Gardenias are some of the most beloved plants in Australian gardens. With their glossy green leaves and creamy white flowers, they bring elegance and fragrance to any outdoor space. These plants, renowned for their stunning appearance and sweet scent, are a favourite among gardeners looking to create a tranquil, inviting atmosphere. But to truly make your gardenias shine, pairing them with the right plants is essential. Complementary plants not only enhance the beauty of your garden but also help support the growth and health of your gardenias. Let’s explore how you can create a thriving garden by choosing plants that work well with gardenias.
Understanding Gardenias
Gardenias thrive in specific conditions. Knowing their needs ensures they grow healthy and produce abundant flowers. Here are the key things to remember:
- Light: Gardenias prefer partial shade or filtered sunlight. Too much direct sun can scorch their leaves, while deep shade reduces flowering. The balance of light is critical to maintaining their lush green leaves and profuse blooms.
- Soil: They need well-drained soil with an acidic pH. Adding organic matter, like compost or peat, helps keep the soil rich and moist. Soil preparation is crucial to avoid root rot and other soil-related issues.
- Water: Regular watering is crucial, especially during dry spells. However, avoid waterlogging, which can harm the roots. A consistent watering schedule helps gardenias thrive and produce their iconic blooms.
- Feeding: Gardenias love heavy feeding and it is needed to see success in flowering.
With these basics covered, you can now think about which plants to pair with gardenias to enhance their beauty and support their growth. Thoughtful pairing creates a garden that looks cohesive and thrives as a whole.
Why Pair Gardenias with Other Plants?
Companion planting improves the appearance of your garden while benefiting the plants. Complementary plants:
- Add variety in colour, texture, and height.
- Create microclimates to improve growth.
- Help deter pests and diseases.
- Enhance the overall aesthetic by creating a cohesive and visually appealing garden design.
When choosing plants, ensure they share gardenias’ need for acidic soil and similar light conditions. Here are some great options to consider.
Top Companion Plants for Gardenias
AcidLoving Shrubs
Azaleas and Rhododendrons
These plants thrive in acidic soil, just like gardenias. Azaleas bring a burst of colour to the garden, with blooms in pink, red, or orange. Rhododendrons offer larger flowers and pair well with gardenias’ elegant white blooms. Their overlapping bloom periods create a stunning visual display in your garden.
Camellias
Camellias bloom in autumn and winter, extending your garden’s flowering season. Their soft pink or red flowers contrast beautifully with gardenias’ white blooms. These evergreen shrubs provide year-round interest and serve as a lush backdrop for gardenias.
Ground Covers
Ferns
Ferns’ lush green fronds soften the garden’s look and provide a textural contrast to gardenias’ glossy leaves. Ferns also grow well in shaded areas, making them ideal companions. They help cover bare soil, adding a natural touch to the garden.
Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Heuchera adds a pop of colour with its striking foliage. Choose varieties with burgundy or limegreen leaves to create a stunning contrast. Heuchera thrives in partial shade, making it a perfect ground cover beneath taller plants like gardenias.
ShadeTolerant Perennials
Dichondra repens
A creeping, matforming ground cover with small, kidneyshaped green foliage. It’s perfect as a lawn substitute under trees or low-traffic areas and looks great between paving stones. Dichondra repens thrives in partial shade and is heat and drought-tolerant.
Azalea ‘Alba Magnifica’
This superior variety of Azalea is more sun-tolerant and produces stunning white flowers. It thrives in rich, composted or sandy soil and can be planted in full shade to full sun, adding versatility to your garden design.
Ornamental Grasses
Lomandra
Lomandra is a hardy, clumping grass that thrives in various conditions, including full sun to partial shade. With its fine, arching green foliage and tolerance for drought, it is a versatile addition to garden beds, adding texture and structure while complementing the elegance of gardenias.
Festuca glauca
Festuca glauca, or blue fescue, is a compact, ornamental grass with striking bluegrey foliage. Its lowgrowing habit makes it perfect for edging or as a contrasting ground cover in garden beds. Festuca thrives in welldrained soil and adds a touch of cool-toned elegance to the warm, creamy tones of gardenia blooms.
Designing a Gardenia Bed
Creating a garden bed around your gardenias involves thoughtful planning. Follow these tips to design a space that highlights their beauty:
Layering Techniques
- Place gardenias at the centre or as focal points.
- Use taller shrubs, like camellias, as a backdrop.
- Add ferns or heucheras as ground covers around the base. This layering creates depth and makes the garden look full and balanced.
Colour Themes
For a serene garden, pair white gardenia blooms with soft greens and whites from ferns and Dichondra repens. This combination creates a calming, elegant space.
For contrast, use bright colours like Azalea ‘Alba Magnifica’. Bold colour pairings can make your garden stand out and feel vibrant.
Seasonal Interest
Combine plants that bloom in different seasons to ensure your garden looks vibrant year round. For instance, gardenias bloom in spring and summer, while camellias and Azaleas flower in cooler months. This ensures your garden never lacks colour or interest.
Maintenance Tips for Mixed Plantings
Once your gardenia bed is planted, regular care keeps it thriving. Here’s how to maintain your garden:
- Watering: Water deeply to encourage strong roots. Mulch helps retain moisture and reduce weeds. Adjust watering frequency based on the season and weather conditions.
- Feeding: Use a fertiliser designed for acid-loving plants to keep soil pH suitable for gardenias and their companions. Feed during the growing season to support healthy blooms and foliage.
- Pruning: Trim gardenias after flowering to shape the plant and remove spent blooms. Prune companion plants as needed to maintain balance. Regular pruning keeps your garden looking tidy and encourages new growth.
- Pest Control: Watch for pests like aphids or scale insects. Neem oil or insecticidal soap can help protect your plants. Keeping an eye on pests early prevents them from spreading to other plants.
Wrapping Up
Gardenias are stunning plants that become even more striking when paired with complementary companions. By choosing acidloving shrubs, ground covers, perennials, and ornamental grasses, you can create a garden that’s beautiful and harmonious. Thoughtful design and regular care ensure your gardenia bed thrives for years to come. Companion planting also encourages biodiversity, which benefits all plants in the garden.
Visit Diaco’s Garden Nursery for expert advice and quality plants to bring your vision to life. Our knowledgeable team can help you find the perfect companions for your gardenias. Let us help you create a garden that’s uniquely yours. Happy gardening!
Whether you’re new to gardening or have some experience, shrubs are a fantastic addition to any garden. They add structure, colour, and life all year round. Caring for shrubs might seem a bit daunting at first, but with a little guidance, you’ll find it’s both enjoyable and rewarding. Let’s dive into the art of shrub maintenance together!
Understanding Shrubs
Shrubs are woody plants that are smaller than trees and have multiple stems growing from the base. Unlike herbaceous plants, which die back to the ground each year, shrubs keep their structure throughout the seasons. They’re like the middle child of the plant world—not as tall as trees but sturdier than flowers.
In your garden, shrubs play a vital role. They can create beautiful backdrops for your flower beds, offer privacy from neighbours, and even attract birds and butterflies. Some shrubs have lovely flowers, while others boast colourful leaves or berries. They’re the reliable friends in your garden that keep things interesting all year long.
There’s a shrub for every spot in your garden. Evergreen shrubs keep their leaves all year, providing constant colour. Deciduous shrubs lose their leaves in winter but often have stunning flowers in spring or brilliant foliage in autumn. You can choose flowering shrubs like roses, foliage shrubs like boxwood, or fruit-bearing ones like currants.
Essential Tools for Shrub Maintenance
Before you start, it’s important to have the right tools. You’ll need pruners (also known as secateurs) for cutting small branches and stems, loppers with long handles for thicker branches, a pruning saw for even larger branches, and hedge shears for shaping and trimming hedges. You don’t have to spend a fortune; look for good-quality tools that fit your budget.
Gardening is fun, but safety matters too. Always wear gloves to protect your hands, and consider eye protection when cutting branches. Proper footwear can prevent slips and trips. Keep your tools clean and sharp—they’ll work better and last longer.
The Basics of Pruning
Pruning helps your shrubs stay healthy and look their best. It encourages new growth, more flowers, and can prevent diseases. Think of it like giving your shrub a haircut—it keeps it neat and promotes good health.
Different shrubs grow in different ways. Some bloom on new growth, while others bloom on old wood. Knowing this helps you prune correctly. For example, if you prune a shrub that blooms on old wood at the wrong time, you might cut off next year’s flowers!
The best time to prune depends on the type of shrub. Spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned right after they finish blooming. Summer-flowering shrubs are best pruned in late winter or early spring. Evergreen shrubs can handle light pruning almost any time, but late spring is usually best.
Pruning Techniques
Here’s a simple step-by-step guide to pruning your shrubs:
First, assess the shrub’s overall health. Look for dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Remove these problem branches first to prevent the spread of disease and to promote healthy growth.
Next, thin out any overcrowded areas to improve air circulation within the shrub. This helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases and allows light to reach all parts of the plant.
Finally, shape the shrub by trimming back branches to achieve a neat appearance, following the shrub’s natural form.
Be careful not to over-prune, as removing too much can stress the plant. Avoid topping, which is cutting off the top of the shrub; this can lead to weak growth. Instead, focus on thinning and shaping.
Remember to use sharp tools for clean cuts and disinfect your tools between plants to prevent spreading diseases. Step back often to check your work and ensure you’re achieving the desired shape.
Shaping Your Shrubs
Shaping shrubs adds beauty to your garden. You can keep them looking natural or trim them into formal shapes. It’s like sculpting with plants! Techniques vary depending on the shape you want to achieve.
For spherical or conical shapes, use hedge shears to trim evenly all around the shrub. When creating hedges, keep the top narrower than the base to let light reach the lower branches. For the adventurous gardener, topiary involves creating fun shapes like animals or spirals, though this takes practice.
Imagine a row of neatly trimmed boxwood balls lining a pathway or a whimsical topiary in the shape of a bird. These touches make your garden unique and delightful.
Seasonal Care for Shrubs
In spring, prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade. Apply fertiliser to encourage growth and add mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds. In summer, keep the soil moist, especially during dry spells, and check for insects or diseases. Light pruning can tidy up the shrubs as needed.
During autumn, trim summer-flowering shrubs and remove fallen leaves to prevent diseases. Consider windbreaks for exposed shrubs to protect them from harsh weather. In winter, use mulch or covers for sensitive shrubs to provide frost protection. Hold off on pruning during winter, as it can stimulate growth that’s vulnerable to frost.
Dealing with Common Shrub Issues
Common pests include aphids, caterpillars, and mites. You can often remove them by hand or use natural remedies like soapy water sprays. Fungal diseases can be a problem; ensure good air circulation and avoid wetting leaves when watering. If disease occurs, remove affected parts and dispose of them properly.
Environmental stress factors like too much sun, wind, or poor soil can stress shrubs. Choose the right shrub for your conditions and adjust care practices as needed.
Fertilising and Soil Care
Shrubs need nutrients to thrive. Signs of nutrient deficiency include yellowing leaves or poor growth. You can nourish your shrubs with organic options like compost or well-rotted manure, or synthetic options like balanced slow-release fertilisers. Always follow the instructions on the package.
Good soil makes for happy shrubs. Add compost to improve soil structure and check the pH balance. Most shrubs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.
Watering Techniques
Proper watering is essential. Water deeply to encourage roots to grow down, and let the topsoil dry out between waterings. Early morning is the best time to water to reduce evaporation.
Mulch helps keep the soil moist and cool. Organic mulches like bark chips also add nutrients as they break down.
To conserve water, consider using rain barrels to collect rainwater for watering, choose drought-tolerant shrubs, and use drip irrigation to deliver water directly to the roots.
Selecting the Right Shrubs for Your Garden
Assess your garden’s conditions, considering sunlight exposure, soil type, and space. Think about how big the shrub will get and whether it suits the spot you have in mind.
For beginners, consider shrubs like lavender, which loves sun and well-drained soil; holly, an evergreen with bright berries; or hydrangea, which offers beautiful blooms and fairly easy care.
Planting a mix of shrubs encourages biodiversity. Native shrubs are great for supporting local ecosystems and attracting wildlife like birds and butterflies.
Wrapping Up
Caring for shrubs is a blend of art and science. With the right techniques, you can keep your shrubs healthy and your garden looking splendid. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn as you go. Gardening is a journey, and every season brings new lessons.
If you’re keen on making your garden look fantastic all year round, you’ve come to the right place. We’re excited to share with you how shrubs can transform your outdoor space into a beautiful and welcoming haven. Shrubs are amazing plants that can add shape, colour, and even create different areas in your garden. Let’s explore how you can use them to make your garden truly special.
Why Shrubs Are Important
Shrubs are like the unsung heroes of the garden world. They aren’t as tall as trees or as small as flowers, fitting perfectly into many garden designs. With their woody stems and a variety of shapes and sizes, shrubs can play many roles in your garden.
First, they provide structure. This means they help define the layout of your garden, giving it a clear shape and form. Second, many shrubs offer beauty throughout the year. They might bloom in spring, have colourful leaves in autumn, or display bright berries in winter. Lastly, shrubs can help local wildlife. Birds and butterflies often use shrubs for food and shelter, so you’re also supporting nature by planting them.
Creating Different Areas with Shrubs
Have you ever thought about dividing your garden into different “rooms”? This idea involves creating separate spaces for relaxing, playing, or even growing vegetables. Shrubs are excellent for this because they can act like natural walls without making your garden feel closed off.
For example, shrubs like boxwood or privet can be trimmed into neat hedges that mark the boundaries of an area. Flowering shrubs like camellias add colour while also separating spaces. When planting shrubs for this purpose, remember to give them enough room to grow. Plant them at the right distance apart so they don’t crowd each other. Regular trimming will keep them healthy and looking their best.
Tall shrubs like laurels or photinias can provide privacy, making your garden feel like a peaceful retreat. They can block out sights and sounds from neighbouring areas, giving you a cosy spot to relax.
Designing Borders with Shrubs
Borders are the edges of your garden beds, and shrubs can make them stand out. One way to create interesting borders is by layering plants of different heights. Think of it like arranging people for a group photo: taller ones at the back, medium in the middle, and shorter at the front.
At the back, you might plant tall shrubs like lilacs or forsythias. In the middle, medium-sized shrubs such as hydrangeas work well. At the front, low-growing shrubs like lavender or heathers add a finishing touch. This layering creates depth and makes your garden look fuller and more interesting.
Mixing different colours and textures adds even more appeal. Choose shrubs with various leaf colours—like golden, purple, or multi-coloured leaves—to create eye-catching contrasts. Combining plants with smooth leaves and those with feathery or rough leaves adds texture.
To keep your garden lively all year, select shrubs that shine in different seasons. In spring, azaleas and rhododendrons burst into bloom. Summer brings the vibrant flowers of buddleias and roses. Autumn showcases the fiery leaves of maples and burning bush shrubs. Even in winter, holly bushes with red berries or dogwoods with colourful branches can brighten up your garden.
Making Shrubs the Star of Your Garden
Some shrubs are so unique and beautiful that they can become the main attraction in your garden. For example, a Japanese maple has delicate leaves and stunning autumn colours. A magnolia offers large, fragrant flowers that can be a real showstopper. Place these special shrubs where they can be easily seen and enjoyed.
Shrubs can also highlight other features in your garden. Climbing roses grown over an archway create a romantic entrance. Lavender planted along a path adds colour and a lovely scent, guiding visitors through your garden.
Adding Functionality with Shrubs
Shrubs do more than just look good—they can also make your garden more practical. Some shrubs help the environment by preventing soil erosion. For instance, willows have strong roots that hold the soil together, which is especially useful on slopes.
Dense shrubs can act as windbreaks, reducing the impact of strong winds. This protects other plants and makes your garden more comfortable. By planting shrubs that provide food and shelter, like elderberries and rowans, you can attract birds and butterflies, turning your garden into a lively ecosystem.
If you prefer a garden that’s easy to care for, choose hardy, low-maintenance shrubs. Drought-tolerant plants like grevilleas and callistemons (bottlebrushes) don’t need much watering and are perfect for dry conditions. Shrubs like lilly pilly (Syzygium species) and westringia (native rosemary) are tough and can handle different weather conditions, making them ideal choices for an easy-care garden. These native shrubs not only require minimal maintenance but also support local wildlife and add a unique Australian touch to your garden.
Tips for Choosing and Planting Shrubs
Before you head out to pick your shrubs, take a good look at your garden. Check the type of soil you have—is it sandy, clay, or somewhere in between? Notice how much sunlight different areas get. Some shrubs love full sun, while others prefer shade. Think about how much space you have and remember that shrubs will grow larger over time.
When planting shrubs, dig a hole that’s twice as wide as the plant’s pot and just as deep. Mixing some compost into the soil gives the shrub extra nutrients to help it grow. After planting, water the shrub well to help it settle in.
Taking care of your shrubs is important to keep them healthy and looking good. Prune them by cutting back any dead or overgrown branches. This encourages new growth and helps the shrub keep its shape. Feeding them with a slow-release fertiliser in the spring gives them a boost. Adding mulch around the base helps keep the soil moist and prevents weeds.
Inspiration and Ideas
If you’re looking for fragrant shrubs to enhance your garden, consider planting gardenias or mock orange (Murraya paniculata) near paths or seating areas where you can enjoy their lovely scent. For striking colours, grevilleas and bottlebrushes (Callistemon species) offer vibrant flowers that attract birds and make your garden burst with life. Evergreen shrubs like lilly pilly (Syzygium species) and westringia (native rosemary) stay green all year, providing constant colour and structure.
You can also have fun with themed gardens. A sensory garden might include aromatic shrubs like boronia and lavender, along with plants that have interesting textures such as banksias and hakeas. Or create a colour-themed garden, like an Australian native garden featuring plants like kangaroo paw, waratah, and waxflower for a stunning effect.
Don’t be afraid to get creative with your shrub choices. Mixing different types of shrubs can add depth and personality to your garden. Consider the local climate and soil conditions when selecting plants to ensure they will thrive in your area. Remember, the key is to choose shrubs that you love and that will bring you joy throughout the year.
Wrapping Up
Shrubs are truly wonderful plants that can make a big difference in your garden. They add structure, beauty, and can even help the environment. By choosing the right shrubs and placing them thoughtfully, you can enjoy a garden that’s beautiful in every season.
Remember, gardening is all about expressing yourself and enjoying the process. Don’t be afraid to try new things and see what works best for you. Whether you’re planting your first shrub or redesigning your whole garden, have fun with it!
There’s something really special about growing your own food. Watching a tiny seed turn into a plant full of tomatoes or basil, and then using what you’ve grown to make a delicious meal, is a great feeling. Tomatoes and basil are not only easy to grow but also super tasty in lots of dishes. In this blog, we’ll show you how to plant, care for, and cook with your very own tomatoes and basil. It’s all about enjoying the freshest flavours right from your garden to your table.
The Basics of Growing Tomatoes and Basil
Choosing the Right Varieties
Before you begin planting, it’s essential to choose the right varieties of tomatoes and basil that suit your taste preferences, climate, and space. For tomatoes, options abound, from sweet cherry tomatoes that burst with flavour to hearty heirlooms that are perfect for slicing. If you prefer making sauces, Roma tomatoes are an excellent choice due to their meaty texture. On the basil front, sweet basil, particularly the Genovese variety, is a classic pairing with tomatoes, while Thai basil offers a more exotic flavour for those who enjoy a bit of spice.
Starting from Seed vs. Seedlings
When it comes to starting your tomato and basil plants, you have two main options: growing from seed or purchasing seedlings. Starting from seed gives you complete control over the growing process and offers a wider variety of choices. It’s a bit more time-consuming but deeply rewarding. To start seeds indoors, you’ll need a good quality seed-starting mix, small pots or seed trays, and a sunny windowsill or grow lights. Sow the seeds about 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost in your area.
On the other hand, if you’re looking for a quicker start, purchasing seedlings from a nursery is a great option. Look for healthy, strong seedlings with vibrant green leaves and sturdy stems. Whether you start from seeds or seedlings, the key to success is giving your young plants the right care as they grow.
Preparing Your Garden or Containers
Tomatoes and basil thrive in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with plenty of sunlight. Before planting, prepare your garden bed by adding compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil. If you’re gardening in containers, choose pots that are at least 30 cm in diameter for tomatoes, as they need plenty of space to develop strong roots. Basil can be grown in slightly smaller pots, but ensure they have good drainage.
When selecting a location, remember that both tomatoes and basil need full sun, meaning at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. If space is limited, container gardening is a practical solution, allowing you to move the plants to catch the best sun.
Planting and Caring for Tomatoes and Basil
Planting Techniques
Once your garden or containers are ready, it’s time to plant. If you’re transplanting seedlings, carefully remove them from their pots, being mindful not to damage the roots. Plant tomatoes deep, burying part of the stem to encourage a stronger root system. Basil, however, should be planted at the same depth it was growing in its pot.
Tomatoes and basil are excellent companion plants, as they enhance each other’s growth and flavour. Plant them close together, but give each plant enough space to spread out—about 45-60cm between tomato plants and 30cm between basil plants.
Watering, Feeding, and Pruning
Proper watering is crucial for healthy plants. Tomatoes prefer deep, infrequent watering, which encourages the roots to grow deep into the soil. Water them at the base to keep the foliage dry, reducing the risk of disease. Basil needs consistent moisture but be careful not to overwater. The soil should be damp but not waterlogged.
Feeding your plants regularly will keep them vigorous. A balanced fertiliser works well for both tomatoes and basil, applied every 2-4 weeks. Tomatoes may benefit from a boost of calcium to prevent blossom end rot.
Pruning is essential for tomatoes to encourage better fruit production. Remove the “suckers” that grow in the crotch between the stem and a branch to focus the plant’s energy on producing fruit. Basil, on the other hand, should be regularly harvested to prevent it from flowering, which can make the leaves taste bitter.
Dealing with Pests and Diseases
No garden is entirely free from pests and diseases, but with a little vigilance, you can keep them in check. Common tomato pests include aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies. These can be controlled with natural predators like ladybugs or by using organic insecticidal soap.
Basil may attract aphids or Japanese beetles, which can be managed similarly. Fungal diseases like blight or powdery mildew can affect tomatoes, so ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Basil is generally hardy but can suffer from downy mildew in humid conditions. In both cases, organic fungicides can help if the issue persists.
Harvesting Your Homegrown Tomatoes and Basil
When and How to Harvest Tomatoes
Harvesting tomatoes at the right time ensures the best flavour. For most varieties, the fruit is ready when it’s fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch. Cherry tomatoes are best picked just before they’re fully ripe, as they’ll continue to ripen off the vine. Larger varieties should be picked when they have a uniform colour and a slight give when gently squeezed.
To harvest, use garden scissors or gently twist the fruit from the vine to avoid damaging the plant. Store your tomatoes at room temperature—never in the fridge, as cold temperatures can dull their flavour.
Harvesting and Storing Basil
Basil should be harvested regularly to keep the plant bushy and productive. The best time to harvest is in the morning when the oils in the leaves are most concentrated, but after the dew has dried. Snip off the top leaves, just above a pair of leaves, to encourage the plant to produce more.
If you find yourself with more than enough basil, there are several ways to store it. You can freeze the leaves, either whole or as a pesto, or dry them by hanging small bunches in a cool, dark place.
From Garden to Kitchen: Cooking with Tomatoes and Basil
Simple and Delicious Recipes
Now that you’ve successfully grown and harvested your tomatoes and basil, it’s time to enjoy them in the kitchen. Here are some easy, flavourful recipes that highlight the fresh, homegrown goodness of these ingredients:
Fresh Tomato and Basil Salad
This simple salad is a celebration of fresh flavours. Slice your ripe tomatoes and arrange them on a plate. Top with torn basil leaves, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a splash of balsamic vinegar, and a sprinkle of sea salt. For an added treat, include slices of fresh mozzarella.
Classic Tomato Basil Pasta Sauce
Start by sautéing garlic in olive oil until fragrant. Add chopped tomatoes and let them simmer until they break down into a sauce. Stir in a handful of chopped basil, season with salt and pepper, and serve over your favourite pasta. This sauce can be made in large batches and frozen for later use.
Caprese Salad
Another classic that showcases the partnership of tomatoes and basil. Layer slices of tomato and fresh mozzarella on a plate, then top with basil leaves, olive oil, balsamic reduction, and a pinch of salt. This dish is as beautiful as it is delicious.
Homemade Pizza with Tomato and Basil
Make a simple pizza dough and top it with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and plenty of basil leaves. Bake until the crust is golden and the cheese is bubbly. For an extra burst of flavour, drizzle with olive oil and scatter fresh basil on top just before serving.
Basil Pesto
Pesto is a versatile sauce that can be used on pasta, sandwiches, or as a dip. Blend fresh basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese, and olive oil until smooth. Adjust the consistency with more oil if needed, and season with salt to taste.
Preserving Your Harvest
To extend the enjoyment of your garden’s bounty, consider preserving your tomatoes and basil. Tomatoes can be canned, dried, or frozen. For canning, make a simple sauce or preserve whole tomatoes to use in winter dishes. Basil can be turned into pesto and frozen in small portions, or the leaves can be dried and stored in an airtight container.
The Joy of Growing Your Own Food
The Rewards of Home Gardening
Growing your own tomatoes and basil isn’t just about having fresh ingredients at your fingertips. It’s about the deep satisfaction that comes from nurturing plants and the connection to the food on your plate. Homegrown often tastes superior, not to mention fresher than store-bought, and then there’s nothing quite like announcing at the dinner table that the meal is homemade and homegrown.
Sharing your harvest with friends and family, or even trading with fellow gardeners, is another joy of home gardening. Whether it’s a jar of homemade tomato sauce or a bundle of fresh basil, these gifts are always appreciated.
If you’ve been thinking about starting a garden, now is the perfect time for spring and summer. Tomatoes and basil are fantastic for beginners—they’re easy to grow and incredibly rewarding. Plus, there are plenty of resources out there, from your local nursery to YouTube videos and online communities.
Wrapping Up
At Diaco’s, we believe that growing your own tomatoes and basil is a fun and rewarding experience. Whether you’re making a simple salad, a tasty pasta sauce, or a homemade pizza, nothing beats the flavour of homegrown food. So why not start your own garden? Growing from seed to harvest is something anyone can do, and we’re here to help you along the way.
Winter season can mean many things – puffy jackets, hot chocolates and staying inside. But us garden lovers know that it really means Camellia season! Welcome to Diaco’s top picks for Camellia varieties that will turn your garden into a true floral haven! We’ve gathered a mix of timeless classics and exciting new favourites, each bringing its own unique charm to your green space. Whether you’re looking to add a splash of colour, create a calm floral retreat, or build a natural privacy screen, our selection has the perfect camellia for every garden lover.
Why Gardeners Love Camellias
Camellias are a top pick for any garden, loved by many for good reasons. These evergreen shrubs keep your garden looking lively all year with their shiny, deep green leaves and beautiful flowers that bloom from autumn to spring, when most other plants don’t.
Camellias come in many colours and shapes, making them perfect for adding a splash of colour or creating a natural screen for privacy with their shrubby and small tree-growing habit. They’re tough plants that can grow well in different places, though they like slightly acidic and well-drained soil the best. Camellias are also easy to take care of once they’ve settled in, which makes them a great choice if you’re new to gardening.
Adding camellias to your garden not only makes it more beautiful but also brings a classic, elegant feel. If you want to brighten up your garden, add some privacy, or just have something pretty to look at during the colder months, camellias are definitely worth considering.
So, without further ado, let’s dive into our list and find the ideal camellia to brighten your garden with stunning blooms and year-round beauty!
1. Camellia sasanqua ‘Early Pearly’
The delightful Camellia Early Pearly is a vision in white, offering elegance and structure with its bushy, upright form. Its dark green, glossy leaves beautifully accentuate the pure white blossoms that burst into life from early autumn. Ideal for creating narrow hedges or espaliers, this variety adds a touch of sophistication to any garden.
2. Camellia japonica ‘Volunteer’
The Volunteer Camellia, or ‘Jur01’, is a hybrid variety that starts the blooming season with deep, rich pink flowers edged in white. As the season progresses, the blooms deepen to a dark pink-red, providing a stunning display. This variety is not only a visual treat but also low maintenance, making it a favourite for both new and seasoned gardeners.
3. Camellia sasanqua ‘Slimline’ Avalanche
Part of the Paradise® collection, the Slimline™ Camellia is a real gem for those tight spaces in your garden. Its upright and slender form is reminiscent of a ballet dancer, perfect for a neat hedge or a narrow garden bed. The early autumn brings a flurry of double white flowers, adding a touch of elegance.
4. Camellia ‘Sweet Jane’
Sweet Jane is an Australian breed that stuns with its six-month floral display. From autumn to early spring, rose pink buds open into small to medium-sized white blooms, subtly blushed with soft pastel pink. Its dense, upright habit and newer coppery growth keep the garden lively even outside the main blooming seasons.
5. Camellia sasanqua ‘Marge Miller’
The first ground cover Camellia, Marge Miller, captivates with its double pink blooms cascading over rich green, glossy foliage. It’s a showstopper when planted en masse, creating a lush and vibrant carpet that enhances the garden’s depth and beauty. This variety is perfect for covering larger areas or draping over walls and garden edges, adding a romantic touch.
6. Camellia japonica Brushfield’s Yellow
Brushfield’s Yellow Camellia is a unique addition to our top picks, celebrated for its stunning, creamy yellow flowers that feature a lush, double form with ruffled petals. The blooms stand out against the glossy, dark green foliage, making it a striking choice for any garden. This variety adds a splash of soft colour to the typically pink, red, and white hues found in camellia collections. Ideal for those looking to introduce a subtle yet distinctive colour contrast in their planting scheme.
7. Camellia sasanqua ‘Paradise Blush’
Paradise Blush is a standout with its vibrant pink blossoms that appear to glow against the dark foliage. It’s a robust grower, known for its resilience and ability to thrive under a variety of garden conditions. The intense colour of its flowers makes it an excellent choice for adding visual interest to winter gardens.
8. Camellia sasanqua ‘Setsugekka’
Setsugekka is renowned for its large, ruffled white flowers that make a dramatic statement throughout the winter months. Its striking blooms are complemented by a sturdy, evergreen form that holds its own in any landscape. Often used in moon gardens, its white flowers reflect moonlight beautifully, creating a luminous effect at night.
9. Camellia sasanqua ‘Hiryu’
The Hiryu variety features striking deep red flowers, making it a bold choice for gardeners looking to add a splash of colour. Its vigorous growth and ability to form dense hedges or screens make it as functional as it is beautiful. Hiryu is also known for its excellent tolerance to both heat and cold, making it versatile for various climate zones.
10. Camellia japonica ‘Pope John XXIII’
Camellia japonica ‘Pope John XXIII’ is a distinguished variety, known for its large, immaculately white flowers with a hint of pink on the petals. The blooms are notably lush and peony-shaped, creating a dramatic visual impact in any garden setting. Its elegant and vibrant appearance makes it a favourite among camellia enthusiasts seeking to add a touch of sophistication and tranquillity to their garden landscapes.
General Care for Camellias
Watering: At Diaco’s, we love how camellias can fit beautifully into any garden setting, whether planted in the ground or in pots. To start, water your camellias well before planting to ease their transition to a new home
Soil: When it comes to the garden bed, camellias like soil that drains well and is a bit acidic, with a pH of 6-6.5. Using a potting mix specifically designed for camellias or acid-loving plants can be beneficial because it ensures the ideal soil structure and pH level right from the start. These mixes often contain organic material that improves drainage while retaining sufficient moisture, and they help to maintain the acidity that camellias need to absorb nutrients effectively, promoting healthier growth and more vibrant blooms.
Sunlight: Camellias perform best in partly shady to sunny spots. If they’re in pots, you can easily move them to catch the ideal amount of sunlight. It’s important to note that Sasanqua varieties can tolerate more sun than Japonicas, which prefer a bit more shade. Remember to keep the soil moist, adjusting your watering routine with the weather—more in the hot months and less in winter. Once established, camellias become quite low maintenance regarding water needs, especially those in pots.
Fertiliser: Come spring, it’s time to feed them with a slow-release fertiliser, making sure to apply it around the outer edges of the plant to avoid damage to the roots.
Pruning: Pruning isn’t just about keeping your camellias tidy; it’s about promoting healthier, bushier growth. These plants are generally resistant to diseases and pests, making them a worry-free choice for your garden.
For more on growing camellias, read up on our top 10 care tips here.
Wrapping Up
So, why not embark on your camellia journey today? You just have the tough gig of narrowing down your choices! Come down to Diaco’s Garden Nursery or shop online, where we’re ready to assist you in selecting the perfect Camellias for your garden. We offer expert advice and support to ensure your garden flourishes beautifully. Join us and let your gardening adventure blossom!
Do fallen leaves make good mulch for your garden? We hear this question quite a bit around here at Diaco’s. Who doesn’t want to get the most out of what nature gives us—especially when it’s free and reduces waste! The answer, dear gardening friends, is a yes. And, no, sometimes. In this guide, we’ll show you the ropes of using those autumnal treasures to enrich your garden.
Think of it as a way to not just beautify your outdoor space but also embrace a more sustainable approach to gardening.
So, let’s get down to business and explore how you can turn your yard into an eco-friendly haven with nothing more than the leaves Mother Nature drops at your doorstep.
What is Mulch and Why is it Good for My Garden?
Mulch is like a superhero for your garden, offering loads of benefits whether it’s made from natural stuff like wood chips and leaves or from man-made materials like gravel and rubber chips.
Here’s why mulch is fantastic for your garden:
- Keeps Moisture: Mulch acts like a sponge, holding water in the soil so you don’t have to water your plants as often. This is super helpful when it’s really dry or you’re in a place that doesn’t get much rain.
- Stops Weeds: It also acts like a shield, blocking sunlight from reaching weeds that want to grow. This means you spend less time weeding and more time enjoying your garden.
- Keeps Soil Temperate: Mulch helps keep the soil temperature steady, protecting plant roots from getting too hot in summer or too cold in winter, which means your plants grow better.
- Feeds the Soil: As natural mulch breaks down, it turns into food for the soil, making it really rich and great for plants to grow in.
By using mulch, you’re not just making your garden look good, you’re also making it healthier and easier to take care of!
Navigating the Challenges of Leaf Mulch
When using leaves as mulch, it’s handy to know some of the issues you might face. Here’s a quick guide to solving common leaf mulch problems so you can make the most of it in your garden:
- Stopping Soil Suffocation: Wet leaves can stick together and block air and water from reaching the soil, which can harm your plants. Solution: Chop up the leaves before you use them as mulch to keep the soil airy and moist.
- Balancing Soil Nutrients: Leaves from different trees have different nutrients. Using just one type of leaf might not give your soil what it needs. Solution: Mix leaves from various trees or compost them first to balance the nutrients before you spread them on your garden.
- Avoiding Weed Seeds: Sometimes, leaves can bring weed seeds into your garden, which might grow and crowd out your plants. Solution: Use leaves from areas without weeds, or compost the leaves at high temperatures to kill any seeds.
- Keeping Rodents Away: Thick layers of leaf mulch might attract rodents looking for a home, which isn’t good for your garden. Solution: Don’t pile the mulch too high (about 5-7.5 cm is good), and keep it away from the stems and trunks of plants.
- Preventing Disease Spread: If leaves from diseased plants get into your mulch, they can spread illness to your garden. Solution: Always check the leaves for signs of disease before you use them, and don’t mulch with any that look infected.
- Regular Top-Ups: Leaf mulch breaks down over time, so you’ll need to add more to keep it effective. Solution: Plan to add fresh mulch regularly to keep your garden protected and nourished.
- Meeting Plant Needs: Some plants might not do well under a leaf mulch if they need lots of sunlight or specific soil conditions. Solution: Adjust how you mulch to make sure it suits the different plants in your garden.
By tackling these issues, you’ll make the best use of leaf mulch and help your garden stay healthy and beautiful.
