be impressed by the Ginkgo tree. It only grows by around 30cm a year, but it can reach up to 50-80 feet in height and 30-40 feet in diameter!

4. Silver Birch Trees

With their striking white trunks and elegant green foliage, birch trees are a classic. These are very popular for suburban gardeners, and the gently drooping branches of the silver birch certainly make for a lovely garden tree.

If birch trees are on your list, don’t go for a potted version. Potted birches will always turn out much smaller than a bare-root or soil-grown birch. That’s because these trees have impressive root structures that spread outwards as they mature, which a pot severely limits.

Because of this, birch trees require a medium-to-large backyard and a bit of space from other plants. However, a few birch trees placed close together can look absolutely stunning.  

5. Claret Ash (Fraxinus)

Finally, the Claret Ash is another fantastic choice for a Bare Root Tree. These trees are famous for their beautiful red-to-purple foliage in autumn, for which they are aptly named. Tall, shady and graceful, this tree is a classic.

These deciduous trees love the full sun and grow extremely fast. Claret Ashes can grow upwards of a metre a year! This makes them a great choice for suburban or country gardeners, although like the Silver Birch,  their extensive root system may not be well-suited to a smaller area.  

Although fully grown Claret Ashes are tough and drought tolerant, they can be fairly sensitive in the first few years of their lives. Planting these trees bare root style means that you can skip most of this awkward phase. It will also give them a better chance of adapting to your soil than if you transferred the tree from a pot. 


This has been our guide to bare root trees. Now you can see why bare root season gets us so excited here at Diacos! Waiting for the bare root versions of your favourite tree can save you a lot of time and money, and you’ll often end up with a larger, healthier tree.
Come into one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres during June and July to explore our extensive range of bare root trees. If you’re reading this guide outside of bare root season, feel free to ask one of our helpful gardening experts online about what you can expect to find when it comes around.

Watering is essential to the life of your indoor plants. It’s one of the key ingredients to keeping them happy and healthy.

Plants that grow outdoors get much of their water naturally, though they will still need to be watered in the warmer, drier months. Read our step-by-step guide to watering your plants here.

Indoor plants don’t have the luxury of being rained on. Keeping your indoor plants happy and thriving requires a slightly deeper knowledge of your plant’s watering needs. That’s why our team of gardening experts have put together this comprehensive guide to watering your indoor plants.

One thing to keep in mind… Every plant is different. Always make sure to check and follow the care instructions that come with your specific plant. However, understanding the basics of indoor plant watering is the first step to growing and enjoying happy, healthy plants!

Why your indoor plant needs water.

Like humans, plants are mostly made up of water, and they need to drink it regularly to stay healthy.

Around 90% of a plant’s cellular structure is made of water – it’s what fills the plant cells and keeps them rigid and upright. Without a steady supply of H2O, these cell structures will quickly begin to break down and sag.

Water also helps plants perform a number of essential functions that they need to survive. For one, it helps absorb nutrients and circulate them around the plant. Extracting glucose from water is an integral part of their photosynthesis process (the conversion of sunlight to nutrients) and it also helps them maintain and regulate their ideal temperatures

This is true of every plant – even the ones that have evolved to need very little water. Like every living thing on earth, plants just need water to survive.

Overwatering is a more common issue than underwatering.

This is our number one tip to keep in mind for people who are new to watering indoor plants. 

Most of us learn from a young age that plants need water, and someone who is new to caring for plants is likely to water their plant regularly and enthusiastically. 

This constant watering comes from a good place, but it isn’t always the best idea. Overwatering is actually the most common reason that indoor plants die off. As a rule, most plants will prefer it if you let the soil dry completely before watering again. Always test the first few centimetres of soil with your fingers before watering. If it’s wet or damp, don’t water it.  

Plant roots need oxygen just as much as they need water, and soil that is wet all the time won’t let enough oxygen through, causing your plant to quite literally drown. Too much constant moisture can also cause root rot and create a damp environment for diseases, mould and pests to flourish.

The best way to avoid this is to invest in pots with good drainage and err on the side of caution when you first get your plant, especially for dry-climate plants like cacti. Keep an eye out for yellowing or wilting leaves, soft stems and foul, damp odours – these are the most common signs of overwatering. 

Remember to always check the first few centimetres of soil with your fingers. If it is always damp, you are likely overwatering. Watering your indoor plants in the mornings is also a good idea. It will give the water a better chance to soak in properly, and to naturally evaporate throughout the course of the day.

How to know when your indoor plants need water

Checking the first few centimetres of soil with your fingers is the best way to tell when your plant is thirsty. You can also squeeze some in your palm for the same results.

If the soil is dry and crumbly, it’s time for a drink. Already wet and sticky? Then you probably shouldn’t water it. Lightly moist soil means it’s at the perfect level right now. This simple, old-school technique is still what most experienced gardeners rely on to get the moisture right. 

Your plant will generally let you know if it is feeling unhealthy. Wilted leaves, discolouration and a general sad vibe are the biggest giveaways. But as you may have noticed, these are almost the same as the signs for overwatering! 

That’s why the best thing to do is check your soil – it’s one of the most accurate markers of the level of moisture in your indoor plant. 

4 tips for watering your indoor plants effectively.

There are lots of ways to water indoor plants easily, without making a mess. We’ve listed some of our favourite techniques and tips below:

  1. Water the soil, not the leaves. It is good to get your whole plant wet sometimes, but the roots are where most of the water absorption actually happens. That means it’s important to water your plant so that the water seeps down properly into the soil. Aiming your watering can at the base of the plant also helps you to avoid splashing water everywhere whilst indoors.
  2. Water from Below. Many gardeners swear by this method, and it’s particularly great for indoor plants with stems that are sensitive to water. Place a tray full of water beneath your pot and let the water soak up into the roots via the drainage holes. Keep refilling the tray until it won’t absorb any more, and then remove. Simple, clean and effective.
  3. Placing stones or pebbles over your soil is a good solution if you find that water evaporates too quickly from your indoor plant, or if you’re growing something that likes to stay moist. That’s because the stones trap the water in the soil, keeping it moist for longer. They also repel pests like gnats and help stop dirt from spreading or spilling onto your floor.
  4. Wicking is a great low-effort method for watering your indoor plants while you are away from home. It involves inserting a length of twine or string deep into your soil and then placing the other end in a container of water. The string will absorb the water from the container and slowly transfer (or ‘wick’) the water to your plant over a number of days. You can read the WikiHow on Wicking for a quick guide.  

Is tap water okay for my indoor plants?

Good question! Many plant owners may not have considered whether the water they’re giving to their plants is actually appropriate. 

‘Hard’ tap water that still contains natural minerals is considered good for most plants, though water that is very hard may cause problems. However, most people agree that ‘Soft’ or treated tap water is not healthy for your garden. 

This is because softened water has usually been treated with sodium. This can cause high levels of salts to build up in your soil, which will confuse and dehydrate your plant. Chlorinated tap water is safe for most plants, but not ideal for some. Rainwater and filtered water are generally your best options.

Australia is a very dry country, so the quality of tap water and the amount of softening additives it includes can vary greatly between different cities and regions. Victoria and Melbourne have fairly soft water, so if you notice your more sensitive plants are struggling, the sodium levels of the tap water could be why.

The good news is that you don’t need to install a huge rainwater tank or do anything drastic. Just remember to put your watering can or a few open containers outside when it rains. A basic filtration system is also a viable and affordable option for most budding gardeners. You can also flood out or ‘leach’ salt deposits from your soil with a heavy watering.

Common Dry and Wet Indoor Plants

As we’ve mentioned, every indoor plant is different. It would be impossible for us to list all the different watering needs of every type of plant, and you’d probably fall asleep trying to read it!

However, it can still help to have a working knowledge of common dry and wet indoor plant types. This can help you choose a plant that you’ll be able to look after.

  • Indoor Plants that love to be dry include Zanzibar Gem, Mother-In-Law’s Tongue, and various cacti and succulents. The trick is to consider the plant’s natural climate in the wild. If it normally grows somewhere dry and drought-stricken, like the desert, then it’s usually a dry-loving plant that needs less frequent watering than other plants.
  • Indoor plants that love a lot of moisture generally hail from tropical areas and rainforests where it is always wet. These plants are hard to overwater and includes most of the popular ferns. These plants are good for a bathroom, or if you’re worried that you might be the type to overwater.

There is such a wide away of indoor plants out there – after all, an ‘indoor plant’ is any plant that you can keep indoors – so it’s always important to check the specific care instructions for the plant that you’re bringing home. 

By following the general watering tips and information set out in this guide, you’ll be on the road to growing a huge, healthy indoor garden in no time! 



Anyone can learn to be a natural green thumb with a little bit of time, love and care. Check out our diverse range of beautiful indoor plants at Diacos today to get your indoor garden started.

The Fiddle Leaf Fig – or Ficus Lyrata – is a popular indoor plant with large vibrant green leaves, hailing from the steamy rainforests of Africa.

Fiddle Leaf Figs are fairly large plants in general; they grow up to 15-30 metres in the wild and can easily reach between 6 and 10 feet high indoors. If this sounds a bit daunting to you, don’t worry. Smaller ‘Ficus Lyrata Bambino’ varieties are also available.

These splendid plants will look striking in a home or commercial space. But they definitely need a bit of careful love to really thrive. Fiddle Leaf Figs may have developed a reputation for being fussy, yet they’re actually quite resilient if you can get the conditions right.

Here’s how to grow and care for your Fiddle Leaf Fig indoors.

Potting your Fiddle Leaf Fig

You should pick a larger-than-average pot for Fiddle Leaf Figs, because this plant grows quickly. Don’t choose a pot that’s too much larger than your plant though, or the soil may take on more water than the plant needs, potentially leading to root rot.

Root rot and leaf-dropping are very common issues with these plants. Try to select a pot with good drainage to prevent the roots from becoming soggy and waterlogged. A good rule of thumb when potting is to look for a pot that is slightly larger than the ball of the root. 

To keep your Fiddle Leaf healthy and happy, you should re-pot it every couple of years or so into a slightly larger pot. You will likely need to repot this plant every Spring while it is young, as the growth can be quite rapid. But be careful if you decide to repot it in winter, because exposure to cold temperatures (10-15 degrees Celsius or lower) may stress out or kill this plant.

Repotting will become fairly difficult once your Fiddle Leaf Fig matures into a large plant. When repotting is no longer possible, it may still help to replace the top layer of soil (down to about 5-10cm or so) every Spring.

Watering

The key to watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig is moderation. Overwatering is probably the most common cause of death for these plants, so don’t go overboard. Water your fiddle leaf regularly from Spring through to Autumn, around once every 7-14 days. In Winter this plant will need much less water – as little as once a month, even.

The roots of the Fiddle Leaf are very susceptible to rotting when they get waterlogged, so if you see your leaves starting to drop off, take a break. It’s also important not to under water either. You’ll know it’s not getting enough water if the plant starts wilting, losing its colour or generally starting to look sad and unkempt. 

A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger a few centimetres into the soil first. If it’s completely dry, then you’re good to go. If it’s still moist, you should wait until the soil drains completely. 

It’s also a good idea to ‘leach’ or flush out your pot every few weeks (or months) with a thorough watering, to stop salt or other mineral deposits from building up in the soil. You can read more about watering your indoor plants here.

Sunlight

The other essential ingredient to caring for your plant is making sure it’s getting enough sunlight. This is another area where you’ll need to find the sweet spot – direct sunlight will burn this plant, but low light conditions may stunt its growth. Partial Sun and Shade are ideal. You can check out our guide to Plants and Sunlight to get a better idea of what this looks like.

Aim for plenty of filtered morning light, as your Fiddle Leaf should do well in these conditions. Try placing your plant near a window where it’s going to get long, steady exposure in the mornings. Unfortunately, the afternoon sun in most Australian cities is likely to be too hot and harsh for this plant, so try and avoid west-facing windows, especially in the warmer months.

You may also want to rotate your plant regularly to ensure that it’s getting enough sunlight all the way around. This will help it grow more evenly and give it a better chance at a healthy life. Don’t constantly move it around your home though – the shock might be too much for your fiddle leaf. Consistency is key with these plants.

Ideal Temperature

As we mentioned, this fig originates from the rainforests of Western Africa, where it enjoys a steamy, tropical climate all year round. If you’re growing your fiddle leaf fig outside, a tropical climate is where it will do best. Yet Fiddle Leaf Figs are probably most popular as indoor plants, and there’s a reason for that.

While these plants do prefer a warmer environment, they will generally be quite hardy as long as the temperature is consistent and not freezing cold. The steady, mild temperatures of an indoor environment will actually be good for this plant, provided you don’t place it near an air-conditioner, a heater or your front door. 

The other thing that these plants need is a good amount of humidity in the air. We think that around 40-50% is the sweet spot, but slightly lower or higher should still be okay. Your home or apartment is unlikely to reach that level of humidity very often, but placing a humidifier in the room can help a lot.

Another good solution is to mist your plant daily or regularly wipe down the leaves with a damp cloth. This should keep your Fiddle Leaf happy and help it soak up some extra sun too. 

One popular humidity-raising technique is to place your pot on a tray of pebbles or stones with a layer of water beneath the stones – just make sure the water isn’t touching the pot.

Soil and Fertiliser

Most high-quality potting mixes should be okay for a Fiddle Leaf Fig. These plants aren’t too fussy about soil, and any good quality potting mix is likely to do the trick. Yet there are a couple of important things to look for when you’re choosing a soil. 

One is acidity: Look for a range between 6-7ph for optimal results. The other thing is drainage, which is very important for this plant. Always pick a soil that drains well to help your plant avoid that dreaded root rot. 

As for fertiliser, use a controlled-release fertiliser when you first pot this plant. Then use a high-nitrogen, water-soluble fertiliser throughout the Spring-Summer growing season, roughly around once a month. The nitrogen helps to give the leaves their signature deep green colour. 

Pruning

A little bit of pruning will be good for your Fiddle Leaf Fig. If you see any leaves that look as if they are yellowing, crusty or generally sad, then give them the snip. For best results, don’t cut too close to the trunk, and try not to cut off new buds.