The Right Tools for Leaf Mulching
Turning leaves into mulch is a breeze when you’ve got the right tools. Here’s a list of the most helpful ones. Remember, you don’t need all of them – just choose the tools that will work best for the types of leaves you have, the size of your garden, and your local weather.
- Mulching Mowers: These mowers are great if you want a simple, effective way to mulch. They chop leaves into tiny pieces that break down fast and feed your lawn.
- Leaf Shredders and Chippers: If you’ve got loads of leaves or branches, these machines are perfect. They chop up everything into small bits that make excellent mulch.
- Garden Shredders: These are good for making uniform mulch out of mixed organic materials, giving you a consistent texture that’s easy to spread around your garden.
- Leaf Blowers with Mulching Functions: Super versatile, these tools suck up leaves, chop them up, and get them ready to use as mulch, all in one go.
- Garden Forks and Rakes: You’ll need these for spreading your mulch evenly. They help make sure it doesn’t get too packed down, so your soil can still breathe.
- Wheelbarrows or garden carts: Essential for moving mulch around, especially if you’re covering a big area. They save you loads of time and effort.
Pick the tools that match your garden’s needs, and mulching will feel like a piece of cake!Step-by-Step: Transforming Leaf Litter into Garden Gold
Step-by-Step: Transforming Leaf Litter into Garden Gold
Embrace the process of converting leaf litter into a nurturing mulch with these simple steps. It’s really quite simple, and preparation is key.
1. Prepare Your Garden: Begin by removing any large debris, such as sticks and stones, that could interfere with mulching. This ensures a clean canvas for your leaf mulch.
2. Choose Your Mulching Method: Depending on your garden’s size and your preferences, select the most suitable tool, whether it’s a mulching mower for a small yard or a chipper for a larger space..
3. Shred the Leaves: Use your chosen tool to shred the leaves. If using a mower, adjust it to a higher setting to avoid damaging the grass while blending the leaves.
4. Apply the Mulch: Spread the shredded leaves around your plants in a layer 2-3 inches thick. This ensures adequate protection without suffocating the soil.
5. Water the Mulched Area: Gently water the newly applied mulch to help it settle. This also aids in initiating the decomposition process, enriching the soil underneath.
Seasonal Mulching Tips
Here in Australia, the weather can change a lot depending on where you are and the time of year. It’s smart to change how you use leaf mulch through the seasons to really help your garden grow:
- Spring: After the mild winter, spring is a great time to get your garden ready for new plants. Use any leftover mulch to make the soil rich and ready for planting. Check if you need more mulch and add some if necessary to help with the spring growth.
- Summer: It gets really hot and dry, so mulching is key to keep your garden’s soil moist and cool. Spread a fresh layer of leaf mulch to help the soil hold onto water and protect the plant roots from the heat. Just make sure not to pile on too much, or it might trap too much heat and stress the plants.
- Autumn: This is the best time to mulch because lots of trees drop their leaves. Gather and shred these leaves to put fresh mulch in your garden. This helps keep your plants warm over the cooler months and improves the soil as the leaves break down.
- Winter: In the warmer parts of Australia, like the coast and the north, putting down some mulch in winter can keep the soil from getting too cold and help it stay moist without getting soggy. In colder areas, be careful not to make the mulch layer too thick, which could keep the soil too cold and wet, hurting the plant roots.
Remember to tweak how and when you mulch based on your local weather and what your garden needs throughout the year to keep it looking great.
Wrapping Up
Leaf mulching is an effective way to enrich your garden soil, conserve water, and reduce waste. By understanding the potential challenges and how to overcome them, you can ensure your garden benefits fully from this natural, sustainable practice. So, grab those rakes and mowers, and let’s give back to our gardens with the gift of leaf mulch.
Mulch is practically magic in your garden toolkit. It’s the unsung hero that keeps those pesky weeds at bay, locks in that precious moisture, and gives your garden that lush, healthy glow. But, with a whole world of mulch out there, finding the perfect match for your green babies might feel a tad overwhelming. Fear not, for this guide is your golden ticket. Whether you’re dipping your toes into gardening or you’ve got soil deep under your fingernails from years of experience, we’ve got your back. Discover how the right mulch can elevate your garden from mere land to wonderland. With a pinch of Diaco’s wisdom and a dash of your gardening zest, we’re on our way to making your garden the envy of the block. So, let’s dive in, get our hands a bit dirty, and transform your garden into a slice of paradise. It’s time to unlock the secrets of mulching.
What is mulch?
Mulch is material you put on top of the soil around plants offering protection and a boost to plant growth. It locks in moisture, fends off weeds, keeps soil temperatures consistent, and overall, contributes to healthier, happier plants. Mulch can be a product of living sources such as wood chips, straw, and leaves—these are known as organic mulches. They break down over time, enriching the soil with nutrients. Then there’s inorganic mulch, made from non-living materials like gravel and rubber chips, which doesn’t decompose but still offers protective benefits.
When to use mulch?
Mulch is crucial for both new and existing plants. For new plants, it helps create a stable environment to support their initial growth by regulating soil temperature, retaining moisture, and reducing weed competition. This nurturing environment is vital for their successful establishment in the garden.
For existing plants, mulch continues to offer these benefits, contributing to their ongoing health and vitality. It maintains soil moisture, which is essential during dry periods, suppresses weeds that can compete for nutrients, and helps keep soil temperatures consistent. As organic mulch breaks down, it also improves soil structure and adds nutrients, which can enhance plant growth over time.
Spotting the Telltale Signs Your Garden Craves Mulch
Recognising when your plants might need mulch is key to maintaining a healthy garden. Here are some signs to watch for:
- Dry Soil: If the soil around your plants dries out quickly after watering, it’s a sign that mulch could help. Mulch helps retain soil moisture by reducing evaporation.
- Weed Growth: An increase in weeds around your plants indicates that mulch could be beneficial. Mulch acts as a barrier, suppressing weed germination and growth.
- Soil Temperature Fluctuations: If the soil temperature in your garden seems to vary widely between day and night, mulch can help moderate these fluctuations, providing a more stable environment for plant roots.
- Soil Erosion: If you notice soil washing away from plant roots, especially on slopes or in heavy rain areas, mulch can help prevent erosion by shielding the soil from direct impact of raindrops and runoff.
- Poor Plant Growth: If your plants are struggling to grow or appear less vigorous, it could be due to competition from weeds or stress from temperature and moisture fluctuations. Adding mulch can alleviate these stresses and support healthier growth.
- Exposed Roots: When plant roots become exposed, either from soil erosion or settling, mulch can protect them by covering the soil and preventing further exposure.
- Thin or Decomposed Mulch Layer: If you’ve previously applied mulch and it has decomposed significantly or has been dispersed, it’s time to add a fresh layer. A thin mulch layer won’t provide the benefits your garden needs.
Observing these signs and responding with appropriate mulching will help ensure your plants remain healthy, conserve water, and reduce maintenance needs in your garden.
Types of mulch
Picking the right mulch is key to using it well and getting the best results. Each mulch type offers specific benefits and is suited for different plants or gardening needs. By choosing the right mulch for your garden, you can enhance plant health, improve soil quality, and achieve your desired aesthetic. When choosing mulch, think about what your plants need, what the weather is like where you live, and what you like.
Blackwood mulch
Also known as black mulch, made from durable hardwood, this mulch features a deep black colour that contrasts beautifully with green foliage, making it perfect for decorative purposes as well as practical garden uses. Ideal for ornamental gardens where the visual contrast can highlight plantings or for use around shrubs and perennials that benefit from the moisture retention and weed suppression it offers.
Redwood mulch
Another hardwood mulch, also known as simply red mulch, dyed red for a striking appearance that can add a warm tone to garden beds. Works well in garden areas where you want to draw attention or enhance the colours of flowering plants, such as roses or annuals. It’s also effective in retaining moisture and controlling weeds around trees and bushes.
Euca mulch
Made from eucalyptus trees, this mulch is low in phosphorus, making it suitable for native Australian gardens that thrive in low-phosphorus soils. Particularly beneficial for Australian natives like banksias, waratahs, and grevilleas, which prefer the specific nutrient profile that this mulch supports.
Brownwood mulch
Also known as brown mulch, a versatile, natural-looking mulch that blends well with most garden designs. It decomposes over time, adding organic matter to the soil. Good for a broad range of plants, including deciduous shrubs, perennials, and annual flower beds. It’s a general-purpose mulch that works well in most garden situations.
Pine Bark mulch
Pine bark mulch has a natural appearance and comes in various sizes, from fine to large nuggets. It’s slightly acidic, which can help lower soil pH over time. Best for acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and blueberries. The softer, smaller sizes are excellent for use in playgrounds or paths, where a softer landing is beneficial.
Sugar Cane mulch
A by-product of the sugar cane industry, this mulch is lightweight and easy to spread. It breaks down relatively quickly, enriching the soil with organic matter and nutrients. Best for vegetable gardens, berry patches, and flower beds that benefit from the added nutrients and improved soil structure. It’s also a sustainable choice for organic gardening.
Mushroom Compost
Although called compost, it’s often used as a mulch. It’s rich in organic matter and nutrients, making it an excellent soil conditioner. Ideal for enriching soil in vegetable gardens, herb gardens, and for plants that thrive in nutrient-rich conditions. Avoid using it with native plants that prefer low-nutrient soils.
Moisture mulch
Designed to retain a significant amount of water, this mulch helps to keep the soil moist for longer periods, reducing the need for frequent watering. Perfect for use in garden beds that are exposed to full sun, areas with water-hungry plants, or during hot, dry periods. It’s beneficial for most garden plants, particularly those that require consistent moisture, like hydrangeas and ferns.
Tips to Become a Master Mulcher
Putting mulch in your garden is easy, but you should follow some simple steps to make sure it works well. Remember that the goal of mulching isn’t just to make your garden look neat and tidy. The right approach to mulching can significantly enhance soil health, improve plant vigour, and reduce the time you spend on tasks like watering and weeding. Plus, by maintaining an optimal mulch layer, you’re creating a healthier environment for your garden’s ecosystem, encouraging beneficial organisms that support plant growth. Keep these tips in mind, and you’ll find mulching to be a rewarding part of your gardening routine, helping your garden thrive throughout the seasons. Here are the key tips:
Clean Up
Before you start, it’s crucial to prepare the area where you’ll be applying mulch. This means removing any weeds or unwanted grass, which could compete with your plants for nutrients and water. After clearing the area, water the soil if it’s dry. This initial moistening helps create a welcoming environment for the mulch to do its job keeping that moisture in and helping to establish a barrier against future weed growth.
When introducing new plants to your garden, start by preparing the soil and arranging your plants in their designated spots. Once they’re comfortably settled, you can enrich the soil with fertilisers. With these steps complete, it’s time to apply your mulch, giving your new additions the perfect environment to thrive.
Spread It Out
When you’re ready to mulch, aim for a uniform layer that’s about 2-4 inches thick. This thickness is ideal because it’s enough to retain moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth, without being so thick that it smothers your plants. Be careful to avoid direct contact with plant stems and tree trunks. Mulch piled against plants can trap too much moisture, potentially leading to rot or fungal diseases.
Give Space
Around each plant, leave a bit of breathing room. This space ensures that air can circulate around the plant base, reducing the risk of diseases that thrive in damp, stagnant conditions. Think of it as giving your plants a little ‘personal space’ . It’s vital for their health and growth.
Watering
Water your garden after mulching to help settle the mulch in place and to provide moisture to the newly planted or existing plants. The mulch will help retain this moisture, reducing the frequency of watering needed.
Add More When Needed
As time passes, mulch naturally breaks down. This decomposition is beneficial because it adds nutrients to the soil, but it also means the mulch layer becomes thinner. To maintain its effectiveness, check the mulch depth periodically and top it up as needed. This usually means adding more mulch once or twice a year, but the exact timing can depend on the type of mulch you’re using and the weather conditions in your area. Organic mulches tend to break down faster than inorganic ones, so they require more frequent replenishment.
Finding the Perfect Time to Lay Down Mulch
When to start mulching? Well, it’s all about what you want to achieve and the time of year. Think of early spring as prime time for mulching in most places. This is when the earth shakes off its winter chill. Adding mulch now keeps in the moisture from those lovely spring showers, stops those eager weeds in their tracks, and gives your plant roots a cosy shield as the days get warmer.
But, aiming to keep your greens snug against the winter chill? Then, layering your garden with mulch after the first frost of late autumn is your best bet. This keeps the ground just right, not too cold, throughout winter. Remember, for those warm-lovers in your garden, hold off on the mulch until the ground feels like spring has truly sprung, to avoid any cold toes, or, well, roots.
Storing Unused Mulch
Storing unused or excess mulch properly can extend its lifespan and ensure it remains effective for your gardening needs. Here are some best practices for storing mulch:
- Keep It Dry: Moisture is the enemy of stored mulch as it can lead to mould or fungus growth. Ensure that the storage area is dry and well-ventilated. If you’re storing mulch outdoors, elevate it off the ground on pallets to prevent moisture from seeping in from below.
- Cover It Up: If the mulch is loose and not in bags, cover it with a tarp to protect it from rain and to prevent it from getting blown away by the wind. Make sure the tarp is secured but allows some air circulation to prevent condensation from forming underneath.
- Use Breathable Containers: For long-term storage, consider transferring bagged or loose mulch into breathable containers like burlap sacks or wooden crates. These materials allow air flow, which helps prevent the issues associated with poor ventilation, such as mould growth.
- Avoid Direct Sunlight: Store mulch in a shaded area or under a cover that protects it from direct sunlight. UV rays can degrade plastic bags over time, leading to tears and exposure of the mulch to moisture and pests.
- Check Regularly: Periodically inspect your stored mulch for signs of dampness, mould, or pests. If you notice any problems, address them immediately to prevent the mulch from becoming unusable.
- Rotate Stock: If you have multiple bags or batches of mulch, use the oldest ones first to prevent them from sitting unused for too long. This rotation ensures that all your stored mulch remains fresh and effective for garden use.
Wrapping Up
Think of mulch as your garden’s superhero – swooping in to save the day, keeping it lush, lovely, and lively. Choosing the right mulch and mastering its application isn’t just about garden maintenance; it’s about giving your green space the glow-up it deserves. And guess what? Diaco’s has got your back every step of the way. We’re not just your go-to spot for garden supplies; we’re your fellow gardening enthusiasts, bringing you closer to the garden of your dreams, with a helping hand and a smile. There’s no limit to what you and your garden can achieve. Here’s to making your garden not just great, but spectacular.
Have you ever thought about growing your own food right in your backyard? Not just any food, but unique, tasty, and entirely Australian native plants. These aren’t your regular veggies and fruits; these are what we call “bush tucker” or “Australian bush foods” – foods that are native to Australia and have been part of the traditional diet of Indigenous Australians for thousands of years. Today, we’re going to explore why these incredible edible native plants should find a spot in your garden.
Year-Round Growth
One of the best things about Australian native foods is that you can grow them all year round. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or a small balcony space, there’s always room for a bush tucker plant. Unlike traditional vegetable gardens that need specific seasons to thrive, native plants are champions of adaptability. They’ve evolved to cope with Australia’s diverse climates, from the cool, temperate zones to the heat of the tropics.
This means you can plant something like the beautiful lemon myrtle, which not only smells fantastic but can also be used to make tea or add a citrusy zest to your meals. Or consider the resilient wattleseed, perfect for adding a nutty flavour to baked goods. With edible plants suited for every part of Australia, your garden can become a year-round source of food and beauty.
Suited to the Climate
Why choose plants that struggle with the local weather when you can grow native foods that are meant to thrive here? Australian bush tucker plants require far less water and care than many common garden plants. They are perfectly suited to the Australian climate, which makes them a sustainable choice for your garden.
Growing plants like the kangaroo apple or the native currant not only adds variety to your garden but also helps support local wildlife and insects, including bees. These plants are a natural choice for anyone looking to make their garden more eco-friendly.
Potted Plant Possibilities
Not everyone has a large garden, but don’t worry – many Australian bush foods grow happily in pots. This makes them perfect for balcony gardens or smaller spaces. Potted bush tucker plants like the Davidson plum or the small but mighty mountain pepper can be moved around to catch the sun or shelter from too much heat, which means you can adjust their conditions to suit their needs without much hassle.
Plus, having potted plants means you can bring a touch of nature indoors during colder months, keeping your home green and vibrant year-round.
Cooking Variety
Imagine plucking fresh ingredients from your garden to throw into your dinner. Australian native foods offer a fantastic array of flavours that can transform your cooking. From herbs and edible flowers that can brighten up a salad to fruits that make refreshing teas, the possibilities are endless.
You could use lemon myrtle leaves to create a delightful herbal tea or add fresh finger lime to your fish dishes for a burst of citrusy flavour. Each plant offers something unique – pepperberry can spice up your dishes, while native mint provides a fresh twist to your drinks.
Nutritional Benefits
Not only do these plants taste great, but they’re also packed with nutrients. Australian native foods are often rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. For example, the Kakadu plum is known for having more vitamin C than an orange, making it a superfood that can help boost your immune system.
Other plants like the Davidson plum are high in anthocyanins, which are great for your health. And if you’re looking for minerals, look no further than bush tomatoes and wattleseeds, which provide selenium – an essential mineral for your body.
Top 6 Easiest Native Bush Food Plants to Grow at Home
Australia is full of unique, edible plants that show off the country’s rich plant life. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, here are six native bush food plants that are easy and rewarding to grow at home:
1. Samphire (Sea Asparagus, Sea Pickle)
Samphire, or sea asparagus, is a marvel of the coastal ecosystem. It thrives in salty soils and can grow in conditions where many other plants would fail. Its vibrant green, succulent stems are not only a visual treat but also offer a crunchy, salty flavour that’s perfect for adding a fresh twist to salads or as a garnish. This hardy plant is ideal for those new to gardening, as it requires minimal care once established.
2. Saltbush
Saltbush is incredibly resilient, making it perfect for beginners. With its striking silver-grey foliage, it adds a splash of colour to your garden and is very low maintenance. Saltbush thrives in a variety of soil conditions, from sandy to clay, and is excellent for water conservation. Its leaves can be used in cooking, offering a subtle salty flavour that complements a wide range of dishes.
3. Karkalla (Pigface)
Karkalla, commonly known as Pigface, is another coastal succulent that’s easy to grow. It’s particularly well-suited to sandy soils and tolerates drought conditions well. The fleshy leaves and vibrant pink flowers not only make it an attractive garden plant but are also edible, with a slightly salty taste. Karkalla is perfect for adding a pop of colour and interest to your garden beds or containers.
4. Warrigal Greens
Known for their robust nature, Warrigal Greens are an excellent choice for anyone starting a garden. They have large, triangular leaves that are glossy and vibrant. These greens are not just ornamental; their unique taste is perfect for adding to salads or cooking like spinach. They’re highly adaptable and grow well in a variety of conditions, making them a favourite among beginner gardeners.
5. Bush Tomato
the bush tomato is a standout for its intriguing appearance and resilience. With its small to medium-sized, ovate leaves and greyish stems, it’s not only tough but also drought-resistant. Bush tomatoes add a unique Australian twist to your garden, and their fruit is great for making chutneys and sauces.
6. Yam Daisy
The Yam Daisy is easy to cultivate and adds elegance to your garden with its lance-shaped or narrowly elliptical leaves. It’s not just visually appealing; the tubers are edible and have a sweet, nutty flavour, similar to sweet potato. It’s a great choice for gardeners looking to explore the taste and benefits of native root vegetables without too much hassle.
Wrapping Up
Growing Australian native foods at home offers so many benefits. It’s not just about the delicious and nutritious foods you can harvest but also about embracing a piece of Australian heritage. Whether you have a vast garden or just a small space on your balcony, consider planting some native bush food plants. Not only will you enjoy the benefits of fresh, home-grown produce, but you’ll also contribute to a healthier environment.
So, why not start your bush tucker adventure today? Visit us at Diaco’s Garden Nursery, where we’re more than happy to help you choose the best plants for your garden and provide all the advice you need.
Have you ever heard of lemon myrtle, bush tomato, Davidson’s plum, or finger lime? Maybe some of these names sound familiar, or maybe they don’t. It’s quite common not to know much about the wide range of Australian bush natives, even though they’re all around us. These plants are more than just part of the scenery; they’re key ingredients in Australia’s food culture.
This blog is here to expand our understanding of these amazing ingredients. By using bush natives in our daily cooking, we can explore their unique flavours and health benefits. Whether you’re a seasoned chef or just love experimenting with food, this guide will show you how to start using these incredible ingredients to make your meals even better, adding new flavours and aromas, and boosting your cooking skills. We’ll also introduce some great swaps for everyday herbs and vegetables with bush native options that can really change up your cooking. Let’s get started, ask questions, and try these native wonders. This journey is all about learning more about the native foods in our own backyard and bringing a bit of Australian nature into our kitchens.
What Are Australian Bush Natives?
Bush natives, or native Australian plants, are a colourful bunch that includes various fruits, nuts, herbs, and spices found across the Australian landscape. Familiar names like lemon myrtle, wattleseed, and Kakadu plum might ring a bell. These plants aren’t just beautiful to look at; they carry a slice of Australia’s heart and history.
Today, bush natives are well-known here and overseas for their unique flavours. Whether you’re making a meal for your family or just having a snack, adding some bush native ingredients can give your food a true taste of Australia’s natural heritage.
What Are the Benefits of Cooking with Bush Natives?
Cooking with bush natives introduces new, intriguing flavours to your dishes and offers several benefits:
- Unique Flavours: Bush natives provide distinct tastes that can’t be found in other global ingredients.
- Nutritional Benefits: Many bush natives are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and essential nutrients.
- Sustainable Cooking: Using native plants promotes biodiversity and reduces the environmental impact associated with imported ingredients.
Tips for Incorporating Bush Natives in Your Recipes
- Start Small: Add small amounts of bush natives to dishes you already know.
- Be Creative: Incorporate bush natives in marinades, dressings, baked goods, and drinks.
- Pair Wisely: Combine bush native flavours with complementary ingredients to enhance both their tastes.
Easy Swaps for Herbs
- Regular Mint for Bush Mint: Swap your usual mint for bush mint in mojitos, lamb dishes, or fresh salads. Bush mint has a more intense, peppery flavour that adds a fresh, aromatic twist to these dishes.
- Regular Basil for Bush Basil (Native Basil): Renowned for its strong aroma and peppery, citrus notes, bush basil adds a creative twist to the familiar classic. It’s perfect for those looking to infuse a distinctly Australian flavour into their cooking, ideal in dishes where you would normally use traditional basil to add an exciting and uniquely Australian touch.
- Rosemary for Wild Rosemary: Known for its robust and earthy fragrance, wild rosemary contributes depth and complexity to culinary creations. It’s ideal for enhancing the flavours in a range of dishes, from roasted meats to flavourful marinades.
- Oregano for Saltbush: Substitute saltbush for oregano in Mediterranean dishes, tomato-based sauces, or grilled vegetables. Saltbush has a salty, herbaceous flavour that complements meats and vegetables beautifully.
- Lemongrass for Wild Lemongrass: Swap traditional lemongrass for wild lemongrass, an Australian variant that offers a citrusy and tangy flavour. It’s incredibly versatile, enhancing both savoury and sweet dishes with its vibrant taste.
- Thyme for Native Thyme: Replace traditional thyme with native thyme in your recipes. With its delicate leaves and savoury taste, native thyme is a versatile herb that adds a subtle yet distinctive flavour to many dishes, making it a kitchen favourite.
Easy Swaps for Vegetables
- Regular Sweet Potato for Native Sweet Potato: Native Sweet Potatoes are richer, nuttier, and a bit sweeter than regular sweet potatoes. They’re usually smaller and might not be as smooth in shape, with skin colours ranging from deep purple to rustic red and a vibrant orange or yellow inside. They’re great for baking, making smooth sweet potato fries, or adding something special to roasted veggies.
- Spinach for Warrigal Greens: Warrigal Greens, or New Zealand spinach, have a stronger and slightly salty flavour with an earthy feel, making them a great swap for regular spinach. Their thick, shiny green leaves handle salty coastal areas well, which adds to their unique taste. Use them to spice up salads, as a cooked side dish, or in quiches.
- Potatoes for Murnong (Yam Daisy): Murnong, or Yam Daisy, tastes sweet and nutty with a touch of earthiness, making it a cool alternative to regular potatoes. These small, round tubers look like new potatoes but have rougher, golden-brown skin and creamy white, tender insides. They’re great mashed, in stews, or in potato salads to make your dish stand out.
- Celery for Sea Celery: Sea Celery (or sea parsley) is a stronger and more flavourful version of regular celery, with a salty and herby taste. It’s smaller and bushier with finely divided green to bluish leaves, showing it can grow well in salty places. It’s perfect for adding a bold taste to soups, stews, and stuffing.
- Pumpkin for Desert Yam: Desert Yam is a sweeter and creamier choice than regular pumpkin, with a hint of nuttiness. These yams are smaller and harder on the outside, ranging from tan to brown with dense, smooth orange to yellow flesh inside. They’re great in soups and pies where they make a richer base, and they also do well in roasted veggie dishes.
- Regular Tomatoes for Bush Tomato: Bush Tomato, or Kutjera, changes up dishes with its deep, tangy flavour and touches of caramel and tamarind, making it more complex than regular tomatoes. These small, pea-sized fruits ripen to a deep brown and have a tough texture that softens when cooked or soaked. They’re perfect for adding depth to sauces, stews, and chutneys, and go well with meats and native spices for a truly Australian flavour in your cooking.
Where to Find and Buy Bush Natives
Bush natives are integral ingredients in a variety of products such as jams, sauces, teas, and as herbs and spices, all of which are becoming increasingly common in both specialty stores and online. Their unique flavours enhance everyday cooking, turning simple meals into gourmet experiences. Bush natives can be sourced from a number of places:
- Speciality Grocery Stores: Look for these ingredients in stores that specialise in organic or native foods. These establishments often carry a range of bush native-based products like jams, teas, and spices, and their knowledgeable staff can offer guidance on how to use them in your cooking.
- Online Retailers: Many online shops provide a broad selection of dried or fresh bush native ingredients. Shopping online is convenient, allowing you to access a variety of native ingredients from across the country.
- Local Markets: Explore local farmer’s markets for fresh and ethically sourced supplies. These markets are fantastic for finding not only fresh produce but also artisanal products made from bush natives, such as sauces and jams.
- Foraging Tours: Participate in foraging tours to learn how to safely gather your own bush natives. These educational experiences teach you about the natural habitat of these plants and how to harvest them sustainably.
- Growing Your Own: For those interested in a more hands-on approach, consider growing bush natives at home. Seeds and young plants are available at many nurseries and online garden shops. Growing your own bush natives enriches your connection to the food you cook and eat, ensuring a fresh supply and supporting local biodiversity.
Incorporating bush natives into your garden or kitchen provides a sustainable way to explore and enjoy Australia’s rich botanical heritage. Whether you buy them or grow them, these native ingredients can transform your culinary creations.
Wrapping Up
Bringing Australian bush natives into your cooking is a fantastic way to connect with Australia’s rich culinary heritage while also adding some exciting and healthy twists to your meals. You can start with easy swaps and slowly explore the amazing array of flavours these natives have to offer. Whether you’re a pro in the kitchen or just starting out, using bush natives foods is a great way to add a bit of spice and a lot of heart to your cooking. Dive in, experiment, and enjoy the journey of discovering these unique tastes from our beautiful landscape. It’s all about making each meal special and savouring every bite with a smile!
Welcome to the vibrant world of bush tucker plants at Diaco’s Garden Nursery. As lovers of all things green, we’re here to shine a light on the edible natives of Australia—plants that thrive in our beloved Victorian climate. From the spacious greenery of a backyard to the quaint confines of a courtyard or balcony, bush tucker plants can add life and taste to any space. Today, we’ll uncover a selection of these plants that are not only simple to grow but also serve as a natural pantry of unique flavours, right outside your door.
Bush Tucker Gardening for Melbourne Homes
In Melbourne and Geelong, every kind of garden, be it a spacious backyard, a cosy courtyard, or a small balcony, has the potential to embrace the wild beauty of bush tucker plants. Traditional homes with big backyards give a lot of room for these native plants to spread out. But as more people move into homes with outdoor spaces like courtyards or apartments with balconies, bush tucker plants find a new home. They happily grow in pots or small patches, bringing a touch of wilderness right into the heart of the city. The cool to mild climate in these areas is just right for bush tucker plants to thrive. So, no matter the size of the outdoor space, there’s always room for a bush tucker plant to add a touch of nature, making gardening an adventure accessible to everyone in Melbourne and Geelong.
Why Bush Tucker Plants?
Growing bush natives in your garden is like inviting a piece of Australia’s wild heart into your home. One of the biggest perks is that these plants are edible, providing fresh, tasty ingredients for your meals. They are a healthy choice and a great way to explore unique Aussie flavours right from your garden.
Native plants have also evolved with the natural climate here. They are used to our weather patterns, which means they grow well without too much fuss. This makes them a practical choice for local gardeners, reducing the struggle of dealing with plants that don’t like our weather.
Bush tucker plants are also friends of our local birds, bees, and butterflies. By planting them, you help to attract native biodiversity into your garden. It’s a natural way to invite some wildlife, making your garden a lively, enjoyable space.
Lastly, these plants are a sustainable choice. They don’t need a lot of water or special care to thrive, which is good for the environment and eases your gardening chores. By choosing bush tucker plants, you’re making a green choice, contributing to a more sustainable way of gardening. It’s a simple step towards being more eco-friendly while enjoying the natural beauty and flavours of Australia.
The Green Gems of the Bush
Bush tucker plants are Australia’s botanical treasures, offering a mix of flavours, colours, and textures. Let’s explore some of these bush tucker delights that are easy to grow and will add a sprinkle of Aussie essence to your Victoria garden:
1. Saltbush
Saltbush is a tough, enduring plant whose grey-green leaves sway gently in the sunlight, adding a touch of wilderness to your garden. It can grow up to 120 centimetres tall, revelling in full sun exposure. It’s quite adaptable but prefers well-draining soil. This one doesn’t need much water, making it a water-smart choice. Its edible leaves are a salty treat. The salty leaves of Saltbush can be used fresh in salads, or dried and crushed into a salt alternative for seasoning your dishes.
2. Warrigal Greens
Known as New Zealand Spinach, Warrigal Greens softly carpet the ground or fill pots, bringing lush greenery to your space. They can spread to about 80 centimetres wide, thriving in well-draining soil under full to partial sun. They require a moderate amount of water to thrive. Warrigal Greens are a nutritious green, ready to be a healthy part of your meals. New Zealand spinach is a nutritious substitute for regular spinach and can be used in salads, quiches, or as a steamed vegetable side dish.
3. Bush Tomatoes
Kutjera, or Bush Tomatoes, are wild, small, yet bountiful, promising to add a zest to your meals. They can grow to 150 centimetres tall, loving the full sun and well-draining, sandy to loamy soil. They need very little water to thrive, being native to arid regions of Australia. Kutjera can be eaten fresh or used dried as a spice with a caramel-like, spicy flavour profile. It is commonly added to chutneys, curries, and salsas, and can be used to create a crust on meats or as a flavorful ingredient in bread mixes, sauces, and dressings.
4. Karkalla
Karkalla, also known as Pigface, is a hearty succulent that adorns your garden with fleshy leaves and vibrant flowers. It can sprawl to 30 centimetres high, enjoying sandy, well-draining soil under full sun. This one doesn’t need much water, appreciating occasional sips. Karkalla’s succulent leaves can be eaten fresh in salads, or lightly sautéed and served as a crunchy, salty accompaniment to various dishes.
5. Sea Purslane
Sea Purslane, a lover of sandy soil, is ready to sprawl across your garden or nestle in pots, with its fleshy, edible leaves. It can spread to 30 centimetres tall, thriving in full sun with well-draining, sandy soil. With a low water requirement, this one is a true low-maintenance friend. Sea Purslane’s fleshy leaves add a salty crunch to salads, or can be lightly steamed as a healthy, mineral-rich side vegetable.
6. Bush Mint
Bush Mint has a strong yet gentle aroma, growing up to 60 centimetres tall. It enjoys partial shade and moist, well-draining soil. The bush mint requires a moderate amount of water – keep an eye on the soil moisture and water the plant when the topsoil starts to feel dry. It’s a delightful aroma bearer and culinary companion. Bush Mint is a delightful herb to use in teas, as a garnish, or to add a refreshing, minty flavour to a variety of dishes including lamb, desserts, and salads.
7. Macadamia Nut
The Macadamia tree is a tall dreamer, starting small in a pot but aspiring to reach up to 12 metres in height. It enjoys full sun to partial shade and well-draining, enriched soil. It requires a moderate amount of water to thrive. Its delicious nuts are a gardener’s reward. The Macadamia plant is suitable for pots initially but will need to be transplanted directly into the ground eventually. We all know the famous macadamia nuts are a true delight, whether eaten raw, roasted, or used in baking to add a rich, nutty flavour to cookies, cakes, and other desserts.
8. Finger Lime
Finger Lime is a citrus delight growing up to 6 metres tall, thriving in well-draining soil under full sun to partial shade. This tree requires a moderate amount of watering. Its unique ‘citrus caviar’ is a gourmet delight and a visual treat in your garden. The unique ‘citrus caviar’ of Finger Limes can be used as a tangy garnish on seafood, in drinks, or desserts, adding a burst of citrusy flavour and a visually appealing touch.
9. Davidson’s Plum
Davidson’s Plum is a storyteller of ancient lands, stretching up to 10 metres tall. It thrives in well-draining, rich soil under partial shade. This tree requires a moderate amount of water – keep an eye on the soil moisture and water the plant when the topsoil starts to feel dry. Its tart plums are high in antioxidants and a link to the wild heart of Australia. Davidson’s Plum is suitable for pots initially but requires transplanting as it grows. Davidson’s Plum can be used in a variety of ways – in jams, sauces, desserts, or even as a tangy addition to savoury dishes, providing a rich source of antioxidants along with a tart, fruity flavour.
Growing Conditions For Thriving Bush Native Plants
For your edible native plants to prosper, starting with the right soil is crucial. It should allow water to pass through easily while being rich in organic material. Even if you’re potting, a high-quality potting mix will work wonders for your plants over time.
When choosing what to grow, pick native edibles that are known to flourish in our Victorian climate. They won’t ask for much once they’re settled in but giving them a bit of extra care can lead to stronger growth and even tastier results. Feeding your plants with a native-specific fertiliser can really perk them up—liquid options get to work fast, helping your garden thrive and flavours deepen.
A few things to keep in mind after feeding your plants: Wait a little before you harvest, and make sure to give everything a good rinse before it makes its way to your plate.
And a word to the wise for when you’re dealing with those pesky garden invaders: Always follow the instructions on your pest control products to the letter, suit up with the right gear, and keep these products away from kids and pets.
Lastly, it’s always good to do your research before eating any plants.
At Diaco’s, we’re all about helping you grow a safe and delicious bush tucker garden. Pop in for a chat, and we’ll help you get your garden growing just right!
Wrapping Up
Whether you have a sprawling backyard, a snug courtyard, or a petite balcony, there’s a place for a bush tucker plant in your Melbourne or Geelong home. And remember, every little plant you grow contributes to a greener, more sustainable, and vibrant community. Swing by Diaco’s Garden Nursery, let’s explore together the bush tucker plants that resonate with your garden dreams. Our friendly and knowledgeable team is here to help you make your garden a delightful, nature-friendly nook in the urban landscape. Your garden adventure awaits.
If you’re keen to add a dash of variety in your vegie garden, it’s time to welcome the bush natives to your garden. In this beginner-friendly guide, we’re diving into the vibrant world of bush tucker plants, Australia’s own edible greens. Read on to discover how these homegrown stars can sprinkle some Aussie magic on your garden and dinner table. Here is Diaco’s Bush Tucker Plants for Beginners:
Why Bush Tucker Plants?
Bush tucker (or “tucka”) plants are the local heroes not just in your garden but also on the dining table, thanks to their edible and often nutritious bits like leaves, fruits, seeds, and roots. There is a long history of use that goes back thousands of years. Here are some great reasons to share some bush food love in your veggie garden:
New Tastes
Bush native plants introduce you to a world of new flavours. From the tangy kick of bush tomatoes to the salty crunch of samphire, your taste buds are in for a treat!
Easy to Grow
Many of these plants are hardy and adapted to our local soils and climates. They’re not fussy, making your gardening journey a breeze.
Health Benefits
Packed with beneficial nutrients, bush tucker plants are a healthy choice. It’s nature’s way of packing nutrition right into your garden.
Water-Savvy
With their native roots, many bush food plants are drought-tolerant. They don’t ask for much water, which is a thumbs up for conserving this precious resource.
Pest-Resistant
These native buddies have grown alongside local pests for ages and have built up a good defence. That means fewer headaches dealing with pesky bugs and more time enjoying your garden.
Getting Started in Victoria
Victoria’s climate is a welcoming spot for many bush tucker plants. The mild winters transitioning to warm or hot summers create a good environment for these native plants. Understanding Victoria’s climate and how it interacts with these plants is the first step in your bush food gardening journey.
Local Climate
Victoria’s climate varies from milder coastal areas to different temperature ranges inland, making it suitable for a variety of bush tucker plants. Whether you’re near the coast or further inland, the climate in Victoria is conducive for these native plants to grow well. Each region has its unique climate characteristics that can be matched with the right bush tucker plants to ensure successful growth.
Soil Preparation
Good soil is the foundation of a healthy garden. Preparing your soil with organic matter and ensuring good drainage is crucial for your bush tucker plants to thrive. Mixing in organic matter helps improve soil structure and provides the nutrients these plants need to grow healthy and strong. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging, which can be harmful to your plants.
Watering
Bush tucker plants are generally low-maintenance when it comes to watering, especially once they are well established. Many of these plants are drought-tolerant and don’t require a lot of water to thrive. This characteristic makes them a smart choice for water conservation in your garden. However, regular watering, especially in the initial stages, helps them to settle in and grow well. As they grow, these plants will require less water, making them easy to care for while also being a water-wise choice for your garden.
Top Bush Tucker Plants for Victorian Gardens
Now, let’s meet some bush tucka stars that can shine bright in your Victorian garden:
Warrigal Greens
Warrigal Greens, also known as New Zealand spinach, are a sturdy and easy-to-grow choice for any garden. These plants are low-maintenance and adapt well to different conditions, which is great for both new and experienced gardeners. The leaves are similar to regular spinach but have a bit of a tangy kick. They grow in a sprawling manner and can reach a height of about 30-40 cm with a spread of up to 1m or more if left unpruned.
These greens aren’t picky about where they grow. They do well in a variety of soils, and once they’re settled in, they don’t need a lot of water to stay healthy. It’s a good idea to start them in a sunny spot with well-draining soil to give them the best start.
When it comes to eating, the leaves are where it’s at. They can be used in salads, stir-fries or anywhere you’d normally use spinach. Just wash them well, chop them up, and they’re ready to go. They bring a nice green colour and a fresh, earthy flavour to your dishes.
Saltbush
Saltbush is a strong, easy-going plant that is well-suited for dry or saline soil conditions, showcasing grey leaves that give a silvery touch to your garden. It’s a tough shrub that can handle dry spells well, showing off a dense foliage that can grow up to 1 to 2 metres in height and a similar spread.
One of the practical benefits of having saltbush in your garden is its ability to help with erosion control. It’s good at holding the soil together, which is especially useful in areas prone to erosion.
Now, let’s talk about the tasty side of saltbush. The leaves are edible and have a unique salty flavour. They are also nutritious, rich in minerals and antioxidants. You can use them in a variety of ways in the kitchen. They can be blanched, sautéed, or even used as a wrap for meats. You can toss them in salads or use them to stuff poultry. If you dry the leaves, they can be used as a herb or a salty sprinkle on your dishes, acting as a substitute for common salt or seaweed.
Bush Tomatoes
Bush tomatoes, or kutjera, are a nifty little addition to your garden. Unlike your standard tomatoes, these are smaller in size but pack a punch with a sweet, tangy flavour. They bring a unique taste, something different to your usual tomato dishes.
Growing bush tomatoes is pretty straightforward. They like a sunny spot in the garden and well-draining soil, much like their common tomato cousins. When they start to fruit, you’ll notice they are smaller, often about the size of a grape. They turn a bright red colour when ripe, indicating they are ready to be picked and enjoyed.
In the kitchen, kutjera can be used in a variety of dishes. They add a sweet and tangy kick to sauces, chutneys, and traditional Australian recipes. If a recipe calls for kutjera and you don’t have any on hand, sun-dried tomatoes could be used as a substitute. However, keep in mind that while sun-dried tomatoes bring a similar intense flavour, they won’t quite capture the unique taste of kutjera.
These little tomatoes can replace common fresh or sun-dried tomatoes in recipes where a more intense, tangy flavour is desired. They work well in salads, salsas, and sauces, lending a different taste profile to the dish.
Samphire
Samphire, often referred to as sea asparagus or sea pickle, is a crunchy, salty plant that could add a unique flavour to your garden and your plate. Growing to about 20 to 30 cm in height, it’s a modest plant with a big personality. The fleshy stems are what you’re after; they bring a salty, marine-like flavour to dishes.
In the kitchen, you can use Samphire much like you would use capers or olives. It goes great in salads, providing a crunchy texture and a salty kick. It’s also a fantastic side dish, lightly steamed or sautéed, maybe with a bit of garlic and butter.
Growing Samphire is pretty easy-going. It loves well-draining, sandy soil and plenty of sunshine. It’s used in coastal areas, so it doesn’t mind salty conditions. Once it’s established in your garden, it doesn’t need much watering, which is a bonus during those drier periods. It’s a low-maintenance plant that adds a unique flavour to your garden both visually and culinarily. One of the key things to remember when growing Samphire is to avoid waterlogged conditions. It likes its soil well-draining, so ensure it’s planted in a spot where it won’t be sitting in water.
Karkalla
Meet Karkalla, also known as pigface, a sturdy little plant that brings a touch of the coast to your garden. Standing at about 10-30 cm tall, it’s a low-growing plant with a spreading habit, perfect for ground cover or even hanging baskets. With its fleshy, succulent leaves and small but bright pink flowers, it’s a modest plant with a cheerful demeanour.
Growing Karkalla is pretty straightforward – sandy soil, a sunny spot, and occasional watering, especially during dry spells. It’s a hardy plant, tolerating salty winds and sandy soils, making it a great choice for coastal gardens or those drier, sunnier spots in your yard.
Now, let’s talk about the tasty side of Karkalla. Its leaves and fruit have a slightly sour taste which can add a zesty kick to your salads and stir-fries. They have a crunchy texture which holds well whether you decide to toss them in a salad or give them a quick stir-fry. And if you’re looking to replace capers or olives in a recipe, Karkalla could be a unique substitute.
Wrapping Up
Diving into bush tucker gardening in Victoria is a straightforward yet rewarding venture. It’s all about getting to know a variety of native plants that not only change up your vegie garden but also bring new flavours to your table. As these plants have adapted to the Australian soil and climate over thousands of years, they require less fuss and water than many common garden varieties, making them a smart choice for a low-maintenance garden.
At Diaco’s, we’re all about making gardening a joyful and rewarding experience. Our friendly team is here to guide you on your bush tucker gardening journey, sharing tips on the best plants for Victorian climates, how to care for them, and even a few recipe ideas to get you started. So, let’s explore some bush tucker plants for beginners together and discover how they can add a new dimension to your garden and your plate.
Anyone who has grown Citrus Trees in Australia will likely be familiar with the dreaded gall wasp, and the unsightly tree galls that they leave in their wake every Spring and Summer.
These native insects have developed a reputation for being very hard to get rid of. The huge galls that they leave behind are often ugly and misshapen, and they have the potential to cause damage to your beloved citrus tree in the long run.
What’s even worse is that the Gall Wasp traps sold in gardening and hardware stores are not particularly effective at eradicating these pests. Thankfully, there is one simple method you can use instead that gets you fast, easy results without much fuss.
Read on to find out more about where Gall Wasps come from, how to easily remove an infestation from your tree, and how to prevent the pesky things from moving in to begin with.
Gall Wasps Are A Widespread Problem In Australia
Gall Wasps (or Bruchophagus Fellis) originated in northern Australia, where the insects were naturally hosted by native Finger Limes and other local citrus varieties.
After citrus trees like lemons, oranges and grapefruit were introduced to the country, the Gall Wasp slowly spread south to New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and even Western Australia. Now they are a widespread problem – particularly around suburban Melbourne, where citrus trees are highly popular in the warmer months.
At around 2-3mm in length, these tiny black wasps incubate their young inside the branches of your citrus trees during Spring and Summer. The tree will detect the growing wasp larvae as foreign bodies and try to reject them, causing the branch to break out in lumps called galls. This stresses your tree out, leading to weak branch growth and poorer fruit yields.
When the wasps hatch, they’ll drill themselves out of the gall and leave it pockmarked with tiny little holes everywhere. The shiny little nuisances then go on to breed and lay more eggs near where they’ve just hatched, spreading the infestation further throughout your citrus tree.
Gall Wasp Traps Are Not Effective.
As the problem has become more widespread, gardening and hardware stores have taken to selling Gall Wasp traps, usually in the form of sticky sheets or cylinders that hang from the tree and function like a traditional fruit fly trap. Unfortunately, they also trap and kill the helpful pollinating insects as well, potentially doing more harm than good to your citrus tree.
In our experience, these traps have proved totally ineffective in actually preventing wasps from moving in. This isn’t a controversial opinion either – many professional gardeners are outspoken in their dislike of Gall Wasp traps and there is little evidence they work at all.
Pruning Gall Branches
Another common method in the past has been to prune and dispose of any gall-afflicted branches before the wasps hatch. This is an effective method if you only have one or two heavily infested branches, but it’s useless if they are all through your tree. Cutting off too many branches is not viable – it leads to less fruit and gradually weakens the tree overall.
This Simple Trick Effectively Kills Gall Wasp Infestations.
Thankfully, gardeners have recently discovered that there is actually a much easier and more effective way to wipe out Gall Wasp infestations in your citrus trees.
We picked this trick up from a very informative ABC Gardening video a few years ago, and it’s called the ‘Peel and Reveal’ method. In our experience, it works like an absolute charm. All it takes is some keen observation skills and a sharp knife – even a potato peeler will do!
When you spot a gall on your citrus tree, use your blade to peel off one side of the active gall. You can also look for the most swollen section of the gall and slice it open right down the middle. This will ‘reveal’ the unhatched larvae and expose them to the outside air, killing the whole batch instantly and effectively.
No need for indiscriminate traps or heavy-handed pruning – it turns out killing Gall Wasps is really as simple as a quick cut. However, you’ll need to make sure you’re onto it right at the beginning of wasp season, usually around late Winter to early Spring. You should also make sure not to accidentally ringbark any of your branches, as that can do serious damage.
Gall Wasp Prevention
While the Peel-and-Reveal method is a great way to deal with galls as they appear, it can be better to try and prevent them from appearing in the first place. Following these tips can help to prevent you from creating the perfect Gall Wasp conditions in your citrus tree:
1. Avoid Pruning or Over-Fertilising in Winter: Pruning your trees heavily in late Winter will lead to soft new growth just as Spring is beginning. The wasps love to burrow into this soft moist wood, and it creates perfect conditions for laying eggs. Overfeeding or over-fertilising at this time can also have similar effects on growth, and the extra moisture and nutrient build-up may only attract insects further.
2. Coat Your Tree in Horticultural Oil: Another method that gardeners use to fend off Gall Wasps is oil. Coating the new growth in your tree with a plant-safe oil product from July through to August is thought to block the female wasps from laying their eggs in the soft wood. White Oil is a popular solution to this problem, and there is some suggestion that Eco-Oil may also help by attracting the Gall Wasp’s natural predators, which are even bigger wasps. Yep, lovely stuff.
3. Warn Thy Neighbor! Citrus trees are everywhere in Melbourne. Growing your own citrus is a tradition for the large Greek and Italian migrant populations, and the climate is absolutely perfect for it here. However, this abundance is also what gives the Gall Wasp such a foothold. If you notice a tree is infested, tell your neighbours to check their trees as well and prevent the wasps from moving straight back in. If you work together, you may manage to remove them from the entire area!
Other Common Citrus Pests To Watch Out For
If you follow these prevention tips and are quick to destroy any galls as they appear, you should be well prepared to defend your precious Citrus Trees over Spring and Summer.
Unfortunately, Gall Wasps are not the only pests you will have to look out for. Here are some quick tips for dealing with the other irritating pests that can affect citrus trees in Australia. You can check out this free, in-depth guide from Citrus Australia for even more detailed info.
Scale Insects
These annoying pests are one of the main pests that citrus trees deal with. Scale will settle on the leaves and fruit, and if left unchecked, it can seriously damage or even kill your tree. The presence of scale can also cause ants to move in and do further damage to fruit.
You can identify scale by the blemishes on fruit and leaves, and it can be easily treated with a White Oil Spray. In mild cases, you can use an alcohol-soaked cotton swab and pick off the insects by hand. In the long term, native plants that attract predator insects can help to prevent scale insect populations from growing out of control.
Mites
These tiny insects are a problem all across Australia, and they can cause settle on the fruit and leaves of your citrus tree. You should check vigilantly for mites from Spring through Autumn when these insects are most active.
You can usually find them on the underside of the leaf, though you will probably need a magnifying glass to see them at all. A mite is so small that it damages leaves & fruit by biting through the plant cell wall and sucking out the contents – it’s creepy stuff.
To treat a mite infestation, either spray your tree with an extra-strong hose blast or wipe down infested areas of the tree with a soap mixture. Mix 1 tsp of soap with 1L of water, then spray the undersides of the affected leaves with it to make sure all the mites are covered.
Wash off the solution 2-3 hours later, and remove all of the soap residues from the foliage surface to avoid any leaf burn. Repeat this process every 4-7 days until the mites are gone.
Queensland Fruit Fly
Like Gall Wasps, these insects have been a huge problem in northern Australia for a long time. Unfortunately, there is evidence that they have recently spread to Melbourne and are causing headaches for both commercial and home gardeners, particularly between October and May when they are most active.
It pays to be vigilant against fruit flies as they can be quite devastating to your citrus tree. If you remove any affected fruit, be sure to seal it in a plastic bag before disposing of it in order to kill off any potential larvae. Netting your trees can also add extra protection. Agriculture Victoria has recently posted a useful & comprehensive guide for how to deal with these fruit flies in your home garden.
Citrus trees are one of our favourite plants to grow, and a lot of love and care goes into them over the years. It can be stressful or even devastating to see your beloved tree affected by pests, which is why it’s so important to know how to get rid of them quickly and effectively!
Hopefully, this guide has given you the confidence to deal with infestations of Gall Wasps or other common citrus pests if they happen to occur in your garden. If you’re having trouble with a specific pest, or you have any garden questions at all, you can ask one of our friendly gardening experts for advice. They’ll be more than happy to help you figure it out.
Devil’s Ivy is a stunning plant with heart-shaped, patterned, and glossy leaves that can grow in all directions. It’s a tropical plant that is perfect for indoor enthusiasts, and it’s one of those plants that is bound to survive almost anything you throw at it.
Are you ready to add a touch of lush greenery to your home? Devil’s Ivy is an excellent choice for you! This climbing or hanging plant is a must-have in any plant lover’s collection. In this blog, we’ll show you how to grow and care for this beautiful plant.
Quick Tips
- They like a light spot, preferably not in direct sunlight – it’s not too fussy though.
- It is a popular houseplant. It provides a relaxing, fresh ambience, and it can also help purify the air.
- Probably best to avoid this plant if you have small children or pets that are likely to eat plants!
Sunlight and Placement
Devil’s Ivy is a tropical plant, but it will thrive indoors in most climates. It loves hanging baskets, containers, and can grow along walls. It’s not fussy about where it’s placed, but it prefers a light spot, preferably not in direct sunlight.
The paler leaves need more light, so if you notice the leaves turning yellow, it might be a sign that it’s not getting enough light. Outdoors, it grows well in full or partial shade.
Watering and the Devil’s Ivy – Hydrated and Happy
Of all the things you do for your Devil’s Ivy, watering may be the most critical. Proper watering is the key to the growth and success of this hardy plant. Too much water, and you risk root rot, which can be fatal. Too little water, and the plant will wither and die. Fear not, though – we have some expert tips to help you achieve the perfect balance!
The first step to proper watering is to understand the plant’s needs. As we mentioned earlier, the Devil’s Ivy doesn’t need a lot of water, but it does need regular watering. The plant’s root system is relatively shallow, so it only needs a small amount of water to reach the roots. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is a common cause of Devil’s Ivy death.
The best way to water Devil’s Ivy is to use the ‘finger test’. Stick your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle. If the soil is dry at this depth, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist, wait a day or two and check again. During the growing season, you should water the plant every seven to ten days. In winter, reduce watering to once every two to three weeks.
When watering your Devil’s Ivy, make sure to water the soil, not the leaves. Watering the leaves can lead to fungal growth and disease. If you’re using tap water, allow it to sit out for a day or two before watering your plant. This will allow any chlorine or fluoride to evaporate, which can be harmful to your plant.
If your Devil’s Ivy is growing in a hanging basket or container, make sure to check the drainage holes regularly. It’s crucial to ensure that water isn’t standing in the bottom of the pot, which can lead to root rot. To prevent this, you can add a layer of pebbles to the bottom of the pot before adding the soil. This will help with drainage and prevent water from standing in the pot.
Finally, it’s essential to remember that the amount of water your Devil’s Ivy needs will depend on a variety of factors, including the temperature, humidity, and sunlight in your home. Keep an eye on your plant and adjust your watering schedule accordingly. With a little practice and attention, your Devil’s Ivy will thrive and grow into a beautiful, lush plant that will bring joy and beauty to your home for years to come!
The Dirty Truth: Soil Requirements for Devil’s Ivy
When it comes to soil requirements for the Devil’s Ivy, there are a few things to keep in mind. This plant likes a well-draining, light and porous soil mix that is rich in organic matter. This type of soil provides the right balance of nutrients and moisture for the plant to thrive.
One of the most important things to remember is that Devil’s Ivy does not like to sit in wet soil, so it’s important to choose a soil mix that drains well. This helps to prevent overwatering and root rot, which can be fatal for the plant.
You can make your own soil mix using ingredients such as perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, and sand. These ingredients help to create a light, airy texture that allows for good drainage while still retaining enough moisture for the plant. Alternatively, you can purchase a good quality potting mix from your local garden centre or nursery.
It’s also important to choose the right size pot for your Devil’s Ivy. A pot that is too small can restrict the plant’s growth and make it more susceptible to problems such as overwatering, while a pot that is too large can lead to soil that stays wet for too long. A good rule of thumb is to choose a pot that is 3-6 cm larger than the current size of your plant’s root ball.
Lastly, remember to re-pot your Devil’s Ivy every 1-2 years to ensure that it has fresh, nutrient-rich soil to grow in. When repotting, gently remove the plant from its old pot, loosen the roots, and place it in the new pot with fresh soil. This will help keep your plant healthy and happy for years to come.
Overall, providing your Devil’s Ivy with the right soil mix and pot size is key to keeping it thriving and looking its best. With a little bit of care and attention, your Devil’s Ivy will reward you with its beautiful foliage and easy-going nature.
From Good to Great: Enhancing Devil’s Ivy with Fertiliser
Fertilising your Devil’s Ivy is a great way to promote healthy growth and keep those leaves looking lush and green. In fact, a regular feeding schedule can make all the difference when it comes to the overall health and vitality of your plant.
The good news is that fertilising your Devil’s Ivy is super easy. All you need is a good-quality fertiliser and a basic understanding of how to apply it. Let’s dive in and learn everything there is to know about fertilising this tropical beauty!
First, it’s important to know that Devil’s Ivy doesn’t need a lot of fertiliser. Too much fertiliser can actually harm the plant, so it’s best to err on the side of caution. A general rule of thumb is to feed your Devil’s Ivy once a month during the growing season (spring and summer), and then reduce to every 6-8 weeks during the dormant season (fall and winter).
When choosing a fertiliser, look for one that’s balanced, meaning it has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K) listed on the label. These three nutrients are essential for plant growth and development, and they work together to promote healthy foliage, strong roots, and robust flowering (if your Devil’s Ivy blooms).
You can choose between liquid or granular fertiliser. Liquid fertiliser is quick-acting and easy to apply, while granular fertiliser is slower to release but provides longer-lasting results. Both options will work well for your Devil’s Ivy, so it’s really a matter of personal preference.
When applying fertiliser, be sure to follow the instructions on the label. Too much fertiliser can burn the roots and damage the plant, so it’s better to use too little than too much. It’s also a good idea to water your Devil’s Ivy thoroughly before and after fertilising to ensure the nutrients are absorbed properly.
If you want to take your Devil’s Ivy to the next level, consider using a specialised fertiliser that’s
formulated specifically for tropical plants. These fertilisers are often rich in micronutrients and other trace elements that are essential for tropical plants to thrive.
Propagation
Devil’s Ivy is easy to propagate. You can propagate it through stem cuttings or layering. To propagate through stem cuttings, select a healthy stem and cut it just below a node. Remove the lower leaves and put the cutting in water or moist soil. It should take root in a few weeks.
To propagate through layering, select a healthy stem and bend it down to the soil surface. Make a small cut on the stem and cover it with soil. Wait for a few weeks until roots develop, then cut the stem from the mother plant and repot it.
Warning!
Devil’s Ivy gets its name for a reason. Every part of the plant is poisonous if ingested by domestic animals and humans. Therefore, it’s best to avoid this plant if you have small children or pets likely to eat plants.
In conclusion, Devil’s Ivy is a wonderful indoor plant that is easy to care for, making it an excellent choice for beginners. With its gorgeous foliage and air-purifying properties, it can add a touch of green to any space. Remember to keep its soil moist but not waterlogged, give it plenty of indirect sunlight, and avoid exposing it to direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. With proper care and attention, your Devil’s Ivy will thrive and bring a fresh, vibrant atmosphere to your home or office. Just be sure to keep it out of reach of pets and small children, as it can be toxic if ingested. Happy growing!
Other great resources
- https://lifehacker.com/this-graphic-shows-the-best-air-cleaning-plants-accord-1705307836
- https://www.flowercouncil.co.uk/campaign/august-2018-devils-ivy-houseplant-of-the-month
- https://www.epicgardening.com/golden-pothos-devils-ivy/
- https://aircontrolguy.com/top-10-air-purifying-plants-for-the-home/
- Another great blog to on plants for cleaner air.
Getting out in the garden over the Summer holidays is a great way to enjoy the warmer weather and join your plants in soaking up that sunny vitamin D.
In Australia, these hot months are typically a quieter time of the year for planting schedules, though you can check out our guide on What To Grow This Summer for some inspiration on what to plant.
Otherwise, it’s the perfect time to catch up on garden maintenance and prepare yourself for the coming year. We’ve put together a list of seven important Summer gardening jobs that we recommend to help prepare your garden for Autumn.
Before you start: One thing to remember with all of these jobs is that it’s important to start early in the day and wear adequate sun protection. Garden work is good wholesome fun, but there’s no need to do it in the glaring afternoon sun! You should always take it nice and easy.
1. Weeding
This one isn’t much fun, so let’s get it out of the way early – summertime is weeding time. These pesky invaders go into overdrive in the warmer months, and it’s important to eliminate all of your weeds before the Autumn growing season begins. Not only are they unsightly, but they steal precious nutrients from your plants at a time when they’re needed the most.
To prevent a comeback, be sure to pull out the entire root system when weeding. Chopping off the top with your whipper-snipper won’t be enough to stop the plant from coming back quickly. Using a simple handheld weeding tool can help save you some hard work, while also eradicating the weed’s root system more effectively.
Weeding can be tough, so it’s important to start early in the day and take breaks as often as necessary. If you find that you actually have a lot of weeds to pull, there’s no need to do it all in one day! Using a high-quality weedkiller can also save you some time and effort, though it’s important to take some safety precautions to protect your other plants.
2. Deadheading and Pruning
For many plants, late Summer is also the perfect time of year for some routine pruning maintenance, though it’s important not to cut back too hard during the heat. Generally, there are three types of pruning you’ll be doing at this time of year:
- Deadheading Perennials. For Spring & Summer flowers that come back every year, cutting off or ‘deadheading’ the spent flowers will help the plant redistribute nutrients to new growth over winter, allowing them to grow back stronger next season. It also prevents seeds from forming. Daisies and Dianthus can both benefit from this in late Summer, and it will stop them from spreading too vigorously via seed transmission.
- Tip Pruning The practice of tip pruning, also known as ‘pinching off’ plants, involves removing just the tip of any growing shoots as they appear. This encourages multiple new shoots to grow from the cut, which leads to denser plant growth.
It’s a particularly popular practice with flowers. You can snip the top with secateurs or simply pinch with your finger and thumb! Pinching Marigolds and other similar flowers at the start of their growing season will help to create bushier, fuller flower displays. - Trimming Tougher hedge plants like Syzygium will likely need a lot of trimming during Summer, as this is their growing season. Hedges will typically start to look very bushy if they are not trained and trimmed at least monthly. Trim them less if you are looking to increase bulk and size and are not as worried about neat aesthetics.
As you can see, these are all very light forms of pruning. Again, any hard or heavy pruning should be avoided during hot weather, as your plants will be using any available nutrients and water to simply survive the heat. Save any serious pruning for later in the year.
3. Watering Citrus Trees and Other Summer Pants.
If you’ve planted new Summer plants, it’s important to make sure that they’re getting enough water during sunny periods of no rain. Planting Citrus Trees is particularly popular at this time of year, especially in the Melbourne Metro area where our Diacos stores are located.
While citrus trees do love the warmer soil of Summer, growing citrus trees requires a lot of watering to help them reach maturity and avoid drying out in the heat. It’s good to water deeply at least once a week; this regular, thorough soaking will be more effective than lots of brief, shallow watering. You want to let the roots drink deeply to store enough moisture.
Other popular Summer plants, like Hydrangeas, will also benefit from some extra care and watering during the hottest temperature peaks. Thankfully, late February tends to see a few late Summer showers or thunderstorms. This can prove a welcome rejuvenation for your thirsty garden – and a welcome break from you holding the hose!
Hot Tip: Use Mulch To Retain Moisture
If you find that you’re struggling to keep up with regular watering, adding a layer of Mulch can prevent evaporation and help your soil to retain more moisture over longer periods.
It will also help to eliminate weeds, pests and grasses from encroaching on your tree’s space. When mulching, always leave an un-mulched gap around the base of the tree. This will help your tree to breathe and avoid causing any accidental root rot.
Most organic mulches are suitable for citrus trees. Woodchips or bark will provide good moisture retention, whilst something like lucerne or composted leaf litter will decompose faster over time, providing your citrus tree with extra nutrients for growing delicious fruit.
4. Rotate Seasonal Food Crops
Speaking of tasty homegrown food, preparing your herb & vegetable garden for a new season has got to be one of the most satisfying gardening tasks out there.
As you come towards the end of Summer, it’s time to start harvesting any warm-weather crops like tomato, basil and lettuce. Not sure if there’s more food to come? Just pick it all anyway! Regularly picking ripe fruit & veg extends the growing season by encouraging your plant to start the growth cycle again, keeping it producing for longer and longer
Late Summer is the time to make an early start on cool-weather crops – think Kale, Leek, Silverbeet and Spinach. Once the nights begin to cool, you can also plant Broccoli or Spring Onions. Herbs like Oregano and Rosemary can be planted from as early as mid-January, whilst Parsley and Chives can be planted in March as Summer ends.
Many of these cool-weather vegetables will reach fruition just in time for the cold weather to begin. You’ll feel great when you get to enjoy your fresh homegrown ingredients in hearty, soul-warming autumnal dishes.
5. Keep Pots Cool – Especially Terracotta
When the temperature starts to reach sweltering heights, plants in pots tend to do it a bit tougher than their garden-dwelling friends. This is because pots heat up in the sun, gradually increasing the temperature of the soil within and raising the risk of cooking your plant’s roots.
This is obviously not good news, and it’s a particular problem for Terracotta Pots. This is because this ancient style of Mediterranean pot is made of very porous clay, which absorbs more water than other materials. This can leave the soil drier than in other pots, so it’s important to water & soak your Terracotta frequently to help keep moisture levels stable.
Cheap black plastic pots are by far the most susceptible to heat damage. They are not ideal for outdoor Summer use, or even indoors by a window where the glass can magnify the sun’s heat. Watering the pots down can also be helpful here, but it’s not a long-term solution and it’s best to avoid keeping plants in black plastic pots for long periods if you can.
Another helpful tactic for cooling down pot plants is to add a few centimetres of Mulch. As in the garden bed, this can help trap moisture from watering and insulate the soil from sunlight, keeping the overall soil temperatures much lower.
6. Manage Your Lawn, But Don’t Overdo It
If you’ve got a lawn or a grassed area, you’ll know that it grows like absolute crazy over Summer. This is the natural growth season for most lawn grasses, and you’re likely to find yourself mowing a bit more frequently during this period – perhaps around once a week or fortnight.
However, don’t let yourself be tempted to trim your grass right down to nothing to save yourself a few mowing sessions. Keeping lawn grass too short during the growing season can disrupt its natural cycle and lead to a less resilient lawn. Instead, it’s best to tolerate it being a little shaggier than usual over the warmer months, allowing it to store more nutrients and gain a bit of momentum ahead of the winter.
Don’t panic if you see your lawn start to turn brown and crispy either. Unless it is also dying off in patches, then this is just its natural way of conserving energy during drought spells. It should tend to come back green and strong once conditions become more favourable.
7. Start Planning
Finally, it’s time to look to the year ahead. A little bit of planning in late Summer and early Autumn can help you to avoid a bare or depressing garden during the Winter months.
This is a fantastic time of year to plant many popular shrubs and flowers. Geraniums, Tulips and Black Magic Banksias are all beautiful flowers that do especially well when planted in early to mid-Autumn. Ornamental Grasses are another highly popular choice at this time of year as they are resilient to most weather conditions.
If you’re not sure what kind of plants will suit your garden, now is the time to do some research and plan ahead before it begins to get too cold and wet.
If you’d like a little help deciding, then why not ask one of our friendly gardening experts. They’re always happy to offer some expert advice on what you can grow.
By following these seven easy Summer gardening tips, you should be well on your way to growing and maintaining the perfect Autumn garden. It’s a great way to start the year right.
All of the plants we’ve mentioned in this guide are available in the Diacos Online Store, as well as plenty of helpful gardening supplies like Mulch, Fertiliser and much more.
Ornamental Grasses have become increasingly popular in Australian gardens. Their unique textures and shapes can bring elegance and sophistication into your garden design, and they’re an easy and low-maintenance plant species that any gardener can grow at home.
We’ve put together this comprehensive guide to help you incorporate these amazing plants into your own garden. We’ll talk about the best ways to use these plants in your landscape design and how to cultivate the right conditions for them to grow and flourish.
Grasses and Strap Leaf Plants
Before we begin, it’s also worth familiarising yourself with another term: strap leaf or ‘strappy’ plants. These plants have long, thin strap-like leaves that grow together in clumps. While their growth habit is highly similar to grass, they typically lack the hollow ‘culm’ stems of a true grass species (although ‘sedges’, a variety of strappy plant, also have culm stems.)
Many of the most popular ornamental grasses, including Lomandra, Dianella and Carex, are technically not grasses and are actually strap-leaf plants. However, this botanical distinction is more scientific than anything else – Lomandra is even popularly named ‘Basket Grass’.
Because their growth habits and care instructions are so similar, most gardening stores will group grasses and strap leaf plants together – including in our own Diacos Online Store.
Meanwhile, all of the general landscaping & care advice discussed in this guide can also be easily applied to most of the popular strappy plants available for home gardening.
Using Ornamental Grasses in Your Garden Design
While you might not expect grass to have the ‘wow’ factor of trees or exotic flowers, it’s quite common to hear gardeners refer to these plants as the ‘quiet achievers’ or ‘unsung heroes’ of garden landscaping, and there are plenty of very good reasons for this!
Well-placed grasses can add elegance, flow, and form to your garden in ways both subtle and striking. There are a lot of clever options for incorporating these plants into your garden design, and they can be especially useful for filling the tight and tricky spots in your yard.
Below, we’ll talk about some of our favourite creative ways to use ornamental grasses:
Borders and Edging
Grasses are a perfect border plant, as their versatile nature makes them easy to plant in tight spaces and alongside most other plants. Their clumps of thin, delicate leaves will work to soften harder edges like fencelines or stone paths. Planting beautiful flowering grasses like Kangaroo Paw or Liriope Monroe will create walls of colour during the blooming season.
Shorter grasses can make neat & attractive borders around areas like patios, paths or garden beds, while longer grasses are highly effective when planted as privacy screens. There are a dizzying array of colours to choose from, even when selecting non-flowering grasses, from deep reds and purples to lush greens and shimmering golds.
Creating Movement and Flow
Ornamental grasses can add a lot of drama to the garden as the wind gently tussles their many leaves. Longer grass plants like Fountain Grass or Lomandra Longifolia will dance and sway on the breeze, bringing a calming sense of movement and flow to your garden.
This calming effect can work particularly well when incorporated with Asian Zen Garden elements like water features, boulders or pebbles or a central ornamental tree. When placed right, they can influence visual flow by cleverly directing the eye around the garden.
Backgrounds and Foregrounds
Grasses can also make spectacular backdrops or foregrounds for other displays. While planting grass as an edge or boundary is more about creating structure and definition, this technique is all about experimenting with different textures, colours and contrasting shades to create interesting, multilayered garden displays.
The neutral tones and dense soft foliage of grasses tend to complement most other garden plants particularly well, and there is an opportunity here to go as far as your imagination can take you. For instance, the dense linear lines of a flowering grass like Agapanthus can have interesting visual effects, drawing the eye to the area and clearly highlighting the foreground.
Don’t be afraid to mix multiple different grass types or try out unique and creative layouts, as you’d be surprised at how well it can all come together! Some grasses, like Phormium, have a wide range of differently coloured variants available to choose from.
Planting Practical
Grass adds more than just visual appeal to a garden, and its many practical properties are part of the reason it has become such a popular choice for gardeners. As mentioned, the general hardiness of these plants allows them to grow in tight spots, and they’re a highly effective ground cover for suppressing weed growth. They grow fast and are hard to kill.
Their dense root systems are also beneficial to the soil, which is something we’ll talk about later in a bit more detail. Finally, flowering native grasses like Acacia Cognata, Kangaroo Paw or even Pennisetum Rubrum (Fountain Grass) are especially appealing to wildlife.
Even just a small amount of Australian grass in your yard will attract beautiful native birdlife and beneficial native pollinators to your garden. What’s not to love about that!
Caring for Ornamental Grass
As well as their aesthetic appeal, these plants also have a great reputation for being low-maintenance and easy to look after. If you want to grow a garden that isn’t going to take too much time and energy to maintain, planting Ornamental Grass is a fantastic option.
Grasses tend to originate from arid deserts, steppes or plains environments, where drought conditions are common and soil is poor. This is especially true of Native Australian grasses and strappy plants, which are very popular in Melbourne and make up a large selection of our range at Diacos. Most can generally be planted at any time of the year.
Still, every plant is unique and it’s always worth checking the care instructions for your specific plant. Grasses from other climate zones may potentially have very different needs.
Watering
In general, most of the grasses and strappy plants we stock at Diacos are very drought resistant and won’t need too much water once they are established. However, young grasses will need to be watered every second day, especially if you have planted them during the dry summer months.