You can also use pruning to help ensure an even, visually appealing growth. If you feel that one part of your fiddle leaf is becoming a bit too dense and layered, don’t be afraid to cut it back. It’s likely to help the overall health of your plant, too.

Propagation

It is possible to propagate your Fiddle Leaf Fig with a little bit of patience. Propagating from a seed will be too difficult for most DIY gardeners, but propagating from a cutting is easy enough. Take a good, long stem cutting (around 30-50cm) and place it upright in a container filled with water.

Keep this somewhere with a warm room temperature and a mix of bright, filtered sunlight and partial shade. To help replicate the right conditions in a colder environment, placing an empty plastic bottle over the top of your cutting can help intensify the sunlight, humidity and heat that your plant is receiving.

Replace your water every couple of weeks or so, once it begins to look dirty or misty. Over a period of about 2 months, you will start seeing roots begin to grow from your cutting. Once these roots start to look longer and thicker, it’s time to transfer your cutting to a small pot. Keep this soil slightly moister than you would for a mature fiddle leaf, whilst still taking care not to overwater it. 

Common Problems with Fiddle Leaf Figs.

As we mentioned earlier, the most common problem that these plants experience is rotting roots from overwatering. Checking the top layer of soil has completely dried before watering again is still the best way to avoid this problem.

Thankfully, the Fiddle Leaf Fig is not as prone to disease as many other indoor plants. Yet you will still need to watch out for common plant problems like bacterial diseases, fungal growth and tiny pests like scale insects, aphids, fungal gnats and mites. 

As with other issues, blemished or sad-looking leaves are the biggest indicator that your fiddle leaf is dealing with one or more of these issues. Using a good quality pesticide or fungal solution should usually be enough to help your plant bounce back, but you can check out our guide to dealing with indoor pests for more tips. 

Many of these issues stem from an overly damp environment, so as with avoiding root rot, making sure your plant isn’t overwatered or soggy is the most important thing to look out for.

One final thing to note is that this plant can be toxic to cats and dogs, so it may not be a good choice of indoor plant for pet owners. Otherwise, though, the Fiddle Leaf Fig is a fantastic indoor plant that is resilient, easy to care for and can bring a lot of joy to your home.



This has been our guide to the Fiddle Leaf Fig. We love this special little plant and we’re sure that you will too. Following this guide will give you the best chance of growing a happy and healthy plant. 

Check out our Fiddle Leaf Figs or explore the diverse range of Indoor Plants at Diacos. We’re here to help you fall in love with gardening.

Everyone wants their garden to look amazing and that has never been more true than now. It’s our little or big place to unwind, whether that means getting our hands dirty, chilling, spending quality time with the family, or doing an outdoor barbecue cook-up. The garden is our safe space and sanctuary. 

We are sharing some simple tips on how to zhuzh up your garden style and create a mini paradise. Be proud of your garden and create one that inspires the neighbours. 

We’ve kept things simple, so many of our tips don’t involve bank-breaking expenses or labour. 

The Lawn

Even if you are a staunch waterer of your lawn, you can take it to the next level by edging it. Giving it some structure, whether you use a round shape or keep it rectangular. Edging can neaten it up and give it that professional, manicured look. There are many options for the edges – wood, metal, or stone, and you can go for a classy, minimalist look or something a bit more decorative and ornate. And surrounding it with white pebbles or gravel is the icing on the cake. 

Pot Plants and Hanging Baskets

If you’re pushed for space, or entirely lacking the green fingers required to turn over, plant, and maintain flower beds, pot plants are a great way to surround yourself with flowers. 

You can buy ready-planted pots, but they are easy enough to start from scratch, and only require regular watering to stay alive. And there are pots of all shapes, sizes, and designs to choose from to suit gardens of all sizes and gardeners of all tastes. Hanging baskets are also great to create an atmosphere and an immersive garden experience with little horticultural effort

Screening

Gardens have to have some items in them which are practical but unsightly. Maybe your shed is a bit shabby, or you keep your trash or recycling out the back. Screening is a great technique to ensure that you see the bits of your garden you want to see. 

Climbing plants are an excellent way to block out uglier elements or soften harsh walls or fences, and perfect if your garden is on the smaller side – they take up almost no space and won’t infringe on your other plants or surfaces. Bamboo is also a popular screening option, with a classy look, or choose willow for some elegance. 

Lighting

To create tones and atmosphere, you should consider installing garden lighting. Wall washing lights create a dreamy effect, whereas spotlights and bollard lighting can be both practical and aesthetically pleasing. Many people use fairy lights to create a magical atmosphere, and if you live somewhere with a colder climate, there are combination heater lights available. Another popular option is solar lighting – install some stake lights around the lawn which come on as the sun sets for a gentle, soothing vibe. 

Patio

If you don’t have a patio, laying one will give you a great space to relax and barbecue with family and friends. They don’t have to cost the earth either, and if you have time, energy, and skills, you can do it yourself. If you already have one, borrowing or hiring a pressure washer to take away a layer (or many) of dirt and grime will have a significant effect – even if it doesn’t seem dirty to the naked eye, you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the result. 

Upcycle

Upcycling adds character, and it’s a great way to use old materials for breathing new life into your garden. There are thousands of ideas to inspire you, whether you use old shelves or tables, quirky fashion planters, or use an old bicycle as a feature. 

Anything you have stashed away in storage (or anything you can find in a skip or on a street corner) can be transformed into something special to make your garden unique. It is also a great way to reduce waste – the market for second-hand furniture is depleting year by year – doing your bit for the environment.

Your garden is full of potential, whether you are into gardening or not. Gardens boost our physical and mental health, and taking the time to elevate yours into something special will reap dividends in the future, and give you a source of pride and wellbeing.

If you want to know more about the help benefits of gardening, check out our other post.

Becoming a homeowner, although very interesting, can sometimes be quite intimidating. This is particularly true if you’ve become a first-time homeowner. Despite the fact that you’ve managed to accomplish such a huge thing, things can get quite confusing very fast.

One of the things new homeowners seem to struggle with the most is the lawn and garden upkeep. Chances are that if you’re a new homeowner, you never really needed to learn how to take care of a yard. “How often do they need to be watered”, “what types of plants should you have in your garden” and so many other questions will now need to be answered. So, with that in mind, here are some useful tips on how to care for your yard properly.

Determine the vibe

The first thing you’ll need to decide is the vibe you want to go within your yard. There are so many styles and designs you can choose from. From neatly maintained to seemingly fully-natural vibe, all of the styles have something unique to offer. So, before you get down to preparing your yard for planting, make sure you know the vibe you wish to create.

Choose plants carefully

Once you know what you want to create in your garden and how you want your lawn to look like, it’s time to start choosing and planting greenery. First off, make sure you aerate the ground you want to cover with grass so that once you plant the grass the seed has enough oxygen to develop properly. Moreover, consider planting various succulents as these are easy to maintain yet they look gorgeous. For maximum effect, you should learn how to propagate succulents and allow your garden to develop further.