Once the grass begins to grow steadily and spread, it will have started developing a healthy root system. You can begin to water less, gradually dropping down to once or twice a week. During the wetter part of the year, regular rain should be more than enough to keep your grass happy.
Be sure that drainage is adequate and do not overwater, as most grasses will not tolerate having soggy roots. For this reason, you should also avoid areas that are exposed to water run-off from drains or other sources. For instance, people often plant grass in driveways, however in many cases this area may receive too much run-off water to be a viable spot.
Spacing
When planting, ensure your grasses have plenty of space as they will need room to spread out and grow healthily. Small grass plants should be planted around 30cm apart, whilst taller plants can sometimes need up to a metre of space to thrive..
A commonly used rule-of-thumb is to space plants at around half of their maximum height. For example, a 1.5m grass would need 75cm of space around it. It’s also okay to plant closer together for a more tightly packed look, but you may get less growth overall.
Soil & Fertiliser
These tough little plants also aren’t that fussy about the soil they’re in, though good drainage is absolutely essential. Dense, soggy clay soil is the least likely to successfully support a grass plant, and Australian Natives are especially likely to prefer loose and rocky soil.
One upside of most grass plants is that their root systems are strong, fibrous and typically very dense. They can often grow to surprising depths, and they play an important role in repairing soil. The networks of fast-spreading, dense roots bind your soil together to store nutrients and improve drainage. As grasses are tolerant of most conditions, planting them can actually be a great way to remedy loose soil or improve difficult conditions.
Most grasses will not need any fertiliser, though it’s okay to fertilise annually if they are performing poorly or struggling to get enough nutrients. Add a slow-release liquid fertiliser, ideally in Spring as the new growth is beginning to emerge. Avoid fertilising in the heat of summer or during the peaks of winter.
Sunlight
Finally, full sun is the preferred condition for most grasses and strap leaf plants. Don’t worry too much about sheltering them from the elements either – they are tolerant of salt, harsh winds, humidity and even frost.
If you are specifically looking to fill a shady area with ground cover, Liriope is known as a good shade-tolerant grass and should continue to grow well in partial shade. We stock many interesting varieties of this hardy grass, including Royal Purple, Monroe White, Evergreen Giant and Summer Beauty.
Other popular grasses are still likely to survive in a partially shaded area, but they probably won’t reach quite the same potential as they would in a full-sun environment.
Dividing Ornamental Grasses Annually
Dividing established grasses is something that our customers often ask us about. Dividing a tall clump of grass can stop it from growing too large and unwieldy.
You’ll know it’s time to divide when a hollow starts to form in the middle of your foliage clump, usually around 2-3 years of growth. The best time to divide grasses is in late Winter or early Spring before any Summer growth begins.
To divide, gently dig up your clump and use a sharp shovel to split it in half. If it is particularly large, you can quarter it or cut several root sections off of the side. Cut out any old canes from the previous years’ growth and expose the new roots shooting through. This ABC Gardening Video offers a handy visual guide to the process.
The practice of dividing allows you to propagate your plant and plant the divided section elsewhere in your garden. Replant at least one section of the divided clump in the original garden bed, and plant the others wherever you desire!
If you are keen to divide your grass plant but have nowhere else that you want to grow it, why not ‘pass the grass’ and gift it in a pot to a friend or neighbour? They will be sure to thank you for this beautiful new addition to their garden
This has been our comprehensive guide to ornamental grasses. Once you understand how to incorporate this easy, low-maintenance plant into a smart & sophisticated garden design, there is simply no better time to get out there and start growing!
You can check out our huge range of Grasses and Strappy Plants online or in one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres. Still got a specific question about grass that you need answering? Ask one of our helpful gardening experts and they will be more than happy to help you out.
If you’re relatively new to gardening, the world of potting mixes and soils can feel a little overwhelming. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, it can be tempting to assume they’re all pretty similar or to pick one almost at random.
However, there is a lot of variation between potting mixes, and they’re certainly not created equal. Choosing the right potting mix can often be the difference between your plants living and dying.
In this guide, we’ll help you understand the basics of Potting Mix and soil to help you make sure you’re choosing the right blend for your plants.
We’ll talk about what a high-quality potting mix should contain, and the science that goes into understanding how potting mixes work. We’ll also talk about different potting mixes for different types of plants, and a few things you should always avoid in a mix.
What Is Potting Mix?
Potting mix is a combination of different minerals and organic materials that are beneficial to the growth of your plants. Most potting mixes will contain soil as part of this mix, and are sometimes referred to interchangeably as ‘potting soils’. Other mixes are totally soil-free.
The goal of a potting mix is to replicate the ideal soil conditions for particular groups of plants. This is not just relevant for potted plants, but also for outdoor garden beds, where the natural backyard soil conditions may be nutrient-deficient, unsuitable or unpredictable.
Generally, there are three basic types of soil that plants will grow in:
- Sandy Soil is loose, gritty and will fall apart in your hand. It’s light and drains very fast, but it doesn’t retain nutrients well.
- Clay Soil is tightly packed, heavy and firm. It holds water and nutrients easily but it drains poorly.
- Rich Composted Soil is nutrient-rich and contains organic matter (i.e. compost or loam). It’s slightly loose, fertile and drains just right. It should crumble gently in your hand when poked.
While plants from some specific regions will prefer sandy or clay soils, most plants are looking for rich and fertile soil that is relatively loose, drains easily and contain a good amount of decomposing organic matter for extra nutrients. Therefore, most premium general-use potting mixes are formulated to recreate this fertile & loamy soil environment.
What Should a Premium Potting Mix Look Like?
A good-quality potting mix should be formulated to contain the perfect balance of different nutrients in order to encourage healthy plant growth.
The combination of ingredients in a general-purpose potting mix also shouldn’t adversely change the soil acidity, unless that is the desired effect. Finally, a premium mix should also contain a mix of inorganic matter to help loosen up compacted soil and improve drainage. Volcanic rocks like Perlite or Vermiculite are highly popular drainage additives.
When it comes to organic materials, some are more highly prized than others for their various properties. For instance, Peat Moss is considered a premium soil additive as it absorbs a lot of moisture and then decomposes extra slowly, allowing the soil to hold onto water and nutrients for much longer. It’s also slow to grow and farm, making it a rare material.
Other plant-specialised potting mixes – like mixes designed for fruit trees – may decide to use higher amounts of ingredients that are full of useful secondary nutrients, like Calcium and Magnesium. It’s not always as simple as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ potting mix – it’s all about thoughtfully combining ingredients to perfectly meet the needs of the plant at hand.
The Science of Potting Mix and Soil Ingredients
There are several natural elements in soil, many of which are absorbed by plants and converted into available nutrients. Their naturally occurring levels can be supplemented by adding fertiliser or decomposing organic matter like compost or manure to the soil. You’ll want to look for ingredients that contain these important elements when you’re choosing a potting mix for your garden.
NPK
Of the chemical elements naturally present in your soil, the major ones that affect plant health include Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). The levels of these three nutrients are called the NPK Ratio, which is outlined on every bag of potting mix. They’re also the key ingredients in most mainstream fertilisers.
All three of these nutrients are naturally produced when bacteria break down the organic matter in potting mix, compost or soil. Together, NPK plays a highly important role in fueling the photosynthesis process and aiding the growth of leaves, root systems, new shoots and flowers.
When choosing a potting mix for its NPK ratio, consider that some plants may have different requirements. For instance, too much nitrogen will cause some flowering plants to divert energy towards growing foliage instead. Meanwhile, some Australian Native Plants (like Banksia) are sensitive to phosphorus. It’s always a good idea to research your specific plant before choosing a potting mix.
Secondary and Trace Elements
Aside from NPK, there are many other elements present in soil and potting mix that can contribute to plant health. The ones that are required in larger quantities – Sulphur (S), Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) – can be thought of as Secondary Elements. Other elements – like Iron, Zinc or Calcium – are only needed in trace amounts. Adding more than that trace amount can often cause negative effects.
These other nutrients aren’t as vital as NPK, but they still play important roles. Some are commonly found in premium potting mix, or in specialised potting mixes and fertilisers designed for different types of plants. Important secondary and trace elements include:
- Calcium (Ca): Helps to build strength in cell walls, similar to how it functions in our own bones. Most soil will naturally have good calcium levels, but acidic soils may be lacking.
- Magnesium (Mg): Magnesium is a vital part of the chlorophyll particle, the key ingredient in the photosynthesis process. Trace quantities of Iron (Fe) and Manganese (Mn) are also required for similar reasons.
- Sulphur (S): Helps to form proteins and is also involved in the production of chlorophyll. Adding Gypsum to soil can often improve sulphur levels.
- Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn): These minerals activate plant enzymes that help to keep leaves green and lush. Deficiencies can be common in highly acidic soils.
- Boron (B): Helps to grow tissue in roots, shoots, flowers and fruits. It can be deficient in soils that are too alkaline, which can lead to soft, weak fruit and veggies.
Acidity
Wondering what we mean when we talk about alkaline and acidity? Well, the combination of these elements also contributes to one other important factor – soil acidity.
Soil acidity is measured on a pH scale, which counts backwards. Anything above 7pH is considered Alkaline, soil with a pH of 6 or less is Acidic, and a pH of 7 is Neutral. The lower the number, the more acidic the soil. This applies to potting mixes too.
Different plants will have different acidity preferences, so it’s something you need to keep in mind. You can read more about soil acidity in our Guide to Garden Basics. If you’re interested in a deep dive, this scientific report covers the topic in comprehensive detail.
Diaco’s Premium Potting Mix
As you can probably tell, we have a lot to say about potting mix ingredients and their relative quality! To that end, our team of expert gardeners have used their combined knowledge to create our own Diacos Premium Potting Mix, a highly effective general-use potting soil formula that complies with all Australian standards for a premium-grade potting mix.
It includes premium ingredients like sphagnum peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, and lava rock. These ingredients work together to aerate the soil, retain moisture, and provide essential nutrients for plant growth. It’s also made with slow-release fertiliser pellets that will feed your plants nutrients for up to 3 months – cutting down on the time you need to spend fertilising.
Finally, we’ve added a wetting agent to help the soil absorb water more easily, which is especially important during the hot summer days that we experience here in Melbourne.
A Guide to Buying Different Potting Mixes
Our Diaco’s premium blend is a fantastic choice for general use, but sometimes it’s a better idea to use a mix that’s been specifically designed for the type of plant you are growing. Here are some of the most popular specialised potting mixes that we stock in our online store:
- Australian Natives need potting mixes that are low in phosphorus. Australian soils are naturally low in this nutrient, and many popular native plants have adapted to this over time. This makes them extra sensitive to the high amounts found in mainstream potting mix and fertiliser. We stock this fantastic blend from Attunga Native Potting Mix that does a great job nurturing your natives.
- Succulents are native to harsh, sandy environments. They tend to prefer a looser potting mix that contains a higher quantity of sandy soil, as well as rocks like Perlite. This provides lots of extra aeration and faster drainage, replicating the perfect semi-arid environment for succulents to thrive. Specialised Cacti and Succulent Mix can also be found in our store.
- Fruit and Citrus Trees enjoy nutritious, loamy soil with great drainage. Typically, a fruit and citrus potting mix might include roughly equal parts of organic compost, sand, perlite (or similar), and peat moss to optimise drainage and nutrition. High-performing mixes like Grow Better’s Fruit and Citrus Potting Mix will also contain a slow-release fertiliser full of vital nutrients that help the fruit to grow.
- Gardenia, Azalea and Camellia all prefer acidic soil. Therefore, an ideal potting mix for these popular plants will also need to maintain the correct pH levels. We stock a great Gardenia, Azalea and Camellia Potting Mix from Grow Better that contains the perfect blend of nutrients and trace elements to provide nutrition and maintain acidity. The addition of a rapid-soak wetting agent also helps to provide extra hydration.
Potting Mixes to Avoid
Finally, we’ll leave you with a few quick things to avoid. Yes, we did just say that it’s not always as simple as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ potting mixes – but there are definitely some red flags out there! You won’t find any of these issues in our store, but it’s always good to know what to watch out for:
- Uncertified Potting Mix.: Potting mix sold in Australia has to pass Minimum National Standards. If a brand of potting mix just looks a bit off, and you can’t find any evidence that it complies with these requirements, it may be worth giving it a miss.
- ‘Super Cheap’ Potting Mix Healthy, good-quality soil additives cost gardening suppliers money to source or produce. If someone is selling a bag of potting mix at shockingly low prices – think around $5 or less – then it’s likely to be very low quality. It’s not worth the risk of damaging your plants!
- Unclear Ingredients. Finally, if you’re not sure what’s in a potting mix, think twice before using it. NPK ratios and even secondary elements should be clearly labelled somewhere on the bag or at least in the store. If they aren’t, it’s a bit fishy. It’s best to avoid it as you don’t know the outcome it could have on your plants.
Understanding the difference between high-quality and low-quality potting mixes can help you to choose the right one for your garden. Ultimately, it will help you to grow stronger and healthier plants. Happy gardening!
Hopefully, this guide has helped to give you a better understanding of what goes into a potting mix, the differing quality between potting mixes, and the way that it all works.
If you’re not sure which Potting Mix to use in your garden, or you’d like to know more about our Diacos Premium Potting Mix, then just ask our friendly and helpful staff. When it comes to finding garden solutions, we’re always happy to help!
The sunniest time of the year is upon us. For many, the holiday season is a great time to get out and enjoy a bit of free time in the garden.
Some gardeners will try and tell you that Australian Summers are too hot for growing plants, and that it’s time to put the tools down – but not us! Instead, we reckon that you want your garden to look as lush and enticing as possible before all the BBQs and gatherings begin.
There are plenty of plants that love to grow in hot or otherwise harsh conditions, including flowering plants, and you often wouldn’t expect it from how delicate they can look. Here are 7 of our favourite plants to grow in the Summer months:
1. Petunias
These gorgeous multicoloured flowers are easy to grow and they love the warmer weather. Petunias are annuals that start to bloom around early summer, once the sun has begun to warm up the soil to at least 15-20 degrees Celcius. Petunias will continue to produce a full bloom until the first frost of winter, providing you with months of joy in the garden.
These pretty and highly affordable flowers are a fantastic way to quickly add a burst of colour to your garden, especially when planting at the beginning of the blooming season. We also stock the Petunia Supertunia, a high-performing variety of Petunia that comes in a range of exciting colours, and Calibrachoa, a similar-looking perennial flower that is closely related.
Planting Petunias
Plant Petunias in fertile, well-drained soil that has been prepared with compost. They will grow in a garden bed but are also well-suited to pots. Water daily when the plants are still establishing – once they look healthy and mature, water semi-regularly to keep the soil moist.
Adding fertiliser every 2-3 weeks can also assist with flower growth. You may see your flowers wilt away on scorching days (around 40 degrees) but there’s no need to stress. These tough plants are very tolerant of heat and humidity and will flower again as soon as it cools. Deadheading any spent flowers can also help to extend the bloom for a longer period.
2. Crepe Myrtle Trees (Lagerstroemia)
It’s rare for non-native ornamental trees to thrive during an Australian summer, but the flowering Lagerstroemia Tree – or ‘Crepe Myrtle’ Tree – loves the warm, dry conditions and the full sun.
These trees are highly versatile and can be kept small in pots or grown large in the garden, making them a great option for all sorts of different gardens. They can also provide some great Summer shade when allowed to grow tall!
These deciduous trees begin to bloom in early Summer before losing their foliage in a spectacular show of colour during Autumn. They have an incredibly delicate, multi-layered flower that looks almost like folded ornamental paper – hence the name. We also stock a stunning ‘Diamonds in The Dark Indica’ variety that produces the same delicate flowers in bold, fiery colours.
Planting Lagerstroemia
Lagerstroemia trees can be planted in fertile loamy soil with good drainage, any time from late Spring to early Summer. Planting later during the blooming season in mid-Summer is possible, but you will need to give your tree some extra water for a while. This will help it continue to produce flowers while it adapts to the conditions of its new home.
Otherwise, this is a pleasantly low-maintenance tree and will only need to be watered when the soil is dry. Annual fertilising in Spring can help with growth but it is not strictly necessary. Finally, this easygoing tree will also tend to take an attractive shape without much pruning. However, you’ll still need to prune back after planting if you’ve planted bare root – our Bare Root Tree Guide explains why.
3. Hydrangeas
This classic perennial flower is one of our most popular plants at this time of year. The dense flowering bulbs look beautiful as they sway gently in the wind and the glossy green foliage will bring a lush feel to your garden. Late spring to early Summer is prime Hydrangea planting season, with their flowers beginning to bloom en masse shortly afterwards.
Known for their ability to change colour based on the acidity of your soil, the Hydrangea’s cool shades of blue, white, pink and purple are soothing on a hot Summer afternoon. For something more intricate, we also stock the Hydrangea Lacecap variety. This gorgeous flowering shrub blooms with a ring of larger flowers around a cluster of smaller, semi-open flowerheads.
Planting Hydrangeas
Like many of the other plants on this list, Hydrangeas love fertile, loamy soil mixed with compost (around 10%). It’s important to make sure that drainage is good, as these plants will need lots of regular watering through Summer. Aim to always keep your soil moist, but don’t let it become soggy or soaked, as this can potentially cause rot or fungus to form.
Positioning your Hydrangea is important. Ideally, you want it to receive cool sunlight in the mornings and filtered shade in the afternoon when the summer sun is harsh. This flowering shrub is therefore a perfect fit for the dappled light of a tree canopy, and evergreen varieties can even survive in full shade.
You also need to consider the wind – high winds may damage the flowers, but a light breeze is important to prevent any mould build-up in the flower buds. Finally, an annual dose of fertiliser in spring will provide all the extra nutrients that this plant needs to thrive.
For more detailed information on growing these beautiful flowers, check out our guide on How to Grow and Care for Hydrangeas
4. Citrus Trees
Citrus trees thrive in warm soil, making late Spring/early Summer a great time to plant a fruit tree in your garden. Fruit trees can make any home garden feel more wholesome and cozy, with their lush leaves, fresh juicy fruit and cool Summer shade. Growing a fruit tree will create memories that will last your family a lifetime. Not only will a citrus tree look fantastic in your garden, but it will provide you with plenty of delicious fresh fruit to eat and share.
Planting Citrus Trees
Citrus loves rich composted soil that has been warmed up by the sun and has great drainage. It’s a good idea to plant your fruit tree in late Spring or early Summer, as planting in the dry heat of mid-Summer may unfortunately shock or kill your tree. They have relatively shallow & fragile roots, so be sure to give them a bit of space when planting.
You should water your tree twice weekly while it is young – once established, you can drop back to watering deeply once every few weeks. These trees can be fertilised as often as once a month, but take care not to feed the tree during flowering season or it may grow much less fruit as a result. Your tree may become gnarled and congested as it ages – don’t be shy about cutting back and pruning unattractive branches as desired.
5. Marigold
The Marigold is a beautiful annual flower that blooms all through the warmer months, and some varieties are even perennial. These bright yellow and orange flowers can add the perfect dash of colour to any garden, with a warm and sunny feel that’s hard to match. The flowers bloom in abundance, and can be used to make stunning flower garlands.
Marigolds are also known for their ability to repel common garden pests like spider mites or whitefly. This makes them a perfect companion plant for Spring and Summer veggies like tomatoes, lettuce, kale or basil. Best of all, these flowers are low-cost and extremely low-maintenance. They’re something that any gardener can grow!
Planting Marigolds
As mentioned, these plants are very low-effort and are likely to survive in any soil. However, fertile loamy soil with good drainage will give the best results. They will enjoy full sun conditions, with a very high tolerance for dryness and heat, but will tolerate part shade. Plant 20-30cm apart and be sure to water in well.
Marigold care is about balance and not overdoing it. After planting, it’s important to water semi-regularly but not too often, usually once the top layer of soil has dried out. Otherwise, soggy soil and overwatering may cause your Marigolds to rot. During the flowering season, you can fertilise every 1-3 months with a liquid fertiliser to keep your flowers well-fed but not over-fertilised.
6. Lomandra
This hardy Australian native is an extremely tough little plant that’s perfect for the warmer weather. A native species of ornamental grass, Lomandra comes in many varieties and can survive harsh winters or dry Summer droughts with ease. It looks incredible when placed around borders, used as a low-edging plant, or layered in front of other native plants.
The long strap-like leaves can bring a sense of calm and serenity to your garden as they sway in the breeze. Your Lomandra will start to bloom spiky yellow flowers over Winter and Spring that emit a wonderful pleasant scent. This plant is affordable, low-maintenance and will look very elegant in the garden – what more could you want?
Planting Lomandra
The Lomandra is an incredibly low-effort plant that will survive in most conditions. It can be planted in any type of soil (including clay and sandy soils) and will tolerate any pH level. What’s more, it’s just as happy growing in a part-shade position as it is in a full-sun position. It really is that easy!
Adding fertiliser or mulch once a year, ideally in spring, can help to encourage further growth. Lomandra grass will only need occasional watering unless conditions are drought-like. You will see the tips of the grass blades start to turn brown if the plant is not getting enough water.
7. Bacopa
The Bacopa is a trailing perennial and a fantastic warm-season plant, with dozens of soft white, purple or pink-coloured flowers that begin blooming in late Spring and continue all the way through to Autumn. Bacopa is an old favourite amongst seasoned gardeners, but is perhaps not quite as well known as other plants on this list. These flowers can be planted in your garden in early Summer and enjoyed straight away.
Bacopa are trailing plants that grow very quickly, which makes them highly desirable as ground cover. Planting a Bacopa can be a great way to fill a garden bed quickly and stop other weeds and grasses from moving in. They also look stunning when used as edging borders along pathways, low fencelines or other plants.
Planting Bacopa
There are two conditions that this flower loves – sunshine and moisture. This plant is semi-aquatic in the wild and grows near bodies of water, so it’s important to water this one regularly and keep it moist. It likes heat so it will enjoy a full sun position, though if it is forecasted to be a particularly dry summer then a part shade area may offer more shelter.
Otherwise, the Bacopa is a versatile and easy plant to grow. Unlike other flowers on this list, it can be as fertilised as regularly as every 2-3 weeks to help with blooming. Deadheading any spent flowers can also assist younger plants to bloom longer. As a (very) fast-growing trailing plant, you may find that you want to lightly train or prune your Bacopa foliage occasionally to send it in the right direction!
These 5 colourful flowering plants are some of our favourite things to grow in a Summer garden. They’re attractive, affordable, and generally easy to plant and look after.
However, this is just the start of what you can grow in warmer weather. Citrus Trees, Succulents and Australian Natives are all wonderful plants that will generally enjoy the sunnier, drier conditions of Summer.
If you’ve got any gardening questions at all or you’d like to have a chat about what to grow in your garden this Summer, feel free to ask one of our Diacos gardening experts today.
The Hydrangea is a classic flowering shrub, with lush glossy foliage and dense blooms of colourful, delicate flowers.This beautiful deciduous perennial will make a fantastic addition to any Summer garden.
Hydrangeas are easily one of our favourite flowering shrubs here at Diacos, and they’re highly popular with our customers at this time of the year. That’s why we’ve put together a comprehensive guide to help you grow and care for these stunning plants.
You can also check out our Quick Guide to Hydrangeas to view this information in a shorter format, or learn how to Make Your Own Hydrangea Wreath for the Christmas holidays
Planting a Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are flowering shrubs native to Asia and The Americas. This hardy plant will continue to grow and blossom for many years when kept in the right conditions. Some of the most popular varieties include the common Mophead, the Lacecap and the Evergreen.
Hydrangeas have developed a reputation as popular summer plants, with their exotic blooms bursting into life from late November through to early February. However, these durable shrubs can actually be planted in your garden at almost any time of the year, except during the peak of a harsh winter.
The best time to plant is usually in late Spring or early Summer, just in time for the flowering season to begin. Planting towards the end of Autumn, when conditions are mild, can also yield good results if the plant is mature enough to withstand the colder weather.
Lightly break up your soil first for extra drainage, before planting the roots to around the same depth as the pot they came in. Water your plant in well if the conditions are dry. Otherwise, a good soaking of Spring rain should get the job done nicely.
Soil and Drainage
We recommend preparing your soil before planting your Hydrangeas. This will help to create the best possible conditions for those stunning seasonal blooms to arrive.
These shrubs will need a rich and fertile environment in order to flower successfully. A well-aerated, loamy soil mixed with around 10% organic matter (like humus or compost) will create an ideal environment for your shrub to produce flowers.
For dense clay soils, try adding Gypsum to help break up the dirt and improve aeration. If your soil is sandy, adding Peat Moss or Mushroom Compost can help to absorb more moisture. The aim is to try and strike the right balance between allowing moisture to drain while still letting the plant absorb enough water to survive.
Adding a good quality Slow-Release Fertiliser after planting can also help to increase the nutrient levels in your soil. It’s a good idea to fertilise annually at the beginning of Spring. This is one hungry shrub, and the top-up of nutrients will help it to produce better flowers. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilisers, as they tend to encourage more foliage growth instead.
Watering
It’s all in the name – ‘Hydra’. These lush green plants love a drink of water, and they can become especially thirsty in the dry summer heat. Generally, a Hydrangea should be watered every few days, though this may differ slightly depending on your soil quality.
As mentioned earlier, drainage is one of the most important factors for creating a large healthy bloom. While this shrub does require a moderate to high level of watering, it’s still possible to overwater your plant if the moisture has nowhere to go. Moist soil is ideal, but soaking wet soil will contribute to poor blooms and create an environment for rot and fungus.
If you find that your soil is staying wet for a long time, reduce your watering frequency immediately and try to improve drainage. On the other hand, you may find yourself watering frequently but struggling to maintain moisture levels in the heat. In this case, adding a layer of Mulch will help to retain that moisture longer and reduce the time you spend watering.
Sunlight
Placement is another very important factor when caring for these plants. Ideally, you want to find somewhere with good sun exposure in the morning and filtered shade in the afternoons.
This dappled shade will help to protect your flowers from drying out too much during the harsher summer temperatures. Bigleaf varieties like the Evergreen Hydrangea (Dichroa Versicolor) are even more tolerant of partial shade conditions, making them ideal for those tough shady spots like corners, fencelines or tree-canopy areas.
One other thing to consider when choosing a position is providing suitable airflow, and not just so you can watch them sway gently in the breeze! While strong winds may damage the brittle stems, the occasional light wind blowing through will stop moisture from collecting in the dense flowerheads and help to prevent potential rot and fungus buildup.
Hydrangeas can change colour.
Hydrangea flowers are well known for their peculiar ability to change colour. This is especially common with popular Mophead varieties and the intricate Lacecap flower.
This colour change certainly isn’t a random occurrence. In fact, it’s got everything to do with the acidity (pH level) of your soil. This means that it’s something you can easily control by adding popular garden additives. It’s important to note that when altering your soil, pH levels will change gradually – you won’t see a difference overnight .
Adding Garden Lime will lower the acidity of your soil by raising the pH level of your garden beds. Meanwhile, decomposing compost and mulch will naturally start to lower pH and increase acidity. Adding small amounts of coffee grounds or even sulphur are also popular ways to increase acidity.
For blue flowers, aim for acidic soil with a pH level of below 5.5. Meanwhile, pink flowers will grow in more alkaline soils with a pH of 5.5 or over. White and purple flowers are typically unaffected by any acidic changes.
Pruning and Maintenance
Light pruning is necessary to keep your shrub well maintained, and it will encourage new flower growth for the next season. Though many people may feel hesitant to give flowering plants the chop, removing the dead flowers when summer is over will help the plant to redistribute important resources towards the new shoots.
When removing the dead flowers, look for a pair of buds located on the stem. You want to make the cut around 5cm above these for the best chance of promoting new growth. When doing a late Summer prune, try not to remove more than 30% of the plant at any given time, otherwise you may risk sending it into shock.
It’s also important that you don’t touch any new shoots that are coming up from the base of the plant. These will become the start of next year’s bloom, and pruning them early may cause the flowers to bloom sporadically or even stop them from flowering at all.
Some parts of the foliage will start to wilt and die off in late winter as the plant recovers from the dormant season. This is a good time to prune your plant back a little bit harder, removing any leaves that look like they are dying, diseased or otherwise gangly and unproductive.
Pest & Disease Control
Unfortunately, the foliage of Hydrangeas are susceptible to common garden pests. These include Aphids, Scale insects (which can be identified by clusters of small white eggs) and Slugs. All of these infestations can be easily removed with common pesticides.
Other common issues include rot, fungus and powdery mildew, all of which can arise from this shrub’s shady location and the potential for overwatering. Remove and dispose of any leaves that appear to be infected and apply a good quality fungicide to the shrub. Fungicides are formulated to kill diseases quickly without causing any serious harm to your plant.
Propagation
Another great thing about Hydrangeas is that they are very easy to propagate from cuttings. In the Summer, soft tips or stem cuttings of around 5-10 cm can be used for propagation. In the Winter months, you can use 10 cm cuttings of hardened wood instead.
In all of these cases, propagation is as simple as dipping your cutting in Rooting Hormone or cutting gel and placing it in a pot of Propagating Mix. Keep it moist and well sheltered in a full shade position. In 2-4 weeks, your cutting should start to take root.
You’ll know that rooting has begun when the plant resists being gently tugged on. New leaf growth should also begin to appear. At this stage, your shrub is ready to be transported to a larger pot and moved to a filtered shade location.
This has been our comprehensive guide to growing and caring for Hydrangeas. When the right conditions are met, this gorgeous and easy-to-care for shrub will bloom year after year, bringing colour and happiness to your garden.
If you’ve got further questions about growing Hydrangeas, feel free to ask our friendly and knowledgeable team. Our Diacos staff are expert gardeners who are happy to help you solve any gardening issues. We also provide advice & quotes for planning and landscaping.
Spring is the perfect time of year for gardening, and there’s no better time to plant a veggie garden. Many of the vegetables that you grow in Spring will be ready just in time for you to enjoy them in delicious, fresh Summer salads. Homegrown food really is the best way to eat!
From the start of September through to the end of November, the southeast region of Australia reliably enjoys moist and mildly sunny conditions that are ideal for starting a healthy and fast-growing garden. Seasonal vegetables and herbs will thrive in this weather.
For other relevant info, check out our other guides on Preparing Your Garden for Spring and How To Grow a Vegetable Garden. For non-veggie gardens, we’ve also published a helpful guide on The 10 Best Plants to Plant in Spring.
Our Favourite Spring Vegetables to Plant
Here are our 10 favourite backyard crops to grow in Spring. Of course, this is just the beginning of all the different edible plants that you can grow in your garden – the best thing about growing your own food is that it’s all up to you!
1. Tomatoes
As a proudly Italian-owned family business, it might not surprise you that tomatoes are one of our favourite vegetables to grow once the warmer weather comes around! These juicy little wonders come in so many unique varieties, and now is the perfect time to plant them.
Plant your tomatoes from late September to early October, unless conditions are still frosty. These plants absolutely love warmth, but they don’t do well at all with the cold. If you’re experiencing a particularly frosty spring, you may have to wait until conditions improve. Ideally, the soil should be around 20 degrees Celsius or 15 degrees at a minimum.
Space tomatoes 30-50cm apart in a full sun position, keep well mulched and fertilise monthly with a high-calcium fertiliser, as calcium deficiency can be a common issue with tomatoes. If you’re transplanting a young plant, dig a very deep hole and plant to roughly halfway up the stem, tucking the tips of the first leaves into the soil. This will help your tomatoes produce a much healthier root system.
Water tomatoes every morning when young, with less frequent watering as they begin to mature. You still need to be careful to not let your soil become too soggy, so take a break if it isn’t draining. Pick tomatoes when just ripe and firm for fresh salads, or let them start to get extra-ripe for flavourful soups and pasta sauces. Bellissimo!
2. Lettuce
Lettuce is the classic leafy green to plant in your garden. It may start to struggle in the harsh Summer heat, so plant lettuce in early spring to get the most out of your plant. Soil temps of around 10-20 degrees celsius are needed. These plants grow fast, so you should be eating lettuce leaves within a month or two!
The best thing about lettuce is that it’s super easy for anyone to grow, making it a great vegetable for beginner gardeners. Storebought lettuce can also become quite expensive at times, so having some in your yard can help you to avoid those crazy lettuce prices.
Space lettuce around 20cm apart and plant just below the surface of your soil – go too deep and it may not grow. Water at least twice weekly for a better flavour and lay mulch to keep the soil consistently moist, as dry soil can cause bitter lettuce. This is a pretty hungry plant, so try to fertilise with plant food fortnightly or even weekly in the early stages of growth.
The most important thing to watch out for with lettuce is pests like aphids and slugs. Your lettuce is so tasty that everybody wants a little nibble! Mixing chilli or vinegar with water and spraying these bugs is a natural way to keep them off your leaves without using a pesticide.
3. Basil
Speaking of those tasty leafy greens, a warm Spring is an excellent time to get started with a Basil crop. It’s also a great time to plant other Mediterranean herbs like parsley, thyme, coriander and oregano. Herb gardens can easily be grown on an apartment windowsill.
When to plant basil depends on the weather, as it will need warm soil to grow – a bit like your tomatoes. Once you experience a week (or so) of 10-20 degree days, and you’re confident there will be no more morning frosts, it’s time to get planting. Usually, Melbourne starts to see these conditions in mid-October. If not, seed them inside and move plants outside when it heats up.
Keep the soil around your basil moist once planted, but avoid getting the leaves too drenched. Every 3 days or so should be fine for a watering. Mulch can help greatly to keep moisture in, and a light feed of fertiliser or compost every 4-6 weeks will also help your basil with growth. Prune back any flowers and top leaves weekly, to encourage leaf growth instead. Basil that has flowered tends to have less flavoursome leaves.
This tasty & refreshing herb pairs well with tomatoes, and the relationship between these two actually runs very deep! They have a symbiotic relationship, and planting them together will help to protect the tomato fruits from pests like aphids, fruit flies and mosquitoe4
4. Cucumbers
Cucumbers make the perfect refreshing snack in Summer. Like tomato and basil, these are very much a ‘warm soil’ plant (15 to 20 degrees is ideal) so it’s safest to plant cucumbers from mid-October when the chance of frost and cold temperatures is much lower. They like 6-8 hours of full sun a day!
Plant your cucumbers around 3cm deep and at least 30cm apart. These love a fertile environment and will benefit greatly from well-composted soil, weekly deep watering and fortnightly fertilising. You should start to see Cucumbers on your vine in 6-8 weeks, and it’s best to harvest the vegetables once they reach a length of around 10-15cm.
Cucumbers grow on creeping vines that will crawl all over your garden, so it’s good to install a trellis to give the plant somewhere to go. Keeping the fruits high off of the soil will also drastically lower the risk of fungal diseases, mould and other issues caused by dampness.
Cucumbers rely heavily on pollination to grow, so if you’re seeing a meagre crop it might be because you don’t have enough bees in your yard. Check out this great resource from The ABC on the best ways to attract more bees to your garde
5. Chillies
For those who like it hot, chillies are a great Spring crop to grow. Many species originate from the equatorial tropics, so they absolutely love the mixture of heat and moisture that comes with the Australian spring.
Like many other spring vegetables, Chillies need consistent soil temperatures of around 10-20 degrees celsius to grow well. Water every 2 or 3 days to ensure the soil is moist but not soggy, and use a stake to support the fragile branches and shallow root systems. Adding too much fertiliser to chillies will lead to more foliage and less fruit, so take it easy.
Placement is also important with chillies. Placing them too close to capsicums or other varieties of chillies can sometimes result in cross-pollination and lead to unpredictable levels of spice, so try not to plant a mild sweet pepper next to a real firebreather if you can avoid it. For most chillies, give them around 50cm of space.
Hot tip: Your matured chilli plants may appear to die over the winter, but don’t rip them out! These persistent plants have a habit of coming back strong in Spring and Summer when properly cared for. Prune back decisively and keep their pots free of weeds, pests and fungal infections for the best chances of a chilli comeback.