Get a good lawnmower

The first thing you’ll need to decide is the vibe you want to go within your yard. There are so many styles and designs you can choose from. From neatly maintained to seemingly fully-natural vibe, all of the styles have something unique to offer. So, before you get down to preparing your yard for planting, make sure you know the vibe you wish to create.

Know when to mow

While on the subject of mowing, it’s not enough to simply run your mower every once in a while. Instead, you need to know when exactly you should cut your grass. When mowing, about a third of a grass blade is all you should be cutting off. If you cut off more than a third, you run the risk of damaging your grass beyond repair. But, if your grass got a bit out of control, you should – of course – cut a bit more. What you can do in such a scenario is set your mower to the highest possible cutting setting and give it a whirl. After you’ve cut your grass, reset the mower to its previous setting and cut your lawn once more after a few days have passed.

Take care of weeds

No matter how well you take care of your lawn and garden and no matter how careful you are with what you plant, the fact is that you’ll soon find yourself battling with weeds. These pesky plants always find a way to show up unannounced and make a mess out of your otherwise well-maintained greenery. While there are lots of chemical solutions on the market that can help you tackle weeds, they’re not the ideal choice for the environment. That’s why you should research different ways you can get rid of weeds in your garden without hurting our planet.

Keep these tips in mind if you’ve just become an owner of a property that comes with a lawn and a garden. While it may all seem a bit intimidating in the beginning, chances are you will get the hang of things quite fast.

Starting a personal vegetable garden doesn’t just ensure you have enough fresh food to eat. It can also combat anxiety, depression, and improve your mental health.

If you are looking for a way to stay active, healthy, and learn a life-saving hobby then get outside to start growing some of your own autumn vegetables.

Read on to discover what to plant and how to prepare and care for your garden.

Setting Up a Garden

The temperature in Melbourne during autumn is considered mild, however, nighttime can get chilly. That is why you want to choose a location for your garden so your plants soak up enough sunlight during the day. This is especially important in the fall where the average hours of sunlight are only 6 hours in March, 5 hours in April, and 4 hours in May on average.

Next, you want to create your beds to lay your soil. Raised beds allow you to add your own mixtures of organic soil and compost, which makes your soil rich in vital nutrients.

Putting your garden above the ground keeps pests from venturing into your garden. Surround your beds with a wire fence to further protect it from hungry critters.

Prepare your compost year-round using a bin to collect household organic waste. Mix your broken-down compost with your soil to create an airy nutritious soil.

One of the most important tips for growing vegetables is to ensure you have a proper water source. The right amount of water is essential to growing healthy plants.

Use a drip irrigation system, a soaker hose, or a sprinkler to automatically water your plants daily. They can be set on a timer and adjust to release enough water to soak your plants without overwatering them.

Choosing Your Plants

The best vegetables to plant in autumn should be able to handle the cooler temperatures and less rainfall. Therefore, most of your plants will be either herbs, underground rooted vegetables, leafy greens, or other veggies that have a thick protective exterior.

Use this vegetable planting guide to know what to grow and how to choose which method of cultivation is best.

Herbs

Many types of herbs can be easily grown as they spread and thrive in abundant sun, and some can handle a range of watering schedules. They also grow super fast so you don’t have to worry about small plants getting broken while they grow.

Their speed and strength mean that they can be planted directly into the soil. Herbs are also great for a potted garden. Just consider how large the plant will grow to choose the appropriate size planter container.

Some herbs that grow well in the cooler months of autumn include:

  • Coriander (March and April)
  • Parsley (March, April, and May)
  • Dill (May)
  • Fennel (March, April, and May)
  • Chives (March, April, and May)
  • Rosemary (March, April, and May)
  • Thyme (March, April, and May)
  • Mint (March, April, and May)
  • Sage (March, April, and May)

If you are concerned about direct sowing then you can start your herbs in a smaller pot. Most herbs don’t mind being transplanted to the ground once they are large enough.

Root Vegetables

Keeping your plants warm during autumn in Melbourne is the trickiest part about gardening in the cooler season. Planting vegetables that grow under the soil ensures that they are toasty even during a possible frost.

Most root vegetables can be planted directly into the soil as well. Potatoes use a tuber method to cover the stems with mounds of dirt. Garlic uses already grown cloves as seed. You can place garlic in water to initiate the growth of new roots or plant them directly into the soil. Both potatoes and garlic can be planted March through May.

Other root vegetables for autumn planting include:

  • Onion (May)
  • Beetroot (March and April)
  • Carrot (March, April, and May)
  • Raddish (March, April, and May)
  • Shallots (March, April, and May)
  • Turnip (March, April, and May)

Since they are emerged within the soil they soak up its nutrients. Eating these vegetables fills your body with vitamins and minerals as well as immune-boosting antioxidants.

They grow thick and tough under the ground which makes them a good source of carbohydrates and fiber.

Leafy Greens

Leafy greens might be the most nutritious vegetables in your garden as they are full of vitamins A, C, and K. Plus they contain folate (a B vitamin that creates red and white blood cells to provide oxygen to your body and fight off infection.

Adding these power veggies to your diet can fight obesity, lower blood pressure, and make your heart strong.

Some leafy greens to plant in your garden include:

  • Lettuce (March, April, and May)
  • Kale (March, April, and May)
  • Brussel Sprouts (March and April)
  • Mizuna (March, April, and May)
  • Mustard Seeds (March, April, and May)
  • Pok Choy (March, April, and May)
  • Spinach (March, April, and May)
  • Cabbage (March, April, and May)

They grow partially underground, which also protects them from cool weather.

Other Vegetables

Some vegetables that have thick stalks and a protective shell to shield them from the cold. They include:

  • Broccoli (March, April, and May)
  • Cauliflower (March, April, and May)
  • Peas (March and April)
  • Broad Beans (March, April, and May)

Include these vegetables in your garden for more protein and flavor added to your meals.

Getting the right Autumn Vegetables Supplies

Before you start planting autumn vegetables you should first get your list of supplies. You will need more than just seeds and soil.

Get your hardware, mulch, and fertilizers to have a successful growing season. Visit our shop to get your garden tools delivered right to your home.

Photinia is a genus of 40-60 species of large shrubs and small trees. The red tip photinia is the most famous, but there are other photinia shrubs and trees you can grow.

Growing photinia shrubs and trees is recommended for everyone, even if you don’t have a green thumb.

If you’re interested in growing photinias, here’s how to grow and care for them.

Why Grow Photinia Shrubs and Trees

Photinia plants make popular shrubs. Homeowners love photinias because they’re low-maintenance and grow extremely tall, offering plenty of privacy. Photinias are also popular if your home has a deer problem; deer tend to leave photinias alone.

They’re easy to grow and homeowners just need to consistently prune photinias to keep their shape and health.

How to Grow Photinia Plants

While growing photinia plants is easy, photinias require a specific environment to flourish. Here’s how to grow photinia plants.

Soil

Photinias thrive in well-drained soil. Avoid wet soil because it can lead to root rot. The area you plant them must receive good air movement. If your yard only has heavy clay soils, amend the soil with 50 per cent compost.

Light and Temperature

Photinias prefer areas with full light but can also thrive in partial shade. If your yard has restricted light, find a spot with only partial shade.

While photinia plants prefer lots of light, the area you plant them should also depend on the climate. Plant them in partial shade if you live in a hot climate. If your area is frequently cold, plant the photinia in full sunlight.

The way the plant faces also impacts the amount of light it receives. Try and keep your plant facing north. East-facing photinias also receive plenty of light.

Water

Water the plant at the roots once a week. If your area receives plenty of rain, don’t water the plants as often. Too much water can drown the roots, impacting the growth.

Keep in mind, photinia plants prefer at least two and a half centimetres of water. While you shouldn’t water frequently, you should water deeply.

As the plant grows, try to not wet the leaves. Wet photinia leaves attract fungus growth.

Fertiliser

Photinias typically don’t require fertiliser. Only use fertiliser if the soil is very poor quality. Test the soil if you’re unsure about the quality. When you have to feed the photinia, use a slow-release organic fertiliser.

How Long Does It Take for Photinias to Reach Maturity?

The amount of time for photinias to reach full maturity depends on which type of photinia you’re growing.

Red tip photinias reach full maturity rather quickly — between two and four weeks. They can grow up to three metres in height and width.

But some photinia species take longer to grow. For example, Chinese photinia (Photinia serrulate) can take anywhere between five and 12 years to reach full maturity. These photinias can grow as big as 10 metres tall.

How to Care for Photinia

After your photinia plant grows to full maturity, you’ll have to continue maintaining the plant to keep it healthy. Here’s how.

Soil

Continue draining the soil. If you needed to amend the soil or add fertilizer during the growing process, continue doing so.

Once your photinia reaches full maturity, you don’t need to water the plant as often. Most mature photinia is very drought tolerant, but this also depends on the species.

For example, red tip photinia isn’t as drought-tolerant as other photinias. Water these plants at least once a week or every other day during a drought or if you have extremely hot weather.

Pruning

Pruning is one of the most important aspects of photinia maintenance. If you don’t prune your photinia, it won’t have room to grow and can fall victim to a number of different diseases. Pruning also prevents leaves from dying and falling off.

There are different ways to prune your photinia. It’s recommended you keep the shrub wider at the base so the sunlight can reach the bottom branches.

If this is your first time pruning photinia, start by trimming the branches at different lengths until you can find an appearance you like. There is no right way to prune photinia, as long as the shrub has plenty of space and every branch receives sunlight.

When shouldn’t you prune your photinia? Avoid regular pruning if you live in an area plagued by photinia leaf spot, which is a fungus that damages new photinia leaves.

In addition, you should avoid pruning your photinia in the fall and winter. New photinia plants and branches don’t flourish well in the cold weather.

Diseases That Affect Photinia

While photinia is a useful and low-maintenance shrub and tree, these plants attract different diseases.

We mentioned the photinia leaf spot previously. This fungus grows on wet leaves.

Most homeowners will notice the fungus damaging the leaves. These are circular spots that appear on the tops and bottoms of the leaves. They may look like tiny red spots or large purple blotches, depending on the type of photinia and the severity of the photinia leaf spot.

If left untreated, the leaves will fall off and the photinia will die. To treat photinia leaf spot, cut off the infected leaves. You may have to add mulch to prevent the spread of the fungus.

We also mentioned the root rot. To prevent root rot, don’t overwater your photinia.

You may also find mildew on your photinia. You can identify mildew by looking for a white, powdery substance on the leaves and shoots. Left untreated, mildew can cause stunted growth and premature defoliation.

Remove the leaves and any areas covered with mildew to prevent the spread.

Grow Photinia Today

If you’re looking for useful and low-maintenance plants, then you’ll love photinia. These are popular hedging plants because they grow extremely tall and offer privacy. As long as you follow these instructions, you’ll have strong and healthy photinia!

Are you interested in growing photinia? We offer photinia and a variety of other hedging plants. Take a look at our catalogue!

Sunlight is as important to the health of your plants as the soil and water. Identify the signs of too little and too much sun, and what do to about it.

Photosynthesis

Every plant needs light to grow and flourish. Plants use light to perform a vital process known as photosynthesis, whereby they turn light into sugars. Therefore the more light a plant is exposed to, the more energy it will create and the faster it will grow!

Quantity of light

You will often read that a particular species of plant prefers a certain amount of light. Often plants producing fruits, vegetables and flowers require more light. These plants may struggle if they are not receiving enough light.

Indoors Versus Outside

Outdoor plants receive much more sunlight than indoor plants. Even the heaviest outdoor shade provides more light than the sunniest indoor window. When a plant is indoors, light is usually coming from one source, such as a window.

Too little or too much sun

As you walk through your garden, you can perform a visual check on the condition of your plants. If your plants are drying out, burnt, faded or drooping, they may be receiving too much sun. On the flip side, if your plants are growing sparsely, have lanky and spindly branches, fewer flowers or flower buds falling off, they may not be receiving enough sun.

Just the right amount of sun

Optimising your plant’s sunlight is very important. Some simple ways to tell if your plants are getting enough sun include vibrant leaf colour and plant lean. Healthy thriving plants have dark green leaves. Leaning is a side effect of the plant’s search for light.

Ways to improve sun exposure in your garden

There are a few ways you can enhance a garden that is lacking enough sunlight. First, if you have any large trees in your garden blocking sunlight from other plants, you may need to have the crown of your tree thinned to improve the health of the rest of your plants. Secondly, paint any fences and buildings surrounding your garden white to maximise light reflection. Finally, if you plant your garden in rows from north to south, it can help improve the overall sun exposure.

Other great resources

The key to healthy plants is healthy soil. Understand your soil type and learn how to nurture your plants and let’s not forget about composting.

What makes garden soil great?

Soil is more than just dirt. It is a complex ecosystem, and if it’s healthy, your plants will be too! Good soil has good water-holding capacity, allowing your plants to withstand whatever mother nature throws at them!

What type of soil do I have?

Generally, there are three types – clay, loam or sand. Loam is a combination of silt, clay, and sand and is ideal for plant growing. To work out which type of organic matter you have in your garden, dig down 10 cm and squeeze a handful of soil into a ball. Loamy soil will form a rough ball that crumbles readily, with a mix of coarse and fine particles & organic matter.

Why do you need compost?

Compost is decomposing organic matter. Composting is a natural process of recycling organic material into a rich mass. Compost is essential to creating the ideal ecosystem. Anything that derives from something living can make up compost. This includes decaying plants, animals, manures, kitchen scraps, garden prunings, bark and sawdust. Adding organic matter/compost improves structure, aiding aeration and drainage. It also encourages life such as earthworms which add nutrients to the your garden bed.

How do I choose the right soil?

If you are gardening in the ground, look for topsoil or a blend. First of all, blends are great for new or existing veggie gardens, or flowerbeds. On the other hand, topsoil is good for mending lawns. Ensure any blend you are looking at includes loam and some form of compost. As long as you are regularly adding your own organic matter or compost to maintain the composition, there is not a great need for fertilizer.