6. Beans
Beans are another warm-weather vegetable, with a preference for soil temperatures of at least 10 degrees Celsius. Most varieties of beans, including the green bean, can be sown in early Spring and harvested by mid Summer. They taste best when picked before they start to get lumpy.
Beans are a climbing plant that will need adequate air, light and space to avoid suffering fungal diseases. Stake your plants for support and space them at least 30cm apart for best results. They prefer rich & moist soil but dislike wet leaves and overwatering, so be sure to water regularly and deeply once or twice a week without spraying the foliage.
Good drainage and mulch will go a long way to caring for your beans, but regular fertilising is not necessary. This is because beans are capable of fixing their own nitrogen levels! For this reason, planting beans is a handy way to help repair and improve the soil in your garden bed.
7. Zucchini
As a vine-growing vegetable, Zucchini is another great plant to grow up a trellis or run along the ground. Their preferred conditions are similar to those of cucumbers; they like to be planted shallowly and spaced 30cm apart, and they enjoy 6-8 hours of full sun and a regular soil temperature of around 15 degrees Celcius.
Planting in Spring will give your plant time to establish itself before summer, giving it a better chance of enduring the hotter temperatures. Zucchinis are slow and take around 2 months to sprout, but they tend to deliver a massive crop when they do finally bloom.
Improving your soil with compost or manure around a week before planting can help get the conditions right for your Zucchini. Once planted, fertilise monthly until they begin to sprout, and then add liquid fertiliser frequently throughout the fruiting season. Dry soil can lead to bitter Zucchinis, so water daily at first and use mulch to help trap moisture in the ground.
Summary
To recap, we’ve put together a quick table that summarises some of the most important tips for each plant. As seasonal vegetables, many of these plants have similar needs – especially when it comes to sunlight and soil temperature.
Plants | Placement | Sunlight Levels | Watering | Soil Temperature | Supports Needed |
Tomatoes | 30-50cm apart | 6-8hrs Full Sun | Daily when young, less when mature | 15-20℃ | Stake |
Lettuce | 20cm apart | 6-8hrs Full Sun, can tolerate partial shade | Twice weekly | 10-20℃ | No |
Basil | 30cm apart, place near tomatoes | 6-8hrs Full Sun | Every 3 days | 10-20℃ | No |
Cucumbers | 30cm apart | 6-8hrs Full Sun | Deep water weekly, more on hot days | 10-20℃ | Trellis |
Chillies | 50cm apart, away from capsicums | 6-8hrs Full Sun | Every 2 or 3 days | 10-20℃ | No |
Beans | 30cm apart | 6-8hrs Full Sun | Deep water weekly, avoid foliage | At least 10℃ | Trellis or Stake |
Zucchini | 30cm apart | 6-8hrs Full Sun | Daily when young, more when mature | Around 15℃ | Trellis |
These are just some of the delicious vegetables that you can plant in Spring – there are plenty more veggies out there! Growing your own food is one of the most fulfilling ways to get engaged with gardening.
Don’t be afraid to ask our friendly team if you have any specific questions about growing your Spring vegetable garden. You can get your gardening journey started at one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres or our Online Garden Store.
It’s finally Spring! As professional gardeners, we spend a lot of our time working outside. We reckon that the mild, sunny days of Spring are a huge relief after a cold Melbourne winter!
Spring is also the best time of year for your plants. Weather conditions are just right for healthy new growth, and the natural cycle of pollination is in full swing. Whether you’re sowing some new seeds or transplanting a bare root plant into your soil, it’s the perfect time to get out the tools and start gardening.
Here’s everything you should be doing to prepare your garden for Spring this year:
1. Tidy up and remove any weeds
Before you do anything else, take some time to assess the situation in your garden. Most Winters can get pretty wet and muddy here in Australia. Plants and weeds alike tend to grow quickly with all of the rain, and it’s not easy to keep up with maintenance when the temperature and conditions outside are miserable.
So when that Spring sun comes around, clear out everything in your soil that you don’t want. This includes roots, weeds, fungi, dead leaves and plants that didn’t survive the winter. It’s good to start again with a clean slate, to help give any new plants you’re growing the best chance of success.
If you have a home composter or a favourite DIY mulch recipe, you might want to keep aside some of that useful organic matter to be used as mulch or compost. This includes grass clippings or those dead leaves, but be careful of any unwanted weed roots or seeds. Anything you don’t want to recycle can go straight into the green waste bin.
If you’re up for it, you can keep this gardening momentum going and go ‘all out’ with your Spring cleaning. Some gardeners like to take this time to sharpen their tools, repair fences and structures, clear out the gardening shed, mow the lawns and generally tidy up the place.
But after all of that weeding out in the sun, you may find you just want to put your feet up in the shade with an ice-cold drink instead! We know what we’ll be doing.
2. Prune back shrubs and trees
It’s also a good idea to prune plants that have grown a little wild over the winter, especially citrus trees and other edible plants that may start to ‘run’ instead of producing delicious food. This will give your plants the best conditions to thrive as they enter their growth period.
Pruning helps you grow your plant as desired and creates more efficient growth paths for your plant. Plant growth has a lot to do with hormone movement and nutrient allocation, and pruning can help you to control these variables. Cut back low branches or anything that looks spindly, tangled or unhappy. Branches with dead or browning leaves may also benefit from a prune.
If you’re feeling a little nervous, it’s good to remember that one wrong cut is probably not going to kill your plant! However, pruning too often or pruning the wrong way will do damage over time, so always research your plant to see exactly how it should be pruned.
With flowering plants, it’s important not to cut or damage buds as that could prevent further blooming. Some other plants are very sensitive to pruning or have certain important areas that should never be pruned, like the tips of palm trees.
3. Test your soil and prepare it for planting
If you’re anything like us, you’re probably starting to think about all of the strange and wonderful things you’re about to plant in your garden. But it’s a good idea to figure out exactly what kind of soil you’re working with first, to ensure you get the best results.
You should always test your soil before you plant something, but how comprehensively you decide to test it is up to you. At the very least, you should pick up some soil from your garden bed and crumble it between your fingers. This way you can see how loose or compacted your soil is, and get an idea of how well it’s going to drain.
If you’re planning on planting a lot of new plants, it might be a good idea to do some more comprehensive testing. You can purchase pH Testing Kits (as many plants prefer different acidity levels) or more detailed Soil Testing Kits at any of our Diaco’s Garden Centers. A soil test can identify nutrient levels, fertility, chemical makeup and more.
Nurturing a plant is a bit like a long-term investment – your attachment to it will grow the longer it continues to thrive. To minimise the chances of experiencing any disappointments, it’s always a good idea to know about the environment you’re working with right from the beginning.
4. Add Fertiliser, Compost and/or Mulch to Replenish Soil.
So you’ve tested your soil, and turns out it needs a little bit of TLC before you actually plant anything. Don’t be alarmed though! It’s very common and easily fixed with the right additives.
After a big winter, it’s pretty normal for soil to be a bit depleted. Nutrients can be flooded out by persistent rain, and regular avenues for drainage may have become clogged over time, leading to damp and soggy soil. Depending on the kind of soil reparation you’re looking for, the best way to improve it is usually to use some combination of fertiliser, compost or mulch.
These are all different methods of adding organic matter and nutrients into your soil for your plants to enjoy. For many plants, an annual dose of fertiliser at the beginning of Spring is all the help they need. It’s best to enrich your soil at least a week before planting, to give nutrients enough time to be absorbed.
Using mulch, fertiliser and compost all at once may actually be overkill for some plants, but you should really be using at least one or two of these methods semi-regularly for the best results.
Fertiliser
Fertiliser is any mix of natural or chemical substances that encourage plant growth. It’s considered ‘plant food’ and helps give them the nutrients they need. Poor soil may not have enough of these nutrients, so fertiliser is essential in these cases.
Fertiliser comes in many forms, but most fertilisers work by combining nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Bags of fertiliser are best for repairing or enriching large areas of soil, whilst liquid fertiliser or plant food is better for adding regularly to your plants during the fruiting season.
Compost
Compost is a mix of decomposing organic material that adds lots of nutrients to your soil as it continues to decompose. Worms and microorganisms eat compost and convert it into highly fertile soil. It can also help a lot with breaking up your soil and increasing drainage.
Mixing compost through your soil is one of the best ways to enrich and repair it. Compost can be created DIY with a bit of time and effort, but it’s also conveniently available in pre-formulated bags. You can find high-quality compost in our online plant store.
Mulch
Mulch is any organic (or inorganic) material that is placed on top of your soil. This is one of the main things that differentiate it from compost or fertiliser. Common mulch materials include Pea Straw, Sugarcane and Pine Bark, while inorganic mulches are usually pebbles or rocks. We’ve also put together our own Diacos Organic Mulch mix that gives great results.
Mulch will also benefit soil health as it decomposes, but it is perhaps most useful for water retention. Laying mulch around your plants and above your soil will delay evaporation and help your plant retain moisture for longer, leading to less frequent watering from you!
Start to plan ahead for the future:
Finally, it’s a good idea to write things down and prepare yourself for the year to come. Staying on top of your gardening in this way will make things much easier as time goes by, allowing you to pursue all of your ambitious and exciting garden ideas.
How organised you like to be is up to you, but there are two things that we always recommend:
- Make a calendar! We think this is one of the most useful things you can do! Keep track of the times of year you planted and when things are in bloom. Understanding the cycles of your garden is important, and recording them takes out the guesswork.
- Stock Up on Supplies. Now is a good time to use that gardening momentum. Use large plastic containers to stock up on rainwater for summer, and consider building up a stash of fertiliser, compost, mulch and weedkiller. It’s always good to prepare!
Combine this with all of the steps above, and you’re as ready as you’ll ever be for a wonderful spring of gardening in the sun. Your plants are sure to love the fertile, green environment you have created for them. Check out some of our other Spring guides below:
- Top 7 Vegetables to Plant in Spring
- Top 10 Plants to Plant this Season (Spring)
- Top 5 Tips to Prepare Your Lawn For Spring
Happy growing and good luck!
Don’t be afraid to ask our friendly team if you have any specific questions about preparing your garden beds for Spring. You can get your gardening journey started today at one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres or our Online Garden Store.
Hedges are one of the most popular plants to grow in Australia. They are hardy, elegant plants that suit a wide range of garden styles. They can create natural barriers within your garden design, and provide dappled light and privacy when used as screening plants.
There are a huge variety of plants that can be classified as hedges, so we’ve broken this guide up into two sections. First, we’ll talk about some general wisdom to follow when it comes to planting and caring for your hedges.
Afterwards, we’ll show you how to grow and care for 3 of the most popular types of hedging plants: Leighton’s Green, Syzygium Backyard Bliss and Ficus Flash.
Choosing hedges for your garden.
When choosing a hedge, the best place to start is to narrow down what you want, as there are many different varieties available. Here are the three most common reasons why our customers ask us for hedging plants:
Privacy. Hedges are known for their excellent privacy screening qualities. For perfect privacy, you want to look for a hardy plant that can grow dense foliage quickly. Popular privacy hedges include Photinia Robusta and Leighton Green.
Topiaries Other hedges are prized for their compact size and easy-to-style foliage. Topiary is the art of styling your hedges into defined shapes. These can be elegant and ornamental or totally surreal and fun! Japanese Box (Buxus) is popular.
Backdrops. Hedges can also make great backdrops for your garden beds. If you’re looking for a bold red colour to contrast with, try Acmena plants. Otherwise, there are a wide variety of beautiful flowering hedges, like Camellia Japonica.
It’s also worth being totally honest with yourself about how much time and effort you think you’ll be able to put into your hedge. If you’re an infrequent gardener or you have poor soil, choosing the more durable hedges can be a good idea. Australian native hedges and Cyprus are particularly tolerant of harsh conditions.
Planting a Hedge
Before planting your hedge, it’s good to prepare your soil. While most hedges can tolerate poor soil conditions, it’s important that they have good drainage. Creating a nutrient-rich environment will also give them the best chance of flourishing.
If your soil is poor, add your favourite fertiliser and some compost or manure, then work thoroughly through the top layer of your soil to ensure it isn’t too tightly packed. For best results, do this up to a week before planting your hedge to let the nutrients fully absorb into the soil and begin to repair it.
The size of the hole you need to dig will depend on different hedge species, the maturity of your plant, and their root systems. For your average hedge, dig to a depth of around 30cm. If your plant still seems too young and small for this, then dig it to the same depth as the pot it came in.
Spacing your Hedges
Spacing is an important factor when growing hedges, as it will affect both the density and the height of the foliage. In most cases, it is recommended that you follow a 3:1 ratio when spacing. Figure out your desired height and then space them at ⅓ of that. So for a hedge height of 1.5 metres, you’d want to space plants around 50cm apart.
It’s also a good idea to research the specific plant you are buying, as different plants may have slightly different requirements. In general, planting closer will give you a thicker hedge in much less time. If you’re growing a low dense hedge as an edging plant or topiary, this is a good strategy.
However, privacy hedges or screening plants may not reach their desired height when planted too closely together. The roots will start to compete for nutrients and space, and foliage may become tangled and dense, leading to poor results.
If you’re aiming for a tall hedge and you have a bit of patience, you can try planting further away to give your plants room to achieve their maximum height. The exact measurements will depend on the type of plant you are growing, but you can apply this way of thinking when spacing most popular hedge varieties.
Pruning and Training Hedges
Trimming is one of the most important things that you can do for your hedge Proper pruning technique is essential when you are first establishing and training your hedging plant.
Hedges will require regular maintenance to keep healthy and grow their foliage in the desired shape. For the best results, here are our top tips for pruning your hedges:
- Leave the sides at first. For newly established hedges, it’s good to start training them early. Keep the tops cut back below your desired level at first, to promote more growth around the sides, resulting in a thicker and healthier hedge. Let it grow upwards only once it has thickened out more.
- Trim in a wedge shape. You need to focus on more than just the outside foliage of your plant to grow a successful hedge. Taper hedges slightly so that they are thinner on top and thicker below. It will help sunlight reach all of the leaves more evenly, from the top to the bottom.
- Don’t prune flower buds. For flowering shrubs, you need to mind the buds during their flowering season – usually around Spring. You need to prune before the buds form or wait for flowering to stop, otherwise, you may damage their ability to bloom. You should only prune 3-4 times a year, so keep this in mind when planning a cutback.
- Prune low branches. It’s good to prune back decisively on thick, low-hanging branches below your desired foliage level. This will promote thicker foliage growth by redirecting more energy and proteins to the part of the hedge you are growing.
- Prune dead branches. If you notice dead branches inside your hedge, cut them back and remove them. This will allow more light to filter through your plant and make room for healthy new growth, to replace dead or dying sections.
- Detailing the top and edges. Hard edges are visually appealing on a hedge plant. You can use string or wire to help plan out straight edges in advance. Always trim the top of your hedge last to minimise harm. You should consider investing in some topiary shears if you decide to craft a particularly complex topiary shape.
- Fertilise afterwards. Pruning can be a bit of a stressful experience for your plants, so it’s a good idea to add some extra nutrients into the soil to help your plant recover. Hedges that are still being established can often be a bit sensitive, so use something gentle like organic compost or a slow-release fertiliser.
Following these 7 tips will help you to grow a healthier, happier hedge. However, there is no perfect strategy for every single plant, so remember to always research the specific plant that you are bringing home. You can always ask us for more specific gardening advice.
How to Grow 3 Popular Hedging Plants:
These 3 hedges are some of the most popularly used in Australian gardens. They’re relatively easy to grow and provide great results as natural boundaries or privacy screens.
Each of these popular hedge breeds originates from a broader family of plants, many of which also make excellent hedging plants. Alongside some care tips, we’ll also talk a little bit about other common varieties from these different hedge types.
Leightons Green (Cyprus)
Plants from the Cyprus family make for great hedges, and Leighton Green (Cupressocyparis Leylandii) is perhaps the most popular variety. You’ll see this hedging plant in gardens all over Melbourne, particularly in the leafy eastern suburbs.
Cyprus trees and shrubs are sought out as ideal hedges because of their super-fast growth, thick evergreen foliage and subtly deep colour tones. They are coniferous and low maintenance, with their height and hardiness making them popular as windbreaks.
Other popular Cyprus varieties for hedging include Lemon Aroma, Castlewellan Gold, Glabra Arctic and the Glauca Pencil Pine.
Caring for Leighton Green: These are very hardy trees that will survive frost and strong winds better than the other hedge varieties on this list – they’ll even withstand a harsh coastal wind! Position in full sun or partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil. Leighton Green will tolerate long periods of drought but performs best when watered regularly.
This fast-growing plant is tall and wide, so you will want to space them at least 2m apart for a high-growing hedge. It can grow up to 3m in the first 18 months! To grow a row of full-sized trees (like on a rural property) you may want to space at least 5m apart. Mulch well and fertilise with a slow-release fertiliser every few months. Prune hard as needed.
Backyard Bliss (Syzygium)
A popular new variety of Lilly Pilly, Backyard Bliss is resistant to the psyllid pests that plague other Lilly Pilly plants. This fast-growing Australian Native has beautiful white flowers and tasty purple berries. When planted alongside a path, this plant can add a whimsical fairytale feel to your garden. It’s also a dense and drought-hardy plant that is very easy to grow, making it ideal for hedging.
Similar plants to Backyard Bliss include Lilly Pilly, Sublime, Cherry Surprise, Forest Flame and Little Ruby. These are all Acmena hedges, renowned for their robust hardiness and the strong colouring of their leaves, which can change dramatically throughout the seasons.
Caring for Backyard Bliss: As a tough Australian native, Backyard Bliss should survive in most soils (including sandy soils) provided there is some good drainage. It will do best in fertile loamy soil. This plant will struggle if it is sitting in soggy soil, so water semi-regularly during Winter and be careful not to overdo it. However, it will require more moisture and regular watering in the warmer Summer months. Fertilise annually with a slow-release fertiliser.
Plant in full sun or part shade position, preferably somewhere sheltered from harsh winds and frosts. Place between 50cm and 1m apart for hedging, depending on the desired height. Fertilise annually and mulch well. This plant can tolerate lots of pruning so don’t be afraid to go hard if necessary! The best time to prune is in late winter, before new growth begins.
Ficus Flash (Ficus)
Ficus trees – or Fig Trees – are a diverse species of plant native to tropical and temperate regions. Ficus Flash is one of the most popular plants available for hedging and they thrive in our climate. Flash is a newer and native variety of Ficus Hilli, with a much less invasive root system. It can be planted in bulk as a hedge or grown well in a container or pot.
Known for its stunning glossy green foliage, compact leaves and quick vertical growth, this plant is also very low-maintenance and highly tolerant of poor conditions. Other popular Ficus hedges include the Ficus Benjamina or Weeping Fig.
Caring for a Ficus Flash: This hardy plant will grow in almost any soil, including clay or sandy soils, but it prefers moist loamy soil with good drainage. Place in a partly shaded position as the leaves may burn in full sun. This plant is not tolerant of frost and will also survive well as an indoor plant. Water regularly, although Ficus is very tolerant of dry spells.
Ficus trees in general are known for having very aggressive root systems, and while the Flash is an improvement on other varieties, you should still take care when placing these near other plants. Ficus can be comfortably kept at around 3m high and 1.5m wide, but if left to grow it can reach 10m in height! For best results, prune back hard in late Winter and add a slow-release fertilise in early Spring. Shape regularly as needed.
Get started today on growing your hedge today at one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres or our Online Garden Store.
Don’t be afraid to ask our friendly team if you have any specific questions about hedging, especially if you are planning any large-scale landscaping. We are more than happy to offer our extensive expertise and provide quotes on bulk orders and delivery.
June and July means that it’s bare root tree Season here in Australia, and it’s one of our favourite times of the year at Diacos. But what exactly is a bare rooted tree? If you’ve only just heard the term, or you’re just looking to do a little more research before buying or planting, then look no further. Our gardening experts have put together this comprehensive guide to bare root trees.
We’ll talk about what a bare root tree is, how to plant and care for it, and some of the most popular bare root trees available. If you’re in a hurry – or you only want to know about planting information – you can check out our shorter quick guide, Grow and Care for Bare Root Trees.
What is a Bare Root Tree?
Bare root trees are ready-grown trees that have been uprooted from the ground where they were grown. Their root system remains fully intact even though it has been removed from the soil. These ‘bare’ roots are where these trees get their name.
So why don’t the bare roots suffer? Well, bare rooting can only be done with deciduous trees & shrubs while they are dormant. In Australia, this is usually during the months of June, July and sometimes early August.
Dormancy for plants is like a form of hibernation – they are conserving energy and nutrients to better survive the harsh conditions of winter. Fortunately, this also means they can be removed from one soil and placed into another without going into shock and distress.
Most bare root trees are around 2-3 years old when removed, meaning that you won’t have to wait very long to start seeing results! In fact, there are a number of benefits to choosing a bare root tree over one that comes in a pot or container.
Why choose a Bare Rooted Tree?
The most immediate benefit to choosing a bare rooted tree is that it’s usually a lot cheaper than a tree that comes in a container. According to the ABC, by choosing a bare root tree instead of a potted tree, you can generally save up to 50%!
If you have a long list of trees you’d love to buy, waiting until Winter for bare root tree season is not a bad idea. The best thing is that these trees aren’t just cheaper, they tend to grow better as well. This is because they have a much better chance of adapting to their new soil and location.
While the tree’s root system is dormant, it will adapt to being planted in new soil without much fuss, whereas a potted plant may struggle or go into shock when removed from its pot. The fast adaption time of bare roots tends to lead to faster plant growth and healthier results.
Bare root trees also arrive much more established in their growth than container trees, to better ensure the root systems can withstand being uprooted and replanted. As mentioned earlier, most bare roots will be at least 2 or 3 years old, and with a sturdy amount of roots already grown. This can save you a lot of time waiting for your tree to grow!
How to Plant Bare Root Trees
Preparation is the secret to planting your bare root and enjoying those easy results. It’s always a good idea to have everything prepared for your bare root tree before you bring it home. This gives your tree the best chance of survival.
If you do need to store your tree before planting, then it’s essential to keep the roots moist. Otherwise, they could be damaged, or could even dry out and kill your new tree.
To safely store your bare root tree, place it in a bag with wet sawdust or bury it in a shallow, moist hole. This is okay for up to a week, but the longer you leave it, the higher the risk of damaging your roots. If you’re only storing your tree for a day or less, you can place it in a bucket of water instead.
Preparing to plant
You want the best possible soil ready to go for your bare-rooted tree. Do some research first to find out what kind of soil your tree likes, or ask one of our friendly experts if you’re purchasing from our store. To better prepare your soil, add some compost & manure and mix it together with soil and water.
Now it’s time to dig the hole! Generally, you’re going to want a hole that is deeper than it is wide. Depending on your soil, we recommend digging roughly twice as wide as the root ball of your tree. Another rule of thumb is to go 10-20cm larger than if you were choosing a pot.
If you have poorer soil, you may need to go as large as 1 metre wide with your hole! Finally, make a small mound in the centre of the hole. This is where you’re going to place the roots, so make sure that this mound will allow the base of your tree to sit level with the ground..
Planting your Bare Root Tree
The idea is to bury the tree to the same height that it was at before it was uprooted – you should be able to see a colour change at the base of the tree where it once came out of the soil. That marks where the base of your tree should be above ground.
Place the roots on top of your soil mound in the middle of the hole, so that the base is at the desired height. Then, spread the roots over the mound evenly. Gently begin to fill in your hole, wiggling the tree slightly as you go to ensure the roots make good contact with the soil.
Finally, water the tree generously to give it a good start. If the tree is in an exposed area, you may need to stake the tree to protect it from harsh winds.
How to Care for Bare Root Trees
After you’ve planted your bare root tree, it’s still going to need a little bit of care to settle in properly. Because your bare root has been planted while dormant, it’s going to look like a bare, barren stick for a month or so before it begins to bloom and grow again.
Here’s what to keep in mind when caring for your new bare root tree:
Water and Mulch
During this period, your bare root tree will need a bit of extra care. Water your bare root more often for the first couple of weeks to ensure that the soil is consistently moist. Every 2nd or 3rd day is generally a good rule of thumb, though some species of tree may differ.
It’s important not to overdo this constant watering, as your root system will drown if it is completely soaked for a long period. Check your soil frequently to make sure that the water is draining away. You want it to be moist, but not waterlogged. Persistent puddles or mud is a bad sign.
On the other hand, if you’re struggling to keep your soil moist or think that you won’t be home enough to water regularly, Mulching around your tree can be an excellent solution. Mulch helps soil retain moisture for longer, reducing the need to water as frequently.
It can take around 2-4 weeks for the roots of your tree to become active again. Once they do, it’s time to reduce your watering to around once a week. Heavier, less frequent waterings will encourage a deeper, healthier root system.
Pruning
Pruning is an essential step to the success of your bare-rooted tree. When a tree is removed from the field, it loses a significant portion of its root system.
If you don’t prune it back, the tree will have an unbalanced root-to-tree ratio, which will cause serious problems. Depending on the tree, you will need to prune significantly so that the tree can establish itself more quickly.
This step is one of the most important parts of planting a bare root tree – don’t skip it!
Popular Bare Root Trees
There are more bare root trees in the world than we could possibly count. The availability of some bare root trees can also change from year to year. Still, there are some classic choices that you’ll tend to find every year. Here are 6 of the most popular bare root trees out there:
1. Fruit Trees
Fruit Trees are far and away the most popular bare root trees we sell, as purchasing your fruit trees in bare root form considerably cuts down on the amount of time that you need to wait before you can start to eat their delicious fruits!
There’s a huge variety of fruit trees that will thrive as bare root trees, including pear trees, plum trees, apple trees, lemon trees, fig-trees, cherry trees and even almond trees. Chat to our friendly team about what we’ve got in stock this year.
2. Maple Trees
Maple trees, including the stunning Japanese Maple, are some of the most splendid bare root trees available. They come in all kinds of visually striking colours, including purple, red, deep green and orange.
Planting your bare root tree while dormant does mean that you’ll be looking at a naked stick at first, but have a little patience and you’ll be rewarded with one of the most beautiful trees in the world. This is a striking way to add colour to any garden.
Japanese Maple trees aren’t always cheap to purchase as a potted plant, so buying during bare root season can often save you a lot of money.
3. Ginkgo Trees (Maidenhair)
This graceful, slow-growing tree is the oldest surviving tree on earth. It’s had a long time to get comfortable, so the Ginkgo tends to be very easygoing in most soils and conditions. It’s a great choice if you’re intimidated by some of the fussier trees on the list.
The huge, fan-shaped leaves of the ginkgo are beautiful and vibrantly green, transforming into a wonderful golden hue in Autumn. Going bare-root means that you can start to enjoy this pleasant, shady foliage even faster.
If you like the idea of planting a tree that will keep growing up as you grow old, then you’ll be impressed by the Ginkgo tree. It only grows by around 30cm a year, but it can reach up to 50-80 feet in height and 30-40 feet in diameter!
4. Silver Birch Trees
With their striking white trunks and elegant green foliage, birch trees are a classic. These are very popular for suburban gardeners, and the gently drooping branches of the silver birch certainly make for a lovely garden tree.
If birch trees are on your list, don’t go for a potted version. Potted birches will always turn out much smaller than a bare-root or soil-grown birch. That’s because these trees have impressive root structures that spread outwards as they mature, which a pot severely limits.
Because of this, birch trees require a medium-to-large backyard and a bit of space from other plants. However, a few birch trees placed close together can look absolutely stunning.
5. Claret Ash (Fraxinus)
Finally, the Claret Ash is another fantastic choice for a Bare Root Tree. These trees are famous for their beautiful red-to-purple foliage in autumn, for which they are aptly named. Tall, shady and graceful, this tree is a classic.
These deciduous trees love the full sun and grow extremely fast. Claret Ashes can grow upwards of a metre a year! This makes them a great choice for suburban or country gardeners, although like the Silver Birch, their extensive root system may not be well-suited to a smaller area.
Although fully grown Claret Ashes are tough and drought tolerant, they can be fairly sensitive in the first few years of their lives. Planting these trees bare root style means that you can skip most of this awkward phase. It will also give them a better chance of adapting to your soil than if you transferred the tree from a pot.
This has been our guide to bare root trees. Now you can see why bare root season gets us so excited here at Diacos! Waiting for the bare root versions of your favourite tree can save you a lot of time and money, and you’ll often end up with a larger, healthier tree.
Come into one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres during June and July to explore our extensive range of bare root trees. If you’re reading this guide outside of bare root season, feel free to ask one of our helpful gardening experts online about what you can expect to find when it comes around.
We love gardens here at Diacos, and we want to share that love. So we thought we’d ask our helpful team of gardeners for 9 of their favourite gardening facts to share with you.
You’ll find plenty of in-depth gardening guides all through our Gardening Advice section, so we’ve tried not to get too technical with these ones. Instead, we’ve focused on what makes gardens so great.
You’ll still find plenty of helpful little gardening tips in here though, so read on for more!
1. Anyone can garden! It doesn’t have to be intimidating.
Many people are intimidated by the idea of gardening, either because they think it will be too much work, or because they’ve killed off a few plants in the past! Yet those particular plants may have been fussy, hard to care for, or simply not a good fit for their environment.
Many plants are sturdy and low-maintenance, so it’s always worth trying again with a plant or garden that’s better suited to your lifestyle. Your garden doesn’t have to be large and unmanageable either. Remember – you’re the one in charge. Work within your comfort zone and work with what you’ve got, and you’ll find a beautiful garden springing up in no time.
Even large gardens can be made more manageable. Try working on small sections one at a time, and laying plastic or tarp over sections you haven’t gotten to yet to prevent them from running wild in the meantime. Plants tend to need less care once they reach a healthy stage of growth, so working on your garden in bite-sized chunks can end up being a lot easier!
Want some more garden inspiration? Check out our article on Ways to Make Your Garden Look Amazing.
2. Gardens are super good for your health
People have been tending to gardens for thousands of years. Part of the reason that we’ve been at it so long is that gardening is just so, so good for us.
Studies have proved time and time again the benefits of gardening, and of spending time around plants and nature in general. And you don’t have to grow a personal jungle before you feel the effects -just getting your hands into the dirt makes a difference!
Scientists have found that contact with the microorganisms in soil has a positive effect on human gut health. Furthermore, being around plants has been shown to calm the mind, reduce stress and aid concentration. And that’s not even mentioning all the exercise you get! We’ve written even more about the 7 Health Benefits of Gardening here on our blog.
We really love plant science here at Diacos – our knowledgeable staff could go on for hours if you let them! But there’s something decidedly unscientific about our love for plants, too. At the end of the day, the joy that comes from caring for a garden and watching it grow is just good for the soul. It’s as simple as that.
3. A garden can increase your property value. Yes, really.
Everyone has different motivators in life. If all this talk of good feelings and health benefits has you rolling your eyes and hovering over the ‘back’ button, bear with us – especially if you’re a homeowner.
Growing a garden can net you some serious real-world financial benefits. Studies have shown that growing a well-cared-for outdoor garden on your property can add up to 16% in value – that’s a lot of zeroes for some flowers and trees!
People really treasure gardens. They’re a special space for us to relax and connect with nature. So it’s not surprising that this translates into real-world value for homeowners. Just one more reason to consider starting a garden!
4. Gardens will attract little friends to help the ecosystem.
Cold, hard real estate cash isn’t the only thing that your new garden will be attracting. Gardens also help the natural ecosystem, attracting plenty of little friends that help our natural environment stay healthy and flourish.
Don’t worry, we don’t mean pests like rats and spiders. Instead, most gardens will attract a much more pleasant crowd, like bees, butterflies and native birds. Pollinators like bees are particularly vital to garden ecosystems.
These fuzzy little guys help all the plants on earth reproduce, and their populations have been struggling lately. Do your part for the environment by planting some pollen-producing flowers and making your garden a great place for bees to be.
5. Gardens are a great way to use your compost waste.
Food waste is a part of many households, and many of us simply throw it in the trash with everything else. But this organic matter – veggie scraps, egg shells, fruit peels etc. – can provide excellent nutrients for your plants.
Keep a compost bin in your kitchen to collect your organic scraps, and your garden is sure to love you for it. You can invest in a composter if you like, but it’s not actually necessary.
Simply bury your scraps, coffee grounds and eggshells a few inches below the surface in the area of your choice, and their nutrients will begin to feed your soil and plants as the compost decomposes. That’s all there is to it, and it’s much better than throwing these scraps into landfills.
Got more garden space than food waste? Don’t worry. You can purchase bags of premium garden compost here at Diacos.
6. Veggie Gardens can change your life for the better.
We know we’ve already talked about the many benefits of gardening, but we wanted to zero in a little more on the joys of the humble veggie garden. Veggie gardens have one big draw compared to every other type of garden, and you already know what it is: Delicious food!
It’s hard to understate the difference that growing your own food can make to your life. It will remake your understanding of food and cooking, and eventually save you some serious money on your grocery bills. Being self-sustainable, even in a small way, is immensely rewarding.
We recommend that most people start small, and just plant one or two seasonal veggies that you love to eat. If you find you’re enjoying it – then plant more, and more again! You may find that you have a self-sustainable food supply before you know it.
Check out our Guide to Growing a Veggie Garden for more!
7. Growing a garden will reduce your carbon footprint.
We’ve already talked a lot about how gardens can change your life. But they’re also helping change the life of everybody on earth, by helping to turn back the clock on global warming.
Our warming climate is caused by carbon dioxide becoming trapped in our atmosphere. But as part of their photosynthesis process, plants remove carbon dioxide from the air and turn it into nutrients to feed their growth. You may already know this – it’s partly why tree-planting and re-foresting efforts have become so popular.
This means that every tree, shrub, grass or flower that you plant in your garden helps make the planet a better place for the future. If you really want to minimise your carbon footprint as much as possible, take some inspiration from the above tips – composting and growing your own food.
Studies have shown that these two gardening activities make the biggest difference to our carbon footprint, by completely eliminating the heavy emissions that are produced by transporting fresh vegetables to the supermarket and taking your food waste to landfills.
8. Keep a garden notebook. It’ll help a lot!
Whether you’re new to gardening or a well-practised pro, we think that one of the best things you could ever do for your garden is to keep a garden notebook.
As we’re fond of saying, learning to garden is all about natural trial and error. It takes time to learn the specific needs of your plants and respond to them. Keeping track of changes and plant responses in your notebook can make this whole process a lot clearer and easy to manage
You can also use your notebook to plan out your garden layout, and to make sure all of your plants will be okay if you’re making a change. Gardening is all about working with your garden, not against it, and keeping a notebook is one of the most helpful tools you have for doing so.
9. Weeds are a fact of life. But prevention is the best solution.
Every gardener has to deal with weeds. They’re a persistent nuisance, with some weeds posing more of a threat than others. Mention ‘Mother of Millions’ or ‘Pattersons Curse’ around a farmer or experienced gardener and you’ll likely cop a long, bitter earful!
But weeds can be dealt with, and like most things in life, prevention is the best cure. Mulching with cardboard, newspaper or old carpet fabric is a popular way of choking out weeds before they grow. Cutting off the heads of certain weeds before they can spread their seeds – or ‘deadheading’ them – is another solid way to severely limit their spread.
Sooner or later, though, a weed will get through. You can use Weed Killer, though you should check how this may affect different parts of your garden ecosystem first. Pouring boiling water on weeds is another foolproof, natural way to kill the pesky things. Weeds can be a pain, but with the right attitude and a good strategy, they’re totally manageable.
Gardens are an incredibly fulfilling space to care for and spend time in. And they’re good for the planet, too. We’re passionate gardeners here at Diacos, and we want to spread the good word about gardening far and wide.
These have been the top 9 things we think everyone should know about gardens. Hopefully, it can inspire you to get out in your own garden and have a go! Check out our online garden store to start growing today.
Growing a beautiful garden takes a little bit of hard work and plenty of love and care.
Yet there are three things that are easily the most important factors if you want your garden to do well, and you probably already know what they are. Water, Soil and Sunshine, the three most basic needs of every single plant on earth.
If you can master these basics, you’ll become a wise gardening pro in no time at all. We’ll talk a bit about how these 3 basic needs interact for plants, and the best combinations for some of the most popular plant types out there.
Then we’ll go through each one of these basics – watering, soil and sunlight – in a bit more detail, and include some links to our other guides on these topics. Get those green thumbs ready – let’s get into it!
Finding the perfect balance
Water, soil and sunlight might seem like independent needs for a plant. Yet these three forces all interact to provide nutrients for the plant via photosynthesis. That’s why it’s so important to try and strike the right balance between the three.
For instance, a plant that needs a lot of watering usually requires fast-draining soil as well, so that it doesn’t become waterlogged and drown. Similarly, a full-shade plant might need to be watered less frequently, as the water won’t evaporate as fast. Conversely, a full sun plant will dry out more quickly and may need more nutritious soil and regular watering.
Understanding these relationships and striking that balance is crucial to the success of your garden. When you’re choosing your next plant, take some extra time to think about whether your garden can really support the right combination of water, soil and sunlight for that particular species. If not, consider some changes (i.e. new soil) that you may need to make.
Thankfully, plants are pretty good at letting us know when things aren’t perfect. Wilting leaves, discolouration or a thin & stretching appearance are all signs that at least one need isn’t being met properly. If your plant is green and robust with strong growth, you’ll know that you’ve found the right balance.
Water, soil and sunlight for different plant varieties.
Finding that perfect balance for your garden might seem like one of those things that’s easier said than done. Yet it can start to feel simpler once you do some research into the different kinds of plants or gardens that you want. Grouping plants with similar needs together is another way to make this whole process a lot easier.
To get you started, we’ve included the best sun/water/soil combinations for some of the most popular plant varieties and garden styles. Check them out below:
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1. Succulents
Succulents can be kept indoors or outdoors and love the sun. They enjoy up to 6hrs of bright, indirect sunlight a day. If grown outdoors, succulents will still need a bit of shelter from the hot afternoon sun, especially in summer. Consider this when placing your succulents.
Water your succulents around once a fortnight, and as little as once a month during winter. Always check the soil is fully dry before watering again. These plants have shallow roots and enjoy loose, nutrient-rich soil that is sandy or rocky and drains quickly.
2. Box Hedges
Box or ‘Buxus’ plants are a hardy group of hedges that can survive in many different environments. They prefer full sun and sandy or rich composted soil, with plenty of humus and a pH level of around 6.5 – 7.5. (Meaning ‘Neutral’ or ‘Alkaline’ Soil is fine)
A Box Hedge will need one to two deep waterings a week at first, though it will gradually need less watering as it matures. It’s worth noting that many Buxus plants are tough, and have been known to grow even in full shade, drought conditions and a hard clay soil!
3. Australian Natives
Australian Native Gardens are a great choice as they can withstand harsh conditions. Many native plants can flourish in sandy or clay soils that are otherwise weak and nutrient-poor. They can also endure periods without water and handle harsh full sun with little trouble.
Keep in mind, however, that Australia is a big country with many different climates. For instance, plants from the Australian rainforest will need full or partial shade, richly composted soil and plenty of moisture. You can read more about Australian Native Gardens on our blog.
4. Vegetable Gardens
Veggie Gardens are another popular garden type with a lot of variations between plants, but there are still some good guidelines that apply to most veggies. Rich, composted soil with lots of organic matter is important, as is plenty of regular watering and good drainage.
Different veggies will have different sunlight requirements. Root vegetables prefer a partial sun environment, whereas fruit-producing vegetables like tomato and cucumber love full sunlight. Check out our seasonal guides – like Winter Veggies or Autumn Veggies – for more.
5. Grasses and Strappy Plants
Grasses and Strappy Plants are the unsung heroes of gardens. These hardy little plants fill difficult spaces and add texture. Most ornamental grasses tend to prefer full sun and slightly moist soil with free-flowing drainage. However, they will tend to survive in most conditions.
Unlike lawn grasses, ornamental grasses and strappy plants are drought-hardy and don’t require too much water. In fact, they’re a great low-maintenance plant. One thing to remember is that they do best with a little bit of space, so don’t crowd them too much!
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Plants are unique little things, so each of these categories may contain a couple of plants with needs that differ from those above. Generally, however, these guidelines are great rules of thumb to follow for the above plant varieties.
If you’re interested in learning more, keep reading as we go more in-depth on what you should know about watering, soil and sunlight for your new garden.
A Guide to Watering your Garden
Water is life for plants. Like humans, plants are made up almost entirely of water. It’s what fills their cell structures and gives plants their unique, vibrant shapes. Without water, these cells will start to sag and die – leaving you with a very sad-looking plant.
Luckily, it’s easy to tell when your garden needs a drink. A thirsty plant will look droopy and may start to brown or curl at the edges. The catch is that this may also be due to overwatering, which is unfortunately a very common issue.
Every plant in your garden is going to have different watering needs, and a little trial and error is totally normal and to be expected. But still, knowing a bit more about the basics of watering your garden will help you avoid some of the most common pitfalls.
Always check the soil moisture first
This is the easiest and most foolproof way to see whether it’s time to water your garden. In fact, you’ll find this simple piece of advice all through our website – it’s basically the golden rule of gardening.
Simply stick your fingers a few centimetres in the soil, or take some between your fingers and squeeze it to see if it sticks to you. Ideally, the soil should be slightly moist. If it’s soaking wet and you haven’t watered recently, you may be overwatering or have a drainage issue.
If the soil is crumbly and dry, then that means it’s time to water your plants. One thing to remember is that the type of soil you’re using (i.e. clay) can also make a difference – we’ll talk more about this when we talk about choosing a garden soil.
Morning is the best time of day to water your garden
Generally, the morning is always the best time to water your plants. There are a number of advantages to this. Firstly, it will give the plants more time to absorb the water and convert it into energy as the sun heats up and kick-starts the photosynthesis process.
Watering earlier in the day will also give water in the soil more time to naturally evaporate, as soil that is watered in the evening can retain a lot of moisture on a cold night. This is especially important to consider for garden beds that don’t have a lot of drainage.
Seasonal watering – watch out for the weather!
Watering your garden won’t be the same all year round. Many plants – like the Fiddle Leaf Fig – prefer to be watered less frequently in winter as they ‘rest’ and use less energy. Water also takes longer to evaporate in these colder temperatures. The reverse is true for summer, and your plants may need more water to keep up with drying out in the heat.
Keep the rain in mind too, especially for gardens that are completely out in the open. This is the natural way for plants to drink and, most of the time, it will be more than enough hydration for them. The weather forecast always gets the last word when it comes to your watering schedule.
Some other quick tips for watering your garden.
There are a couple of other little things that are great to keep in mind. One is to always water the base of your plants, not the leaves. Surface-level watering can cause shallow, weak roots. The deeper the water gets into the soil, the healthier your root system is going to be.
Also, watch out for the salinity of your tap water. Softened water (like the kind we get in Melbourne & Victoria) is treated with sodium, which can build up in your soil. You can flush this out occasionally with a heavy watering, sometimes called a ‘Leaching’.
Finally, consider the best way to water. A hose or a watering can is a simple solution, but you might start thinking about sprinklers and irrigation as your garden starts to grow! It’s worth it to play around and find out what works – but you can always ask one of our garden experts for help if you need!
If you want some more information, you can check out our other watering guides:
A Guide to Gardening Soil.
Soil is another crucial ingredient to a successful garden, but it doesn’t always get the same amount of attention that water and sunlight do. There’s a reason that there are so many different types of potting soil out there – plants won’t make it just anywhere.
This is because the plants in our gardens tend to come from all over the world. It figures that they all have slightly different ideas about what makes for a comfortable home. Some plants prefer rich and moist soil, while others may prefer dry, gritty sand.
It pays to do a bit of research first, as not all plants will live side by side in the same soil. But don’t fret – choosing the right soil is easy once you understand the basics.
The three types of soil
There are roughly 3 basic types of soil available. Some may tell you there are as many as 9 or 10, depending on how technical you want to get! However, understanding these 3 is usually good enough to get started.
- Sandy Soil is loose, gritty and will fall apart in your hand. It drains very fast.
- Clay Soil is tightly packed and firm. It holds water easily and doesn’t drain well.
- Rich Composted Soil is nutrient-rich and contains organic matter (i.e. compost). It’s loamy and drains just right. It combines the qualities of these 3 soils and should crumble gently in your hand when touched.
Most garden plants prefer a rich composted soil, though plants from different environments may have different tastes. Soil composition (i.e. what’s in your dirt) can vary a lot in quite a small area, so it’s impossible to know exactly what you have in your suburban backyard until you check.
For this reason, it’s usually wise to enrich the soil in your garden beds with a formulated potting mix that suits your plants, at least to the depth at which you will plant your garden. This is what most gardeners do – you can browse our range of potting mixes here.
Soil Acidity
Soil Acidity isn’t important to every plant, but for some, it is absolutely essential. The acidity of soil affects the availability of the nutrients that your plants need. Plants that love acidic soil may suffer nutrient deficiencies if they are placed in alkaline or neutral soil.
Soil acidity is measured on a pH scale. One thing to remember about this scale is that it counts backwards. A pH of 7 is neutral, and anything above 7pH is considered Alkaline. Soil with a pH of 6 or less is acidic. The lower the number, the more acidic the soil.
Soil acidity is some scientifically technical stuff, and there are no quick fixes to change your soil pH to make it more or less acidic, though you can achieve it over time. If you’re interested, you can read more about Soil Acidity here.
Soil Drainage
Finally, you want to make sure your soil drains well. If your soil is retaining too much moisture, your plants may end up drowning. Try to choose soil that lets water pass through it easily to prevent this from happening.
Soils with lots of clay in the composition may clump together and struggle with draining. You can improve the drainage of your soil by adding plenty of organic matter, like compost, manure, mulch or shredded plant matter.
A Guide to Sunlight for Gardens
Finally, sunlight is another essential, basic need for your garden. It’s the key ingredient in photosynthesis, the process that plants use to convert sunlight into energy.
Plants are very clever little things, and his incredible scientific process is how plants sustain their constant growth. You can read about photosynthesis in more detail in one of our other guides to sunlight – Sunlight: How much do plants need?
Unlike with soil and water, you don’t have much control over the sun in the sky. Instead, you need to be smart about where you decide to place your garden (or gardens!).
However, having a bit more knowledge and understanding about sunlight will make these decisions feel much less daunting. Let’s get into it in a bit more detail:
The different kinds of sunlight for gardens.
When it comes to gardens, there are three types of sunlight out there. Different types of plants will have different sunlight preferences, depending on the climate of the natural environment that they originally come from.
You’ll find that all of the plants in our online garden store, and in garden stores everywhere, are organised into these three categories. This makes it much easier to group your plants and plan where they’ll go in order to get their preferred amount of sunlight.
1. Full Sunlight
Full sun is the kind of sun you get in the middle of the day and the afternoon, when the sunlight is as hot and bright as it’s going to get. Generally, plants that love full sun are more heat and drought-resistant, which makes them well suited to the harsh extremes of Australian summers.
For those living in Melbourne and Geelong, where our garden stores are located, we recommend giving your full sunlight plants around 6-8 hours a day. Outdoor garden plants that love full sun include Ficus flash, Magnolia, Citrus and Fruit trees and Succulents.
2. Partial Sun & Shade
Many garden plants prefer a mix of both sun and shade. The hot afternoon sun will generally be too extreme for plants that prefer these temperate conditions. On the other hand, the full shade will not give them enough sunlight to thrive.
Instead, a few hours of the cooler morning sun is perfect for these kinds of gardens. We recommend placing sun & shade gardens so that they are facing the morning sun or receiving indirect light, but are firmly shaded in the afternoons.
You’ll find many plants enjoy this kind of mixed or indirect sunlight. Popular partial sun & shade plants include Azaleas, Japanese Maples, Camellias, Gardenias and Birds of Paradise.
3. Full Shade.
You might be surprised to hear that while all plants need at least a little bit of sunlight to photosynthesise, not all plants love sunlight. In fact, some absolutely need full shade. These plants have usually evolved underneath dense tree canopies where direct sunlight is hard to come by.
A lot of rainforest plants and ferns fall into this category, and they tend to make very popular indoor plants. When it comes to outdoor gardens, place full shade plants under a verandah or a front porch to protect them from direct sunlight. If you’re lucky enough to have a dense tree canopy in your yard, that’s a great spot too!
Popular Full Shade plants for your garden include Daphne, Cut Tree Ferns, Helleborus, Acanthus Mollis (Oyster Plant) and Hydrangeas.
How to tell if your garden is getting the right amount of sunlight
Getting sunlight right can take trial and error. If your plant is small and hardy enough to be moved, or you keep it in a pot, then you may find yourself needing to move it in order to meet your plant’s sunlight needs.
Plants are great communicators, and you will be able to tell how your plant is going if you know what to look for. A plant that is getting perfect sunlight will look bright, lush and happy, with plenty of new growth occurring. It’s always a wonderful feeling to watch it grow.
A plant that is not getting enough sunlight will look thin and sparse, with little to no leaf growth. You may notice them ‘stretching’ towards the light, desperate for just a bit more. Similarly, a plant that is getting too much sunlight will also look unhealthy, with burnt and browning leaves. Bright colours will fade, and your garden will look dried out
Just like water and soil, getting sunlight right is a balance, and each plant is an individual. You may not get it right first thing, but keep trying. With persistence and a little bit of gardening knowledge, your garden will begin to flourish before your eyes.
Trust us, you’ll be a green thumb before you know it!
This has been our comprehensive guide to soil, water and sunlight. These are the basic needs for every plant. Get these right, and you’ll be a gardening master in no time.
If you’re looking for more information, you’ve definitely come to the right place. You’ll find plenty more advice on these topics in our Gardening Advice section, or you can always ask our knowledgeable team of gardeners about any questions you might have.If you’re feeling ready to jump into the garden and get started, come into one of our Diaco’s Garden Centres today or shop our Online Garden Store now.
Here are some of the most important things you need to know about your indoor plants. We love plants at Diacos, and we’re huge fans of keeping indoor gardens in your home
Indoor plants are a great way to liven up a room and bring a bit of the tranquillity that comes from being around nature. The simple act of caring for indoor plants can also add a calming ritual to your day.
Having a better understanding of your indoor plants will help you care for them better and increase the chances of your plant living a long, healthy life. Here are the top 9 things you need to know about indoor plants.
1. Every indoor plant is different
As we’re fond of saying, there’s actually no such thing as an ‘Indoor’ plant. Rather, there are many plants of all different types and species that can survive in an indoor environment. The category of ‘Indoor Plants’ covers plants from all over the world, from diverse climates like freezing deserts, temperate jungles and dry savannahs.
So while there are a handful of tips and tricks that apply to all indoor plants – many of which we’ll talk about in this article – it can be tough to give advice that applies to every plant. And that’s okay! This diversity is part of what makes plants so beautiful and interesting.
All this means is that you may not be able to take a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach to caring for your indoor plants. Always check the care instructions for your plant to find out what kind of environment it needs. You can always contact us to ask our friendly gardening experts any questions you might have.
2. Be careful not to overwater! It’s easier to do than you think.
Overwatering is the most common reason that indoor plants die. People water their plants regularly because they care about them and they want them to do well, but not every plant needs that much water. Constant watering may literally drown many popular plants.
This is partly because plants need oxygen to breathe. Soil that is always wet won’t let enough oxygen through, and the roots may suffocate as a result. Overwatering can also lead to root rot and attract pests, diseases and fungus to your plant. Some plants will be more susceptible to this than others.
Luckily, you can usually spot the signs of overwatering before you get to this stage. Soil that is always damp is the biggest giveaway, but yellowing or browning leaves and soft, mushy stems are another sign. You may even notice a damp, unpleasant odour.
If your plant is exhibiting any of these signs, try watering it less. It should return to normal over time. You should also invest in pots with good drainage and try allowing the soil to drain completely after watering. Check out our step-by-step guide to watering your plants for more info.
3. Good quality potting mix is just as important as water or sunlight.
Potting mix – and soil in general – is essential to plant growth. We’d even argue that it’s on the same level as water and sunlight when it comes to growing strong, vibrant plants. If you’re shopping at our store, try our Diacos Premium Potting Mix. We’ve used our gardening knowledge to formulate our own premium total care soil that plants will love.
Some indoor plants will require different soil types in order to truly thrive. There are roughly three types of soil out there: rich composted soil, clay soil and sandy soil. Most of the indoor plants that we stock prefer rich, nutritious soil, but some plants will naturally prefer clay and sand instead.
You can tell which type of soil is which by squeezing some in your hand. Rich soil will feel moist and a little crumbly to the touch, clay soil will be stubborn and solid, and sandy soil will fall apart in your hand. This ‘squeeze test’ is also a great way to test the current level of moisture in your soil.
4. Salt will build up in your soil if you don’t leach it.
Speaking of soil, you may need to occasionally flood or ‘leach’ your soil to flush out any salt deposits that have been building up. How often you need to do this will depend on your plant, your soil and your environment.
One thing that causes salt to build up very quickly is using softened tap water to water your plants. Soft water is generally treated with sodium to remove the ‘harder’ minerals and make it more pleasant to drink. However, this high sodium content will cause salt deposits to build up fast in your soil.
A heavy watering that is allowed to drain fully out of the pot should remove these salt deposits. However, leaching will also flood the helpful nutrients out of your soil as well. Using some kind of fertiliser or plant food after you leach can help restore a healthy level of nutrients to your plant soil afterwards.
5. Indoor Plants are good for you!
Humans have been tending to gardens for thousands of years. Recently, a lot of research has been done into the relationships between gardening and good health. There are plenty of scientific studies out there detailing all the different ways that keeping indoor plants is good for our wellbeing.
For one, researchers have found that stress levels, productivity and attention span all improve when there are plants in the room. Plants have also been shown to remove some air pollutants and improve the quality of your indoor air – you can thank NASA for figuring that one out.
Finally, strong links have also been found between regularly touching soil bacteria and having good gut health. Yes, really. So what are you waiting for? Get that green thumb going and get healthy! We’re very passionate about the health benefits of gardening, and you can read more here.
6. But not every indoor plant is good for your pets…
If you own a cat or a dog, you need to be careful when you’re choosing an indoor plant. Many popular varieties of indoor plants – like Monsteras or Lilies – can be toxic to your household pets. They contain naturally occurring toxins that are relatively harmless to us but can hurt or even kill our furry friends.
Always read the care instructions or chat with one of our friendly garden experts if you are ever unsure. If you feel that you absolutely must keep one of these toxic plants in your home, be sure to keep it somewhere well out of reach from your pets.
Thankfully, there are plenty of dog and cat-safe indoor plants out there for you to choose from instead. These include Calathea (Prayer Plants), Lady Palms and Boston Ferns.
7. Don’t be afraid to experiment, but be steady about it.
Caring for any plant is a bit of a trial-and-error process. You’ll likely end up trying lots of different things as you respond to what your plant is telling you, whether that’s moving it into different lighting or changing up your watering schedule.
Even the most experienced gardeners will take time to learn the preferences of their new plant. This experimentation is a natural part of gardening and will help make you a more confident, practised green thumb over time – so don’t be afraid to try new things!
It is still good to go steady, however, as consistency is important to plants. A lot of plants won’t handle lots of sudden changes or fluctuating temperatures very well, even if they are otherwise hardy. The Fiddle Leaf Fig is a good example of this.
So go slowly and carefully when you are changing something for your indoor plant. The last thing you want to do is accidentally cause your plant to go into shock.
8. Indoor plants need a little bit of outdoor time too.
As we mentioned earlier, ‘Indoor Plants’ don’t really exist. All plants come from the outdoors, but if a plant can survive well inside, then it’s an indoor plant. However, no plant is truly designed to live inside, and your indoor plants will benefit from spending some time outside once in a while.
When to put your plants out depends on what they need. Some light rain will be great for your thirstier plants, and most plants (except low light indoor plants) will appreciate a few hours of unfiltered sunshine every now and then.
Just be careful about putting your indoor plants out in the freezing Winter cold. As we mentioned, these kinds of temperature fluctuations can shock or even kill some plants. The burning midday sun in Summer may also prove too brutal for some plants, so use your best judgement with the weather.
One other good reason to give your plants a bit of rain is dust. Dust will build up on your plants in the still indoor environment, and it can interfere with their photosynthesis. You can fix this by gently wiping down your plant leaves with a rag, but giving them a little natural rain and wind is even easier.
9. Pests happen. But they are fairly easy to deal with.
An indoor plant that is well looked after will provide you with joy for years and years. But over such a long time frame, the likelihood that you will deal with plant pests is all but inevitable.
Pests are a common issue with indoor plants, but they are not the end of the world. Aphids, mealybugs, mites, scale insects and fungus gnats are some of the most frequent offenders. These little guys are often hard to spot and can cause havoc with your plant over time.
Thankfully, pests are usually easy to get rid of with the right methods and a bit of patience. Check out our guide on how to deal with the 7 most common indoor plant pests for more information.
Caring for indoor plants can sometimes be a bit of a learning curve for beginners, but it’s such a fulfilling hobby to learn about.
Hopefully, these 9 tips can make it all a little easier for you. Being armed with the right knowledge about how to look after your leafy friends will give you a much better chance of keeping your plant alive and happy.
Ready to get gardening? Explore the range of gorgeous indoor plants at Diacos and always feel free to ask our helpful gardening experts for advice.
Watering is essential to the life of your indoor plants. It’s one of the key ingredients to keeping them happy and healthy.
Plants that grow outdoors get much of their water naturally, though they will still need to be watered in the warmer, drier months. Read our step-by-step guide to watering your plants here.
Indoor plants don’t have the luxury of being rained on. Keeping your indoor plants happy and thriving requires a slightly deeper knowledge of your plant’s watering needs. That’s why our team of gardening experts have put together this comprehensive guide to watering your indoor plants.
One thing to keep in mind… Every plant is different. Always make sure to check and follow the care instructions that come with your specific plant. However, understanding the basics of indoor plant watering is the first step to growing and enjoying happy, healthy plants!
Why your indoor plant needs water.
Like humans, plants are mostly made up of water, and they need to drink it regularly to stay healthy.
Around 90% of a plant’s cellular structure is made of water – it’s what fills the plant cells and keeps them rigid and upright. Without a steady supply of H2O, these cell structures will quickly begin to break down and sag.
Water also helps plants perform a number of essential functions that they need to survive. For one, it helps absorb nutrients and circulate them around the plant. Extracting glucose from water is an integral part of their photosynthesis process (the conversion of sunlight to nutrients) and it also helps them maintain and regulate their ideal temperatures
This is true of every plant – even the ones that have evolved to need very little water. Like every living thing on earth, plants just need water to survive.
Overwatering is a more common issue than underwatering.
This is our number one tip to keep in mind for people who are new to watering indoor plants.
Most of us learn from a young age that plants need water, and someone who is new to caring for plants is likely to water their plant regularly and enthusiastically.
This constant watering comes from a good place, but it isn’t always the best idea. Overwatering is actually the most common reason that indoor plants die off. As a rule, most plants will prefer it if you let the soil dry completely before watering again. Always test the first few centimetres of soil with your fingers before watering. If it’s wet or damp, don’t water it.
Plant roots need oxygen just as much as they need water, and soil that is wet all the time won’t let enough oxygen through, causing your plant to quite literally drown. Too much constant moisture can also cause root rot and create a damp environment for diseases, mould and pests to flourish.
The best way to avoid this is to invest in pots with good drainage and err on the side of caution when you first get your plant, especially for dry-climate plants like cacti. Keep an eye out for yellowing or wilting leaves, soft stems and foul, damp odours – these are the most common signs of overwatering.
Remember to always check the first few centimetres of soil with your fingers. If it is always damp, you are likely overwatering. Watering your indoor plants in the mornings is also a good idea. It will give the water a better chance to soak in properly, and to naturally evaporate throughout the course of the day.
How to know when your indoor plants need water
Checking the first few centimetres of soil with your fingers is the best way to tell when your plant is thirsty. You can also squeeze some in your palm for the same results.
If the soil is dry and crumbly, it’s time for a drink. Already wet and sticky? Then you probably shouldn’t water it. Lightly moist soil means it’s at the perfect level right now. This simple, old-school technique is still what most experienced gardeners rely on to get the moisture right.
Your plant will generally let you know if it is feeling unhealthy. Wilted leaves, discolouration and a general sad vibe are the biggest giveaways. But as you may have noticed, these are almost the same as the signs for overwatering!
That’s why the best thing to do is check your soil – it’s one of the most accurate markers of the level of moisture in your indoor plant.
4 tips for watering your indoor plants effectively.
There are lots of ways to water indoor plants easily, without making a mess. We’ve listed some of our favourite techniques and tips below:
- Water the soil, not the leaves. It is good to get your whole plant wet sometimes, but the roots are where most of the water absorption actually happens. That means it’s important to water your plant so that the water seeps down properly into the soil. Aiming your watering can at the base of the plant also helps you to avoid splashing water everywhere whilst indoors.
- Water from Below. Many gardeners swear by this method, and it’s particularly great for indoor plants with stems that are sensitive to water. Place a tray full of water beneath your pot and let the water soak up into the roots via the drainage holes. Keep refilling the tray until it won’t absorb any more, and then remove. Simple, clean and effective.
- Placing stones or pebbles over your soil is a good solution if you find that water evaporates too quickly from your indoor plant, or if you’re growing something that likes to stay moist. That’s because the stones trap the water in the soil, keeping it moist for longer. They also repel pests like gnats and help stop dirt from spreading or spilling onto your floor.
- Wicking is a great low-effort method for watering your indoor plants while you are away from home. It involves inserting a length of twine or string deep into your soil and then placing the other end in a container of water. The string will absorb the water from the container and slowly transfer (or ‘wick’) the water to your plant over a number of days. You can read the WikiHow on Wicking for a quick guide.
Is tap water okay for my indoor plants?
Good question! Many plant owners may not have considered whether the water they’re giving to their plants is actually appropriate.
‘Hard’ tap water that still contains natural minerals is considered good for most plants, though water that is very hard may cause problems. However, most people agree that ‘Soft’ or treated tap water is not healthy for your garden.
This is because softened water has usually been treated with sodium. This can cause high levels of salts to build up in your soil, which will confuse and dehydrate your plant. Chlorinated tap water is safe for most plants, but not ideal for some. Rainwater and filtered water are generally your best options.
Australia is a very dry country, so the quality of tap water and the amount of softening additives it includes can vary greatly between different cities and regions. Victoria and Melbourne have fairly soft water, so if you notice your more sensitive plants are struggling, the sodium levels of the tap water could be why.
The good news is that you don’t need to install a huge rainwater tank or do anything drastic. Just remember to put your watering can or a few open containers outside when it rains. A basic filtration system is also a viable and affordable option for most budding gardeners. You can also flood out or ‘leach’ salt deposits from your soil with a heavy watering.
Common Dry and Wet Indoor Plants
As we’ve mentioned, every indoor plant is different. It would be impossible for us to list all the different watering needs of every type of plant, and you’d probably fall asleep trying to read it!
However, it can still help to have a working knowledge of common dry and wet indoor plant types. This can help you choose a plant that you’ll be able to look after.
- Indoor Plants that love to be dry include Zanzibar Gem, Mother-In-Law’s Tongue, and various cacti and succulents. The trick is to consider the plant’s natural climate in the wild. If it normally grows somewhere dry and drought-stricken, like the desert, then it’s usually a dry-loving plant that needs less frequent watering than other plants.
- Indoor plants that love a lot of moisture generally hail from tropical areas and rainforests where it is always wet. These plants are hard to overwater and includes most of the popular ferns. These plants are good for a bathroom, or if you’re worried that you might be the type to overwater.
There is such a wide away of indoor plants out there – after all, an ‘indoor plant’ is any plant that you can keep indoors – so it’s always important to check the specific care instructions for the plant that you’re bringing home.
By following the general watering tips and information set out in this guide, you’ll be on the road to growing a huge, healthy indoor garden in no time!
Anyone can learn to be a natural green thumb with a little bit of time, love and care. Check out our diverse range of beautiful indoor plants at Diacos today to get your indoor garden started.
Sunlight is an essential ingredient for every plant. Generally, indoor plants will experience sunlight in a slightly different way than outdoor plants. We’ve written before about How Much Sunlight Plants Need, but that guide was largely focused on outdoor gardens.
Given the booming popularity of indoor plants right now, we thought it was about time for a guide that focused a bit more on the leafy family that live inside your home. Here’s what you should know about indoor plants and sunlight.
Why do Indoor Plants need sunlight?
Just in case you need a refresher, plants need sunlight in order to photosynthesise. We talk about photosynthesis often on our gardening advice blog, and that’s because it’s the most important biological process in the world.
Photosynthesis is the process that plants use to convert sunlight and water into energy and nutrients for your plant to feed on and survive. This amazing process also allows plants to convert the carbon dioxide in the air into oxygen, making all of life on earth possible.
It’s just one more reason that we think everyone should love plants. They do so much for us! So if you ever find yourself wondering if plants really need sunlight, remember that all life on earth depends on it.
The difference between indoor and outdoor sunlight.
Most outdoor plants receive direct sunlight, unless they’re under the verandah and in the shade all the time. When you are indoors, all of the sunlight that your plants receive will be filtered light. This is light that has passed through your windows or glass doors and is bouncing around your home. It’s usually less intense than direct, outdoor sunlight.
This gentler sunlight means outdoor plants that enjoy a bit of both sun and shade will often make for great indoor plants. But it’s important to realise that there are still varying degrees of intensity for filtered light. This means there are plenty of different options available when you’re choosing an indoor plant for your home.
Different types of indoor sunlight
Filtered indoor light can still be classified as full sun, partially shaded or fully shaded (often called low-light). Which one your plant will experience depends on the direction the nearest window is facing, and the distance that you place your plant from the window.
You’ll find that all of the indoor plants in our store can be browsed according to these three categories – just check the appropriate box in the ‘exposure’ menu above the store while you browse.
It’s worth remembering that these categories aren’t clear-cut for every plant, and many plants will thrive in a variety of conditions. Yet they are still helpful to know about, so let’s get into these three categories in a bit more detail.
1. Full Sun
Full sunlight indoors is usually found right in front of north or westerly facing windows. These windows get several hours of hot afternoon sun every day. Anywhere in your home that routinely enjoys a pool of bright, warm sunlight is likely a full-sunlight spot.
These plants may also benefit from occasionally spending a few hours outdoors. However, even sun-loving plants will sometimes need some shade too. Sun-loving indoor plants include the Maidenhair Fern, Ficus Benjamina and Pilea Aluminium.
2. Partial Sun and Shade
Partial sun is less intense than full sun, and can usually be achieved by placing your plants near a south or easterly facing window. This will allow your plants to get a few hours of gentle morning sun and then lots of shade in the afternoon.
If the care instructions for your indoor plant simply say ‘filtered light’, there’s a good chance that this is what they mean. Many indoor plants love this type of partial sun, including Japanese Aralia, Monstera and Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus Lyrata). Hot afternoon sun may burn these plants, so be careful where you place them.
3. Full shade / Low Light.
This is just what it sounds like – the kind of indirect, heavily filtered light that’s far away from your window. Many plants like somewhere in between full shade and partial sun. However, a plant that strongly prefers low light is likely to burn and struggle to survive if you place it too close to a source of sunlight. Keep it somewhere cool and dark instead.
These types of plants have usually evolved to live under a dense tree canopy where there isn’t much light. They may still like some occasional morning sun, but much less than a partial-sun plant would need. Popular low-light plants include Pothos Devils Ivy, Philodendrons, and Zanzibar Gem.
4. How to tell if your indoor plant isn’t getting enough sun.
Because they spend so much of their lives inside, it’s common for indoor plants to not get enough sun. You’ll be able to tell that your plant isn’t getting enough sun if it appears to be struggling to grow. It’s a sign that photosynthesis is limited or not occurring properly.
No new leaf growth, yellowing leaves, long & thin stems and generally sparse growth are all signs that your plant is struggling with not getting enough light. One well-observed sign of your plant needing light is that it may begin to lean or curve towards the sun.
This fascinating lean is called a phototropic response and has even led some scientists to debate whether plants are making ‘conscious’ choices the way that humans do. In reality, these movements are controlled by a hormone in the plant called Auxin, which reacts automatically to sunlight and moves around the plant accordingly.
If your plant is telling you that it isn’t getting enough sun, try moving it into a brighter location or taking it outside at regular intervals until it recovers. Rotating your plant can also help it receive sunlight more evenly. If none of this helps, it could be that your plant is suffering from a different issue, like over or underwatering.
How to tell if your indoor plant is getting too much sun.
It’s also very possible for your indoor plant to receive too much light. This is especially relevant to low-light plants, which are not able to withstand much sunlight before beginning to struggle. Yet even full-sun plants may burn in the hot summer months, especially if they are never moved or rotated.
Indoor plants that are receiving too much sun will become dried out and can feel crunchy or crusty to the touch. Plants that have flowers or bright foliage will also start to look sun-bleached and lose some of their distinctive colour. Finally, wilting and drooping are also signs of a sun-battered plant.
If you think your plant is getting a little too much sun, try moving it into a more shaded position for a while. Rotating your plant is also essential, as it ensures that the sunlight is distributed evenly and not laser-focused on one side of the plant.
Can I use indoor grow lights as a substitute for sunlight?
Some gardeners like to use grow lights for indoor plants to supplement or replace sunlight. We’ve found that while these lights do work, they don’t quite compare to the real thing. Grow lights will also cost money to run, whilst energy from the sun is completely free.
However, these lights are still a viable option if you live in an apartment with poor window placement, or if you are trying to grow vegetables inside. The most popular and energy-efficient option for grow lighting is LED lights. You can also use fluorescent lighting or HID lights, but these are more expensive to run.
You will see these grow lights marketed with numbers like 2000K or 4000K. This indicates where on the colour spectrum they are, and if they are putting out cool or warm light. Foliage plants prefer warm light, whereas fruit and flowers will need a cooler light to flourish.
The higher the ‘K’ number, the cooler the light. If you are interested in grow lights, here and here are both good resources for learning more.
Sunlight is essential for all plants. It’s always important to check the specific care instructions for the plant that you’re bringing home to see exactly what kind of sunlight conditions it will need.
By following the tips and information set out in this guide, you’ll be on the road to growing a huge, healthy indoor garden in no time. Anyone can learn to be a natural green thumb with a little bit of time, love and care!
Check out the diverse range of beautiful indoor plants at Diacos today to get your indoor garden started.
The Fiddle Leaf Fig – or Ficus Lyrata – is a popular indoor plant with large vibrant green leaves, hailing from the steamy rainforests of Africa.
Fiddle Leaf Figs are fairly large plants in general; they grow up to 15-30 metres in the wild and can easily reach between 6 and 10 feet high indoors. If this sounds a bit daunting to you, don’t worry. Smaller ‘Ficus Lyrata Bambino’ varieties are also available.
These splendid plants will look striking in a home or commercial space. But they definitely need a bit of careful love to really thrive. Fiddle Leaf Figs may have developed a reputation for being fussy, yet they’re actually quite resilient if you can get the conditions right.
Here’s how to grow and care for your Fiddle Leaf Fig indoors.
Potting your Fiddle Leaf Fig
You should pick a larger-than-average pot for Fiddle Leaf Figs, because this plant grows quickly. Don’t choose a pot that’s too much larger than your plant though, or the soil may take on more water than the plant needs, potentially leading to root rot.
Root rot and leaf-dropping are very common issues with these plants. Try to select a pot with good drainage to prevent the roots from becoming soggy and waterlogged. A good rule of thumb when potting is to look for a pot that is slightly larger than the ball of the root.