If you are gardening in a container, look for a potting mix. These are generally lighter than actual soil and work better in confined areas. Adding fertilizer when using a container is a good idea as there is a smaller ‘ecosystem’ for your soil to maintain its nutrient levels.

Other great resources

Everybody knows that watering is the most important aspect of garden care. Plants need water to survive, maintain their health and grow. Plants also mostly consist of water. It is essential to the function of their internal systems. However, overwatering can be dangerous or even deadly, so it’s vital to strike the correct balance!

Check Soil Moisture

The most obvious and foolproof method of checking if a plant needs watering is to simply feel the soil, and see if it is moist or dry. To understand this further you can identify the type of soil your plants are growing in. For example, clay soil tends to retain moisture for much longer, whereas sand is the opposite. Knowing the soil type can help with planning watering schedules.

Timing

The time of day you are watering your plants also influences how much water the plants can absorb. The ideal time to water your plants is early in the morning, allowing the plant enough time to absorb the water and convert it into energy as the sun gets hotter.

Keep the leaves dry!

Make sure to aim for the base of the plant, avoiding the leaves and aiming for the roots. Also, aim to get the water deep into the soil. Not only will this limit the amount of water lost to evaporation but also help your plants develop stronger, deeper and more resilient root systems. Light watering forces the roots to become shallow and vulnerable to rotting.

Know your plant’s needs

The best way to learn about your plant’s needs is through experience! While research will help, you’re going to get the best results through trial and error. Each plant is different and will show different signs when they are watered and in good health.

Choose your weapon

There are three main methods to watering your garden: the garden hose, drip irrigation and sprinkler. The hose is the most basic and works best for flower beds and small gardens. Drip irrigation aims to minimise water wastage and allows a slow, steady drip of water, maximising absorption. It works well for garden beds while it is not very effective for lawns, shrubs and trees. The sprinkler system is the most popular of the watering techniques. You can customise your sprinkler system to suit your gardens needs and deliver the correct amount of water at the right time of day!

Additional Links
https://www.maintainme.com.au/how-often-water-plants

Growing your own vegetables can be so rewarding. We’ve collated our top tips to share with you.

Choose a Sunny Location

Most veggies do best in full sunlight. Find a location that gets at least 6 hours a day if possible! To provide the most sun exposure to all your plants, place the tallest ones, such as corn or tomatoes on the north or west side of the gardening space so that they don’t shade the smaller plants.

Use Soil rich in Organic Matter

Vegetables like lots of organic matter and compost in their soil. Aim to add enough organic material to the soil so that it is neither sandy nor compacted. When the mix is right, it will bind together when you squeeze it but break apart easily if disturbed. If you are using a garden bed, you can round the soil in the bed, creating a small arc. This expands the planting area.

Water the right amount!

Most vegetables don’t require a massive amount of water so 2-3cm a week is adequate. The best time to water your veggie garden is first thing in the morning. Be sure to check the moisture in the soil before watering – overwatering is worse than underwatering!

Mulch your veggies

Add a 5-8cm layer of organic mulch around your vegetables. This will insulate the soil keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Mulching helps with water retention, suppressing weeds and diseases, not to mention it looks great. Be careful with your mulch selection, some mulches can contain unacceptable amounts of harmful chemicals. 

Pest control

Pests are usually inevitable at some stage of your gardening career. If you must resort to pesticides, please apply responsibly! Never apply pesticides in the morning as this is when other beneficial insects are most active. Generally, it’s best not to use chemicals in a food garden so try to avoid these.  

Don’t Fertilise

Instead of fertiliser, use organic matter or compost to feed your soil so it can provide the nutrients your veggies need. Up to 20% of your soil can be made up of compost or organic matter. 

Succession Planting

Planting your vegetables in succession allows you to grow more than one crop in a given space throughout the season. That way, many gardeners can harvest three or four different crops from a single area. 

Capitalise on Space

No matter the size of your vegetable garden, you can expand it by growing vertically! Grow space-taking vine crops such as tomatoes, beans, melons or squash on trellises, fences or stakes to increase space. 

Companion Pairing

Another way to maximise space in your vegetable garden is to look into compatible combinations. A classic example is corn, beans and squash. The corn stalks support the beans while the squash grows on the ground below, making the most of the space! 

Other great resources

Here are the 7 most common bugs that can affect indoor plants.

1.Fungus Gnats

Fungus Gnats look like standard black flies and are 2mm long. Their larva is challenging to spot they nest right underneath the soil, the flies themselves will walk over the surface of the soil. They will annoy you more than they harm your plant.

To get rid of them target the larvae in the soil. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings, the eggs and larvae need moisture to survive. Remember to drain any excess water that may have accumulated in saucers.

2. Aphids

Aphids sit on your plant’s leaves and eat the sap. As the infestation gets worse, the aphids will rob the plant of the nutrients it needs to thrive. You can see clusters of them under your plant’s leaves, they are green and try to camouflage, but you can still spot them. You may also notice your plant has sticky leaves as they leave a honey light secretion.

To get rid of them, rinse them off with a steady stream of water, then wash the leaves with a weak solution of soap and water. Soapy water kills aphids on contact.

3. Spider Mites

Spider Mites are difficult to spot, but affected plants lose their lush green colour, becoming grey-brown and dull. If your plant starts to look a bit dead or you notice a bit of webbing in and around the plant, check under the leaves for these tiny redish brown creatures, a magnifying glass will help!

To get rid of them, mix 1tsp of liquid soap with 1L of water and spray your entire plant from top to bottom. Wash off the solution 2-3 hours later, be sure to remove all the soap residue from all foliage surface to avoid any leaf burn. Repeat every 4-7 days until the Mites are gone!

4. Mealybugs

These are not easy to spot, keep an eye out for small cottony spots at the intersections of leaves, stems and under leaves. Suffering plants may drop yellow leaves, and you may notice a wax-like a residue on leaves.

The best way to get rid of them is by hand, you can knock them off your plant with a cotton swab doused in alcohol. After removing any visible bugs, spray the plant with an oil or soap spray.

5. White Flys

White flys are also tricky to spot, they are so small they look like dandruff flakes sprinkled on the plant. You ‘won’t see them without a magnifying glass, you can find their eggs on the underside of leaves though, they look like small crescents.

You will need to tackle White Flies while they are babies if you wait till they mature they will just fly away when you spray them. Spray the plant with a soap solution, pay special attention to the underside of leaves, where most of the whiteflies live. Repeat every 3-4 days until the infestation is gone.

6. Scale Insects

Scale insects are immobile and stick to the leaf of the plant and soak out juices. They usually take the form of a shell or a pearl. If you ‘don’t notice them by sight, you can tell something is wrong by the waxy secretion they leave on the plant.

To get rid of them, prune & dispose of the affected branches, twigs and leaves. If there are not too many, the scale can be picked off by hand. Dabbing them with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab will also work on light infestations. When in pots they should be placed on a surface where they can drain freely, like bricks or paving.

7. Thrips

You will notice discolouration and deformities on your plants before you see the bugs themselves. Thrips are tiny black bugs, so they are quite tricky to spot, they will cut a small place in the plant and lay their eggs, these are also difficult to see. If you notice one of your plants is infested with thrips, you should isolate it from others that ‘aren’t.