To keep your Fiddle Leaf healthy and happy, you should re-pot it every couple of years or so into a slightly larger pot. You will likely need to repot this plant every Spring while it is young, as the growth can be quite rapid. But be careful if you decide to repot it in winter, because exposure to cold temperatures (10-15 degrees Celsius or lower) may stress out or kill this plant.
Repotting will become fairly difficult once your Fiddle Leaf Fig matures into a large plant. When repotting is no longer possible, it may still help to replace the top layer of soil (down to about 5-10cm or so) every Spring.
Watering
The key to watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig is moderation. Overwatering is probably the most common cause of death for these plants, so don’t go overboard. Water your fiddle leaf regularly from Spring through to Autumn, around once every 7-14 days. In Winter this plant will need much less water – as little as once a month, even.
The roots of the Fiddle Leaf are very susceptible to rotting when they get waterlogged, so if you see your leaves starting to drop off, take a break. It’s also important not to under water either. You’ll know it’s not getting enough water if the plant starts wilting, losing its colour or generally starting to look sad and unkempt.
A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger a few centimetres into the soil first. If it’s completely dry, then you’re good to go. If it’s still moist, you should wait until the soil drains completely.
It’s also a good idea to ‘leach’ or flush out your pot every few weeks (or months) with a thorough watering, to stop salt or other mineral deposits from building up in the soil. You can read more about watering your indoor plants here.
Sunlight
The other essential ingredient to caring for your plant is making sure it’s getting enough sunlight. This is another area where you’ll need to find the sweet spot – direct sunlight will burn this plant, but low light conditions may stunt its growth. Partial Sun and Shade are ideal. You can check out our guide to Plants and Sunlight to get a better idea of what this looks like.
Aim for plenty of filtered morning light, as your Fiddle Leaf should do well in these conditions. Try placing your plant near a window where it’s going to get long, steady exposure in the mornings. Unfortunately, the afternoon sun in most Australian cities is likely to be too hot and harsh for this plant, so try and avoid west-facing windows, especially in the warmer months.
You may also want to rotate your plant regularly to ensure that it’s getting enough sunlight all the way around. This will help it grow more evenly and give it a better chance at a healthy life. Don’t constantly move it around your home though – the shock might be too much for your fiddle leaf. Consistency is key with these plants.
Ideal Temperature
As we mentioned, this fig originates from the rainforests of Western Africa, where it enjoys a steamy, tropical climate all year round. If you’re growing your fiddle leaf fig outside, a tropical climate is where it will do best. Yet Fiddle Leaf Figs are probably most popular as indoor plants, and there’s a reason for that.
While these plants do prefer a warmer environment, they will generally be quite hardy as long as the temperature is consistent and not freezing cold. The steady, mild temperatures of an indoor environment will actually be good for this plant, provided you don’t place it near an air-conditioner, a heater or your front door.
The other thing that these plants need is a good amount of humidity in the air. We think that around 40-50% is the sweet spot, but slightly lower or higher should still be okay. Your home or apartment is unlikely to reach that level of humidity very often, but placing a humidifier in the room can help a lot.
Another good solution is to mist your plant daily or regularly wipe down the leaves with a damp cloth. This should keep your Fiddle Leaf happy and help it soak up some extra sun too.
One popular humidity-raising technique is to place your pot on a tray of pebbles or stones with a layer of water beneath the stones – just make sure the water isn’t touching the pot.
Soil and Fertiliser
Most high-quality potting mixes should be okay for a Fiddle Leaf Fig. These plants aren’t too fussy about soil, and any good quality potting mix is likely to do the trick. Yet there are a couple of important things to look for when you’re choosing a soil.
One is acidity: Look for a range between 6-7ph for optimal results. The other thing is drainage, which is very important for this plant. Always pick a soil that drains well to help your plant avoid that dreaded root rot.
As for fertiliser, use a controlled-release fertiliser when you first pot this plant. Then use a high-nitrogen, water-soluble fertiliser throughout the Spring-Summer growing season, roughly around once a month. The nitrogen helps to give the leaves their signature deep green colour.
Pruning
A little bit of pruning will be good for your Fiddle Leaf Fig. If you see any leaves that look as if they are yellowing, crusty or generally sad, then give them the snip. For best results, don’t cut too close to the trunk, and try not to cut off new buds.
You can also use pruning to help ensure an even, visually appealing growth. If you feel that one part of your fiddle leaf is becoming a bit too dense and layered, don’t be afraid to cut it back. It’s likely to help the overall health of your plant, too.
Propagation
It is possible to propagate your Fiddle Leaf Fig with a little bit of patience. Propagating from a seed will be too difficult for most DIY gardeners, but propagating from a cutting is easy enough. Take a good, long stem cutting (around 30-50cm) and place it upright in a container filled with water.
Keep this somewhere with a warm room temperature and a mix of bright, filtered sunlight and partial shade. To help replicate the right conditions in a colder environment, placing an empty plastic bottle over the top of your cutting can help intensify the sunlight, humidity and heat that your plant is receiving.
Replace your water every couple of weeks or so, once it begins to look dirty or misty. Over a period of about 2 months, you will start seeing roots begin to grow from your cutting. Once these roots start to look longer and thicker, it’s time to transfer your cutting to a small pot. Keep this soil slightly moister than you would for a mature fiddle leaf, whilst still taking care not to overwater it.
Common Problems with Fiddle Leaf Figs.
As we mentioned earlier, the most common problem that these plants experience is rotting roots from overwatering. Checking the top layer of soil has completely dried before watering again is still the best way to avoid this problem.
Thankfully, the Fiddle Leaf Fig is not as prone to disease as many other indoor plants. Yet you will still need to watch out for common plant problems like bacterial diseases, fungal growth and tiny pests like scale insects, aphids, fungal gnats and mites.
As with other issues, blemished or sad-looking leaves are the biggest indicator that your fiddle leaf is dealing with one or more of these issues. Using a good quality pesticide or fungal solution should usually be enough to help your plant bounce back, but you can check out our guide to dealing with indoor pests for more tips.
Many of these issues stem from an overly damp environment, so as with avoiding root rot, making sure your plant isn’t overwatered or soggy is the most important thing to look out for.
One final thing to note is that this plant can be toxic to cats and dogs, so it may not be a good choice of indoor plant for pet owners. Otherwise, though, the Fiddle Leaf Fig is a fantastic indoor plant that is resilient, easy to care for and can bring a lot of joy to your home.
This has been our guide to the Fiddle Leaf Fig. We love this special little plant and we’re sure that you will too. Following this guide will give you the best chance of growing a happy and healthy plant.
Check out our Fiddle Leaf Figs or explore the diverse range of Indoor Plants at Diacos. We’re here to help you fall in love with gardening.
Update:
Updated the 8:52 am the 19th of November, 2021
Hello Everyone,
We are open for retail and online shopping. Please follow government requirements on vaccination. You will need to be double vaccinated to enter a Diaco’s location. We have put in place procedures and practices to make Diaco’s a safe shopping experience.
Retail Trade Sector Guidance
- The vaccinated economy will remain, as will face masks in some settings.
- Non-essential retail settings across Victoria will join the vaccinated economy. It will only be open to people who are fully vaccinated or have a valid medical exemption, and children aged under 12 years and two months.
- Vaccine requirements for general retail apply from 11:59pm 18 November 2021 as Victoria has reached 90 per cent double dose.
https://www.coronavirus.vic.gov.au/coronavirus-sector-guidance-retail-trade
We look forward to seeing you again!
Thank you,
The Diaco’s Family
Updated as of 8:40 am, 21st of October 2021
As a group, we have a duty of care – to communicate business practices, regarding COVID-19, to employees and customers. As of Friday the 13th of March,2020 we’ve put together a group-wide policy to put in practical safeguards for everyone visiting and working at our stores.
As a community, we stand united in the need to be sensible and responsible for how our individual actions may impact the lives of people who are more vulnerable to the virus. We ask that all customers take the time to read our policy guidelines and support your community by adopting behaviours to prevent the spread of COVID-19.
Our Operating Capacity
As of 11:59 pm the 21st of October, 2021, outdoor retail will be permitted for all our Melbourne Metro Stores. As such here are our guidelines and policies –
Please ensure that –
- Retail sheds are roped off to the general public, these internal areas cannot be accessed by customers.
- In Mornington and Heatherton, please use all POSs to limit ques and allow for social distancing – keep all exits and entrances open
- In Keilor that the POS is outside, we suggest moving a POS device closer to the forklift entrance, or another appropriate undercover solution.
- Customers are requested to distance themselves in the POS area
Geelong will be operating as usual with COVID safe practices in place.
Online shopping and click and collect will also be available for all stores.
Customers Are Asked to Log their Visits
All stores will ask customers entering the premises to log their visit. The link to our digital log is https://diacos.com.au/entry . An A4 poster will be provided to each store and it needs to be printed and posted at the entrance. Trade customers will need to use their own devices for registration so that this process can happen in a contact-free method. This entry log will not be used for marketing purposes. A copy of the log will be stored digitally, and each log will be sent to you.
We are issuing work permits
Until otherwise required by the Victorian Government, Stage 4 – Work permits will be issued to all employees in Melbourne Metro. The Permitted Worker Permit template is attached to the accompanying email of this policy. All store managers are required by law to provide each staff member with a permit.
We are staying informed
We are monitoring the status on a daily basis, we are referring to trusted sites, like the WHO website and the Department of Health website, or Victoria Health and Human Services site. We have also familiarised ourselves with Worksafe Victoria’s legal guidance materials relating to coronavirus in workplaces.
We are talking to our team
We know that employees may be anxious about the risk to their health. We have addressed their fears with regular, informed updates. Under WHS/OHS legislation requirements we have provided information to employees about health and safety in the workplace. We have provided employees with the right advice on good hygiene practices for work and home.
We have
- Promoted respect and understanding
- Allowed employees to ask questions and share their concerns
We have made sure that we do not
- Create a culture of fear and discrimination
- Share information that is unproven
We have outlined our health and safety standards
High personal hygiene standards are vital to protect against the spread of infection. We recommend you practice good hygiene to protect against infections.
Good hygiene Includes –
- Wash hands often with soap and running water, for at least 20 seconds. Dry with a paper towel or hand dryer.
- Try not to touch your eyes, nose, or mouth.
- Cover your nose and mouth with a tissue when you cough or sneeze. If you don’t have a tissue cough or sneeze into your upper sleeve or elbow.
- Isolate yourself at home if you feel sick. If you take medication to ensure you have adequate supplies.
- Phone your GP first if you need medical attention. They will tell you what to do.
- Continue healthy habits: exercise, drink water, get plenty of sleep, and now is the time to quit smoking. Call Quitline 137 848.
- The wearing of face masks/coverings are now mandatory as regulated by the Victorian government
- Buy an alcohol-based hand sanitiser with over 60 per cent alcohol
- Please avoid shaking hands
Additional measures -implemented by stores
- All cashier staff are advised to wear rubber gloves and all nursery staff are advised to garden wear gloves
- Requirement- Providing hand sanitiser for staff and customers – subject to availability
- Please maintain acceptable levels of social distancing – this is about 1.5m away from one another and customers
- Please clean the POS area frequently with an appropriate cleaning product
- All staff must inform us immediately if they are experiencing symptoms and or have a family member who has been experiencing symptoms – you are advised to stay at home.
- Please print out this guide and have it pinned up in common areas – kitchen and POS area.
- Ask each employee to sign a policy acknowledgment document
We are open and offering online orders/delivery
Stage 4 – As of 8 pm on Thursday the 6th of August 2021 our stores in Victoria will be open to trade customers only and open to fulfil pick up and delivery orders. If you would like to purchase garden supplies or plants you can use our online store. If a product isn’t available online – feel free to contact your local store. diacos.com.au/locations. For elderly and high-risk individuals, we are happy to take phone orders and process payments online.
For Our Managers, we have encouraged them to
Ask employees to notify us immediately if they:
- have travelled to an affected area since the beginning of 2020; and/or
- are suffering, or have suffered, flu-like symptoms since the virus was first detected.
If they have answered yes to either of these questions, we have directed them not to attend work during the risk period and ask them to seek medical advice and clearance before returning to work.
We are sharing our requirements with customers
Display information material of your requirements in your reception area, email footers, website, and/or social media. This indicates to all visitors your expectations about what they should do while in your workplace.
What about Domestic and International travel
Employers should consider whether any scheduled business travel is necessary for the current environment. If possible, choose alternative communication options.
Information Sources
This information has been compiled from a number of trusted sources, however, if you have any questions relating to novel coronavirus, contact the Coronavirus Health Information Line, which operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Tel: 1800 020 080
Our policy is subject to change – we are holding weekly meetings and we will update you with any policy changes. Thank you for taking the time to read. Stay safe, help others, and keep calm.
On behalf of the Diaco’s Family,
Mario Diaco
In a world full of people, plants are our little green friends. They provide us with food and oxygen while making the planet more beautiful than it would otherwise be! But how much sunlight do they need? And what can we do to ensure that they get the right amount depending on their type?
Why Do Plants Need Sunlight?
Plants are one of the most important organisms on Earth. Without these humble life forms, not only would our planet be devoid of edible fruit and vegetables but oxygen as well! So how do they do it? It’s a long process where plants capture sunlight to harness their energy through photosynthesis (the process in which plants turn carbon dioxide into sugars).
Plants then transfer this sugar through cellular reactions that create glucose molecules like cellulose or starch while releasing free oxygen back into the atmosphere. It’s one of the many reasons for having plants in your home. But not all plants need or want the same amount of light to complete this process. So, how do you know how much is the right amount?
Sunlight Light Quality and Quantity
Plants are clever little things. They’re able to assess both the quantity and quality of light they receive, which is just one more thing that sets them apart from other organisms on earth. Plants “see” in a way we don’t: plants can absorb only certain types of colour because their pigments work differently than ours do. For example, green isn’t necessary since it’s already present naturally as chlorophyll! Instead, plants need different colours like orange or blue – various combinations affect what type of photosynthesis occurs within the plant’s cells. Altering the light spectrum they receive could make all the difference between two crops by drastically varying nutritional value due to how much energy they capture from sunlight.
For a plant, the quantity of light refers to its intensity. When measuring sunlight, we want to look at the number of photons. Not to get too specific here, but there are two ways we can measure light ones: a super accurate method using PAR Meters or the second with Lux meters. These tools are great if you want to take your plant care to the next level.
The plants know the quality and quantity of light they need to grow successfully. The trick for us is to figure out how we help plants get what they need.
How Are Indoor and Outdoor Light Different?
For a plant, indoor and outdoor light are a little bit different. When a plant is outside, it can absorb light from every direction. Even if the plant is in a partially shaded area, the light reflects off surfaces around the plant.
When a plant is inside, its light source typically comes from a single direction like a window. When the light only comes at the plant from one direction, angle or source, it reduces the plant’s ability to capture it.
Types of Light
Now that you understand how a plant uses light to grow, you can consider how much light a plant needs. First, let’s go over the definition of light for plant care. When you add a plant to your home, the label will tell you how much light is needed based on one of the descriptors below.
Full Sunlight
These plants love full sun, and they like direct light for long, extended periods of it. This type of light happens during the middle of the day hours when the sun is the strongest. An indoor plant getting full sun will want at least a quarter of the day with the sun hitting the plant leaves. A full sun-loving plant is going to be more heat tolerant and drought tolerant than its counterparts.
Here in Melbourne, we recommend anywhere from 6-8 hours of light a day for your outdoor plants.
Part Sun/Part Shade
A part shade-loving plant will not get direct sunlight on it. It might like the light but often doesn’t want the hot afternoon sun beating on it. Likewise, a part sun-loving plant will need a few hours of good direct light but maybe not a whole day of that kind of light.
Full Shade
A full shade plant doesn’t like direct sun. This type of plant prefers filtered light. These plants would have evolved under larger tree canopies where light is scarce. So be mindful of where you put this plant. Typically, you would place them under a verandah with plenty of trees nearby, providing some cover from harsh direct light. For the outdoor garden, Tasmanian ferns are fans of full shade places. Inside, please don’t put them near a window where there is plenty of sunlight.
A shade loving plant only needs a few hours of sunlight a day. Often plants that are shade-loving grow well when they have a southern exposure.
Signs Your Plant Is Getting Too Much Light
Most plants are pretty good communicators and will tell you when their growing conditions aren’t quite right. Watch the signs. Plants that are getting too much light will look dried out. Often the edges of the leaves look dried out or burnt. If the plant flowers, the petals will dry out, and the colour will fade from the flowers. If you have a plant with colourful foliage, that colour will fade if there is too much sun.
Very often, a plant getting too much sun looks droopy and may also wilt.
Signs Your Plant Is Not Getting Enough Light
Your plant might also be trying to tell you it isn’t getting enough. Plants that aren’t getting enough light will look sparse. They often won’t have any new leaf growth. Leaves will be far apart on the stems of the plant. Plants that are not getting enough light can appear long and thin; often, it will seem as if they are stretching out trying to get as much light as possible. Leaves may even go yellow.
Sometimes plants that need more sunlight will appear to lean towards their light source.
Just the Right Amount of Light
We want your plants to look healthy and happy. Here are some ways to see if your plant is well placed and gets just the right amount of light. Leaves will look lush; this is one of the first signs you have a happy well-lit plant. The leaves should appear green in colour, with dense growth.
If the plant is growing fast, it’s a great sign; it is happy with the amount of light it’s getting. A plant with new growth popping out is probably getting the right amount of light.
Sun Loving Plants
If you have a spot in your home that gets direct bright light for many hours of the day, you might want to check out one of these sun-loving plants.
Indoor Plants: Maidenhair Fern, Ficus Rubra, Ficus Robusta, Fatsia Japonica, Yucca. These varieties will flourish with long hours of direct sunlight in your home.
Outdoor Plants: Ficus flash, Magnolia, Ornamental trees, Box hedge, Citrus and Fruit trees and Succulents
Shade Loving Plants
Not enough light at home? Don’t worry; some plants love it. Here are some shade-loving varieties.
Indoor Plants: Bird Nest Fern, Blechnum Silver Lady Fern, Devil’s Ivy, Dracaena Fragrans Happy Plant, Ficus Lyrata Fiddle Leaf Fig, Monstera Deliciosa
Outdoor Plants: Hydrangeas, Daphne, Cut Tree Ferns, Helleborus, Acanthus Mollis – oyster Plant
Remember, a shade loving plant still likes light, just not hot direct sunlight. They typically want a few hours of indirect light a day.
Part Shade and Part Sun Loving Plants
Many indoor plants will flourish in this part shade and part sun category. They want some good solid light but perhaps not the direct afternoon beating sun. Some part shade and part sun plants include-
Indoor Plants: Zanzibar Gem, Strobilanthes Persian Shield, Philodendron Rojo Congo and Hedera Variegated Ivy
Outdoor Plants: Azaleas, Japanese Maples, Camellias, Gardenias and Birds of Paradise
It’s good to know that plants in this category might say they light to be well-lit. Remember, part shade/sun-loving means they like a fair amount of light, just not the direct beating afternoon sun.
Plants Other Needs Beyond Sunlight
When you are trying to grow a healthy plant, light is only one part of the equation. If you think your plant lighting is okay, make sure the plant gets its other needs met. Plants will need water; giving them too much or not enough can impact their growth. Plants need good soil. Some plants are particular about the amount of drainage they get.
Know Which Plants Need Direct Sunlight and Which Prefer Less Light
Knowing how much sun a plant needs is one of the first tricks to becoming a successful plant grower. Whether your plant likes direct sunlight, full shade or something in-between, often it will communicate with you, letting you know if the conditions aren’t quite right. Check out our online plants to shop online for plants that we will happily get delivered to your home. Choose a nicely lit spot in your home and add a plant to it today.
One of the keys to achieving that mythical green thumb is understanding how to water your plants. It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about an indoor houseplant, hedges across your boundary, or your vegetable garden. A big part of getting these plants to flourish is giving them water.
More specifically, the key to getting them to flourish is giving them the right amount of water. In fact, when you water your plants, you are more likely to hurt them by giving them too much water than not enough of it.
So, how much water is too much for plants? What’s the best way to give water to a plant and how often? Read on for some tips on how to water your plants.
Why Does a Plant Need Water?
You might think the answer is simple and straightforward. But it turns out that there’s a lot going on behind the scenes when it comes to how plant cells function. For example, did you know about photosynthesis? Plants convert carbon dioxide into oxygen with the help of sunlight by using chlorophyll in their leaves to make sugars to help the plant grow. Water supports this mechanism, without it, the plant simply can’t do what needs to do.
Water in the plant helps the plant to maintain its structure. The cells in the plant act like little tiny water balloons holding the water. This is what helps keep the stems straight and give plants their structure. It’s the same reason when a plant doesn’t get enough water, it flops over and looks wilted.
Plants also are constantly going through a process called transpiration. As the sun hits the leaves of a plant, it evaporates water through the leaves. The plant then knows to send water from the roots where it’s gathered to the part of the plant where it’s most needed.
Water Your Plant Basics
So, now that you know how a plant uses water, you need to know how much water to give the plant (especially since overwatering is a common problem) and how often to water too. The simplest answer to all water-related questions for your plants is that it will depend on the plant itself. Just like plants vary by the amount of sunlight they need to grow, water needs vary by plant too.
There are a few basic things to know as it relates to watering. When you re-pot a plant or put a plant in the soil for the first time, you should always give it some water.
Not only will the actual plant type impact how much water to give, but it will also vary depending on the size of the pot the plant is in. Larger pots will take longer to dry and therefore will not need to be watered as frequently as plants in smaller pots.
Consider the location of the plant when you water your plants. Plants that are in bright sunlight will dry out more quickly and likely need more water than plants that grow with less light. If you keep your home more humid or live in a humid region, plants will need less water because they won’t dry out quickly.
Consider Your Plants Origin for Water Needs
It makes sense to consider where a plant grows naturally to understand more about its water needs. Think about succulent plants as an example. You know that succulents need very little water. These plants come from desert areas where water is scarce. On the flip side consider palms and ferns that generally like more humidity and water. Many of these types of plants grow naturally in jungles and humid environments.
Other Factors Impacting Water Needs
There are a few other factors that might impact how much water your plants will need. For example, the more direct sunlight a plant gets, the more water it’s likely to need. Think about a vegetable garden out in the sunlight for hours on end each day. It is likely that plants in this situation will need daily watering. Plants growing with very little light can retain their water longer and are likely to need watering less frequently.
The amount of water a plant needs may also vary depending on the season too. Outdoor plants may have different needs for water during the hottest months of the year compared to cooler seasons when they will need less water.
How to Water Your Plants
Once you know the factors that might impact watering, then you really want to look more closely at your plant when it’s time to water it. Many people like using a simple feel test. Start by pressing your finger into the soil, then continue down a couple of centimetres. If the soil feels dry, the plant needs some water. If the soil is damp on top, avoid watering.
There are several ways to give plant water and the best way may depend on the plant. For a large pot on a regular watering schedule, you probably want to water slowly, allowing the water to soak down into the dirt beyond just the surface. Remember, most plants don’t have those hard-working roots at the surface. You want the water to soak down far into the plant’s pot.
Some plants prefer a much slower watering system. You can purchase watering bulbs that slowly release water into the soil. Some plants, like orchids, even like a few ice cubes that slowly melt into the plant allowing the roots to not get too wet too fast.
The other option for some plants is to let them sit in a saucer of water for a period of time. This allows the roots to soak in the water from the bottom of the pot. There are some plants who in addition to the water in their soil also like humidity. This type of plant will benefit from regular misting on the leaves.
No matter how you water your plants, most of them benefit from good drainage. Make sure there is some sort of hole at the bottom to allow fluids to flow out and away from roots. This will help prevent root rot because it’ll make sure everything that gets collected inside can be whisked off rather than sit around in stagnant pools for too long!
Signs of Overwatering
Plants are usually pretty good communicators if something isn’t going well for them. They will often present clues that they have been overwatered. If a plant gets too much water or the soil is constantly too wet, it can feel to the roots of the plant-like they are drowning. Plant roots need access to oxygen as well as water. Too much water prevents that from happening.
Plants that are overwatered will often have little new growth. The growth they have will often start to yellow. The leaf edges will yellow and the green of the plant will fade.
This might sound confusing but another sign of overwatering is wilting. Of course, this is a sign of under-watering too. If your plant is wilting, then check the soil. If the soil is very dry and you have a wilting plant, it needs water. If the plant appears to be wilting and limp but the soil is still damp or wet, it’s likely a sign of overwatering.
When to Water Your Plants
Some people who have many plants like to set up a watering schedule. Maybe they water their plants once a week, for example. If the conditions never change for the plant, light and temperature are consistent, this might follow a basic watering schedule. But you should always check a plant’s soil before just adding water because it’s on the schedule to water it.
Water Is Water, Right?
Most people will simply turn on the tap, get water and take it to their plants. In most cases, tap water is fine to use for plants. Some people have water softeners that add salt to the water. Over time, this can be a problem for some plants.
Water that is chlorinated is fine for most plants too. Plants will always appreciate fresh rainwater if you want to collect it and give it to them the way nature would.
Water Your Plants With All Your Watering Knowledge
While there is not a hard and fast rule for how much water to give or when to give it, plants will help you figure it out. Water your plants when the soil dries out and it appears they need more. Do you want more information about your plant care? Need help knowing how to help your plants grow? Contact us today and one of our experts will be happy to assist.
Gardenias, with their intoxicatingly sweet smell and dark glossy leaves, are favourites of gardeners and flowers lovers alike. Brides love gardenias in their bouquets for the scent to spread as they walk down the aisle.
The gardenia was developed by the famous Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus who showed them to his friend, English merchant John Ellis. The story goes that Linnaeus thought at first he might have another variety of jasmine. Later, he decided he had a completely new plant and needed a name.
Ellis suggested they name the plant after his Scottish pen pal, Dr Alexander Garden, living in Charleston, South Carolina. So, in 1758 the gardenia was born and has been filling gardens with its beautiful dark leaves and intoxicating buds ever since.
If you adore the smell of the gardenia and its glossy leaves and want to try your green thumb at growing some of your own, read on for all you need to know about the gardenia.
Gardenia Growing
The gardenia is a shrub that can grow up to 8 feet tall. It is bushy in nature. Despite the story about its name, the gardenia is believed to be native to Japan and China.
The gardenia does grow best in Zones 8 to 11 but there many varieties that now tolerate Zones 6 or 7.
Gardenias usually bud with their sweet-smelling flowers in spring and summer, although some varieties will bloom again in the fall. Not to fret when they’re not blooming, the dark green waxy leaves are still a garden delight.
How to Have Gardenias In Your Life
While gardenias are popular, they can also be particular about where they grow. Yet, once they find a spot they like, they’ll grow heartily for years.
Gardenias can be grown a number of ways.
In your landscape, the gardenia works wells as a border plant, for example, along a walk or edging a patio or deck. Here you get the most advantage of smelling them when they are in bloom.
If you live in a climate where you get colder, more harsh winters, you can use the gardenia as a container plant. Let it thrive outside in the heat and humidity of summer. Then as your seasons cool down, bring it inside. If you want to grow gardenia inside, the thing to remember is they like bright light and humidity to thrive indoors.
Growing Gardenias
Gardenias like humidity and sunlight, unless it’s beating sun in the hottest part of the summer. Then they will happily tolerate some shade too. Let’s take a look at how to successfully grow gardenias, what do they like and what does the plant want you to know.
Planting
If you want to plant gardenias in your yard, it’s best to plant them in the fall or spring, versus the heat of summer. Test your soil before planting. Gardenias like:
- Acidic (pH 5.0-6.5), humus-rich soil
- Good drainage
When planting, dig the hole wide enough and deep enough so they have room. Before putting the plant in the ground, it’s wise to add mulch or some bark so they have the good drainage they like so much.
Water
Gardenias know exactly how much water they like, if you give them too much they will tell you, same for not enough ( more on this later), They like about an inch of water per week.
You don’t want the gardenia to completely dry out. Likewise, you don’t want it sitting in water. Be careful of this if you water a gardenia indoors, that its tray doesn’t have standing water.
Mulch
Mulch is a friend of the gardenia and you. It will help your gardenia plants to manage water and not get too dried out either. Remember, when planting you want to mulch the bottom of your hole before planting.
It’s also a good idea to mulch several inches deep around your plants to help them maintain moisture in the warmer climates they like so much.
Feeding
Fertilizing your gardenia is going to help them be most successful. They do love acidic soil. It’s best to fertilize in the spring, then give them another boost in summer.
Gardenias will also like if you put your coffee grounds around their base. It acts as an acidic like mulch for the plant. You can also treat them with bone meal and fish emulsion fertilizers.
Pruning
Pruning may not be necessary if you have planted your gardenia in the right location and it’s growing successfully.
When the gardenia is done blooming, you will see those sweet flowers turn brown and wilt. Don’t be afraid to prune just the tip when this happens to keep your plants looking beautiful.
Word to the wise, do not do any pruning of your gardenia any later than August. The gardenia, like some hydrangea, start their bud growth for the next year very early. If you prune them too late in the season, you risk cutting off some of next year’s flowers.
Winter Care
The gardenia doesn’t care for cold temperatures. So, as your weather starts to cool, you want to add a hardy layer of mulch all around the base of the plant. This will help to protect the plant and its roots from colder conditions.
If you have a more significant cold, you might consider using a lightweight fabric like garden burlap to wrap the plant in for protection against the elements. You want to be sure you are using breathable fabric though.
Growing New Plants
While growing gardenias you will learn they are particular about their growing conditions. So, it’s funny that they are relatively simple to propagate and grow new plants from.
You only need to cut off a branch. Remove any flowers so the plant isn’t giving its energy to the flower. Then stick it in water. It will grow roots and you have a new plant.
Indoor Care
Gardenias grow best in heat and humidity. So, when you bring them inside to grow you need to attempt to duplicate those conditions.
Place them in bright light, but not direct sun. Either put them near a humidifier or place them in a tray of rocks with some water under the rocks so they get the natural humidity. You can also use a mister to give them some humidity.
Also, remember gardenias like moisture but don’t like to be in standing water. You want to be certain their indoor pots have good drainage.
Treating Gardenia Problems
Like with any plant or pet or child for that matter, if something isn’t quite right, the gardenia is going to give you signs that there’s a problem. Let’s take a look at potential problems and what your plant could be telling you.
Buds Dropping
If your plant drops buds before they open it can be because of several causes. Most likely is that it isn’t getting enough humidity around it.
Other causes might include:
- Over or under watering (remember they like about an inch of water per week)
- Poor soil drainage
- Over-fertilizing
- Not enough light
They can also drop their buds if they are suddenly exposed to a bout of cold. They like warmth and heat and will respond to cold negatively.
Brown Leaves
Browning leaves on your gardenia can be for several reasons. They don’t like their leaves wet. So when watering, water at the base, the leaves aren’t soaked. Likewise, if they are not getting adequate drainage, they might have leaves that turn brown.
If the pH is off in the soil, it can also cause the gardenia to get brown leaves. Remember, they like nice rich acidic soil.
If the brown leaves have a powdery substance, it could be a sign of mildew or pests.
No Blooms
Two of the biggest culprits for a not blooming gardenia could be that it was improperly pruned during the previous season. If you recall, they start those buds very early for the next year.
The other culprit for a non-blooming gardenia is that the soil isn’t quite right. If you haven’t pruned and are still not getting blooms, start by doing a soil test.
The gardenia needs all the conditions to be right for it to bloom, so pay attention to light, humidity, drainage and temperature too.
Yellow Leaves
The most common way a gardenia tells its owners that something is wrong is with yellowing leaves. The leaves turn from the dark glossy green to yellow and then fall from the bush.
Some reasons for yellow leaves include:
- Soil deficiency (again do a soil test)
- Over or under watering
- Not enough bright light
- Poor drainage
If a gardenia was overwatered and it doesn’t have good drainage, it can actually get root rot which will then cause the leaves to yellow and fall from the plant.
Varieties of Gardenias
There are many varieties of gardenias. Some of the most popular include:
- Gardenia Radicans
- Gardenia Magnifica
- Gardenia Professor Pucci
- Gardenia Four Seasons
Some varieties grow better in different zones, so be sure to research them and consider your climate.
Sweet Smelling Gardenias
Under the right growing conditions, gardenias can be a lovely addition to your yard or garden. Whether they are filling your yard with their sweet scent, or showing off their shiny leaves, they can be showstoppers in any garden.
If you have questions about growing gardenias or need help deciding on the best variety for your yard, contact us today. One of our garden specialists will be happy to help you with your gardenia and garden questions.
It’s often the simplest things that can have the most significant impact. And gardening is just one such example. Scientifically proven, to improve wellbeing, gardening can help quickly boost your physical and mental health. We’ve put together a list of the top 7 health benefits of gardening.
Keep reading to learn about how gardening can improve your overall health.
1. Daily Exercise
Gardening is a great way to keep you active. Sedentary behaviour is one of the leading contributors to disease around the world, and unfortunately, we spend more time sitting than ever before. The good news is, you don’t have to train for a marathon to stay healthy.
Frequent movement has a beneficial effect on the heart and the body overall. Our bodies were designed to move! Gardening is the perfect activity for continuous and diverse movement. No matter how big or small your garden, typical gardening activities include mowing the lawn, weeding, planting, potting and pruning. All this movement means that you go from kneeling, standing to stretching. It is the combination of different patterns movement that makes it so beneficial.
2. Sunshine
Plants, like people, love sunshine. When you make gardening a regular activity, you’ll spend time outdoors in natural light. While you’ll want to avoid the hottest parts of the day and wear sun protection, spending time outdoors is good for the mind and body.
Sunshine helps keep your serotonin levels high and even regulates your melatonin levels, the chemical that helps you sleep. Its mood-boosting effect gives you a happy buzz while out in the garden or on the balcony and the better quality sleep will help your health in many ways.
Being out in the sun is also responsible for vitamin D generation. Your body needs this vitamin to keep your bones strong and healthy. If you are bit of a geek, (I am) check out this video by Richard Weller.
3. Calming Effects of Nature
Time and time again, studies from around the world have shown that being out in nature has a calming effect on the mind. The simple act of seeing plants can ease stress and reduce symptoms of anxiety and depression. When you’re gardening, you’re right up close and personal with nature.
Tending to plants and watching them grow allows you to interact with nature and provides blissful stress relief. This is great if you have indoor plants too, as they have the same effect on the brain.
4. A Sense of Productivity and Control
Everyone enjoys different levels of control in their lives but one thing is the same, we all need some control. When we feel like we’re out of control of our lives, we can feel increasingly anxious, stressed, and distressed. During difficult times such as the global pandemic we’re experiencing, it’s important to accept what we can and can’t control.
Gardening is one of the best ways to gain a sense of productivity and control right from your own home. You can plant seeds, prepare the soil and nurture new life into the world. Watching plants grow and knowing that you’re responsible for it is a fantastic feeling.
If you have a good-sized garden, preparing the ground for an allotment is a productive step. There are plenty of winter vegetables you can start growing or plan a seasonal strategy so you know exactly what to plant and when.
Gardeners with balconies or small gardens don’t have to lose hope. Many vegetables and fruits can be grown in modest pots and bring delicious produce to the table in due course. Even if you don’t want to grow food, planting bulbs and flower seeds is a good idea. Wildflowers especially draw butterflies and bees to your garden and when spring arrives, you’ll reap the rewards.
5. Healthy Bacteria
Contact with soil has been shown to have a beneficial effect on the human microbiome. In fact, our ancestors would’ve evolved alongside soil in much closer quarters than now. These days, few of us have much, if any, contact with soil and our gut microbiome’s are worse off for it.
There’s even a specific soil-borne bacteria, Mycobacterium vaccae, that seems to reduce skin allergies, boost immune function and improve the mood. We’re not saying sprinkle soil on your salad but simply having contact with soil may improve your health on multiple levels.
6. Strong Hands
Gardening can be as easy or as challenging as you make it but one thing’s for sure, you’ll be using your hands a lot. Potting up plants can be surprisingly muscle-intensive and you’ll soon start feeling your hands ache.
Digging in the gardening, weeding and pruning are all activities that have a heavy reliance on using your grip. Hand strength is something that fades as we age but it’s often due to inactivity. Gardening keeps your hands active and will give you a strong handshake for life.
7. Healthier Diet
By developing an interest in gardening, you’ll be more likely to be mindful of how we consume plants in our diets. Intensive farming produces affordable produce on a mass scale but it’s often at the detriment of flavour. If you’re trying to get more healthy foods in your diet, eating flavourless vegetables isn’t going to help your enthusiasm for it.
By growing your own vegetables, even in small quantities, you’ll rediscover what produce really tastes like. There’s nothing better than the taste of homegrown carrots or tomatoes and they can both be grown on balconies if you’re short of space.
If you only have indoor spaces, grow herbs like basil and coriander on your sunny windowsills. These herbs add a punch of flavour to many dishes and are fantastic on salads.
A healthier diet means a healthier body and mind.
Go Green and Enjoy the Benefits of Gardening
The health benefits of gardening are numerous and you might even get some fresh fruits and vegetables out of it. By spending time in nature and nurturing new life, you’ll benefit from stress relief and better sleep.
The constant light movement required when gardening will help keep your body supple and it all counts towards your exercise needs. Spending time in the sun helps give you stronger bones and all that weeding will give you stronger hands. There are no downsides to gardening and it’s one of the most productive and soothing activities for periods of isolation.
If you want to get started growing fruit, vegetables and herbs, take a look at our range of edible plants. Once you start eating homegrown veggies, you’ll fall in love with their incredible flavour.
In 2014-15 in Australia, just 7% of adults and 5% of children ate their recommended daily intake of vegetables. Fruit and vegetables are vital for our health, and vegetables are also easy to grow in your garden so there’s really no excuse not to eat the recommended amount. If you’re thinking about starting your own vegetable garden, then we’re to help. Get off-the-grid and create better sustainability for yourself and loved ones by learning how to grow a vegetable garden. Use this guide to get started!
Why Grow Vegetables?
As we’ve already seen, most people in Australia don’t eat enough vegetables. A diet high in fruit and vegetables provides a range of health benefits, including protecting you against cancer, diabetes, and heart disease. Growing your own vegetables means you’re likely to eat far more vegetables than you would have done otherwise.
Growing your own vegetables can also save you money. A packet of seeds can cost you as little as $3 and can provide you with a large crop. In these uncertain times, a single head of cauliflower has been selling for as much as $14.99; for the same price, you could buy almost five packets of seeds and grow plenty of your own cauliflowers. Even without food shortages, growing your own vegetables is a great way to save money. Not only that, but gardening in itself offers plenty of health benefits.
How to Grow a Vegetable Garden
If you’re thinking about growing a vegetable garden, it’s not too hard to get started. Read on as we take a look at some of the steps you’ll need to take.
Before You Start
Before you get cracking, you’re going to need the right equipment. Ideally, you should have:
- a spade for digging
- a fork for turning the soil
- a rake for clearing debris
- a hoe for weeding
- a trowel for weeding and transplanting
- a watering can for watering your plot
- gardening gloves to protect your hands
- a kneeling pad to protect your knees
This shouldn’t set you back too much at all. You can add further items of equipment as and when you need them.
Choose the Best Location
Once you have your equipment, you need to decide where to have your vegetable garden. You’ll want to choose somewhere that gets plenty of sun. Ideally, it should be fairly sheltered from the wind. For your own sake, it’s best to choose somewhere that’s fairly near a water source, too.
You’ll also want somewhere that has good soil. If you really want to get serious you can take some soil samples and test their pH. This could also help influence what you decide to grow.
Decide on a Plot Size
When you’ve settled on an area, you need to decide how big to make your plot. We would definitely recommend starting small to begin with. It’s much better to have a small, well-tended vegetable garden than a large one that’s too much for you to handle. You can always extend your vegetable garden when you feel more confident, or your need space for more vegetables.
Choose the Vegetables You Want to Grow
Your next decision should be what vegetables you want to grow.
You’ll need to consider how much room each type of vegetable will need as well as what kind of conditions they need to grow well. Don’t forget to factor in your personal tastes; there’s no point growing hundreds of cabbages if you don’t really like cabbage.
If you’re looking for fairly easy vegetables to grow at first, consider carrots, capsicum, cucumbers, and lettuce.
Plan Your Layout
Before you start planting, you need to consider how you’re going to lay out your vegetable garden.
You need to take into consideration how much space your vegetables will need, as well as their requirements for sunlight and how tall they will grow. Work out where you’re going to plant each of your different vegetables making sure they all have adequate room.
Remember there’s nothing that says you have to plant in straight rows; feel free to get creative with your layout.
Plant your seeds
If you’re planting seedlings, it’s best to do this on a fairly cloud day to reduce the shock of transplantation. If you can’t wait for a cloudy day, then do this early in the morning instead.
If you’re planting seeds, be sure to follow the instructions on the packet. Remember to use the spacing you worked out when you planned your layout. Firm down the soil where you’ve planted and lightly water.
Start Digging
Stake out the borders of what will be your vegetable garden. Now it’s time to dig.
Use a spade to divide the area into small sections, then use your fork to lift the sod one section at a time. Shake out any loose soil and discard the sod.
Once you’ve covered the whole area, dig down about 12 inches for each section and turn the soil over to aerate it. Remove any stones or other debris you find as you go along. When you’ve covered the entire area, rake the soil to make it level and ready for planting.
Maintenance
Once your vegetables are planted, the next phase is to take care of them as they grow. This is particularly important in the early days when seedlings are at their most fragile.
Watering
Use a watering can, or a hose with a rain shower setting. When seedlings are small, try to water the soil around the seedlings, rather than directly onto them.
Let the soil inform you when it comes to watering. If the soil sticks into a ball and stays together, then it’s moist enough. If it crumbles and won’t hold together, then it needs more water.
Try to water first thing in the morning. This will ensure that your vegetables have plenty of water throughout the day. Watering in the evening can also mean that the foliage stays wet overnight which can cause problems with disease.
Different vegetables require different amounts of water, so do your research and be sure that each type is getting the amount of water it needs. You’ll need to water less during cooler spring or autumn months.
Weeding
Weeding is something that should be done regularly if you want your vegetable garden to be a success.
You can pull up weeds either by hand or using a hoe. Be sure that you’re getting the roots as well as the leaves, or they’ll be back before you know it.
Adding a layer of mulch is also a good way to keep weeds at bay. Mulch blocks out the light from the soil, stopping weed seeds from germinating. It also covers the soil meaning that weed seeds are unable to land and take root.
Fertilising
Vegetables need plenty of nutrients to grow so that they can provide them to you in turn when you eat them. Using fertiliser can help provide your vegetables with the food they need.
Fertilisation is something you can do all year round, but how often you do it and the type of fertiliser you use will depend on what you’re growing. Spring crops such as lettuce and cabbage don’t require much fertilisation. In comparison, summer vegetables such as tomatoes require topping up with quick-release fertiliser every three or four weeks.
You don’t necessarily have to buy fertiliser; you can make excellent compost from your kitchen scraps.
Reaping the Rewards
The final stage in growing a vegetable garden is by far the most rewarding. You finally get to reap what you have sown.
It’s always best to pick your vegetables when they are young and tender, but don’t pick them until you plan to use them. Going to your vegetable garden to pick some vegetables to cook with straight away is a true joy.
For root crops, pull them up when they have reached the size you would usually eat them. Leafy crops such as lettuce should be cut two inches from the ground. In this way, you should be able to get a second harvest from the roots.
Once you’ve harvested your vegetables, clean out their beds, and you’re ready to start the process all over again.
Are You Ready to Start Growing Your Own Vegetables?
Now you know how to grow a vegetable garden, all you need is the right equipment and something to plant.
We can help you with both of those. We have a wide range of fruit trees and edibles available for you to plant, including carrots, capsicum, spring onions, and zucchini. We also have a large selection of seeds including cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, radish and eggplant.
We also stock garden essentials including watering cans and fertiliser. If you’re not sure what you need, get in touch and one of our staff will be able to help.
Contact us today and take your first step into the joys of growing your own vegetables!
Take a look around your home. Do you have enough real greenery? If not, one of the best ways to bring your home to life is to add some indoor plants. Not only will they make your home look better and feel more welcoming and cosy, but they will also help improve your health.
We’ve put together a list of our top 6 health benefits of indoor plants.
1. Indoor Plants Boost Your Immune System
Having indoor plants will help your immune system fight any viruses. They create an environment where you can relax and rest properly (we’ll get into in a little more bit later), and a rested mind and body generally means a stronger immune system.
This happens because plants have certain chemicals that help reduce your stress levels and this works as a natural boost to your immune system. Plus, when you’re around plants, you end up getting a lot of great chemicals that will aid you in fighting many illnesses. All of this explains why people who have indoor plants in their homes can more efficiently combat any bugs. They tend to have fewer headaches, coughs, skin issues, and even nausea.
In short, plants are powerful healers even if you just use them as decor.
Best indoor plants for your immune system: Aloe vera plants, chrysanthemums, and the classic mother-inlaws tongue.
2. They Increase Your Productivity
Does your office have any plants? If not, it’s time to change that!
Once again, since plants can so effectively reduce your stress levels (as well as reduce fatigue), they help you focus on your tasks and get them done timely and creatively.
In fact, in a study conducted in an office in the UK, employee productivity increased by 15% after indoor plants were introduced in the workplace.
Plus, indoor plants bring some colour and excitement to your workplace decor and who likes to work in a boring office anyway?
If you work from home, consider buying a couple of vases to add to the room. If you work in an office, tell your boss about this study. We’re sure they’ll be convinced!
Best indoor plants for productivity: Peace lily, philodendron, and lemon balm.
3. They Improve Air Quality
This is probably the most widely-known benefit of owning indoor plants.
The plants you have in your home or office remove toxins and pollutants from the air you breathe (and even convert them into energy), working as natural air purifiers. Given the fact that Australians spend 90% or more of their time indoors, it’s easy to understand why this benefit is so important.
Poor indoor air quality can result in headaches, allergies, fatigue, nausea, and more. If you can avoid these issues by using some gorgeous plants, why not?
Best indoor plants for air quality: English ivy, spider plant, and Chinese evergreen
4. They Help Improve Your Mental Health
If you visit a hospital or a rehab centre, you’ll often notice that there are indoor plants in some rooms and there’s a reason for that: plants can make you feel happier.
For one, because the green pop of colour and the pleasant scent of plants bring a bit of the outside to a room, which helps it feel more welcoming, calm, and open. No one likes feeling like they’re trapped inside a box.
Also, and if we want to get a bit more scientific, indoor plants release more oxygen into their air you breathe and, with more oxygen, your organism gets a natural boost and is able to work more effectively. As a result, your brain won’t feel as tired and you won’t feel as dull.
If all of that wasn’t enough, taking care of a plant will bring you a sense of accomplishment that can also make you feel a lot better.
Best indoor plants for mental health: Lavender, jasmine, and aloe vera plants
5. They Can Help With Allergies
Do you struggle with hay fever, allergies or asthma? If so, there are probably certain factors that worsen your symptoms, like air pollution, pollen, dust or mould.
The good news is, indoor plants can help you with all three of those harmful factors. Regarding air pollution, you can probably gather how it works: since plants are natural air purifiers, they will efficiently clean the air you breathe inside your home and get rid of air pollutants.
As for the pollen, indoor greenery works as a filter and catches this type of allergens for you. Needless to say, if you have a pollen allergy avoid daisies and sunflowers at all costs.
Finally, it’s been proven by NASA that rooms with certain types of indoor greenery tend to have less dust and mould.
Best indoor plants for allergies: Peace lily, bamboo plant, and Janet Craig
6. They Can Help You Sleep Better
Having trouble falling or staying asleep can have a huge impact on your wellbeing, so it’s important to look for efficient solutions promptly.
One thing that can help you get those crucial eight hours of sleep every night is having the right indoor plants in your bedroom. Firstly, because as you know now, plants help reduce stress levels, which is helpful if you have trouble sleeping because your brain simply can’t stop.
Furthermore, certain plants can be therapeutic due to their scent. If you haven’t tried aromatherapy for your sleeping issues, we say you give it a go.
Best indoor plants for sleep problems: Lavender, jasmine, and gardenia
Start Enjoying the Benefits of Indoor Plants Today
Now that you know about all of these benefits of indoor plants, you’re probably looking around and wondering if you should get some. The answer is yes! You’ll feel happier and healthier, and who doesn’t want that?
Take a look at the indoor plants we have available and choose your favourite ones – and if you have any questions, feel free to get in touch with us! Also if you’ve liked this blog check out our other blog on the & benefits of gardening.
Hibiscus are well known for their enormous, dramatic and flamboyant flowers.
They are available in an endless variety of colours, from shades of yellow, orange, red, pink, white and everything in between! There are many different species of Hibiscus, ranging from miniature shrubs to large trees, but, all of them have similar requirements when it comes to growing happy healthy plants
Sunlight and Placement
When planting it’s important to consider that over the first two years most of them will grow to 1.5 – 2M high. All Hibiscus prefer full sunshine, however they also need to be protected from strong winds. When planted in an area too shady they will become leggy and will not flower well.
Hibiscus can also grow well in pots or tubs. Ceramic or terracotta pots work best as plastic, when sitting in the sun for extended periods, can overheat the root system.
Prunning
It’s easy to be afraid of pruning, however, it is essential if you want healthy looking bushes and lots of flowers! Almost all varieties of Hibiscus will only bloom on new wood. When pruning your Hibiscus, first prune any diseased or dead branches from the centre, as well as any crossed over branches. This will allow increased sunlight & airflow to new shoots starting to grow. Next, reduce the overall size of the outer branches at least one-third of the season’s growth. Don’t be alarmed by the bare appearance of your plant after pruning it will bounce back with a vengeance!
Watering/Feed
The secret to success when growing Hibiscus is to keep the soil evenly moist. When blooming they will require large amounts of water. Water your them generously at least once a week. In hot weather water daily, in the colder months water to maintain soil moisture. Potted ones should be watered every 2-3 days, if not everyday.
They respond well to fertilizer, choose one that encourages blooms and is high in nitrogen and potassium. Apply before and throughout the growing season this will help intensify bloom colour and promote healthy growth.
Soil and Drainage
They grow best in well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH6-6.5). Heavy clay or light sand must be improved with compost and animal manures, even quality soil will require additional organic matter. Mulch the surrounding area with organic mulch, straw, hay or sugarcane ensuring nothing touches the stem. This will help keep the roots cool & moist during summer.
Other great resources
Do you look at your garden and wish that there were more pops of color for a visual appeal? Do you want to be able to sit in your garden and see all types of butterflies flying around you safe and happy?
Perhaps it’s a combination of wanting to upgrade your current garden and also wanting to help the environment in some small but significant way. Whatever your reasons for redoing your garden or maybe planting your first garden; you should definitely consider the installation of a butterfly garden!
What is a butterfly garden you might be asking yourself?
It’s exactly how it sounds – a garden that is designed with the purpose of attracting butterflies and moths to your garden where they can be safe, fed and even lay their eyes to start the next generation. By having a butterfly garden in your backyard, you are providing a safe haven for an important member of the food chain and ecosystem. Butterflies are pollinators in the environment, providing a valuable service to encourage the strong and healthy growth of plants and greenery. This strong and healthy growth in turn helps trees in their task of changing carbon dioxide to oxygen which then repairs the ozone layer.
Certain butterfly species are also at risk of extinction due to the mass destruction of their habitat through human means such as logging. Logging and deforestation lead to butterflies moving along different migration patterns and encountering disease, a lack of edible plants and even busy freeways full of traffic.
Now that your interest is piqued – it is time to break down how to plant a butterfly garden in your backyard!
How to Plant a Butterfly Garden – Steps and Tips
- Determine your location: one of the most important and absolute first steps required in the planting of your butterfly garden is determining the location. You need and want the perfect location to encourage butterflies and moths to come and hang out so it should be in an area that receives ample sunlight during the day. Butterflies soak up sunlight to convert for energy that is then used during the foraging and flying parts of their day. Make sure your area, while well-lit, is also out of the way of harsh and changing wind speeds.
- Plant the right flowers: there are certain plants that will attract more butterflies than others and you want to make sure there is a healthy abundance of these to provide nutrients and food. You want to have plants such as milkweed, Canadian goldenrod, wild bergamot, and black-eyed Susan. The best thing to do would be to research the butterflies and moths native to your area to find out the best plants for them! Most butterflies love nectar-producing plants, so make sure to have some varieties of these as well in your butterfly garden.
- Give them a seat: provide flat rocks that have natural curves and grooves in them for the butterflies to take a breather and relax. These rocks will absorb the heat from the sun when placed around the flowers; allowing the butterflies to stop, rest and refuel while regulating their body temperature. They will bask on these rocks, providing the perfect setup for pictures and a chance to watch their interactions with each other.
- Drink up: you want to provide your butterflies and moths with drinking water that should be changed on a daily or every second day basis. A birdbath works the best (and will also attract other animals to hang out in your garden such as blue jays) but if you don’t have one or have the room for one – an old plate or pan will also work fine. The thing to remember is that butterflies cannot drink from open water, so a bit of sand in the bottom of the container is required to create a “puddle” of sorts. They will draw the water up and out of the sand to drink using their complex internal systems
Conclusion
Your butterfly garden doesn’t have to be a gigantic piece of land in your backyard but instead it can be whatever you feel comfortable managing. Remember to water your garden daily and take the time to cultivate it through compost, fertilizer, mulch and weeding. Just because your butterfly garden isn’t growing plants for pleasure or produce; it still needs your green thumb to flourish!
Make sure you have the right equipment on hand to maintain your butterfly garden such as a sturdy wheelbarrow for dragging supplies, soil, mulch and compost back and forth. You also want to invest in a steel topped shovel to make sifting through the soil a breeze but ensure that you have a pair of sturdy gardening gloves to protect the delicate skin of the hands from blisters and infection. Head over the Backyardboss.net to find out the best gardening gloves on the market!
Take your time during the process of planting your butterfly garden and once it is completed; take your favorite drink to the bench outside and be prepared to be awed by Mother Nature all over again!
Choosing the right pot is key to ensuring your plant is well looked after and can thrive. Read on to learn about which factors you should take into account when picking your next pot.
Pick the right type of pot
Select the material that best suits the plant and growing conditions. Terracotta pots tend to dry out quickly, which makes it an ideal pot for indoor drought-loving plants. Glazed terracotta doesn’t dry out as fast. Plastic is lightweight and durable and works well both inside and out. Wood offers a natural look that blends well into garden settings. Wooden containers work best outdoors as the wood breaks down over time. Glazed ceramic pots are durable, versatile and perfect for indoor plants. Concrete pots have the best durability, so are best used outdoors, but they can be quite heavy.
Does size matter?
Yes! If a plant is too small for the pot, it will tend to tip over. As well, the soil will dry more slowly, making your plant susceptible to root rot. If your plant is too big, the soil will dry out, and you’ll need to water it more frequently. Your plant could also become root-bound and have stunted growth.
Do I need to repot?
Often newly-purchased plants have already outgrown their plastic pots. Without proper repotting, the plant will not grow to its potential. Repotting doesn’t necessarily mean a larger pot. It could just mean changing out the soil. Eventually, you will need a larger pot.
What to do if you don’t have a saucer?
If you have a pot without a saucer, you could use a mismatched saucer, and add pretty rocks or marbles to bring the two styles together. Another idea is to turn your pot into a cachepot. Place the pot inside a larger pot that doesn’t have a hole.
What to do if your pot doesn’t have a hole?
Pretty much all plants require drainage, therefore having a hole at the bottom of the pot is essential. There are however many pots available that do not have a hole, known as ‘Cachepots’. These are designed to have nursery pots placed inside them. When it comes to watering, you remove the nursery pot from inside the Cachepot, water the plant, wait for it to drain and then place it back!
- https://www.sunset.com/garden/houseplants-does-your-planter-need-a-saucer
- https://www.bioadvanced.com/articles/choosing-right-pot-plants
- https://www.miraclegro.com/en-us/library/container-gardening/how-pick-right-pot-your-plant
- https://www.thesill.com/blogs/the-basics/how-to-choose-right-pot-houseplants
- https://gardeningmentor.com/container-gardening/
Azaleas, part of the rhododendron family, are one of the most popular of all garden flowers.
They come in a wide variety of different colours and sizes. They bloom in both winter and spring and look fantastic planted en masse in a garden bed.
Sunlight and Placement
Azaleas are surface rooting plants. This means that they don’t need deep soil to thrive so 30 -40cm is enough. They like semi-shade. Ideally, place them in the dappled shade underneath a tree. While they will grow in most positions, they prefer morning sun, with protection from the hot afternoon sun. Azaleas will not last in cement pots or near brickwork. This is due to the lime leaching into the soil and making it alkaline. Make sure to use a glazed pot if space in your garden is limited.
Pruning
To properly care for your Azaleas you should prune after flowering to help keep them under control and looking great. Otherwise they may start to grow long stems and develop damaged branches.
Watering
As Azaleas are shallow-rooted, they need to be watered every 2-3 days to avoid drying out. Make sure to water at the roots, and not the petals. Wetting these can cause the plant to develop a fungal disease resulting in the loss of the blooms!
Soil and Drainage
Although most plants are happiest in a neutral pH zone (6-7), Azaleas like mildly acidic soil (5.5). So, before planting, feed soil with compost and aged manure to improve moisture and retention. Then once planted, it is essential to use lots of compost to help absorb excess water from the roots and keep the plants moist but not saturated. As the weather gets warmer, it is important to use mulch on the surface and around the plants.
Other great resources
These lacy, delicate ferns with their small fronds are beautiful but can be very picky when it comes to their growing conditions.
There is no messing around when it comes to meeting the needs of the Maidenhair Fern. A well-loved Fern will reward you with stunning foliage. Maidenhair ferns can make an elegant, charming addition to shady garden areas or excellent decorations to your stylish home or apartment. They are great for wooded moist garden areas and make an excellent ground cover or container plant.
Sunlight and Placement
From temperature to sunlight, they are picky! Direct sunlight will lead to scorching, but too little light will cause poor growth and leaf discolouration. If you can strike a balance, finding a location that gets indirect morning or afternoon sunlight, with no drafts.
They can’t tolerate dry air, so if you are planning to keep yours indoors, the bathroom is a great option! Placing the plant near a shower, or standing it in a water-filled pebble tray can increase air humidity around the plant will provide the moisture it needs. Regular misting also helps!
Watering
They need to be kept moist, but you must also be careful not to overwater or underwater them! Too much water leads to root rot, and not enough water can lead to the plant drying out. If they dry out – Don’t give up! A good soaking and the Fern should recover and eventually produce new leaves.
Soil and Drainage
Maidenhair Ferns prefer alkaline soil, adding some ground limestone into the potting mix or mixing it into outdoor beds will achieve this. The plant typically grows in partial to full shade and prefers moist, well-draining soil with added organic matter. They will not tolerate dry soil. Maidenhair ferns prefer small containers and dislike repotting, so choose your pot wisely!
Other great resources
Magnolias have one of the most beautiful blooms you’ll ever set eyes on, creating a spectacle of sophistication and elegance on bare branches.
When flowering, every bloom is visible and framed perfectly against the muted tones of late winter and early spring. These lemon-scented beauties are exceptional, and a must-have in your garden.
Sunlight and Placement
Magnolias prefer full sun if possible. However, they will grow in partial shade. They enjoy the shelter of other large shrubs and small trees. Strong winds can break branches and damage flowers to try to plant them in protected areas. Magnolias sometimes sulk for the first few years of their lives. You can avoid this by giving them the best possible start! Add good compost, manure and soil to a hole double the size of the existing pot, water in well. Then add a saucer-like the depression of earth around the base to funnel water to the roots, before a thick layer of mulch.
Pruning
In general, pruning isn’t necessary for Magnolias. You can, however, remove any dead or damaged branches, and prune others to encourage a desirable shape. The best time to prune is straight after flowering. You need to make sure that you do not prune branches lower than the raised ridge. It is found at the base of larger branches, pruning at this point will prevent future growth and flowering.
Watering
Young Magnolias need plenty of water, but once they’ve established deeper roots, they can tolerate short dry spells. When watering, slowly soak the soil so that the water sinks deep into the ground. During the warmer months, we recommend you water them fortnightly or more frequently. Be sure to be careful during summer, if left dry Magnolias can die, proper watering and mulch can reduce this risk.
Soil and Drainage
Magnolias grow naturally in soils that are deep and rich organic matter. Average garden soil will usually suffice as long as it drains well, holding moisture but not wetness. Slightly acidic soil is ideal. Magnolias will also tolerate alkaline soils that have plenty of broken-down compost (humus).
When in pots they should be placed on a surface where they can drain freely, like bricks or paving.
Other great resources
Helleborus, also known as Winter Roses, are hardy plants that bring beautiful colour to a winter garden.
They look fantastic when planted in large numbers, and are adored by many for their ease of are, evergreen foliage and long winter blooming. These flowers also have no serious pest problems! Helleborus doesn’t need to stay in the garden, they make excellent cut flowers which last quite well, their drooping heads look great on a high shelf or trim the stems and float them in water.
Sunlight and Placement
Helleborus are tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions. However, they perform best in partial shade and need no more than a few hours of dappled light to germinate. Many gardeners like to plant them on a hillside or in raised flower beds to enhance their view of the beautiful downward facing blooms. Helleborus are great under trees which have low spreading branches, offering shade. They will do well on the east side of your home, where they will receive the morning sun and afternoon shade.
Watering
When planting, make sure to water the seedlings in. Continue to provide plenty of water during spring and autumn when the Helleborus are actively growing – You can ease off a bit during the summer as the heat causes the plant to become dormant. Make sure to cut off any damaged or burnt leaves in autumn so that new leaves can flourish.
Soil and Drainage
Helleborus thrive in rich, moderately fertile soils, try to avoid sandy soil. Try to ensure that you plant in a well-drained area, keep away from moist, clay soil. When planting, dig a hole twice the size of the existing pot and position your plant so that the plants stem starts at ground level. An annual addition of manure or compost will help boost growth.
WARNING – All parts of the Helleborus plant are poisonous, so make sure you keep children and pets away!
Bare root trees are ready grown plants which have been uprooted from the field where they were grown, no soil remains on roots – hence the name, ‘bare rooted’.
Bare rooting can only be done with deciduous trees & shrubs while they are dormant. They are often cheaper as you are not paying for the pot, potting mix & transport of large bulky potted plants. They are often more advanced in their growth, and come in a wider variety of species too!
Quick Tips
- When planting, dig a hole about wider and 10-20cm cm wider for a 30cm pot. Mound some soil in the middle and spread the roots over the mound evenly.
- Don’t plant the tree too deep. Do not dig into clay, rather build up the site with topsoil. See our planting guide.
- Depending on the tree, you will need to prune significantly so that the tree can establish itself more quickly.
Storage
If you cannot plant your tree straight away, it is vital to keep the roots moist. You can store your tree in a bag with damp saw-dust for up to a week. You can also place your tree into a pot temporarily, or bury it in a shallow hole, just ensure the roots are kept moist. If you are storing your plant for 1 day, you may keep it in a bucket of water.
Preparation
You want the best possible soil ready to go for your bare-rooted tree. Once you get your bare rooted plant home, it is essential to act quickly, even though it is dormant there is still a risk of root damage. To prepare your soil, add some organic material & manure and mix it together with soil and water.
Planting
When planting your bare-rooted tree, dig a hole that is wider than it is deep, depending on the soil we generally recommend 10-20cm wider than the pot. If you have poor soil you may need to go as large as 1 meter wide. Place the roots on top of a mound soil in the middle of the hole. It should be high enough that the base of the tree sits at ground level.
Spread the roots over the mound evenly. Fill in the hole gently, wiggle the tree slightly as you go to help the roots make good contact with the soil. To finish, water in well. If the tree is in an exposed area, you may need to stake the tree as well.
Pruning
Pruning is an essential step to the success of your bare-rooted tree. When a tree is removed from the field, it loses a significant portion of its root system. If you don’t prune it back, the tree will have an unbalanced root to tree ratio, which will cause problems. Depending on the tree, you will need to prune significantly so that the tree can establish itself more quickly.
Roses are the flower of romance; they have a beautiful fragrance and stunning blooms!
Quick Tips
- When they are young, roses require a lot of water. We recommend a whole watering can of water, twice a week. This will help roots grow very deep into the soil, leading to better roses.
- They do best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun a day) and well-drained soil that’s rich in organic matter.
- Use mulch. It helps the soil stay fresh and moist longer during hot, dry weather, so you have to water less often.
Sunlight and Placement
Roses will love at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. They do not like windy spots so find a shielded place from the conditions. They are robust, and they will thrive in open sunny gardens. It is best not to place them in full shade as they will struggle to reach their potential and become infected with fungus.
If you are planting a new rose, we suggest digging a large hole, deep enough that the graft sits at least 5cm above the ground — shovel in a mound of some premium garden mix at the base of the hole. Then, spread the roots over it and then fill in the rest. Don’t forget to water them, you want at least 2 buckets of water.
Watering
At first, try to keep your rose moist for the first summer. Installing a dripper system is a great way to achieve this; the goal is to get the water to seep down 20cm to help promote root growth. It’s best to avoid regular light watering will keep the roots near the surface.
Once Rose’s root system is established each plant will require 10L of water 2-3 times a week depending on the weather. In normal conditions twice a week spaced evenly. In extreme heat 3 times a week.
Soil and Drainage
They prefer slightly acidic soil but can adapt to most soils except sand. Roses love soils rich in organic matter with compost, cow manure is also excellent. Clay soils are also great for roses. Clay retains moisture and nutrients- for heavy clay soils, you will need to break it up.
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The Dichondra Silver Falls is a delicate cascading accent plant. It works beautifully as a ground cover or in a hanging basket.
It’s the type of plant that will create a soft feel, they also complement bold and colourful plants. Dichondra Silver Falls have lovely, small rounded leaves, resembling miniature water lily.
Quick Tips
- They are Drought hardy, tolerating coastal, frost and dry conditions.
- They grow best in full sun. In partial shade, they tend to stay greener and have a looser habit.
- Allow the soil to dry between watering, this will prevent the roots from rotting, and your plants will love you for it!
Sunlight and Placement
As an outdoor plant, it is an excellent ground cover or trailing plant. It loves partial to full sun positions. If you have a water feature or pond, they will add a soft, luxurious look. They also thrive in hanging baskets, as they begin to mature they take on a delicate waterfall appearance.
They are a great indoor plant, and with a little care, they will thrive! For that reason, a ceiling hanging basket or a tall table are great options. Choose a spot that gets some direct sunlight throughout the day.
The real beauty of the Dichondra Silver Falls is its trailing silvery foliage, so find a place that will let it shine.
Watering
They prefer warm, dry growing conditions and can tolerate heat and mild drought when established. They will require weekly watering but let the soil dry out. In hot weather, a little more water helps.
Soil and Drainage
The Dichondra Silver Falls don’t like wet soils. Drainage is essential for them to thrive. Choose a potting mix with excellent drainage properties or a gritty compost mixed with coarse soil.
If you keep them Indoors – make sure you use a house plant rich, but light soil with good drainage. A saucer and pot combination is ideal. However, you can get away with a saucer-free pot by adding about 3 cm of pebbles to the bottom of the pot.
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Create a tropical island vibe right in your backyard with the blossoms and fragrances of the beautiful Frangipani tree.
Quick Tips
- They thrive with little maintenance, and we recommend that you limit watering to once a week as too much water will result in fewer flowers.
- Frangipanis flower in December and January and they add a tropical feel to a garden. They can grow as tall as 6 meters and as wide as 5 meters.
- They grow well in pots, and we recommend the use of a quality potting mix in a full, shallow pot.
Sunlight and Placement
They are a tropical plant; they prefer full sun, well-drained soil and a frost free climate. Protecting them from high winds is essential they are comfortable in coastal climates.
Frangipani can quickly adapt to growing in containers. They are easy to maintain, and they respond well to pruning. During colder times of the year, potting allows you to move your Frangipani indoors or under a veranda and make the most of sunlight throughout the year.
Watering
Frangipanis prefer dry soil and overwatering is the most common way to kill them. We recommend you limit watering during the winter months when your it is dormant. Begin watering when you see the first signs of growth for the season.
If you plant them in the garden, they will only need an inch of water per week, and for potted ones, they will need more regular watering.
Soil and Drainage
Frangipanis are not fussy and suit a lot of different soils, as long as they are well drained. In heavier soils plant in raised beds with free draining mix or pots. Heads up, they do not like clay soil.
While they are growing, feed them with a small amount of organic fertiliser during Spring and Summer. Mulching around the tree will keep roots cool in summer and warm in winter, as well as assist with retaining water. Keep mulch away from the trunk to avoid trunk rot.
When in pots they should be placed on a surface where they can drain freely, like bricks or paving.
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Blue Chalk Sticks have beautiful blue finger-like leaves.
A drought-tolerant South African native they are an attractive ground cover feature or accent in planter boxes.
Quick Tips
- Blue chalk sticks will thrive best in full, direct sunlight for 6 to 8 hours each day. You can also grow them outdoors in partial shade.
- Limit watering and allow periods of dryness between waterings.
- They don’t need much fertiliser. Fertilise with low-nitrogen plant food, diluted or use a succulent plant food for container plants.
Sunlight and Placement
They thrive best full, direct sunlight for 6 to 8 hours each day, but you can also grow it outdoors in partial shade. Partial shade helps encourage the spread of this attractive, matting groundcover. Overhead protection from trees, if you can find this and still have a dappled sun area, is an excellent place to plant or locate containers outside.
If you are considering them as an indoor feature find a sunny spot next to the brightest window you have. If they don’t get enough sunlight, they will stretch and wilt.
Watering
Once established Blue Chalk Sticks are drought tolerant. They rarely need water during the growing season. If you have a new one, we recommend watering up to once a week during the first spring and summer.
Soak your plant deeply every and then let the soil dry out completely between sessions. When the plant matures, you can space out watering sessions to every three or four weeks. As a general rule let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Soil and Drainage
Whether you place them in the ground or in a pot, like with all succulents, plant them in a fast-draining, gritty mix. Sandy soils are fine, but clay soils can are not suitable.
The best soil will hold enough water for Blue Chalk Sticks to absorb but will still dry out quickly enough so the roots won’t rot. Succulents tend to absorb water from the air around them. If they continuously sit in wet soil the roots, it will cause the plant to die.
When it comes to feeding, we recommend fertilising with low-nitrogen plant food.
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If you are after a flowering plant that loves the shade, Clivias are one of your best options.
Depending on the variety when they flower, they expose rich reds, deep orange tones and even cream and yellow. These guys are hardy, and with a little care they brighten up shady parts of your garden.
Quick Tips
- Outdoor Clivias thrive in the shade, whereas Indoor clivias prefer bright, indirect light.
- They love mulch drainage, and we recommend watering in the spring and summer
- Keep soil drier in autumn and winter and fertilise with potash in the spring.
Sunlight and Placement
Outdoor Clivias love the shade and will do well in most shady parts of the garden. Indoor ones prefer bright indirect sunlight. During the winter frost isn’t their friend so keep that in mind if you live in an area prone to colder nights.
Watering
While they don’t mind some neglect, care is still essential. Keep soil moist, however, let it dry out a little between deep waterings. In the winter, slow watering right down they need just enough to keep foliage hydrated. In early spring you can pick up the pace again, and you can also start to add fertiliser. We recommend using Charlie Carp at least once every 6 to 8 weeks throughout Spring and Summer.
Soil and Drainage
Like with most other perennials Clivias love well-drained fertile soil, this is generally loamy soil with added compost. Add around 3 to 5 cm of mulch around the base of the plant to help maintain moisture. You can propagate Clivias by dividing or growing them from seeds after flowering. If you choose to divide them, flowering takes about two years while seed-grown plants take four to six.
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