To get rid of them spray every 2-3 days with soap spray.

Other great resources

Here are our 10 tips to care for Camellias.

1.Select your Variety Wisely

When selecting which variety of Camellia will best suit your garden, start by looking at the bloom time. If you choose plants with different bloom schedules, you will be able to enjoy them for en extended period. Also, consider how certain varieties will suit your garden space. There is almost always a type of Camellia that will slot into your garden like a missing puzzle piece!

2.Planting

You can plant camellias from Autumn, Winter or Spring. When planting, dig a hole twice as wide, and just as deep as the root ball. Refill the bottom of the hole with 5-10cm of soil and pack it down. Place the plant in the centre of the hole; the roots should be slightly above the ground. Camellias do not grow well when planted too deep!

3.Select the right site

Camellias do best in light shade that protects them from the hot afternoon sun. As the Camellia, they can tolerate more sun. Ensure your chosen location has good drainage, camellias font like having wet feet. The more sheltered from the wind, the better the flowering will be – Try planting your camellias 1-2 meters from your house this will provide proper wind protection.

4.Minimal Watering

Camellias will need decent watering when planted. In hot weather, give the camellias a deep soaking twice a week, a deep soak allows the soil to remain moist for longer. Established plants get by with little supplemental water.

5. Mulch

Mulching will keep moisture in the ground, and keep your soil cooler on hot summer days. Also, mulch keeps weeds at bay. When mulching, don’t pile on too much, 3-5cm is enough. Remember, mulch should not touch the trunk of the plant.

6. Fertilizer

Fertilize Camellias in Spring after the flowers have dropped. Fertilize again in midsummer if the growth seems sluggish, or foliage begins to look sparse and lose its colour.

7. Prune after Bloom

Remove any dead or weak wood, thin out dense growth to allow room for flowers to bloom. Shorten lower branches to encourage upright growth. Cut back the top to make lanky plants bushier.

When in pots they should be placed on a surface where they can drain freely, like bricks or paving.

8.Be vigilant of infestations

Camellias are susceptible to some viruses and fungal diseases. There are two fatal diseases, Root Rot Fungus & Camellia Petal Blight. To avoid root rot, make sure your Camellias’ soil is well-drained. Petal Blight appears in the form of rust spots on the flowers if you spot it to remove any infected buds, remove all mulch surrounding the plant and replace.

9.Shaping

Most plants develop an attractive shape without pruning; however, camellias can be shaped to fit into your garden landscape perfectly. To begin with, remove any thin or disproportionate branches that stick out and don’t look right. Then prune for the general shape.

10.Step back & Enjoy your Hardwork

The Camellia is one of the worlds favourite flowers providing beautiful blooms through autumn, winter and into spring. Even when they are not blooming, they are an excellent addition to any garden, with their attractive dark green glossy evergreen leaves.

Other resources

Here are our 10 tips to care for roses.

1. Know Your Roots

Before planting a rose bush, prune all the branches right back to about 15cm to ensure the plant concentrates its energies on forming a healthy root system. Roses, like all plants, require a robust and vigorous root system to collect water and nutrients.

2. Be Selective

There are lots of different classes of roses, varying in the way they grow, their size and colour. While you may be tempted to fill your whole garden with roses. Be selective with the varieties you choose to include. Allow adequate space between plants. Your garden will love you for it, benefit both your Roses health and a disorderly mismatched garden!

3. Location, Location

Roses like full sunlight, but they can survive on a minimum of 4 hours per day. They also prefer not to be placed in areas with a cold draught or waterlogged ground. Roses prefer neutral soil and flower best in fertile clay soil. If possible positioning roses on the North East side of your house. Do not overcrowd your roses with other plants, they grow best when in a bed of their own at least 90cm apart.

4. Time it Right

The best time to plant roses is in spring, on a calm, cloudy day. Planting on a hot sunny day, or during a summer heatwave can cause the rose stress. For best results, plant bare-rooted roses as soon as possible after purchase.

5. Dig Deep

The size of the hole you plant your rose in is essential to starting a sound root system. When planting a Rosebush, ensure that you dig a much bigger hole than you think you need. Also, ensure you add lots of organic matter or manure. The hole also needs to be deep enough that the graft union (which looks like a knot on the lower stem) will sit 4cm above ground level once planted.

6. Nutrients are essential

To produce an impressive show of flowers, a rose bush needs to be fed regularly. Roses are greedy too so for best results plant them in organic-rich soil, mulch annually with compost, seaweed or manure. Organic fertilizers provide a slow, steady release of nutrients to the plant. However, you will need to feed the roses with a rose fertilizer in Spring & Summer.

7. Water wisely

Soak newly planted roses straight after planting. Continue to soak the entire root zone twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent light sprinklings of water if possible as this does not promote healthy root growth. As the weather cools reduce the amount of water you are giving your roses accordingly. They don’t like to sit in water.

8. Prune like a pro

The best time to prune your roses is from mid-July to early August to promote strong spring growth! When pruning, start by removing all dead and damaged foliage and buds. Next cut back the branches and stems approximately one-third of the previous year’s growth until you find healthy white centres inside the stems.

9. Keep them healthy

The best way to prevent rose diseases is to choose disease-resistant varieties!

If you spot the first signs of black spot, then make sure you treat it right away by removing diseased foliage and burning it. You can avoid powdery Mildew by watering roses at ground level in the morning. This will prevent wet foliage overnight. Pruning will also allow good air circulation. Pesky insects that like to feed on roses can be controlled with insecticides.

10. Show them off!

Roses are famous for their beautiful, fragrant flowers. To preserve harvested roses best, make sure you use sharp scissors when cutting their stems. Try to harvest just as the petals start to open, either in the morning or the evening. Be sure to trim the stems on a diagonal, and remove any lower leaves that fall below the water line before placing them in a vase to enjoy!

There’s a change in the wind. It no longer has the frosty bit of Winter, but the promise of warmer weather that comes with Spring.

When the weather is right, you have to take advantage of it. To help you with this, we’ve got the top 10 plants you should plant this season.

1. Raphiolepis ‘Oriental Pearl’

As a low-growing, dense and evergreen shrub the Oriental Pearl blooms an abundance of white flowers with pink stamens from early Autumn to late Spring. The attractive glossy foliage is dark green and contrasts well with the massed display of flowers.

How to: Find a balance for the Oriental Pearl to grow in full sun to partial shade. The best flowers bloom in full sun. Adaptable to most soils, the Oriental Pearl prefers rich and well drained soil with chunky mulch. Prune only to shape as they have a naturally rounded shape and are suited for a hedge.

2. Chinese Star Jasmine

The highlight of this evergreen climber is the mass of sweetly fragrant, starry white flowers that bloom in Summer. Slow growing in early stages but will flourish when established into glossy and dark green foliage

How to: Best planted in Spring, Star Jasmine needs enough time to settle in before the cold weather hits. Jasmine is fairly easy going when it comes to soil, just make sure that wherever you plant has good drainage. The more sun it gets, the more water it needs to flourish. Water regularly as it establishes.

3. Camellia Sweet Jane

The Camellia Sweet Jane is an Australian Camellia bred for Australian conditions. Camellia’s display a lush double pink bloom over rich green foliage and look stunning when grown in mass.

How to:  Plant your Camellia’s in full sun or part shade. Ensure that your soil is rich and well drained and make sure you regularly water through the first summer.

4. Azalea Encore

In position 4, of our top 10 plants is… the Azalea Encores blooms in Spring, Summer and Autumn.  Drought tolerant, you’ll enjoy a diverse range of bold and beautiful flowers through the seasons.

How to: Give your Azalea’s a little extra water in early Spring as they begin to bloom. This is especially important if the weather has been dry. You should also mulch with chunky bark to reduce water evaporation.

5. Forest Pansy

The perfect tree for gardens and backyards. Forest Pansy redbuds have a lovely and shiny heart shaped leaf that grows in purple and changes to maroon.

How to: Choose your Forest Pansy tree location carefully as they don’t transplant well. Forest Pansies thrive in deep well drained fertile soil. Pick a spot in partial shade if your Summers are hot, and in sunny locations if your Summer is mild.

6. Magnolia Teddy Bear

The Magnolia Teddy Bear is a very compact grower with an upright, conical habit. This plant has medium to large  shiny, dark green oval leaves that produce beautiful and fragrant flowers.

How to: Magnolia’s love sun, so position yours in full sun with shelter from the hot afternoon shade. Magnolias also need protection from the wind – strong winds can bruise their precious flowers. Plant in well-drained soil with added compost and manure.

7. Hebe Pretty ‘n’ Pink

Hebe Pretty ‘n’ Pink is a stunning new release ground cover/ shrub. Fantastic green and burgundy foliage is complemented during Autumn and Winter with an explosion of masses of lovely pink flowers.How to: The Hebe Pretty ‘n’ Pink prefers a sunny or partially shaded position in well-draining soil. Tolerates dry conditions once established. Lightly prune to maintain compactness, but avoid pruning beyond the foliage.

8. Acacia Lime Magik

An Australian native, the Acacia Lime Magik is a large shrub to small tree, with striking hanging, lime green foliage. It produces an abundance of soft yellow flowers throughout late Winter to Spring. An excellent foliage plant that can be used for screening and feature planting.

How to:  The best spot for Acacia Lime Magik is in a sunny and well drained area. Keep the soil constantly moist and prune back one third after flowering.

9. Iberis

An evergreen, spreading, herbaceous perennial producing beautiful, small, pure-white flowers during late Spring. An excellent edging plant for borders or walkways. Also makes an ideal groundcover for smaller areas.

How to: Iberis love a sunny position in watered and well drained soil. Deadhead regularly to encourage continuous blooming.

10. Dwarf Lemon Meyer Tree

Dwarf Citrus trees are ideal for courtyards and pots. Growing less than half the size of a normal citrus tree, they still produce the same ratio of fruit.

How to: Meyer trees need at least six hours of sun. Plant a healthy tree attached to a rootstock. Seed grown trees are often unhealthy and may not reach the point of flowering or produce fruit.  Soil conditions when growing these lemons should be well-draining; however, the soil must hold enough water to remain moist. Allow soil to dry out only slightly between waterings.

Remember that not every garden is suitable for every plant. But, don’t let that stop you! Shop online or visit us in store for advice on how to create your dream garden.

These are our top 10 plants for this season, what do you think?

Every year, every Spring, your gardens lush green and deep foliage is broken with bright flowers.

Right now, something special is happening, thousands upon thousands of colourful Azaleas are blooming, filling gardens with hues of pinks, purples, reds and whites.

Where did the Azalea come from?

Descendents of the Ericaceae family, Azaleas are related to Blueberries and Pieris.  Some of them are even hybrids of Camellias.

There are over 26 varieties across the world, and their origins date back to 70 million years ago. Grown across the world, the Azalea has evolved and what was once known as the native Azalea, has now been crossed with Asian varieties. These hybrid Azaleas are what we know the flower to be today.

How to care for your Azaleas

They are easy to maintain. Extremely popular to grow because they can fit into almost every space in your garden. They are a low maintenance shrub that you can grow as medium sized evergreen hedges or colourful flowering shrubs. You can also pot them to add colour to your decks and balconies.

Give your them a little extra water in early Spring as they begin to bloom. This is especially important if the weather has been dry. You should also mulch with chunky bark to reduce water evaporation. This also helps improve soil, so your Azalea’s can flourish.  This season we have a new breed.

Azalea Kurume

Originally grown on the outskirts of the Japanese city Kurume, it features low and sprawling flowers en masse that create vibrant shades in your garden through Spring. The Kurume is known as the ‘landscaping Azalea,’ and is best for planting in garden beds. Think lush gardens full of free-flowering carpets.

Azalea Encore

The Encore repeatedly blooms in Spring, Summer and Autumn – just when you thought they were over, they come back for more.

Both heat and drought tolerant, the Encore brightens up your garden with a diverse range of bright colours. The Encores are best for specimen planting and garden borders.

With encore blooming cycles and long lasting colour, they are the perfect plant to match the vibrancy of Spring. Visit us in store for advice on which variety is right for you!

Check out Azalea Encore here.

When life gives you lemons, plant a lemon tree.

Citrus trees are some of the easiest fruit trees to grow in your backyard, and you won’t believe all the benefits you’ll receive with this low maintenance plant.

Hint: One of them is health.

If your garden is a blank canvas, the shiny and rich green leaves of a lemon tree set the backdrop for bright pops of yellow. Best of all, lemons last well after they ripen, giving you an endless supply of Vitamin C.

Every Australian backyard needs a lemon tree.  Practical, productive and ornamentally beautiful, lemon trees originally came from India and have become a staple to the Australian family ever since.

Need to know

When to Plant: Autumn
Ground Prep:  Add rich compost to soil before planting
First Harvest: 2-3 years
Sun Exposure: Maximum
Tip: Prune tips after every crop to encourage branching
Ripe and Ready: Full colour and flavour

More than just Vitamin-C rich, lemon is a versatile fruit with many benefits. From sweet treats to medicinal properties, lemons are known for their health benefits. Lemon juice can help heal wounds and other gut issues, and boiled lemonade is an excellent agent to combat colds.

While it’s always good to know that your backyard can help your health, the best thing about lemon trees are all the ways you can eat lemons. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade! We’ve got a twist on the classic lemonade recipe that’s a family favourite – it’s sugar free and healthy!

Lemon Fresca

  • 1tsp of Chia Seeds
  • ½ cup of lemon juice
  • 1 cup water

If you’ve got a spare jar, you’ve got what you need to make lemonade. It’s simple really, add the chia seeds, lemon juice and water to the jar. Put the lid on and shake shake shake until it’s well and truly mixed. Leave overnight, and start your morning right with a healthy dose of lemonade. Kickstarting your day with lemon helps you detox, and gets your metabolism going. It’ll become your morning ritual in no time.

Plant a lemon tree, watch it grow, and enjoy all the good things a lemon tree can do for you and your family.